UPDATE 1 : at 14:30 I used the wrong formula. It should be Capacity=Current/C-rate -> 250A/0.2C=1,250Ah. UPDATE 2: at 6:40 you should fuse every cable with a 200A fuse instead of one 350A fuse. My Best-Selling book: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified Cables: amzn.to/3XbLfhn 12V 100Ah Battery: amzn.to/3MgFdWw 12V 200Ah Battery: amzn.to/3SYwtYI MRBF fuse holder: amzn.to/3X0bmqc MRBF fuse: amzn.to/4dXFNV5 300A busbar: amzn.to/4dR4Zwj MEGA fuse: amzn.to/3AyrYht
I think there is still something wrong with calcs: 250A is the invtr max amps, C rate applies to batt amps not inverter amps: batt amps is 20A. So is it Inverter amps/C rate, or batt amps/C rate?
BTW, I am using 4- 6vdc Fullriver AGM batteries with a GoPower 3000W inverter. I installed the new AGM's yesterday, but was trying to chk, beforehand, if 4 batts would work with the 3000W inverter.
Been waiting patiently and it arrived today! What an amazing book(.) You've managed to put together a presentation of solar that (so far, from what I've read) is the best explanation on paper that I've experienced, and I've read through alot of books. Well worth the money. People contemplating solar will find this book 99% of the make it happen. Love it. 🫵👍👊
Nick, I am late watching this. I learned quite a bit from you in this video. Thank You. You explained things in a very easy to understand video. I have watched hundreds of hours of videos. I don't remember seeing it explained in this manner. Thank You again. I have subscribed. I'll go back and watch your other videos.
RENOGY 3000 Watt Inverter is a Sour Purchase and Collects Dust here now, 4 RENOGY 200ah AGM Batteries barely Feeds It what It Needs with 4/0 Premium Wire and 300amp Buss Bars - I see Myself Selling It Soon and have opted for 24 Volt Victron Energy Inverters and Lithium Batteries now and in the Future.
I've been running the RENOGY 3000w inverter with 4x100ah RENOGY batteries in my 4x4 ute for over 2 years. When it's parked up at home it runs all refrigeration and computers in the house 24/7 and occasionally more when the suns out. I haven't had any issues with their gear. The batteries get charged via 2.6Kw of solar panels on the shed roof via Victron controllers. The batteries and inverter are wired much as Nick showed except the MRBF fuses are 100amp as with 4 batteries feeding a 3000w inverter they are never going to see 100amp drawn from a single battery. People wonder why some choose to stick with 12v particularly with recreational vehicles. The answer is simple. It's a pain in the backside trying to deploy enough solar panels out in the field with high enough VOC to charge a 24 or 48V battery system. Connecting multiple panels in series is impractical when camping. Then there is the huge expense of 12v-48v DC-DC chargers to take alternator current from a 12v system. Typically such DC-DC chargers are 3x the price of a 12v version. Or the alternative option of fitting a 24-48v alternator if space can be found in the engine bay. Then there's all the 12v camping appliances that now need buck converters. The 4/0 cable is only needed between the inverter, fuse for it, and Buss Bars. That's not a huge expense that those that advocate 48v continually bring out in discussions when compared to the additional cost of dedicated 48v gear and buck converters etc.
@@erroneouscode 4 RENOGY 200AH AGM Batteries was tried here with 1200 Watts of Solar and saw 50% Depth of Discharge way too often to Leave IT commissioned here on The Ranch
@@1GREATDANE Fair enough. But curious what made you even consider using AGM these days, especially with a 3000w inverter? What did you find wrong with the inverter?
@@erroneouscodeIt was Hungry and AGM Batteries are Best above 50% DOD and a Whole Ranch Kitchen was more than It could Handle at Night, TV and Internet Router, and few lights and Well Pump. Going 24 Volt I was able to Double My Solar Array and using 4 - 280ah CHINS LiPo4 with 200ah BMS paired up in 24 Volt Packs Works well with Victron Battery Balancers and Buss Bars and Correctly Fuses and 4/0 Cables to WZRELB 24 Volt 3000 Watt Inverter.
