Pipe is sized by the I.D, tubing by the O.D. Hence 1" pipe is nominally 1" inside, tubing 1" outside. Next is removing burrs. Your cutter has a folding blade on the back, it's for deburring. Another method is to use the tang end of a file. Either works better than a small round file. You can cut straight with a hacksaw. Use either a medium or fine tooth blade, depends on wall thickness. Proper tension on blade. You can also make a cutting guide quite easily.
John Rowe Yes. It works great on the long piece but more difficult on the short cut piece. The end still needs to squared. Thanks for comment. All the Best.
Tom Stratton Thanks for watching Tom. Sounds like a lot of work. I greatly enjoy watching your video, also. I will be using your photo tips soon. Cheers
A late FYI, however I believe people aren't aware that each standard copper pipe comes in three standard wall thicknesses: K = Heavy wall, M = Medium wall, & L = Thin wall The thick K type is more of a specialty pipe but is usually only used in underground/external water lines, A/C refrigerant lines, and/or fuel feed lines on oil boilers. Home Depot carries thin walled (L Type) and the Medium (M Type) copper walled pipe. Remember if your at home depot; type L copper pipe has a thicker wall than M. The type M is thinner and is generally used for plumbing light domestic water lines. It's type be marked right on the copper pipe if your unsure what you have just take a look or measure the wall thickness. NOTE: DWV type Copper pipe is an old "4th" type you may find as old scrap. It is called Drain Waste Vent pipe and was used in the drain and vent systems of older houses. It's not really used at all today and would be the absolute thinnest walled pipe you'd come across as used scrap. It's rated at only 15psi of pressure.
Hi Cip Great video ! I made one of these ferrules a little while back after watching one of your videos on making a handle , I noticed you had a copper ferrule and I pinched the idea for a knife handle I was going to make, the tube cutter I used was a mini cutter and it leaves a nice rounded edge Thanks for sharing. All the best Bram.
Hello Gary! Thank you for your comment. Yes, the built-in tool works well for removing the burs. My tool seems to crush or deform the tubing. Not a big problem, I want to avoid it. Thanks.
Great video - should be very helpful to other turners. I've made ferrules from both tubing and couplers. I've never been successful in cutting couplers and getting a clean result - the edge is ragged, and there is the problem of how to hold a small coupler when cutting it with a hacksaw. The obvious answer is to use a bench vise, but my experience is that is likely to bung up the 'other half' of the coupler to the point where it can't be used - and that screws up the economics. Before switching to tubing, the approach I used to cut couplers was to mount the coupler in a scroll chuck with pin jaws in expansion mode, and then using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel while spinning the coupler on the lathe. That generally results in two usable halves, but it takes time and eye protection is an absolute must - the Dremel throws copper chips everywhere. Using a tubing cutter leaves a square end but that end is deformed. Actually, each time you cut the tubing, there are two deformed edges - one on the ferrule, and one on the remaining length of tubing. Holding a short length of tubing while reaming out the end is fiddly. Its much easier to take the time to clean up the edge on the remaining length of tubing. By the way, plumbers have pipe reamers that make the task of cleaning that deformed edge fairly simple, and some pipe cutters have built-in reamers (at least my Craftsman cutter does). And a final point - the problem with the deformation is that you can't easily slide the deformed end over the tenon on the end of the tool handle. I don't worry about completing removing that deformed from the freshly cut ferrule. If I have one clean square end, I mount that end toward the tool handle, which leaves the deformed end facing the tool. The deformation then becomes a slight roundover at the working end of the tool - where it isn't a problem.
Louie Powell Hey there Louie! That pretty much sums up why I usually use couplers. I can mark and cut them fairly straight and bury the cut edge into handle. Thanks for your input. Cheers
Sport66Fury The reamer works great on the long piece but more difficult on the short cut piece. The end still needs to squared. Thanks for comment. All the Best.
This was a great video. I have a question. could you use the copper tubing to make a end cap for a walking stick or staff? I have heard of people using copper pipe caps but they are usually pretty short. I would like an end cap that three or four inches long. do have suggestions?
