How long should your tyres really last? | Auto Expert John Cadogan 

Not only do you lay out your points in clear and understandable language but your sense of humor and creativity really is such a treat!

Swifts from about 12 years ago had a rear tyre wear issue from new, which required the beam axle to be tweaked to correct it, but once done, they lasted very well.

Only 20,000 km.... OUCH ! ... And here is me averaging 78,000km per set and stroking my beard wondering how I can improve on that...

I had a set of Toyo Proxes 4 on my 2007 BFII Falcon, got over 60,000 k's on them in 18 months. The ones I like now are the Hankook Dynapro 10ply tyres on my utes. The 2 sets (RF10) on my D40 Navara did 180,000ks each set with tyre rotation every 20,000ks. The new RF11 I have on my D-max have done 70,000 k's and still have 6.5 - 7mm of tread on them. I'm not gentle on them either, lots of long distance towing, semi regular off roading into forestry blocks and I'm not shy of cornering a little quicker than normal at times too.

Thanks John. How about different compounds of the rubber? Winter tires vs winter tyres?

OMG! I used to track day my Ford Focus XR5 Turbo (which has been flashed for more torqure & power), drove it 'enthusiastically' daily and sold it after putting 110,000 kms on the clock. Never had to change tyres (Khumo sports tyres), brake discs or brake pads.

Just replaced a set of Dunlop Sport Maxx tyres that had 32,00 km on them with 2 track days included in that distance, this took the tyres down to 2mm of tread life left which for how I drove my car is a reasonable lifespan for those tyres. I would have a higher than average tyre wear than most drivers as a performance car will always use softer compounds which wear more, if you are an everyday regular driver do some homework and look at what characteristics you need in your daily drive whether that is comfort, longevity or performance there is a tyre for you. And if you really want some decent tyre life skip the cheap Chinese death trap tyres and buy a good set of tyres from a reputable brand where the tyres have been independently reviewed so you have a good understanding of how the tyres will perform.

I will take lower km over lower grip any day. I watch wear and pressure regularly and rotate accordingly. I dont get directional tyres and always put the one with the most tread in the spot of the one with the most wear each time. Front alignment every 10-15,000km. The cost of tyres is not really much compared to the potential cost of taking an extra car length or two to pull up in an emergency.

Hi John thanks to your advice on other tyre video, I got new tires both of our cars. I also checked the manufacturing date of the new tires.

Hi John I drive a 202 Kia Sorrento GTLine. WhenI drive it around 50klm the tyre seem to make a woh woh sound (wop wop Italian style) would this be common or have they a flat spot? Over 50klm they are silent.