Really awesome instructional videos . . . thank you! As a newbie to solar generated power, the 48v system you diagrammed in the video is very appealing. However, I am wondering if you might either, 1: add an addendum video on how to calculate needed solar panels to charge the EG4 battery, or 2: simply respond with the number needed and the calculation used to arrive at the required number. Thanks and keep up the great work!
thank you very much for taking time and answering that question. for the pure Factor you took time to answers questions I have just subbed into your Channel
@@cleversolarpower My trailer is already wired with 12-volt solar, It has 1 100-watt panel and 1 75-ah lead acid battery. I am removing the lead acid and installing 2 lithium LI Time 100ah batteries and adding 2 more 100-watt panels. The travel trailer is only 16 feet long, so to go to 48v seems like more money and not necessary.
With 4 100Ah 100A lifepo4 batteries and my 3000w 24v inverter I can use an electric oven with 2 cooking plates and electric oven with all 3 at full power at same time. And I can keep it running like that until the batteries is empty which will take 1,5 to 2 hours as I do not know the exact power usage of the electric oven. LifePo4 is the way to go for high power usage.
@a64738 how do you connect your battery bank reason being I have 4x12v 100ah lithium batteries and a 3000w 24v inverter.So I wondering if you would like to explain how you did it.
@@claver99you have to connect all your batteries to each other…you have solar panels and a controller unit too?? Yeah they make tiny cables to connect the batteries to each other
Inverters also have a surge capacity, and if your batteries and wiring are inadequate you won't get the promised surge capacity. I also would not plan to run the batteries at their maximum amperage. I recommend a 25% margin for every battery added in parallel. (75% of each means 2 can do 150% of one, 3 can do 225% of one, etc)
If your inverter has surge capacity and your battery(s) also can handle the surge, you would blow your fuse if you use the fuse size specified in the video. Unfortunately, as good as the video is, no mention was made of this very real issue.
No, wires can handle the surge capacity for a few seconds. While they are not sized for the surge it is no problem for them to handle a surge of a pump. If factories had to size their cables to the surge current then it would be much more expensive. It's not done this way. I worked as electrician a in a factory.
No, there is a difference between surge capacity of a fuse and the short circuit current of a fuse. Mega fuses can handle many times their rated current for a few seconds. This is called the time-current curve. They are called slow blow fuses, used for starting inductive loads. You also have fast acting fuses for circuitry.
nice, but i miss time in the ecuation... most uses are solar, so they will need an 8h buffer for the night, which means more batteries, also account for bad weather as in fog days, where batteries do not replenish.
What I discovered is to supply enough current it is good to use the battery in parallel. The current rating using lifepo4 battery is greater than the actual available current rating. My battery is rated at 200 amps BMS but it can only provide 150 amps continuous. By placing equal battery in parallel The current available will be 300 amps.
So you actually have a 150A BMS which allows for a short term "peak current" of 200A. The BMS is rated at continuous current. Anything higher, like peak current or other short term current specification is just there because marketing likes bigger numbers.
The higher the input voltage on your unit the better. I run 48vdc input on my eg6. I also have 4 480w 48v solar panels on the roof. Built my own 48vlto batteries with 200amp bms. My batts are 245ah each. I even built a buzzer for when my voltage gets down 11.9 volts. This way i never really completely drain my lto. It's in my 8x12 portable shop trailer. This sits on top of my old champion 4550 gen that's been converted to run on propane. Mind you it's need a couple more batteries. Especially when I run the rooftop ac. Lights, cordless tool chargers and even my pancake compressor has no issues keeping up. Im building a capacitor bank to install and try out on the bigger loads to see if will help out.
Yes, increasing the voltage of the battery bank has many advantages. I made a video about 12V,24V or 48V. Increasing the voltage of the solar panels as well as it reduces voltage drop over long distances (up to max input voltage of the mppt).
The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire, which it may not do with two feed wires. If one wire gets a loose connection, gets damaged, etc, then all the current will go through your second wire. Since the 350A fuse will not blow, the 300A going through one 205A rated wire will cause excessive heat and potentially fire. Your two feed wires from the bus bar to the inverter should each have a fuse, say 180A, to protect that single wire.
Below Update 2, you state we could use 200 a. fuse in lieu of 350 a. single fuse at the two parallel conductors. So use 200 a. fuse for each separate wire or could I use a 200 a. two pole conduct with both wires connected? This parallel conductors helps so wire is smaller and easier to work with. A 200 amp two pole / phase breaker could also be used for both wires connected to (12 v. DC)? I think I have watched all of oyur videos more than once. They are so educational, informative & easy to follow!!! Thanks for all you have done and continue to do for us off griders! The book helps a lot too! Mike
I installed a 24v (8 x eve 280k blocks) with fcao 3000 watt inverter. I go up to 2500watt, never Max out your system. Keep the overhead. The c rate of my battery is 0.5C meaning i can draw half of the 280 amps continuously which is 140 amps at 24 volt. The c rate is specified by the manufacturer. Not by RU-vidrs.
