I’ve had best results from brushing off boots then using saddle soap, then carefully wiping off soap and water with a clean microfiber towel as fully as possible. Then while the leather is still a little damp, applying an extremely light coat of a good conditioner (such as red wing). If you do this while the leather is still somewhat damp, the conditioner flows better and far less is needed to cover the entire boot. This results in retaining and enriching the original brown color that you want to see instead of the near black color that you’ll end up with when too much oil has been applied. Applying conditioner while the leather is still slightly damp also helps the conditioner flow deep into leather and penetrate and condition the fibers better too. I’ve tried many methods over the last 50+ years. This is what works best for me. If boots are excessively dirty, I’ll even clean them with saddle soap twice over a couple of days prior to conditioning them as indicated above. Doing it this way, a tiny dap of conditioner goes a long way and does the trick. Good luck!
Absolutely right, 21 years in the army, never had a problem with my boots. These boots were designed to be worked in. Used and abused. I bought my first pair last week, I used them for woodworking, yardwork, dinner with my wife, and cutting wood! The scarring can be sanded and buffed out. Thank you for sharing, real boots doing everyday work!
I like your boot videos alot. The ones you have on in the video, really nice also. You obviously know what you are doing and talking about. I will gladly take your boot cleaning/ care advice/ tips anytime. Great guy you are -Kirk
I’ve had my iron rangers for two years now as my everyday boot and work boot. Maybe not the most comfortable for 8 hour shifts, but I’ve never cleaned or maintained them and they’re still in good shape and keep out water all the way up to where the tongue is sewn to the sides.
As always another great video. Dish soap is perfect. I personally use Saddle soap on mine. I have a pair of 875s as well as the Iron Rangers 8115 with the new vibram sole in Copper Rough and tough. I use a mink oil on my 875a because use them hard and get them wet.
Amazing! Just cleaned my boots exactly as you instructed. The soap took of all the grime & dirt, made the leather look really nice! Literally like washing dirty hands with soap & a scrub brush. Thank you!
I see a lot of people commenting how you should get the boots resoled; get the leather restitched or changed out to make them look good. I agree on the resole part and I know that you have gotten them resoled already, but I personally think you should leave the leather as is. For me, when you leave your boots the way they are it’s almost like a memory keeper. Almost the same as when you get a scar on your body. You’ll always remember how you got it when looking at it no matter how many years go by. The same with the boots, keeping the leather in the rough condition that it is you will always be able to look at these boots and remember all of the fun and good times you had while wearing them because of how “beat up” the leather is. Once you change out the leather on your boots it’s almost like washing away all of those memories. I mean unless you get a big hole in your boot lol, but I’m sure you get what I mean! Great job on the resole by the way. Looks great!
Great job mate... My two cents: Get a cheap last and beat those suckers into shape. Also as a last step rub it with a chunk of industrial wax (the white one with no smell) and buff it with the grinder till it feels like wax canvas. Nothing sticks to it, its inexpensive and it lasts forevers.
Great Video, I worked as a Freight Car repairman and cleaned my Carolina loggers the same way. Once a week I brought them home and scrubbed them with regular Dawn soap and nylon scrub brush, it was the only way to get all the coal dust, grease and dirt off them. Needless to say there still going strong.
I think using a milder soap like Murphy's or saddle soap would get the boots just as clean, without stripping as much of the oil out of the leather. Also, you might consider using a conditionig product from Red Wing designed to condition and preserve this kind of leather. A coating of a wax-based shoe polish on the toe and heel caps when new might help to protect your boots from abrasion damage. Use an old toothbrush to clean the welt and apply soap and conditioner to the welt and other difficult-to-reach areas.
18 year military vet and I use fiebings saddle soap to clean, obenaufs oil to condition (work boots), and Lincoln stain wax to polish. I have combat boots on their 4th resole and 16 years old. That’s my method of care. Whatever works for you! If you want to polish over huberd’s or Obenauf, don’t over saturate the boot and let it sit a day. Otherwise, the polish doesn’t want to buff down completely because of the excess oils on the surface.
For really light colored boots and shoes I do use Saphir renovator. If it’s just light colored articles that won’t see much use but the color or patina matter use Bickmore #4. You will have to apply much more frequently
dish soap is gentle enough for leather. On a leather like that an abrasive brush won't hurt it. You'd kill Veg tanned leather like that. Ideally you'd use shoe trees but towels inside them providing they are packed tight enough are fine. Ideally I would let them dry inside but whatever. Chrome tanned leather is tough. There's not much you can't do to it. I've cleaned suede with a toothbrush and dish soap. That's not much different that what he did.
