Check out the new description. I know there are alot of things that arent proper here, and I was in the process of learning. I mainly keep it around because it shows that I really wanted to make youtube videos.
Thank you for the video..ignore the negative comments bro. You said flat out that you were new at it. You provided me with plenty of info and I appreciate you taking the time to do so. Thanks again sir
I think as several serious comments left below are actual experienced welders. I started with a stick or ark welder in the late 60’s, but got a MIG in 1984. The common or best practice is heat control. Since the parent plastic is thick but more of it, it will absorb more heat. Concentrate on the spot where these two meet, as you see changes in plasticity, introduce the rod. Now you are heating 3 items. Companies that make hot air welders and consumables tell you to push the filler rod into the joint of the pieces to be joined. Leading heat in front of the rod to soften the parent plastics allow you to melt in and mechanical joint the 3 together. Working on metal with a torch is closer to doing this work. As it melts at the joint, add the filler and move your heat onto it again while twisting the rod. Grinding a “VEE” shaped cavity helps it welding flush. Also, pre clean the area with isopropyl and lint free rag to remove dirt and other contaminants. But remember, to get good penetration at the joint, heat should be added first, then filler rod. Once some practice, it will come natural. Just keep the heat in front, even if you have to change hands. Right handed? Hold the heater in that hand, lead the filler, add and melts as slowly or quickly as able. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Good plastic welding iron, that’s what I remember learning to plastic weld with back in my apprenticeship years …. Plastic items usually have a recycle logo with a number or name inside the triangle. Having a fan draw away fumes from your welding is a good idea, don’t blow across your repair while trying to weld but you can when your weld is finished …
You should always keep the welder in front of the rod. Never on top or behind the rod. Keep the rod perpendicular to the weld ans push the rod into the heated material. You will get a stronger/cleaner weld with less distortion and ripple. Done correctly, you won't get any ripple.
Thanks for the video! I'm in the middle of prepping my dashboard for paint after cracking it. And as you said, PP is very common around the house. I've been practicing by mending laundry baskets and hampers aha
hook it up to a nitrogen or argon gas supply, helps prevent burning/oxidization of plastic.
6 лет назад
Nice try dude but people can be pretty harsh so if your new to something you need to lay it out letting folks know. Most will cut you some slack. I've never used a plastic welder but I've been a professional welder for 40 years and if that weld is normal for a plastic weld, I'll stick with glue. There isn't any fusing of the three surfaces to make one continuous piece. All it did was melt enough to stick the surface of everything together and just a little bit at that. Plastic welding is good but like metal welding because of the heat used it's limited to where it should be used. Even if it doesn't sound like it, I'm trying to help. Take it for what it's worth .
I would forget walmart, or target for bins.I would go to Goodwill, if they have a Good Cents Goodwill they sell everything by the pound so it would be way cheaper to use used items if your learning anyway...Just food for thought!
Wrong way, if other professionals do it right: Do not follow the rod with the hot iron - follow the hot iron with the welding rod, heating both: The material and the welding rod, while pushing the rod into the material.
The label shown at minute 2:40 is incorrect. PP is used in blow-molded products like bottles and other containers, is very chemical resistant, and is typically slightly transparent (milky) white. ABS is probably the most common plastic in the world and is used in telephones, keyboards, and household "hard" plastics and comes in every color imaginable. PVC is correct, but keep in mind that burning it (melting is ok, burning is not) produces chlorine gas, and when it combines with moisture in the air can create hydrochloric acid.
thanks very useful. People's comments can overlook the background information that gives the keys to a technology or process,but this is pretty thorough.
Dude. After 8 minutes of talk talk, the welding process begins. This was your 1st weld, wasn't it. Hah! Cool video, man. They'll get better. I got the information I was looking for thru this video. Thanks.
Seem s redundant to have to ruff up something your going to melt together. When you're basically mixing the two surfaces. You're not adherring two surfaces face to face. It sounds cool but seems practice is definitely necessary. I've tried so many times over the years to weld plastic but heat is definitely the trick. Too hot and u change the molecular structure and your project is too brittle. To cold and they stick together at the surface but don't meld together. I'm attempting some radiator repair and if you screw up, a bigger hole or thin fix. That's why I was curious about this hot air type. Never seen that before. Interesting. Thanks
Well you can check out my new content if you like! I think It's improved in quality quite a bit. Not to mention its more accurate. I still don't have a fancy camera or microphone however
Hey Darth Vader, those blue cheap bins do not last long under UV light,I would recommend using some kind of UV paint protection if sunlight reaches the plastics
Tin snips for straight even cuts, regular sander with 80 grit paper then 120 so surface is rough but flat and quality plastics are always recommended dead when fixing water tanks or gas cans, wash and dry all bits off roughened plastic first and TRY TO USE SAME TYPE OF PLASTIC! The blue plastic on the headlight fix was a poor match. Hard plastic to hard plastic, don’t patch over but match edges and seam....my survival instructor in the Army always said, “practice does NOT make perfect! But PERFECT PRACTICE makes perfect!”
what kind of plastic do you think was being repaired on the light cover? And i am wondering how to identify that.. I wonder if that too had a recycle label molded into and hidden somewhere on it.
@@manp1039 Even when there is no recycling symbol on a part, the plastic code letters are usually somewhere on it. The code letters are also just outside the recycling symbol, if present. Additional letters indicate composite filler material like glass fibre or glass ball (micro-sized).
Hmm at harbor freight? They may be available online. I know at harbor freight theyre tucked away a little bit. Like bottom shelf on the floor in the welding section. Im not sure where else
Well you can most certainly use it to get that texture. Surely it gets hot enough. HOWEVER I don't know anything about stipling pistols. You want to make sure you're doing it properly (however that is) especially considering its a weapon that could make or break situations. But im sure it could get hot enough to stiple plastic like that. But I would think you'd be better off just getting a soldering iron
@Weaver Cattle Company You actually can do it dude. I am welding plastics for 20 years (not like this guy, obviously) and I hv repaired hundreds of gasoline tanks. But I am not going to tell you how......use your imagination.... And one more thing. If you wanna do it properly, use a LEISTER gun. They are the expensive but the best from far.
My thought exactly! You can't go down the street without seeing something plastic along the side of the road. I thought the whole purpose of fixing something was to save money lol
You need to find the identification symbol for what it's made of on the intake if that was included, or practice with different fillers on scrap intakes. RU-vid videos are nice but for that application professional info is needed and there's no substitute for doing your homework. Google "resin identification codes" and "plastic recycling codes". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recycling_codes Once you know the material you can order the correct filler rod. Plastic welding is very much like other welding. You should clean your weld area to remove all oil or grease and on an intake I'd use a Dremel to groove the joint before welding for greater strength. My wife used to do custom sportbike fairings and add air scoops, blend tail lights etc. It's easy and of course you can do automobile body parts. Their symbols are on the inboard side of the part.
Do you know what a J O k E is ??????????It sure don't seem that you do...I can't believe their are so many of you that have no clue what a joke is,the only reason for that is you are more than likely just a kid and don't know ....
you did not go through cool down process, of startup, This being Harbor Frought, it would run like this bring air on line, then turn up heat, then for cool off turn of heat, keep air on, but good enough.