Standard charge/discharge for LF280K is 0.5C, Continuous charge/discharge is 1C, pulse charge/discharge is 2C. Check the datasheet for your cells. Also depends on the BMS you have.
I see what you're saying and how it looks like it all adds up but I have been running a 200 amp hour battery Bank lithium and a 3000 watt pure sine inverter to run my induction cookware my induction oven and every other appliance and have never had an issue. I even run an air conditioner that is an indoor one for my RV that vents out the window and it runs that fine too.
You can even use a 5000W inverter on a 12V battery, but that doesn't mean it's good design choices. I'm making people aware that there are better design options.
2 x 135ah in parallel on my 3000w inverter works well, even better now i have 000awg 400amp cable from battery bank to inverter, the old 100amp cable would warm up and inverter beep when running heat gun on high
The voltage drop over the small cable was likely too high for the current, so resistance increases = heat. The inverter would have sensed the lower voltage and turned off. All inverters have a min-max voltage range they operate on.
I have the same 3000w 12v renogy inverter but i am limited to the 3 AC outlets which are Max 1800w(or 120v 15A) combined i think. I would need to use the hardwire output with at least 12awg cable to achieve the full 3000W.
The problem is that all transformers are symmetrical, which means you can only have a maximum theoretical efficiency of 100% where the maximum output is equal to input power minus losses. However, with an asymmetrical design, it is theoretically possible to have more output power than what you put into it. This isn’t ‘free energy’ but good design, as all energy for everything, including the grid comes from the zero-point vacuum. Without that energy from the vacuum, there would be no electrons and no protons and no neutrons. They would simply stop spinning and cease to exist. That fact that electrons never lose their charge and never stop spinning, is proof that vacuum energy exists.
Great video - Thanks. Question: can you recommend a solar controller? I have (3) 12/100V batteries in parallel, as you outlined in the video. and (2) 400 watt pannels. What controller would you recommend?
He did leave one thing out in my battery manual. For parallel the batteries are also cross connected as well as having a cable to the bus bar. Why I could only speculate, but I expect there is a reason for it.
Hello Nick, this channel has great videos thanks. I have a question please. When you size battery/solar panel & charge time what happens if the load is on & used when the battery is being charged? I thought calculations are based on 'no load' conditions but with an off-grid system, it is used even when the battery is being charged. Can you please explain how using the load will or will not impact the charge time. I appreciate your response please.
If you have 100W coming in from solar, and you have a 200W load, then 100W will be coming from the battery. In off-grid design we do not calculate it that way. We have total daily power going in the battery and total daily power going out of the battery, then with 3 days of autonomy. Meaning that the battery has to last for three days without any power coming in.
It's interesting that this video popped up now, I'm with 5 other people dealing with hurricane Helene, after a few days, 1 of the guys who doesn't understand ANYTHING about electricity went out and bought a 3000w inverter from tractor supply. His reasoning: it was expensive, so it must be good. He had 1 old 24v lead acid battery, it worked for a few minutes to run a TV, but then the battery ran out so he thought the inverter was bad, he returned the inverter and spent nearly 30 minutes complaining the second inverter was bad also. I had to stop him and attempt to explain basic electrical theory
Indeed, bigger isn't always better. Great case study, just because they make such an inverter doesn't mean you should buy them. Then inverter should support the load.
Not that it changes your calculation much (+6.25%), but I would have used 12 volts instead of 12.8 volts because a LiFePO battery can produce lots of power at 12 volts (3v/cell) for quite a long time before it knees over and dies. This increases the maximum current from 260 amps to 278 amps, but you have enough margin in your wire and fuse selection to accommodate this.
I would use 12V (fully discharged) as the nominal battery voltage - you may want to run the inverter until that voltage is reached. So the power is greater or equal to 1200W per battery.
Right, to supply the output power, the input current will go up as the charge level voltage goes down. It is good design to size input wires based on that higher current draw when charge is low.
