Great videos thanks - helpful for understanding what good electrical work should look like - and a reminder why it's not a good idea to 'have a go' myself with our 110 year old house 😂
Excellent a wonderful presentation. I am a former Sparky in England and wanted to check to see how the Aussie's do it as i have family near Armadale and they have a lighting problem so i can give them the correct advice now. Thank you.
Technically the power still goes straight to the switch in the loop at light method as the looping terminal is just an alternative to a connector between cables. You just can't run the active wire separately to the neutral and earth because they come as an insulated 3x cable together. Looping at the switch is definitely the popular method in Australia.
Yep correct the hard active goes the switch but not much it can do there apart from switch back to the light using a twin active. Looping at the switch is the way to go 👍
first one is called top feed, second is bottom feed. Second wiring is very common. But first wiring is not common now, which may happen in this kind case: a switch outside a room controls a light inside the room, now want to move the outside switch to inside, and the two switches position is far way. So loop the feed wire with light wire in outside switch, so the phase wire go to the light position, then lay a twin phase wires to the inside switch, the important is here: loop the phase wire with the twin phase wire in light position, then the new phase wire goes to the new switch, then another phase wire(one of twin phase wire), normally white color, go to the light. The circuit is done.
Hi mate, great video. I have a quick question. If your wiring downlights with plug in plugs in the roof, is it easier to loop at the plugs and then run a single cable down to the switch in the wall or would you still loop at the switch for this setup?
Great video , thanks , I do have a question ,I am changing my incandescent fitting to an LED which has only two wires , is it the red and black that connect to the LED ?
Interesting video on how wiring was done. If a second light was on the same switch is it just wired with the active from light 1 into Loop on 2 and Common from light 1 into active of light 2? Why did we change from loop at light to loop at switch? Is there less wiring required with Loop at switch?
a-ha. so if you had 'looped at the light' that's why you could shock yourself working on installing new lights as it's LIVE but looped at the switch the light is not LIVE as such?
So if someone wants to add more lights to the “looped at the light” circuit they would run another cable going from the active to the other light or from the loop terminal?
Very well explained. Q. I had a single light bulb in my shed that had the old system looped at the light. If I've replaced the single bulb with three fluros, and continued joining the earth and neutral, and looping the live, should it not work? (the earth was not connected at the switch) I keep tripping it grrrr
In the first example looped at the light, you've got the looping terminal within the light. If the light is removed does this mean the 2 switch wires will read 0 voltage, but this is potentially normal? Trying to diagnose why a light is not working in an old house.
So on the first one when i turn off the switch there is still live power at the light socket ? When I turn off my light the tester still lights red showing power is there . Cant find the breaker .
Hey mate, great video. I just bought a combination light/ceiling fan switch that is touch activated to replace the old dial/switch that broke. When I pulled the old switch off I noticed that there was no earth and neutral to the switch. It had me boggled until I found you video. House is about 40+ years old. My problem is the new switch won't work without the earth to the switch. Can an earth be be traced from the light/fan and brought back to the switch?
Interesting! I haven't actually installed a touch one before. There should be a wiring diagram that came with the switch that should say what it needs. It sounds fancy so im just assuming it needs a neutral and earth from the same circuit from where the active and switched active originates from the fan.
Great video! Is there a way to determine how many lights or how much electricity you're putting through a circuit breaker? I want to put up some extra lights in the backyard, however do not want to put too much load on the 'Lights' circuit breaker.
@@allelectricalau Actually, no, it is a simple power sum divided by voltage (to give breaker current). Resistance (Ohms law) just unnecessarily complicates the calculation.
@@brendanoconnor4802 Ohm's law is V=IR. Your version does not contain the unit that is named after him! My point is that you only need W=IV for this calculation- the lamps will declare their power rating (W), you know the supply voltage (V) so you can calculate the required amp rating (I) of the breaker. No ohms are involved in the calculation.
Top stuff manzo!So is looped at the switch and then on to light what you call in series? If so ,how then would i add a female socket after light to create a "Dim bulb current limiter" ?
