Vans RV 7 build. Painting with Epoxy primer, Urethane Base-Clear coat over that. I go over prep and step by step paint process for my experimental airplane.
Humble means a lot. The bluebeard is the way I would look. After wire wheeling parts my X-wife would pick wire out of my face. keep making videos and keep your demeanor. It will go a long way on your youtube journey....
Nice work, and very helpful to me. Just starting to paint my 9A in my barn. I decided to use single stage and did some practicing on a car hood hung vertically. I'll have way more than 25 hours invested, but I'm enjoying the process.
i am planning on doing the same. I have a 15 years old car hood that desperately need a new paint job and am planning on using this as practice to gain some experiences before aircraft painting.
The wings stands are very low tech. I simply made a rectangular “block” that bolted to the main spar and a 3” sewer pvc pipe that shoved down the lightning holes at the tips. Set up 2 saw horses and you can roll them in any direction.
Good video, thanks for sharing with the rest of us. I wanted to ask if you used a HVLP sprayer? I too will be painting in my garage and I’ve watched a lot of folks use them with their other vehicles in the garage and supposedly the paint atomizes before it hits other surfaces that you do not want paint on. Thanks again, Matt
Yes to the HVLP. No matter what you paint with- you are gonna get overspray everywhere! Best bet is good airflow and think about that while you paint. I start up wind and work downwind so to speak so the overspray from 1 part doesn't ruin the nice wet finish on another.
@@toolman311 Ok Sir, thanks for the tips and the prompt response. Your paint scheme looks great and you did a very good job. One thing I do not know nor have I researched is where does one buy airplane paint? Aircraft Spruce perhaps? Have an excellent day, Matt.
@@KingFox76 airplane paint is the same as any other automotive paint. You have 2 styles or mixtures (single stage- that is sprayed in 1 color coat and cures to a finish. It is somewhat easier to spray but less fixable I guess you would say if you get runs or spots you need to sand out. ). 2 stage or “base + clear coat” is the other. This is where you spray your color scheme- let it flash then top coat it with a very hard clear coat. That is what I did. The color goes on easily- the clear takes some practice and the right conditions to get it to lay down smooth but can be sanded later) As to airplanes- make sure your primer is rated for aluminum and fiberglass. Some automotive mixtures are not good at adhering to aluminum.
@@toolman311 Ok Sir, I know really nothing about either so I’m sure this will turn into another expensive learning situation for me. The 2 stage sounds like my best route, I’m sure I’ll have runs and bubble and the like. I plan on trying to spray a metal door this time home to get used to the gun. I’ve had the thing for a year… and it is still in the box. I was too motivated perhaps. Thanks again for sharing, your aircraft looks good.
Sanding isn’t so bad with a flush riveted airplane like your RV. My S-21 has pulled rivets so sanding its finish would be a nightmare so I am trying to learn to get a finish that minimizes orange peel yet still avoids runs as the rivet heads would greatly complicate sanding.
No chemical etching at all. Soap and water, then red scotch bright again with dish soap, then final wipe down just before priming with a wax/grease remover and spray. Used an epoxy primer specifically for aluminum. That does have an acid etch to it. Tach cloth and then base plus clear coats.
@@shanecoffey1914 60 gallon shop compressor. I have 2 water separators on the line though. One at the compressor and one almost at the end of the 100’ hose. Descant . Gotta have dry preferable cool air. Not right out of the compressor. Hot air holds moisture. Finish is maybe an 8 overall. 10 in some places with a few errors here and there. Wasn’t expecting perfection. Thanks for the question.
