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How I soundproofed a timber floor.. "which works amazingly"

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A time lapsed video of how I soundproofed an internal timber floor. This video shows a step by step guide on how I retrospectively soundproof a floor within a property and it works really well..
The video shows a detailed guide on how I soundproofed a timber floor from taking the existing floor up to then installing the acoustic insulation, battening the joists , installing the acoustic soundboard, installing the acoustic resilient tape and finally laying the new chipboard flooring.
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Опубликовано:

20 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 33

@ShakzT 3 месяца назад

Lol, this is a super coincidence… I’ve been researching for the past 6-8 months, so many different tips, tricks, methods and techniques… and i literally came up with my own plan, which matches your plan to the T, and I’ve planned to start on Sat… what’re they chances you pop up! 👌🏽 The only differences In my plan is: • I will have only 1 layer or 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard • placing my 2-3mm MLV on top of joists (underneath floorboards) • using acoustic foam/pipe material to fill into perimeter gaps after floorboards! I’m really looking forward to starting it.

@tobysallthings-property6798 3 месяца назад

That's great. Hope it all goes well. Yes I did see some people reccomended laying the matting usually behind plasterboard on the walls but can see the benefit of laying it under the floorboard as an extra barrier. If you can let us know how you get on when you've finished the project that would be great. Good luck...

@waz9407 5 дней назад

Excellent video - couldn't agree more. Any idea how effective the accoustic noise reduction was?

@ShakzT 5 дней назад

Hey guys! Apols - completely forgot to update this. The noise reduction was actually pretty good! But in fairness, it wasn’t as good as I expected but here is why it’s justified: • I learnt… there is actually no such thing as 100% sound proof. Read that again. • My room is on top of a 8m x 4m kitchen, made of glossy tiles… so the echo and amplified noise will ALWAYS take something upstairs to my room But it’s good enough!

@jorgeandjessica579 Месяц назад

A fascinating video. I'm currently renovating an old 1936 3-bedroom semi and toying with the idea of converting it into two separate, self contained flats. Given the poor state of the existing 90 Y/O ceilings, I've already doubled up on the plasterboard. The work you've done in one of your bedrooms, is very good in it's purpose of preventing ambient noise being transmitted downstairs, to the people below. But (and I say this respectfully) the room you're working in is relatively small, so the weight factor of all your building materials used, wasn't an issue? I'd love to follow your example and soundproof the large front bedroom, so the (proposed) residents living in the ground floor flat, are not subjected to the sound of pedestrian traffic (people walking above). The biggest problem I've got, is the ceiling (or bedroom floor area) is 4.2m x 4.0m (13ft x 14ft). The weight of ordinary 12.5 mm plasterboard is "25 kg", the blue moisture resistant boards, I've bought for the en-suite weighs "28 kg". I should imagine the heavy acoustic boards, probably weigh the same (28 kg). So, given the fact I've approximately 16.8 m2 floor area to sound-deaden, this equates to 6 full size 8' x 4' boards weighing 28 kg each. This will add, an additional 168 kg weight to the long span, traditional floor/ceiling, or 336 kg if I follow your example of doubling up on the acoustic boards? And of course, all this weight will be added to the double skin plasterboard, already used on the ceiling below. Your system may work very good with modern (small span) floor areas, but it's really now practical with older UK properties. There must be other weight saving materials I could possibly use (I'm not aware off), offering the same acoustic values (maybe expanded polystyrene)? P.S … I know hindsight is a wonderful thing but can you imagine how beneficial and informative your uploaded video would have been, if you had displayed and recorded, the before and after sound readings, on some hand-held device? With taking that into account and all of us trusting you, to give a "honest and truthful" answer, please indulge me and answer one simple question. Using a "Spinal Tap" analogy, whereby the volume of sound was turned up to "11" for the occupants below, before you started soundproofing. What (truthfully please) would you say the volume was now? Many thanks for your time, Barry (Chester).

@ceegee22333 День назад

I'm doing the same Barry, about to start on Georgian townhouses that had already been converted (badly) into flats. Hoping to sound deaden and proof it out as much as I can without giving the existing ceilings and floors too much weight to bare and without breaking the bank doing so. Was hoping to come across a video of someone's thorough step by step. Was hoping to find somewhere in the UK that sells 'Sonopan' but it seems its only available in Canada. If anybody knows of any alternatives that will be great. Good luck in your project also

@allservepropertymaintenance 9 месяцев назад

Hi Toby, excellent video, well structured and clear. I absolutely agree with you about marking the floor up with joists and pipes etc, I do it on all my jobs now.

@tobysallthings-property6798 9 месяцев назад

Thanks for the Nice messege. Glad the vid helped..

@johncressey5346 2 года назад

Really helpful video on soundproofing floors, thanks for this

@tobysallthings-property6798 9 месяцев назад

Many thanks.. A lot of work in doing the soundproofing this way, but well worth it.