Hi thanks for sorting my issues for working out how to run my Renogy 3000w inverter with all the wires,Can you help me with how to Power the Batteries, I have a 200w solar panel that works great through the day as long as it is bright enough. I need to know how to charge the batteries to keep them from going below the 12v and stopping the inverter from shutting off . Thanks Gary.
I have made a video on sizing the charge controller. I also recommend checking out my video about sizing a solar system. That will help you choosing the right amount of solar panels.
Usually 1. But it depends on the BMS. Most BMS have 100A rating. In case of 12V 100Ah, this is one c. But if you have 12v 200Ah, then with a 100A BMS, you can still draw 100A max. Some companies have larger battery bmses called plus.
I have LiFePO4 12.8V 200Ah Plus batteries. Would I still require two 300A busbars, or would something larger be required? Thanks a bunch and great video!!
Is it not the load is the one that dictates the power needed? If the Load is a 700W Microwave, then a 100AH, 12v battery is sufficient. If your load will require 3K Watts, yes, then more batteries are needed like you stated.
Thanks for the video! Just one question @cleversolarpower, I have a 280AH battery with a power of 3584Wh and a maximum discharging current of 200A. Does this mean I should have another battery installed if I want to run the renogy 3000W invertor (because of the maximum discharging current) or will one battery be enough (because of the battery power)?
3000W/0.9=3.333W max draw from the batteries. 3.333W/12V=277A Your battery BMS will shut down when you reach a current higher than 200A if there is no surge capacity on the BMS.
There is one myth about 24v and 48v systems.. The cost of wiring is offset by the need to buy 2-4 batteries. Then you need a 24v-48v transformer to reduce the voltage to 12v for 12v appliances. Not to mention the extra cost for the inverter and batteries. So you saved nothing... So unless you are using 120v or 240v only. You should add that into the formula and use chart.
Not really. First you have to do a load analysis. That will give you a certain amount of Wh of battery you need. From there you decide the voltage of the battery. For example, you need 10kWh of battery. You can either use 8x 12V 100Ah batteries for a 12V system, 4x 24V 100Ah batteries, or 2x 48V 100Ah batteries. So it won't be more expensive because you need to meet your required Wh of energy. after knowing the required Wh, you decide the voltage. If you are winging it like your example, then yes, you need to add more batteries in series and it will be more expensive. Point is that using a proper load analysis, the voltage doesn't matter because you have to reach your required Wh, be it 12V, 24V, or 48V.
@@cleversolarpower I get that. But I'm running into these 24v-48v systems in an RV with only 800 watts of solar or less. They have no idea they created a power loss effeminacy to 79%. As they have to install a 12v transformer back down to 12v. This is counter productive. And it adds more cost to the system. Why I said. Unless you're producing huge amounts of Solar above 2k+ watts. You're just spinning your wheels. As the wire cost savings vanished. Not to mention higher voltage of 150v charge controllers for larger series arrays. This cost adds up if you're in an RV. So if you're in an RV with 1k solar or less. Just use 12v systems. You will pay more for some wire. But the system is simple to maintain, upgrade and repair. As 12v systems are everywhere, Cost less and more choices. Not to mention 12v appliance are a dime a dozen..
Wow great video. Had me baffled most of the time. Not done any of this stuff before. How can I get the chart for cable sizes please. I have 2 48 volt lifelong batteries. They were on a pallet truck. I want to use these on a solar system. Any words of advice. Would be much appreciated. Thanks Martyn
I have linked the cables in the description. You can find the table in the product images of the linked cable. These are manufacture specific, so do not use these for other cables.
Thank you for the careful explanation. I have just subbed, because my Physics degree is nearly half a century old now. Can I ask you too questions ? 1) I have a 3000 W invertor to power a washing machine on my boat. It is fed by two 115 Amp/hr Deep Cycle lead acid batteries. I only run the washing machine when the engine is running so that the alternator takes up the load. Is this reasonable ? 2) Would it be worth installing a much smaller invertor to supply low power items like laptops to reduce the efficiency loss when running small load items? Many thanks.
1) yes, that's a good solution to the large current draw of a washing machine. Otherwise your batteries will degrade fast. 2) The difference would be minimal, so no need to add necessary costs.
Really appreciate your explaining how all this works. However, I have one question. In your example, you are assuming the inverter is drawing 325A of current from the batteries including the 25% safety margin. Yet the link you provided for the bus bar is for one rated for only 300A max. Is this an issue or is this somehow considered sufficient. Can you explain why this is ok?