Hello, Cadogan. Do you have input on rubber grades such as all season vs. performance tires? I have a 2016 Mustang GT Ford Performance Pack 2 with a 6sp manual and 4.09 rear end. When merging onto Donkey Shit Highway from Donkey Shit Street (here is California) in 3rd gear it lights up the tires with between half and 3/4 throttle (I have to go from 25-30mph to 70mph in a short... very short distance). Traction control, being a better driver, takes over and it is smooth sailing after I back out the throttle, it does it's math, and I ease back on the throttle. I currently have NTSSS G2 at 36psi (they reach 38psi on Donkey Shit Hwy travelling at 75mph at 80F). Max press. rating is 40psi with a do not exceed 340kPa 50psi rating for both F and R tires. Treadwear 320 Traction AA Temperature A Tread Plies: 2 steel, 2 poly, 1 nylon Sidewall Plies: 2 poly (sorry, no crackers for poly) Mounted them 3 years ago as of July and have about 15k miles. The latest manufactured tire is the front right (45th week 2018 according to the placard) currently 5.71mm outer, 5.58mm mid, and 5.65mm inner tread. The oldest, coincidently, is also the right side but rear tire made the 44th week of 2018 with 6.67outer, 5.89mm inner, and 6.23 inner tread, rear left is 5.78mm outer, 5.56 mid, and 5.85 inner (may have to add a psi to the rears). Front tires are 255 and rear tires are 295 width. The rubber of these tires feels harder than the Micheline Defender LTX on my other vehicles. They are directional, so I cannot rotate left-right. I will probably get non-directionals next time. Are "performance" tires only good when abused and brought up to a certain operating temp compared to all season rubber which seems softer when cold? I do not track the car. First gear is great for up-hills regardless of grade but the car will happily spin the tires after rolling even in second gear at... say 2500rpm... all the way to one's heart's content... which I do not want because no traction is bad. Note: tires do not smoke or leave skid marks on the road as those that can be found in some people's undies between where their rear cheeks meet. And it does not take much throttle to light them up. The car is generally driven on dry surfaces between 56F and 78F... occasionally up to 85F but rarely. There are guys that say performance tires are always better but I am pretty sure there are operational temperatures that make some rubbers better than other in some condition such as those here on Donkey Shit Road and Donkey Shit Hwy. I am not concerned about Donkey Shit Ave. or Ln. as there is no need do to the 25mph to 45mph speed limit. The issue is entering Donkey Shit Hwy from 25-30mph and matching Hwy speeds in a fairly short distance safely. Regardless of the tread life left above the wear bars (based on wear rate over this time, I will come no where close to these bars), I will be replacing these tires in less than 2 years as they are getting old. Maybe I need to replace the 4.09 rear for a 3.73 to reduce torque load... or should I consider all season tires? I appreciate your input. Cheers, M.A. Barbosa

Interesting question. I have a number of differing vehicles and they get widely different life from the tyres. A suzuki SX4 runs the cheapest tyres at about $200 each. Typical "efficiency" tyre for those small cars. i get about 30,000-40,000km with that one. Patrol gets about 60,000km from a sset of 4x4 AT's at somewhere around $300-400 per tyre. Outlander gets about 70,000km from tyres that run $400 and my Cayman looks like getting well over 40,000km from the new set of tyres on it averaging $500 per tyre. The tyres fitted to the cayman when i got it from its previous owner only lasted me about 15,000 but they were significantly cheaper nankang tyres. They were not even a good performance tyre having far less grip than the PS4S I replaced them with. the dirt/gravel road I live on definitely reduces the life significantly, especially on the SX4. All these are driven like they were stolen and run ~40spi pressure.

Toyota Prado with Cooper A/T that are 95% touring on road with the occasional dirt track and I get 90 to 96,000klm out of them . This is my third set that I have just put on and they come with an 80,000klm warranty so I cant complain. I do check tyre pressures and rotate them every 12,000klm as I have a compressor and all the gear at home so that definitely keeps them running at peak performance .

A lot of FWD cars have a bit of negative camber to aid handling with crap rear suspension geometry. My experience was a DJ Mazda 2 and a w168 a-class. Both wore through the inside edge of the tyre with plenty of meat left on the rest of the tyre. That was about 30000km for each of them

Quality brand, correct pressure, balance and alignment.

07 Dodge Nitro, OG Goodyears - almost 100,000km. Second set, Kumho, about the same. 2016 Suzuki Vitara, OG Continentals -about 30K km. Wasn't happy ! Didn't help that dealers don't rotate tyres at services and the OG tires I think were lower "treadwear" number than the Kumho's that we got 70K km plus from. But as John said, tire life and grip are related. I once had a set of GT Radials on my ute that lasted ages. They were hard and slippery in the wet, yet kinda ironically, their tread pattern was excellent at shedding water. They didn't aquaplane in puddles of water like other tires I've had.

I like watching your vids John. A little trivia for you, but true. I have a 2014 Mazda3 which I bought new. It currently has 225000ks on the clock. I got 107000ks out of the original tyres. Still on my second set of tyres, and still on the original brake pads. ZOOM ZOOM.