@Stoise 3 месяца назад

Thanks for this. incredibly helpful! I'm going to use this as the basis of my job also. The second layer of plasterboard on battens seems like a particularly good shout. Did you have to do anything around the perimiter of the room to stop transmission from the floor through the wall? (like a flanking strip of foam etc)

@tobysallthings-property6798 2 месяца назад

Thanks for the comment. I used that ac50 sealant on each board where it abutted the perimeter. Then when I installed the chipboard I used the sealant again around the edges. But from memory this was quite a challenge and I am not sure how effective it was at filling the gap properly. However a foam filling strip in hindsight would be a lot better/easier to do. Or the other option if its large gaps is an expanding foam. Hope that helps.

@bjart45 2 месяца назад

Hi Toby , thank you for the interesting content. At these days I have a similar challenge on the new second floor. May I ask- the top layer in the video is a new chipboard flooring , do you think that fiber-cement board would be better in the matter of soundfroofing? in addition , I'm going to use cork + Tecsound membrane under the leminate floor. Thank you!

@tobysallthings-property6798 2 месяца назад

Thanks for the comment. You will need to speak to the manufacturer to confirm this. But I am certain fibre cement board can not soley be used as finished flooring. As far as im aware their needs to be a solid substrate for the fibre cement board to fix to as its quite a brittle board. But if you find out another way to integrate this board please add it here as I can see why it would be a good product to utilise for sound proofing. Yes I have heard good things about Cork for its insulating and sound properties and also the tec sound products. Please let me know how you get on with your project..

@bentziyem7607 2 месяца назад

Thank you for your answer. I assumed that fiber cement is better for soundproofing because its compression. I know that cement board is an infrastucture for the final floor which might be leminate. 1.Tell me please , 2 layers of plasterboard and the chipboard is pretty enough in order to avoid footstep noise? 2.What is the exact kind of plasterboard? 3.Does this chipboard is kind of OSB plate? 4.Does the chipboard is your final floor or you need to install leminate or wooden parquet? I'm not sure I'll be use cement board because of weight and price. But I'm still checking. Thankx

@bjart45 Месяц назад

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Hi again.......1.What is the thickness of the resilient tape , and why not using instead of that resilient channels for a floor? 2. Is the whole constructure avoid foot steps noise? Thank you. I'm going to start my project on the next week..

@tobysallthings-property6798 Месяц назад

1) 4mm resilient tape. I thought I could do it without the need for the resilient channels. Plus with pipe etc in the floor i thought it was easier to batten. Plus probably cheaper. 2) both airborne and foot step noise.

@tobysallthings-property6798 Месяц назад

1) the plasterboard and insulation is more for the airborne noise, the resilient tape plus matting under the carpet is for the footstep noise. 2) acoustic plasterboard, usually blue in colour. 3)Standard interlocking chipboard flooring 22mm thick 4) No on top of the board we laid a 3mm thick regupol rubber matting. then decent undelay then thick carpet,

@superdiy7081 7 месяцев назад

Nice work, what type of soundboard did you use do you have a link? thanks

@tobysallthings-property6798 7 месяцев назад

Thanks for the comment. Its the blue coloured plasterboard you will get it from any merchants. The Blue colour of the board indicates the acoustic properties. I used a 12.5mm here but I doubled it up. They do sell a 15mm smaller board for this purpose, but I think it worked out cheaper to get the large sheets and cut them down. Good luck with your project..

@OngoGablogian185 8 месяцев назад

Do you have to do anything with the wires in the floor? As in, is it safe to have them wedged in between acoustic wool and materials like that without causing a fire risk?

@tobysallthings-property6798 7 месяцев назад

I made sure where possible loose cables were laid on top of the insulation or under but your limited to what can be done with them. I see where you are coming from but its no different to loft spaces where the cables are usually completely covered by fibreglass insulation. Usually the rockwool is fire retardant also. I am not an electrician so seek advice beforehand but assume as cables are fully insulated its only bare live cable that would be an issue such as the downlighters and as I mentioned in my vid I made sure these were covered with the protectors to ensure they where not covered. Hope this helps. Again always seek professional advice before undertaking work of this nature. thanks for your comment.

@OngoGablogian185 7 месяцев назад

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Awesome, mate, thank you.

@nickyjay 3 месяца назад

Nice job, I'm thinking of doing something similar. Did you use Rockwool RW45 or RW3?

@tobysallthings-property6798 3 месяца назад

Thanks. It was the acoustic rockwool which from memory was the RW45 it came in a slab. I have used the acoustic fibreglass insulation which looked like the stuff you would use in the attic. That did nothing. You need the denser slab insulation for the acoustic work..good luck with your project..

@nickyjay 3 месяца назад

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Thanks for the reply. We went with RW3 (60kg/m3) in the front room and RW45 (45kg/m3)in the bedroom 22mm T&G, mass loaded vinyl, underlay and carpet. We're Starting on Tuesday. Hopefully it does the job. Thanks for your insightful vid.

@tobysallthings-property6798 3 месяца назад

Perfect. Are you going with the resilient tape on the joists??

@nickyjay 2 месяца назад

@@tobysallthings-property6798 Yep resilient tape on the joists, flanking tape along the walls, any other gaps sealed with AC50. Hopefully that will do the trick. I'll post a reply to let you know how we get on.