I'm thinking about building a 4s3p LiFePO4 battery with 25Ah cells. These are Topband Prismatic cells and have a 3C continuous discharge rating, 5C - 10 second rating.... This would make a 12.8V 75Ah battery with a max continuous discharge of 225A. This would give a max discharge of 2880Watts. I am hoping maybe to use it with a 2000W inverter. These cells were originally designed for a electric forklift. Does that C rating seem plausible?
I recommend getting he regular 280Ah 3.2V cells. I recently got a quote for $45/piece. 1C with this cell is 280A. I don't recommend having cells in parallel because it wont get balanced properly. The C-rating can be plausible, however i don't know because you didn't tell me the name of it.
Hi, I'm still very new at this. I undrstand (I think) how to calculate the batteries and wire needed if I know the rating of the inverter. But what inverter do I need to run a 1500 watt 120vac load from sundown to sun-up?
1500W/0.9=1666W at inverter input * 8 hours = 13,333Wh per day. Off grid design says 3 days of autonomy, 13,333Wh*3days=40,000Wh or 40kwh battery = 8 server racks (48V). Recharge the battery in one day: 40,000Wh/3 sunhours on average = 13,333W of solar panels. cost of batteries: $10k+ $6.6k solar = $16.6k for batteries and solar add an EG4 off grid inverter 6000XP ($1400) + additional charge controller $500. so expect to pay $20k for this.
Thanks for the video. At 9:45 you mention that each battery should be fused before it's connection to the bus bar. I have a victron MPII 3KVA (2400w) 48v inverter with 2x 5kw 100Ah batteries in parallel, using 50mm2 cable. Currently not using a bus bar, but instead connecting from the positive of the top (first) battery and the negative of the bottom (last) battery to a dual pole 125a NH gBat fuse (both the position and negative cables) which then connects to the inverter. I know this isn't optimal in comparison to your examole of using a bus bar, such as the lynx power in. But my question is this: Must I install a 125a fuse from each battery to the bus bar? As you said that this prevents a current shift in the event of one of them failing. Then, install another 250a fuse after the bus bar (between it and the inverter) accounting for the 100ah from each battery x2 + 25% safety?
I don't think it's required by code, but it's something I would add. In your case I would suggest using an MRBF fuse on the terminal of each battery. They are quick to install.
@@cleversolarpowerI watched your section about the MRBF fuses in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OmYYdlU5qdA.htmlsi=hRJwc4ROpT1yb7KB. However you state that they should not be used in a 48V system which mine is
@@SomeCrazyVids The Icc (short circuit current capacity) of an MRBF is 2000A @48V. It should not be used in high current systems as a main fuse. But since you will fuse every battery separate, the ICC will be limited to 100Ah*10=1,000A Icc. Which the MRBF fuse can handle. It could even handle both of your batteries because they will have: 2x100Ah*10=2,000A short circuit current. But that would be on the edge. Hope this makes it clear.
Yes. When dealing with batteries with high current capacity, it becomes important safety precaution to use a fuse on each wire. Would you rather use a $10 fuse on each wire or have a fire?
You got things switched up. It's not volts it's capacity or amp hour. You can add different capacities in parallel. I have made a video about it as well.
I have a 6000W inverter. I currently only have 4 batteries (12.8V / 100Ah). I intend to connect them in a 2S2P configuration so that I have a 24V 200Ah battery bank. If I understand the math correctly, that will not supply 6000W of power (I think it's closer to 5120) but is there any downside to connecting the battery bank with that configuration to the inverter aside from the fact that it can't fully supply the 6667W that would be ideal? (Really great video by the way. Very clear and easy to follow. You earned a new sub.)
No problem. If you pull exactly 6000W, the BMS will possibly turn off. But no problem if you keep under 5120W. Some BMS'es have surge capacity, so you could possibly reach 6667W. Thats why you have to size your cables according to 6667W @ 24V.
I have a small trailer already equipped with one 100-watt solar panel and one 75-ah lead acid. I am replacing the battery with 2 100ah lithium and 2 more solar panels. Is it worth going to 24 volts as cable runs are very short.
depends on the load you want to run. If you have a small load, tick with 12V, if the load is larger use 24 or 48V. Checkout my video about 12,24 or 48V battery systems.