Thanks for the video. I've converted over to Dawn dish soap in our household after working in the oilfield. It seemed to take off Oil-based mud (drilling fluid) which leaves things covered in a tarlike coating. That may be helpful for someone whose boots are oily. Back in the day I used to clean my Doc Martens---yes it was high school lol--and recover in their boot goop. It was the best I've ever used to recondition leather. Haven't been able to find it since. Subscribed
I've been using plain Dawn dish washing soap for decades on my leather boots. Two things...1. Use a soft bristle brush, like used for dishes. The hard bristle brush is fine, but is a little harsher on the surface. No big deal though. 2. Make sure you thoroughly rinse ALL the soap off. Then, as long as you let it thoroughly dry, and use quality conditioner after, they'll be just fine.
Thanks, I was just about to write a thank you then you just had to all the sudden kick up the volume 50 desibles, my parents are sleeping in the next room, your killing me smalls! Killing me!
Just saw this I thought I’d chime in. I spent 20 years as a custom saddle maker and repairing most leather goods. Most people over oil. Too much oil actually opens the fibers allowing sand and grit in, not good, breaks down the leather to mush. The only suggestion I would make is to use more soap. Soap bubbles actually brings the dirt up to the surface so it can be rinsed away. Light oil and wax on. Good work. You know what you’re doing.
Interesting! Would you ever use mink oil, or Sno Seal? In your opinion what are the PROs and CONs. What is the considerations with using oil, or grease?
I totally agree no problem with using soap and water on your Iron Rangers! You will need to replace the oils and you do that so great job. I own two pairs of iron rangers and I love them one pair is for work the other pair for normal wear..GREAT video by the way...
5 years later, and I'm just seeing this. People do get afraid to scrub their boots. I personally prefer saddle soap for cleaning, and don't soak them near as much, to help keep from working dirt farther into the leather. But hey, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I then follow it up with obenaufs. That stuff is amazing. It really helps keep boots more water resistant , and keeps dirt/oil/grime from working down deep into the leather. Thanks for sharing your technique with the masses. Some people have never cleaned their boots, or know how to go about it.
That’s funny cuz my redwing store told me to use diluted dawn dish soap and a scrub brush. That’s what they use. And I got the polish and sealer. You’re doing it right!
Savage Family I guess you’d have to do that if you work hard with your boots but I don’t think the Heritage line is for the toughest of work. I own several so I know they’re built tough but Red Wing has an even tougher built boot line built for the hardest of work . Maybe this guy needs boots from that line.
Curious to know if you like the nitrile/cork soles in terms of how they grip when working and walking? Clearly those boots have seen some work. Thanks for the vid.
I totally agree with you. I see some people that use products, (saddle soap) that are a joke. I use regular soap on my boots and when I'm done I oil them up. No problems at all
My redwing logger/linesman boots have only lasted a bit over a year and are about to need replacing. I also have put them through hell with all the chemicals and salt in winter to swamp I'm hurricane season.
You are on the money. I have been doing this for decades with various leathers boots and I live in Britain and I'm a gardener. I scrub and clean all the shit off, let them dry naturally then use quality leather conditioners depending upon the time of year. Never had a problem and one pair of leather boots are 20 years old. Thank you for your time, keep up the good work 👊
@@KimballCody very true, however when I wear my messed up work boots people always ask where I got them from? My answer is hard work is were I got them from. I will be treating myself to some new iron rangers in May but gonna have to make the 70 mile trip to London to try them out, sizing sounds complicated.
Great video demonstrating how rugged these boots are. Question: you called and ordered a pair of factory seconds over the phone? I’m looking at getting a pair of seconds 8114s. I’ve just been waiting for STP to have them
Awesome video I did the same thing on my redwings chucka and was waiting to see what I was doing wrong cracked up. To see I’m doing it how I want to and I also add my own oils. People need to understand that we are all not always agree on everything different mind sets.
I got 11" steel toed Logger boots from RedWing through work ( went through 3 pairs in my 17 years ) $400 boots. When they got nasty Id put them in the washer with bleach, then let them air dry and then spray them real good with silicone spray. After 3 years Id start rubbing them down with mink oil. These boots have a lifetime warranty on them to an extent, after that its what you can do to make them last. My first pair lasted me 5 years as a utility worker in water and muddy conditions daily, my second pair lasted me 3 years in Construction and into carpentry for another 4 years, my last pair working in Forestry 5 years. Now I have a brand new pair that I bought on my own and only worn a few times but I'm sure they will get their use soon once I start building my kids treehouse and the start of rehabbing a house... RedWings take a beating but they are well worth the money spent, Ive never had a pair of boots outlast these.