+Close Quarters Combat Academy Thanks for watching my video. I think you would need a copper cap soldered onto a 3 inch piece of copper tubing. The appearance may be the determining factor. Thank you for your comment. Kind regards.
Cip Have you ever cut a bagel using a bagel cutting block? To have square ends using a hacksaw with copper pipe or couplings. Drill a hole through a block of wood the diameter of the copper. Use a saw to cut a slot for your hacksaw. All of your cuts should be square now. This idea works for cutting threaded rods, and wood dowels also. Thank You
+Kevin Coop Howdy Kevin! The real problem is the plumber's tubing cutter crushes the tubing and leaves the burr. Ideally I would like the end to be as nice as those on a factory made coupling. It was mostly a topic for discussion. Thanks again. Cheers
Agree with the Dremel, Just a quick zip with a sanding drum and your done. I tried the hacksaw approach and just could not get a real straight cut...operator error? Anyhow, thanks for the videos, I ALWAYS learn something new.
Interesting idea - More reasonable than fittings. Did you use schedule K, L, or M as they have different wall thicknesses: at 3/4" nominal: K-0.065 L-0.045 M-0.032 Alan
Cip's Wood Chips Then, if wanted, you could double the wall thickness to be more like a coupling if you could purchase schedule K reasonably. Then again, what you have is probably good enough, Alan
The Little Garden Shed Workshop Greetings Harry! Always good to hear from you. Also, enjoy seeing you on camera. Thanks for watching. I need to work on getting rid of those burs. Cheers
One more thing Cip, if you will take scrap piece of pipe and insert in coupling will make it much safer and easier to cut. An easy way to clean up end is to use a unibit or step drill bit,
Summers Woodworking Thanks Brian. Sometimes when I am working with my hands I don't think electric. I need to get setup and make a bunch at the same time. All the Best!
Howdy Taab7! I never worked with a tapered ferrule. I think this would be too difficult for me. I think I would purchase the ferrule and turn the walking stick to fit the ferrule, cheers.
Howdy Nijah! Very interesting. If I were trying this, I would start with a blank that was of the dimensions of the widest part of the brush. Ruff cutting the profile would make it easier to turn on the lathe. Thanks for the suggestion, cheers.
Greetings Phoenix! Yes, the deburring tool is helpful. The cutting tool crushes the tubing slightly leaving one end slightly smaller which makes for a interesting discussion. All the Best!
If you search "Brace Pipe Reamer" on the "Google," you'll find a great tool for clearing out the burs on the inside of your cuts. If you can even pick up a dull one, it would work fine on copper, even just by hand without a brace. Should cut out quite a bit of tedious work for you.
Al Furtado Hello Al! How is everything in Florida? I am in TX and it has been wet, cooler than usual and high humidity due to all the rain. Thanks for watching. Jealous of all that exotic wood you spin. Take care.
What part of Texas are you n Cip. I hope not in the flood areas I have been seeing. I know it has been devastating. Florida is great but as hot as ever LOL and as far as the wood. well I came across one person that had cut down a Eucalyptus even though I didn't know how nice it was. I have a few more pieces of it fro a few more projects than I am back on the old oak logs LOL
Interesting idea for making a ferrule. Have you checked on buying your copper at your local scrap metal buyer? I buy my copper there at the price copper is selling for per pound. I think you will be cutting your costs dramaticalally next time! Check your scrap yards often, as they are constantly buying and selling their "scrap". Their scrap may just be some brand new copper that wasn't needed for a plumbing job. Happy hunting....
+Herb Mindt That is a good idea. I do shop the metal scrap yards for iron and aluminum. I made many tool rests and grinder gigs from scrap. Most of the wood I use is from storm damage and discarded furniture. Thanks Herb.
a tapered boring bit will clean your ends rt quick and since is a hand use of a power bit lasts forever when used on copper better to put a handle on it tho
brevity, man. 2/3rds of your video is you talking about pipes. I didn't click to spend 4 minutes learning about how much copper costs. this is supposed to be about making ferrules?