Lots of variables that determine wear. Road conditions, temperature, air pressure , driving habits, type of tires, type of vehicle, flat or mountain driving, suspension maintenance etc

Hey John, I have a question about tyre wear. It may also be an idea for a small story. Do the microscopic rubber particles have any impact on our food or water, in the same way that micro plastic does. Keep up the good work and have a great Christmas.

there are a number of things that many people don't think about regarding tyre wear. #1 is how much tread depth there is on the tyre to start with ... most passenger tyres have pretty low tread depth compared to light commercial and 4wd tyres. Some of this is to reduce the weight ( and expense) of the tyre on small vehicles. #2 Tyre diameter and therefore circumference, small cars with relatively small wheels will also have dramatically less tread length #3 bigger tyres tend to have more tread depth, because of proportion and weight being less of an issue. The above three therefore easily explain why cars with small wheels, burn tyres much faster. One particular 4wd tyre manufacturer makes a big deal out of a particular mileage figure, which in fact is nothing special, but sounds remarkable to a passenger car driver who is used to burning small tyres with small tread depth. BUT there is a pay off .... these smaller lighter tyres cost a lot less. There is a sneaky little trick here though ......... most modern cars have more expensive "high performance tyres" on them than a similar vehicle would have in previous models. Yes these soft compounds have a lot to answer for too. Back in the day, my mate " The Kin Kin Kid" complained that he burned out a pair of the same tyres, on the back of his Datto 1600, as I was running in the matter of weeks, BUT, he was driving to and from work every day thru the forestry, more often sideways than not.

I am not sure but never classed myself as a homintelictiual but I love you John you are the man keep going you legend

Love the shirt bro!

John, that's oddly low mileage for tyres/tires to be worn out. (By my standards) Just replaced all 4 tyres on my Nissan Sunny (Sentra) 1,4 front drive car when they reached the TWI. 63,000km, I've got the paperwork to prove it. They were Goodyear Duragrip 175/70×13, and were rotated every 10 k It would be interesting to see what other readers are experiencing. Very interesting as always. 👍

My last car and my current car were both fitted with Hankook all season tyres, and 20,000 miles is about where I change them. They've still got 3-4mm left in them, but snow performance drops off at that point, so they get changed in the autumn.

I had a set of Nexen tyres on the back of my WH STato that did 100K kilos and still had lots of tread on them.

Im in the Sydney Motor trade and I saw a Range Rover Sport only 3 months old that needed 4 new Michelin Pilot Sport 275/40 20s, the outer edges of the old Pilots where showing metal, I think they cost over $400 each at the time

Completely unrelated (to any video you've made I think) but what's the G-Shock collection looking like? Any favourites?

Thank you for your insights, it's very useful, at least now I know, what's the ball-park number to check whether my tyres have done they're part. As you know, the dealers always say 40k guaranteed, which I don't believe at all.

Hey John, a contributing factor to tyre wear in Oz (and the main one i would suggest) is that right hand turns are the longest turns in Oz, therefore the left front tyre is subjected to load for the longest time.......opposite in Merica.......and never follow manufacturers recommended tyre pressures

I drive mostly in the city, and sometimes a bit aggressively. I still get 50 000 km out Of a set Of premium tyres 🤷🏼‍♂️ If you buy the ”eco” tyres or the chinese budget ones, they have harder compounds and last longer. But it’s not just the brand. A single brand like Michelin has various different product lines. Some have much much harder compounds than others.

At what point does over inflating a tyre affect it's grip? 20% above recommended seems pretty high.

Bridgestone Dueller 235/65R18 106H on a Nissan Murano (70 to 80k) around $400 each but I believe these are more the harder compound rather than the softer more gripper and less noisy compound?

some strange physics anomaly allowed my early 90s astra to seem to have zero tyre wear over the 30k I had it after a random rim and tyre combo. I sold it as "50% tread" because of the age but no one believes they were not only just replaced.

someone going through that many tyres in a shopping cart needs their own tyre review channel.