How can I tell the input voltage of my Inverter (chinese Suyeego 2000w). The instructions say 12/24, but I somehow doubt it? Currently runs off 12 battery but would prefer 24v, would it work?
Most inverters will run off of 12 or 24 volts the higher end inverters will run off of 48 volts be sure that you use a charge controller that can accommodate the input
So the question is you're saying, 2 batteries will give you 3000 W. How many amp hours does it give you? So does it will that allow the battery to run for 12 hours or 4 hours or 6 hours? You don't know how many batteries do you need to run for 48 hours steady with the 3000 What load?
2 12V 100Ah batteries in parallel will give you 200Ah. An inverter doesn't give you Ah though. I have made videos about how to calculate battery runtime, check them out on my channel.
300Wx0.15 is not correct. To calculate waste heat, you start with the input power not the output power. 352.9Wx0.15=52.9W waste heat. 352.9 input minus 52.9W waste = 300W output.
3000W/24V=125A. You need two 12V 100Ah in series with a 100A BMS each. But i don't recommend having batteries in series. So buy two 24V 100Ah batteries and wire them in parallel.
I hooked up my Renogy 3000W to (3) 12 LiFePO4 batteries. With everything turned off I closed my garage and walked away. The next day while outside I could here a beeping sound coming from my garage. I opened the garage door and the Renogy 3000W was beeping with a red light blinking. My batteries were all well above 12V and my solar system was performing optimally. I read the manual to troubleshoot but could find no explanation for the audio alarm and red light. I disconnected the 3000W and never hooked it up again.
What is the source of wire current draw rating? Also, with the two wire system, what happens if one of the wires has an issue and is not able to handle the intended load? As an extreme example, let's say it was not properly crimped and was disconnected (or someone forgot to hook it up when servicing the system).
The current ratings of the cables can be found on the sellers page which i have linked in the description. Ideally you will have to fuse every wire separately.
@@cleversolarpower Thank you for the information. Something to keep in mind that the vendor's ampacity numbers are far greater the US NEC (National Electrical Code). Perhaps there are standards for industrial cabling that allow this. The only claim this amazon maker states is SAE J1127, but the cables do not state a J1127 insulation type and there are no markings stamped on the cable shown in the picture. Also keep in mind J1127 seems to be for vehicle starter battery cables and not for sustained amperage in uses like an inverter. Starter battery use case is very short duration, high amperage vs inverter use case of high amperage for extended times. If I had to guess this is welding cable and while the description claims J1127 it's not backed up in anyway by evidence. Also the max amp numbers seem grossly overstated. The only reference I could find for max amps is on the mcmaster-carr site for J1127 cables. I do not have access to the standard itself as it costs $$. While these welding cable may work for the application, they seem non-conforming to any standards so they are unknowns without more data and proof of certification. These feel like rebranded imported cables being sold by a US company. I did look at manufacturers website and no additional info found.
I assume you mean alternator. An alternator should only deliver 30-50% of its rated current. So probably 30-50A. It's best to drive and not stationary run it because the moving air will cool the alternator. Checkout my video about dc to dc charging and alternator charging.
car stereo amp kits have 00 cables with very fine cpper wires and fuse holders and crimp on connectors but lead acid batteries have one advantage is they can handle heat and cold l ion can't a lot of off grid people have their battery bank outside so heat and cold is a factor .
I've got this exact inverter. Should have researched by better / seen this before buying. Running off two 130 leasure batteries, and you get to microwave one meal before the low battery alarm sounds. Useless in a motorhome setting 😢
Indeed, something i forgot to mention. If a large load is placed on lead-acid batteries, the voltage will drop. The inverter will shut down because it thinks the batteries are empty. While in fact, the load is too large for the batteries.
With 4 100Ah 100A lifepo4 batteries and my 3000w 24v inverter I can use an electric oven with 2 cooking plates and electric oven with all 3 at full power at same time. And I can keep it running like that until the batteries is empty which will take 1,5 to 2 hours as I do not know the exact power usage of the electric oven. LifePo4 is the way to go for high power usage.
@@a64738 Agreed. 24v is better as the cable gauge can be reduced. Lithium can be run flat, unlike lead acid, but the price! Looking at a 12v 280ah lithium from eco-worthy for £500. I'll be selling the inverter and buying a 1000w. Hardly use it anyway, and mainly to charge laptops etc. My inexperienced thought was, 'if buying one, may as well have the extra watts just in case'.