Either that or use saddle soap (which is actually made to use on smooth leather). Or use a suede leather cleaner for suede type leather boots or other such items.
I clean my Upland Hunters about the same way, down to the nylon brush. I also wear my boots during the Texas summer and even while doing yard work, so they can get pretty sweaty. Probably at least once a year I pull the insole out and then use plain water to rinse the dust and sweat out of the inside. A few other things that I do are: Every time I take them off I dry them on a Peet shoe dryer overnight. After cleaning them I hit them with brown paste wax to restain the scuffed areas, in addition to using leather conditioner. And I throw my after market insoles into the washing machine every now and then. Using a shoe tree helps when cleaning and polishing your boots as it properly expands the shoe. Definitely use a shoe tree when when you're not wearing your leather boots (and shoes).
I personally prefer to use baby soap, and I completely submerge and soak my boots in the tub, and rinse them out until the water is good enough to drink lol. I actually use a carpet brush, really rough and tough nylon brush. I place them either over a vent or on a PEET boot dryer. Apache cream is a decent cream that I use. Awesome boots bro.
Do you use any comfort soles inside your boots? I'm debating getting either a pair of Dr. Sholes soles or the Red Wing comfort soles. I wear my Oxblood 8119's for all day 6 days/week but towards the end of the week the balls of my feet start to ache.
I spent a many years in the military and when I cleaned my boots I always used mink oil and a shoe tree when drying. Shoe tree when not in use. Always.
If you want, not sure how much it is but you can buy something called saddle soap. Does a pretty good job at pulling all the oils and such off leather.
Finally!!! someone who puts a real video together of how to really clean boots. Thought I was the only guy that scrubs with water and soap.....I’ve been using a method similar to yours for 25 years on tons of boots. I do the inside too with dish soap or laundry detergent then warm the boots in oven at 180 for 5 minutes and oil them up like crazy with RedWing boot oil.
I go along with your method except for the dish soap. After tge stiff brush, I kather on saddle soap, then wipe dry. After dry apply neatsfoot or Mink oil liberally. Let the oils soak in, then wipe off excess. I have kept good boots usable (Wesco), for up to 46 years that way.
That's how I've cared for my leather boots for years. I've owned Red Wings for decades. Use to be able to find a good pair for under $30.00. First clean off the old dirt, grime, oils, mink oil, waxes, conditioners, etc. Then apply new leather conditioners and waterproofing such as minx oil, Hubberds shoe grease or oil, Sno Seal, wax based products, home made such as from petroleum jelly and bees wax, etc. Some of the newer boots have an internal membrane that waterproofs the interior of the boot. If the boot not well made this waterproof membrane potentially will split or break. So more modern boots will have a waterproofing applied from the exterior of the leather and an internal membrane that seals out any water eventually seeping in from the exterior of a boot.
from my experience with lighter membrane hiking boots i dare to say they're not really reliable - i've had three of these with gore-tex liner and mesh sections on the outer shoe and they all broke after a year or less in the toe section, meaning they still look good from the outside, yet they're not waterproof anymore... maybe i bend them too hard, maybe they last longer on other people, but i don't believe in membranes anymore. i now have meindl army mountain boots that have lasted 7 years (admittedly not sooo heavy use but still!) and have never had any water coming in... they do have gore tex also, but i guess they're just still tight because their leather exterior is so very well made, with a few good stiches.
I totally agree with you! The problem with people nowadays is there afraid to use em as a tool. These were meant to be put through the harshest of conditions. Otherwise, what is the point of buying something and spending so much money on, when they're afraid to use em? The tackiest thing to have is a pair of boots, that are all shiny and still look new. Beat the hell out of em , they're a tool!
I also scrub my boots down with soap and water and let the dry overnight then the next morning I use bickmore number 4 conditioner and leather the boots with extra just sitting on the surface and then let it soak in for 10 minutes then buff it with a brush. Sometimes I use the scout brand Apache cream to help restore the original texture on my dress boots.
Hey, I work for Red Wing (5 years now) and I understand where you’re coming from with the idea of stripping the oil and then putting oils back in, but I can say from experience that soap will eventually rot the leather. I know you’re not using much and you’ll probably be fine, but it’s not the best way to clean them. You’re definitely 100% right about the heavy bristle brush, though. That’s how we clean them in my store
KimballCody saddle soap would work perfectly on iron rangers. The soap is a little milder and it has other ingredients that condition them as well as clean
@@DuzzenZ what's your opinion on murphy's oil soap? That's what an old saddleman recommended to me to use on saddles an tack because it won't leave residue in the stitching. Then use 100% neatsfoot oil to moisturize. He said ptroleum based oils will rot most nylon stitching over time and that bugs and mice like vegetable and coconut oils and get a rancid odor.