All good.I figured it out. A Dim bulb current limiter is a simple contraption consisting of a switch ,lightbulb,and outlet wired in series.If theres a short anywhere in whatever you have plugged in the lightbulb lights up taking up the current saving more damage to item.Mainly to check ol valve amps etc..Thanks tho!😀
My switch board operates two sets of downlights - One switch is On/Off, and the other On/Off with a manual dimmer. I was looking at changing to dimmer smart switches - my switch only has Red and White wires on a 2016 Australian Apartment block. Do I have a neutral wire? I'm just confused by the wire colouring. can anyone help?
Cheers mate, thank you! I'm yet to see the "loop terminal" used. So far I've seen two Green-Red-Black cables coming down to a switch and while reds connect through the switch, Greens and Blacks are usually twisted and connected in a separate terminal. In what case would the "loop terminal" actually be used?
So the black ones can either join in the loop or join in a connector both are legal. My preference is join in a connector because I feel it does a better job.
If you have a active neutal earth from your switch to your first light in order to add another you would have to run another A+N and earth cable to the next light from the existing light. And yes they would just join together. Need to pay attention to how the house is wired because people think just because the light switch is off there is no power. NOT THE CASE! I always recomend to use a qualified electrician.
Running a spur to every light from the switchboard is massively inefficient. The UK system of a ring main looping all of the light fittings on a floor, with a spur to each switch (as in the LHS example) uses less cable, fewer breakers, and is simpler/cheaper to install.
@@allelectricalau It is quite a simple system- the cable (5A flat twin + earth) leaves the dist. board, goes to the first light fitting, daisy chains to all the rest, and then back to the board (same breaker)- so twice the current capability of a single cable. The same system is used for the power circuit, only using 30A cable. The kitchen cooker is on a separate spur. So, 2 story house = 5 breakers. Do not understand why it is not more widely used...
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop think your confused. We dont not run a seperate cable to each set of lights from the switchboard lol. We just loop the cable from the switchboard to each switch on the circuit.
@@wally4172 Sorry, but your reply is far from clear. Are you saying that you use a multi-drop spur for lighting? How many drops would you have on a spur? How do you decide that? Do you do the same for power, and if so, the same questions.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop mains in and out to each light switch then a switch live off each light switch to the light/lights in the individual room. No cable rings back to the board for the lighting circuit. It’s the sockets that are a ring
Hi, On an electrical website for a company in Melbourne they said " In Australia, the main method used to wire lights is called the ‘loop at the light’ method". I'm not saying that you are wrong, I'm just questioning it. My house is old and I think my lights are looped at the switch.
Good question! So most older houses are looped at the light but more commonly these days are looped at the switch. Reason being is you use the same cable for all the wiring if you loop at the switch. If its looped at the light its a different cable (red and white) down from the light to switch.
My old house built in the early 80's was looped at the light, My newer house built in 2005 is looped at the switch. Looped at the switch is much better especially with smart switches coming in that require an Active and Neutral connections. IMO if anyone wired looping at the light there crazy.
@@tready2008 The problem here is the design and placement of the 'smart' unit. It they replace the switch, then they have to be cosmetically similar to others in the house, requiring a range of offerings. If they are mounted at the light, the colour, shape, size are less relevant- and have the advantage that the switch can be used as a 'if the state changes, change the light state' input. So, the light can be used as either manual or 'smart' by different members of the family. Saves a lot of arguments...
@@allelectricalau i'm gradueted of an electrical vocation school,it's been 10 year since i made electrical instalation in homes,offices,school,etc,that's my experience,thank you ,sir
@@allelectricalau In my bathroom there is a ceiling light+exhaust that sometimes goes dark while running. I am thinking to replace the switch of the light with a switch+socket. Then I will plug in a night-sensor light into the socket. Now whenever the ceiling light switch is turned ON the sensor light is also switched ON and if the ceiling light goes dark the sensor light will light up.