I agree, but it depends also sometimes/often to the brand of car. Have tested hundreds of models... The biggest surprise was ones a Renault Kangoo 4x4. That car has just eaten up every year a set of tires, especially at the rear, max 15000K's. Everything was more than checked, some Driveline system are not 100% developt and creates in full steering angles a pretty hard bracing. Every car is different, especially at 4x4 constructions 🤠👍

I got 45,000 put of a set of 295/35 21 Davanti 640's ( driven reasonably hard at times) and I reckon I could of got another 15- 20,000 easily if only I had picked up on a wheel alignment issue that wore out one inner edge right on the side wall area.

I got 120,000 k on my FJ cruiser running BF Goodrich all terrains which I put on in 2014 when I bought it new. They weren’t done but retired them like Bradman on 99 because I got a screw near the sidewall. Now on second set. The KO2’s ,and odometer sits at 190,000 still plenty of meat left and very quiet on the freeway. Great tyres except they’ve got as much traction as a barefoot water skier in the wet. ( 80% tarmac 20% off-road. Always check pressures and rotate tyres )

i used to run pirelli phantoms on my superbike in the 80's. due to having a bit of fun on it and a weekly fun run over a couple of saddles, or practice time at the local track. i would average 5k for a new set. and yes they were bloody expensive, but you could really get the power on while the bike was on its side. it was the best way i knew at the time to blow off from a high stress job where i worked at least 100 hrs a week. i would have thought with his mileage that he is not very sympathetic to his tyres or have been buying cheap rubbish.

The best wearing tyres I've ever had were Kelly Springfield Steelmark 78 back in the late 80's. These lasted 80,000 ks, I did alot of driving back then in a Holden Premier station wagon.

Most of these comments are about base model cars, my experience with sport tyres is more like 20-30,000kms and that's really stretching them. But I get great grip and excellent wet weather grip with pilot sport Michelins.

My old Marc C-Class would last around 15,000 miles (24,000km) before the tyres would be below 2mm which is when I tend to replace them since the U.K. is a wet place and I find the performance drop off in the wet under 2mm to be a bit too much for my liking. Some other vehicles I’ve owned have gone more than double that distance between tyre changes so I get where the writer of the question is coming from. It really does seem to be down to the car how fast they will wear out.

I got 80k plus kms on my bridgstone duelers on my ute, aftr replacing, an added bonus, my frnt suspension felt new, d tires were absorbing d punishmnt n wear n tear of daily drivng rather than d shocks, ball joints, tierods etc

The roads are so terrible where I live that tires usually die to potholes, running over chunks of asphalt or solid bricks of ice hidden under the snow during winter. Lots of people drive around with totally screwed up alignment. Either that or you don't drive enough KM and the weather eats them away after about 5 years they're dry rotted.

I would say swapping tires out after about 6 years is a good idea regardless of tread life. More than that and you are more prone to encountering random failures from internal delamination, etc. Not something to take a risk with honestly IMHO. I recently bought some Michelin Crossclimate2 tires for my Corolla because I want to see if they can truly replace running two sets of tires here in Canada. So long as the tread lasts me 6 years, I will be very happy. Rotating, inflating, and will measure the wear to make sure I'm running appropriate pressures.👍

I’m pretty hard on rubber. When I was running a Megane RS, I was lucky to get 12-15,000kms out out soft Euro rubber. MX5, around 30,000kms. 30,000kms is fine by me. Soft performance rubber wears out faster. It just does.

I wonder if it isn't the camber of the roads in Oz and Sat Afrika, that lean towards the left, placing more weight and force on the left hand side tyres, causing them to wear faster?

I used to run European made Michelin tires (Pilots, if my memory serves me correctly) on the VS SS Commodore I used to own at $400 each back in the day, never did I only get 20,000 km out of a set of tires. I bought a Mitsubishi Pajero new in 2012. I just bought my second set of Cooper tires recently. The first set lasted me 80,000 km, not rotated at every service. The shoulders were starting to rub out and were down to the wear indicator bars, getting too hard and skittish in the wet weather. 20,000km? What are the tires, cheap Chinese knock off's?

Fitting tyres and doing front end work with wheel alignments for 12 years I’d say 20,000 is way too low kms for a standard cars tyres. 4° out on the rear end sounds like a lot to me but I’ve been out of the game a while now. Btw my 2018 Mazda 3 just got 70,000km out of the original tyres.

