Congratulations on crushing your enemies, driving them before you and hearing...well ok great job winning! The funny thing is just a week or so ago I saw a video headed "Slapchop is over!" Sigh, great technique, thanks for the video!
Doing the slapchop and adding some weathering details might be a cool way to grimdark them up. Adding some oils/ streaking grime is something I will have to try out! Cool miniature!!
Contrast paint guide yes please! Thanks to you I actually started painting and it has been way less frustrating. Perhaps some pointers on layering or how to check out how the color will look on a model before applying would be helpful!
Im loving the idea of slapchop using a complemtary colpur as the base coat, e.g., purple then highlight with white. That will nake the yellow pop even more so!
It works really really well, but magenta would be the correct undercoat. There's a few videos on YT about it. Also switching out the cold whites for ivories may help saturate the yellow.
easily my go to guy for painting tutorials. my guard actually get painted because of your videos. id love one on how you prime your models normally and not just the slapchop
So good to hear that! I have a short on how I prime but let me know if I'm missing any tips you need and i can see about doing a video! ru-vid.com51Hx1uTmtSw
I've always found the Gravelord Grey army painter speedpaint to look awesome when doing slapchop on metals to add a little bit more depth and help with the blending
Congratulations on the win Andy, will certainly be keeping my open for the contrast video. Although I liked the finished mini in the video for a darker feel, I wonder how much punchier it could have been ( if that’s what you wanted) if you had used pinks for the under shade? Do you think that would have worked and do you think it would have worked under the red or would you have had to dry brush that grey scale still so essentially dry brushing two different colours?
I super like how the models look right after the dry brushing stage, and I totally get why you left the blade and the metals bits on the plasma pistol without your contrasts. However.. the blade looks like it's made of stone. Perhaps you should have used the blue on the glyphs and the little power rod thingy on the blade, so it kind of glows a bit.. just like the plasma and the eyes. It probably would fit pretty nicely.
Congrats on the victory! I found while painting my knights the undercoat really affects Imperial Fist yellow, if you want a cartoony canary yellow instead of the grimdark greenish yellow here, using a cream colour like ushabti bone instead of grey for the undercoat will make it more yellow-y
I use basilicanum grey for metalica effects on contrast minis. It works really well I think and would just take the edge off of the highest white I have going on there
Never let it be said that speed painting doesn’t look awesome! You’ve faced off against some incredibly skilled painters. Louise is super talented and Peachy was pretty much the king of getting things done quickly back when he was at GW. Congrats dude.
Since I have watched your content, my control with Contrast paints has improved significantly. Not a huge Slapchop fan, but using your method of Chaos Black, then Grey Seer is great.
I love the votan vid you did a while back for the yellow theme. It's so easy to follow and great results. I don't have the patience to sit there 5 hours for each model.
Congratulations! I think you should consider trying a different prime color though. It makes for less dirty and more natural look. For instance, brown instead of black primer for the yellow marine. It's good for red too. Then try Navy for blues, etc.
Well done! I think a *bit* more contrast on the non-metallics would be good. Wouldn’t add much time to add some extra shading / highlights to give that feel of shine.
Contrast is a great tool to have in your painting kit. Like everything it just takes practice, I like to get a box of basic troops that have a bit of everything like teeth, leather, skin, armor or metal, and just practice
if people want a brighter pop to the armor you can also prime the model red and then drybrush up to white. this will turn teh dark reses into a more orange
Looks decent. Maybe leviathan purple on the rope and frostheart on the sword. Gotta wonder if the yellow would've taken better if you used pinks instead of grey seer and corax white
Contrats for the win! The IF looks great! I did some Kruleboyz from the Dominion Box like this as well. Just think that Nazdreg Yellow is a better stand in for the gold, cause it is a bit darker. But that is personal preference.
My current technique (which is working very well) to produce tabletop standard minis is to use a white basecoat followed by contrast/speed paint for the base layers follwed by oil based washes for all the shading. I think the end result smashes anyhting else out the park for the balance between speed and quality. I love oil washes.
I don't know, the guy seems a little too green for my tastes. But I know how that happened: yellow over black creates a sickly green-yellow, because most black paints are actually just really, REALLY dark blue. So when the yellow goes over the parts with some black on it (as opposed to the deepest recesses, where it's very black still), it filters a bit of that blue through. This is why Yellow is such a difficult color to work with. I've used the Slapchop method to paint yellow before, and I used a different variant of the technique I learned from someone on RU-vid: priming in an antique bone color, then giving it a brown wash, then dry-brushing up from there. It makes it so the recesses are a deep brown, rather than a black, which is far more friendly with the yellow that goes on top. It's also just generally a good way to make the whole piece warmer.
Yeah Imperial Fists over yellow is pretty nasty. Starting either bone or (believe it or not) pink will give a much better result. Slap chop up to white from your basecoat and then yellow contrast over top.
As you say, a job that would look good on the table top, especially with a bunch more. As Stalin said, "Quantity has its own quality". As for me, I would have used a silver over the sword and the gold parts and then put a contrast on top. If you are looking for that sort of finish on the sword maybe Apothecary White while on the armour pieces the yellow that you used. That silver will just make it pop a little more against the other yellow.
For the sword i would suggest space wolves grey. It works for me really well as a base for nmm steel. Also: for warm colours like yellow I would suggest a dark brown or very very dark red or magenta basecoat before the drybrushing stage. Makes the yello look less greenish.
I also would love to have a painting guide that does something like the triad method for contrast basing. I find sometimes I'm like, okay, but what is the layer paint for snakebite leather???
May I add my congratulations. Loved the technique video. Very clearly explaining orocess and limitations. Not sure the Yellow was bright enough for me and honestly I would have run a light blue over the sword blade (other power colors are available). Nevertheless as you say the result is a very passable tabletop force. Q. Do you have a process for "black" armour?
I never thin them! Usually if you’re getting stains it’s because you have too little paint on your brush. You need to apply more than you think you need, apply it in sections and wipe away any excess after the surface has been covered. Stains are often from dragging too little paint across too much surface or it’s drying too fast because the layer is too thin.
If you ever watched dumb and dumber, in moments like this, I would be the guy in the crowd yelling "Kick *their* a$$, Seabass!" Like I shared before I've been sharing your videos with my OW thread group because of how good your process is at being simple, effective, and good.
In my experience at least, if you want a darker green, use this video's method but replace the yellow with Warp Lightning contrast paint; if you want a brighter green like GW painted 40k Salamanders, use Karandras Green. If you want really dark green Horus Heresy Salamanders, you can use Militarum Green, BUT this paint is REALLY transparent and weak so you'll need to be careful applying it, it pools and stains inconsistently easily.
I was super annoyed with all the slapchop nonsense that came out. It's just sketching with glazing. I saw Vince and a few others do tutorials on that a long time ago before this slapchop craze. I appreciate the discussion of the actual paint of the contrast paint I think that's really the only real difference is using a new paint medium rather than just a glaze.