3 lithos = 13 la 😮😢 Interesting. I have 2x 100Ah, each is currently on separate inverters. 1x has a 2kw inverter, the other a 400w. The 400w inverter I use for smaller stuff that doesn't cause it's fan to start running and it's just used more as backup and cellphone charging. The 2000w inverter is for everything, but I bought it to run my microwave, but I haven't run my fat wires yet nor am I ready to add my microwave in yet either! 😅 It's not easy to work on this stuff inside of a vehicle when you're already living in it completely.😢
If i have two 12.8V 150ah batteries which have a BMS of 120A (25.6V x 120A = 3072) is that enough for a CLAIMED 95% efficiency 3000W inverter (3000 / 0.95 = 3,158) ? Or is the given calculation given in this video critical. What problems might i have for not reaching the recommended 3,158W battery power, and being less than 100 watts short? I suspect it will be ok, but why not ask :-) Cheers.
Please help ... Did not know what i was doing ... so i will take the shame and start over. He seems to be saying 48v system is best so i will go with that. I think I can keep my 480w solar panels ... What big size 48v inverter to go with my two 300 (600 ah) Redodo batterys. THANKS
I recommend watching my video about 12V,24V or 48V battery systems. Advantages and disadvantages. With 480W of solar panels 12 or 24V is ok as well. Voltage also depends on the inverter size.
One of the biggest problems with the whole thing is me at nearly 80. I will watch the videos and maybe I can keep the 12v system and the 12v 3000w inverter and victron 100/50 charge controler. What started this search is why i can not get my new 600ah batt to full charge ..abs/float (14+) but i can only get them (13+). Do u have a video on (victron) settings. THANKS MÜCH
@@g-whiz286 Hard to say. A car alternator uses the battery to produce the magnetic field in the field coils. The regulator puts out a constant 14.5v. When your inverter kicks in there will be a voltage drop, your regulator will respond by increasing current to field coils to get voltage back to 14.5v.
You can use 1 12 0 battery and still use an inverter, but you can only use it for maybe 20 minutes, that's it. You gotta understand how many batteries you need to get 24 hours. You will need 24 batteries 241 hour. Batteries is all you're gonna get is 1 hour out of each battery and then they're completely dead. It doesn't matter how many batteries do you need to run? 4:24 hours on a 3000 W inverter, using a furnace 24 hours a day. How many batteries do d n you need
👍 Kindly direct me Sir. In order to respect the battery's C-rate using leadacide batteries. You said in your previous video that four 12v,100ah lead acide batteries should be connected in parallel to match a12v 1000w inverter. That is, 1000w ÷ 12v =83A & 4 x 100ah x 0.2c = 80A. My Question: I believe that the amount of current that's being pulled from the battery or batteries by an inverter should be dependent on the load that's being plugged in ~instead of the capacity of an inverter. Won't it be okay to use 12v 3000w inverter with 220ah leadacide battery and maintain loads that's not greater than 528w (while, 220ah x 0.2c x 12)?
Your theory about how much a lead acid battery can handle is incorrect. The reserve capacity on any battery is calculated on a 25 A load. As shown on the side of your battery. Not 20, so the minimum any lead acid battery can pull is 25 amps if it has a reserve capacity rating it must be able to deliver a min of 25 amps per the reserve capacity specification.
@@cleversolarpower Commonly referred to as RC, reserve capacity is the amount of time, in minutes, that a 12V battery can run before dropping to 10.5V. It is measured in reserve minutes. For example, if a battery has a reserve capacity of 150, that means it can supply 25 amps for 150 minutes before the voltage drops to 10.5V. A 25-amp load is used to calculate this, surely not 20 hours. Amp-hours is calculated at a 20-hour discharge rate, not RC. Go do some research or hell just ask AI if that's too hard.
If you don't know what Reserve capacity is, I'm not sure you should be making a video about batteries. It's one of the ratings that's on the side of almost every battery and in the one in your video. Maybe you should have a look. Maybe you should go get the battery Bible and read that a few times.
Your inverter used 3 batteries , my inverter I used 1 battery , you might used 240v - 50 , I used 110 v 60 , for safety you do on your ways I do on my ways just follow recommendation of electric needs, I'm a dump guy no school but I do my own safety , thank for share .
Its multiplied. 1.25 is a safety factor you should use every time when sizing wires. 2: this is a cable given by the manufacturer of the cable which i have linked in the description.