25k is too low. Mine lasted 55k on Chevy beat/ spark diesel. I run 3_4 psi high in front. Second set is close to 45k right now. I do alignment every 5k and alignment plus balancing plus tire rotation every 10k. I never let the pressure drop below manufacturer recommendation.

That’s strange…🤔 I don’t know if any specific conditions come into play in Australia, but 25.000 km would be acceptable for a set of sport oriented tires. With “premium” tire manufacturers it fairly common to get in the range of 40.000 to 60.000 km from a set of “non-eco” tires, more if you use the later (at the expense of grip, like you mention). As a reference, I’m talking about Portugal, using summer tires and with our average ambient temperatures.

I've never understood these types of complaints. There are so many factors, even within the exact same tyre size, brand and and line of tyre. If you maintain a perfect tyre pressure, W/A and rotation schedule. The exact same spec car, loading and driven exactly the same etc etc. 1, Are the tyres an OE spec usually innocuously mark in some way (a star for example) or just a production model? Usually makes a significant difference in every way. Feel, performance and wear. 2, What is their country of manufacture? You may not know it, but just like cars. The same tyre can be made in several countries. Each country has their own supplier or raw materials often resulting in noticeable (if driven back to back) variance in rubber composition = grip in wet and dry, wear, shore rating and rate of change due to temperature etc etc. Even 2 tyres out of the same factory will have variances! Ever seen a race team on great pace swap out one set of tyres for a new set of exactly the same tyre (usually the same batch in high end racing) only to drop completely off the pace. These are the things tyre manufacturers spend billions on. The lesser known the tyre = how much do you think they put into the initial tyre development. Let alone uniformity of product across countries?

You crack me up :)

Nice

How about increasing tyre width by one size (ie 215 becomes 225) slightly wider to protect mags and slightly higher - less chance of scraping and slightly more rolling radius.🤔 I believe that one increment change is legal.

I am on my 5th set of Bridgestone Serenity Plus tires on my 2019 Camry. I get between 80.000 and 95,000kms and I keep my tire pressure at 40psi to protect the edges of the tire

I’ve had my 2003 MX-5 for 19 years, and have replaced them every 6 years, with at least half the tread left, as I’ve only done 120,000 km, so that’s one set every 40,000km, but I won’t run my car on tyres over 6 years old (plus whatever time they lay fallow between manufacturer and install). 20% over inflated, regularly rotated, and tyre pressure regularly checked. I don’t accelerate, brake, or corner hard.

Third set of tyres for a 2014 Yaris that's done 230K - 110K each, for first two sets that were run at car manufacturer recommended cold pressure and rotated every 10k.

I've heard the camber of the road is the main cause of the left tyre scrubbing out. Take your hands off the wheel for a sec and the vehicle usually veers left. So, we're constantly turning a little to the right, even on straight roads.

I bought my Hyundai i30 N-Line through John's company Georgie about 13 months ago. I just replaced the factory Michelin Pilot Sport 4s at it's 60,000km service earlier this week. I do 188km per day, round trip, driving to and from my job. I always run the pressures at 39 - 40psi. I've never heard anyone say 25k is a good expiry rate for tyres. 50k is a much more common expectation from both my personal experience and those experiences of friends and family. I live in a rural area though, so logic tells me that long distance travel at 100kmh is going to be less destructive to tyres than tearing about cities in stop start traffic and roundabout surfing through suburbs.

In the early 2000s I put a set of higher spec Dunlop tires on my Corolla which was primarily used for 50k motorway commute. Rotated every 10k and checked pressures monthly. Kept pressures 3 or 4 lb above recommendation. These tires lasted 90k+. Mentioned this on a now defunct motoring column and was called a bullshitting something! But them’s the facts.

I got wildly varying life out of my tyres, but I usually don't care about which online seller I get them from. Sometimes I gotten old stock and rubber quality is not always the same. Best set lasted 10 years worst 2.5. Don't drive much so usually an aging issue.