Joshua J. Aguero Well we’ve been using petroleum based boot oil (at least for non waterproof boots) for forever, and we’ve never had a problem with it rotting the stitching, so I don’t think that’s accurate. Never heard of anyone using vegetable or coconut oil on their boots haha, but I could see it potentially attracting bugs. Neatsfoot oil is definitely good for the leather. It’s become my go-to for my heritage boots as of about a year ago. Just gotta make sure you use a good amount to make sure the stitching doesn’t dry out in the event that you do try to avoid petroleum based oils. Hope i answered that well. If not, feel free to message me again
Wow, they go really dark after the oil!...I wish IR’s were made in a light tan so when they’re oiled they end up like the amber harness started out as.
If you dont want them to change color, use a conditioner instead. I used to use oil until I found out its really not the best for leather. I read the boot/shoe care makers know this but know people will buy it so thats why they sell it. It always darkens, it attracts dirt while wet, & it leaves the leather dry & prone to crack when it dries off. Leather conditioners instead are the way to go.
That’s cutting edge. Since I was a kid, I’m in my 50’s, There’s has always been people ready to criticize. Especially in my family. Most of them are dead now.
I use saddle soap on some boots and shoes but if they are really dirty and crusty like your boots, Dawn soap and a soft brush will do just fine. I use mink oil on my boots but people will use whatever they like.
Everyone has their own way of conditioning boots .. in the condition they were in I’m not sure what else you could do .. but I usually use all natural leather conditioner every so often ..but my boots are used more for casual use mostly for hanging out . But your boots look better than they did when you started the video 👍🏽
At least you are showing your boots some love. Just a tip, Red Wing has their own tannery and I would recommend you use Red Wing Boot Oil to replenish the leather with the same fats and oils Red Wing uses in the tanning process.
First pair of Red Wings lasted 22 years. I wore them Summer, and Winter, plenty of walking. Now on my second pair. I told my Grand daughter, when I croak, don't cremate me in these, give them to some one needy. They can keep em for a long time. I always brushed [ horse hair ] first, then a wash with cellulite sponge, dry with old t-shirt, oil , cream, or protection of choice, using a soft brush for application to make sure to get into the welts. Buff after a while, then stuff news paper or rags into the boots to keep the shape. Re buff with a shoe brush to be sure oils got pushed in well. Always remove laces, clean and treat the tongue like the rest of the boot. Your boots will last for decades, and get more comfortable all the time. My new Red Wings took about a day to break is to full comfort. Could do long walks immediately. Kimball this video was the best tutorial I have seen. I felt like you were talking to the people who really needed true advice, not a shop keeper attempting to move product. I learned my method in the Army, only diff. was it was black Kiwi shoe polish on the boots, not oils. The boot polish will give you a clue to my age. Best wishes for more informative videos.
I do it the sameway as you do with a stiff brush and dish soap but I like to use hot hot water in the sink bc I deal with a lot of salt and salt water at work
Like your attitude on not following the herd. Tips:Skip the scented brand name oil and use any vegetable oil. Shoe Polish is made with five parts veg. oil and three parts bees wax. Combine in a double boiler. Stir when wax is melted to blend polish. Pour into a used and washed plastic peanut butter jar. When cool and solid it is ready to use. Way cheaper and non toxic. My two cents. Best to you and yours.
I wouldn't use dish soap, but I'll use saddle soap and that's plenty aggressive for me. But yes, I do agree that boots; especially full grain leather boots will soak up everything around them. Mine have sucked up a ton of stuff, but saddle soap seems to get everything out just fine.
You can use a clothes detergent as it doesn't have the bubble bath in it like the dishwashing detergent does. The clothes detergent will be easier to rinse off than the dishwashing detergent. Most people don't realize there is a difference between soap and detergent, Soap is traditionally lye based and would be hard on the leather. But detergent is okay to use but needs to be rinsed off as good as possible. I like to use a leather conditioner/protector that has beeswax in it. I have some expensive Kenetrek boots and use the Kenetrek boot wax. That stuff is amazing. It conditions and waterproofs the leather really well but doesn't make them greasy.
Saddle soap has lanolin with soap to clean the boot without taking out too much oil. Dawn soap is fine as long as you put the oils back in the boot after cleaning the boot. I would probably use dishwashing soap if my boots were over conditioned or too dirty and I wanted to remove some of the oils and lighten the leather a little.
My work shoes I worked till the platform fell off where you can see my toes covered them in duck tape and nailed and glued and still use them as my daily work shoes some say I'm crazy but I saved money and it gets me through my daily hard man work and had them for 7 years.