Tyre wear is/canbe model specific . Some vehicles like being at one end of the wheel align specification some at the opposite end . Dealers never say this .

Here is the US, Michelin Defenders are known for having some of the longest treadlife of any tires. Warrantied to 80k miles.

I had a pickup truck which I fitted Michelin "X" snow n mud tires. The first set I checked tire pressures every month and wheel alignment every 12 months. This set I got 80.000 k.m life. Second set I did non of the above and got 40.000 k m. Disclaimer; I did no lockups or burnouts.

15k imperial miles on a set of tires in a compact car? That's insane! Are we using uhp summers?

John recommends tyre pressures 20% over the placard rating? Did I get that correct?

I think you should look at how long tyres on new cars last compared to ones bought at a tyre dealership. I am in the industry and store bought tyres last 50-100% longer then manufacturer factory fitted tyres do.

small rolling circumfernce on oem suziki tyres means compared to a touring 4x4 on 33" tyres, i bet that little suziki wheel will be doing almost 2.5x rpm of the 4x4. So if suzuki got 25000km, x 2.5 = 60'ish thousand km on the touring 4x4, in the ball park? maybe the suzuki wheel is doing 3xrpm of a touring 4x4 getting 80-120k km out of a set of tyres

BFG AT's currently on 55,000kms. Tread still good. Hoping to get 70-80,000kms from them

I feel like anything under 100000km is low. I got 177609km on my last set. I have 450514km on the odometer and I am on my third set of tyres

Are Aussie roads made of sandpaper or something? Tires here in the US are generally expected to last 50,000 miles or more and come with guarantees to that affect.

That seems pretty low to me, ESC etc might be an issue on wet and or twisty roads, but cant really see it activating much during highway driving. And given the mileage mentioned, I reckon highway driving would be a safe bet.If it was a sport with sticky tyres, that might explain it, but for a run of the mill model, that is dreadful. Mate had an 02 Toyota Echo, can't recall if it had 13s or 14s, but I do recall that he would get one hundred thousand kms out of a set of tyres, They had another 5k in them at that point before they became unroadworthy, but, thats the point he would change them at. Had the car for around three hundred and twenty five thousand kilometres and put three sets of tyres on it. Just on Echo and Yaris, Great little cars if you want something easy on fuel that just keeps going. I was in the dismantling industry and we really only sold accident replacement parts on them, Engines lasted a long time, Manual transmissions were a little weak, Mate sold his car due to the M/T seizing at 325ks, it had been whining since 100ks.. We sold a few gearboxes, but not a whole lot, I can recall a security car owner that came in for an engine as his was still running fine, but he felt that it was good preventative maintenance to replace it, as it had well over one million km on it.... Almost 120Y levels of cockroachness in those little cars... They were built old time Toyota Tough, to my mind, one of the best things Toyota ever made.. (My first rule for a good car, it has to start every morning and bring you home every night, I feel sure others will tell me how wrong I am.... )

I used to get 5k from p zeros a few years back. Very grippy once heated up

As you said, 20k is a good minimum. especially for performance tyres, cheaper or longer lasting tyres will not handle as well comparatively. if i get 20k out of my Re003s im cheering, because i know ever km of that is performance i can trust.

I’ve been getting about 50,000 km of mostly city driving on mine. 20k seems a bit low.

My mates FG XR6 only got 30,000km from my memory. That being said, whilst he doesn’t do burnouts and shit, he isn’t the most sensible driver sometimes. He also had low profile Falken tyres.

Has Australia adopted the travesty of asphalt paving (chip/seal) that wears out tires like a belt sander? In my Crown Victoria I get 60k miles. My motorcycles average 5k miles.

My daily drive is rolling on 295/45 R20 tyres. On average they last 35k km. That is one years driving. Tyre pressure done monthly and rotated every 5k km. And it's not a performance car. It's an old rodeo ute that carries over a ton ( metric tonne) of tools and equipment. And mainly high speed long distance country driving. My safety and vehicle handling is paramount over cost.

Made me think of the Proclaimers I'm Gonna Be (500 Miles) lol

Last set of tyres on our car was 70000 on the rear and 55000 km on the front but on previous cars I’ve had as low as 30000 per set

I typically get 75,000km out of Goodyear Assurance all season tires on my 2002 Toyota Highlander.

74000 miles on an old Citroen AX back in the 00’s. 20,000 km seems a bit shite to me, 40000km on the only tyres I’ve changed in Aus.

Had a rear set of Bridgestone Potenza RE003 on my old Subaru BRZ last about 8000 kms, so they were soft as cheese, although that car was driven hard for most of them.

I have a HSV VF GTS with 586 KW at the rear wheels. For some reason the rear tyres, no matter what the brand, seem to not last for very long.

Love your stuff, especially since you have a great sense of humour and a Physics degree. Yet this one confuses me - 20,000 km for a set of tires is ok?! That is far too low in my experience. I have been driving 1,500 to 2,500 km a month for 34 years. I’d say I’m an average driver - some spirited trips, some relaxing ones, most in between. With regular rotation and pressure checks, even performance tires usually last me 40,000 km (no track days or burnouts, of course). So why suggest 20,000 km is acceptable? One more thing - I live in central Canada, which is hell on tires (though I do use dedicated winter tires and summer tires).

My ST rides on Dunlop Wintermaxx from Nov. to April. They’re 10 years old now, as is the car. Guess I’ll change them out for new next winter even though they still have about half the tread left. The dear wife will weep bitter tears but once per decade can’t be too bad.

A hard man in a reasonably priced car.

Should do a video on tire balance. Balance machines are so high tech now that techs can't use them properly !!

Has anyone else noticed that the tyres that came with your new motah seem to last longer than subsequent sets, even if you buy the very same tyres? Is it just me? Oh and the OEM rubber on me 2014 X-trail FWD carted me around for 86K. I'm not sure if I should be proud about that or not.

love the t shirt, i had a rocket called the Veloci Raptor put it up to 6000 feet.

i get 3 to 4 fully sik skid's from my commy ute tires

Damn you must driver hard. 20k for a set and I'd have heart failure ;) (yeah ok I used to go through tyres to in my younger days). Had a VE SV6 sports wagon with about 220k on the clock on its third set of tyres.(what ever the factory tyres were, yeah ok I kept an eye on wear and adjusted pressure to suit). The VT with what re92? did even better, though granted didnt have the same grip.

Got 35 000 km out of my Nokia summer tires. Would do easily another summer. Car: e-golf 2018, pressure 3 bar. 😊

RE: Walking across a bridge from Singapore to India. You would need to make sure said bridge steered away from North Sentinel Island. I hear the natives there are unfriendly. Just ask the late John Allen Chau.

I'd say if you get 65-70,000 kms out of a set of tyres, you are going well. Tyres get old and the rubber hardens, so people who say they get 80,000+ kms are generally driving unsafe tyres.

Depends on the roads you drive on and the manner in which you drive for any given tyre. Also whether tyres are rotated (no, not the going round and round way) and if not whether the car is front or rear wheel drive. I dont see why anyone should not be able to 60-70K KM out of decent tyres on good roads and sensible driving. I got 62K Km from the fronts and still have another 30K Km left in the rears.

17000km on Bridgestone potenzas. I do about 8-10000km a year. Onto my second set

I've been running a couple of Baleno-sized FWD cars for the past 20-odd years, both of which have always been shod with decent brand name tyres (e.g. Bridgestone, Continental etc). Ther worst performing set of tyres lasted about 40,000km. Usually get around 50,000km or so. The secret? Rotating the tyres every 10,000km.

just got to 95000km on a set of BFG KO2s on the Pajero. Better than my coopers - only got 80000 out of them.

You can drive 100,000 km on a set of tires in a straight line, or maybe 50,000 km in thick traffic, stop/start cornering every day of every week.