Currently doing mine on my 2015 Escalade. Ordered my kit from Texas Speed. Everything is going smooth so far. Your videos were very informative. I also decided to do my oil pump, fuel pump etc.... Might as well while were in there. Thanks for the videos
I just replaced all lifters and cam shaft; pretty much everything that has to be replaced for a total of $3,500 of which $1,000 was labor and the rest was GM parts. I had previously gone to the local Chevy dealer who said "we will not do that repair because we can't guarantee positive results but we'll install a brand new 5.3 GM engine for 12k total" of course.. After getting referrals from friends and other locals, I connected with this awesome owner/mechanic one man shop in Nogales, Arizona, it has been two months and it runs like a "brand new" 09 Chevy Avalanche. BTW, I also ordered an AFM/DFM disabler made by Cytrobe from Amazon and I haven't looked back. Folks, shop for the cost of this repair, I know this may depend on what part of the country you're located but it's well worth it. Damn this AFM fiasco..breath new life to your GM 3.5, they are great engines. If you're in Arizona, I'll happily send you Carlos' way.
@@aprilgeneric8027 I can tell you on the older 5.3's with AFM if you run it with AFM disabled and then for some reason it gets unplugged or goes bad, you will likely end up with at minimum old grime getting knocked loose and plugging up that little filter under the oil pressure sensor. It's not a horrible job getting it out and cleaning or replacing it but it can take several drive cycles before it's done getting plugged up. The worst part is listening to the low oil pressure/stop engine chime when it gets plugged up even thought your engine still likely has good oil pressure...the sensor just doesn't read it that way because the filter is plugged below it. I would agree with you though, getting the AFM disabled permanently at the ECM or with a tuner is the best way to go.
@JasontheNativeTraveler they replaced one lifter at 30k miles, now at 120k they are replacing all lifters and cam for $7,700. '20 Sierra Elevation 5.3L
Got the lifter failure in multiple lifters in bank #1 with two push rods being bent. Although the GM parts are crap I changed my oil between 6k-7k miles so I'm a bit responsible due to not fully understanding how these GM engines consume oil. I'm on the path to either doing a DFM delete or fixing the issue and washing my hands. I have a 2019 chevy Silverado lt trail boss 5.3. Your videos are quite helpful so I appreciate your insight.
I feel your pain for sure. You probably already saw the video, but if not here is my walkthrough ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=g3Zj-__mlGt_bPnV
This is so sad. My 2000 tahoe with the 'dinosaur" small block 350 will never be sold. The 5.3 may make more power, but I could never deal with this. My respect to all of y'all going through this.
Super helpful! Thank you. Im planning this for my 2018 yukon. Its ok right now but its got 84k on it so… and like you said, when you’re that deep in the engine, you may as well replace some parts. 👍🏻 the kits from Texas Speed looks to be the way Im gonna go
This is so ridiculous to be having to deal with this on such low mileage and new overpriced vehicles. I got the same problem with my GMC Sierra and my brothers got the same problem with his Chevy Tahoe and both vehicles are under 50,000 miles.
@ihavethedocuments2580 Even with clean oil, the mechanical nature of the lifter expanding and collapsing will eventually cause a mushrooming effect. Over time the lifter will stay collapsed and be unable to expand without manipulation or need replacement.
Everyone who either has the dealer, favorite mechanic, or DIY... keep all receipts associated to the repairs. Thinking GM will lose a class action...and you will be able to get reimbursed for the costs. Having the dealer do the work is significate cost!! YIKES!! Thanks for sharing!! Merci
yep. Have that noise on my 2011 Caprice PPV. I'm gathering all the Parts now. A Band-aid is I'm running redline 10w-60 Full synthetic and a Purolator Boss Oil filter. Noise is totally gone and no misfires HOWEVER, I do believe the roller on the lifter is NOT running true on the cam. Doing Cam, lifters, oil pump, timing chain, water-pump, new hardened pushrods and all new rocker arms.
Thank you for sharing this video. Amazing presentation, in your spreadsheet, regarding the part numbers (where do you get them as dealerships are so reluctant to share this vital information because, as they told me, "we do not want you to go on the Internet and buy them"), and the actual cost of all of them. Very, but very useful in order for me to get a specific picture of all the parts involved and cost. Now, I am looking at the step-by-step video on how to replace them LOL.
Doing my 11 escalade right now not bad at all I recommend getting the fancy torque wrench with the angle on it. If your semi handy under the hood shouldn't be to bad. Ps you don't have to necessarily take the motor out I just removed the front end
I just finished and posted the full walkthrough with the engine still in the truck if you’re interested ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=Y1ZBrhp4THprLbuy
I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3. I dont have any problems and have an HP Tuner that I used to disable the DOD. I am looking at possibly doing the full physical delete this spring. If I do this job, I just can't put the old exhaust back on. I would have to do the rear main seal, too. I would want to replace everything while Im there. The truck has always had full synthetic oil changes ever 3k miles. The truck also has a trans cooler and oil cooler. So, hopefully, that keeps keeps the torque converter from getting cooked.
My 2015 regular lifter failed tore cam up same way 92,000 miles i do my own maintenance never missed oil change every 5000 miles mobile one. Had replaced cam and all the lifters since metal ran through the engine. Cost $5000. Had it fixed traded it in on a 2021 tundra GM trash.
Very tedious job, you have to be very fluent and have patience on doing this and correct with accuracy. I would of done the same also... since im in here i will change this which isnt a bad idea, especially when your in this deep, i wanted to buy a 2015 Yukon XL 6.2L with 89,000km on it, which is still low, but i know i want this AFM delete kit done but aince your video shows what to do and how to do it "PROPERLY" i think i may consider the Yukon and i have an edge on the sales to let him know this job will be $9000 so it will give me wiggle room as they go by dealership cost. Oh they want $45000 for the Yukon XL at the dealership Wish me luck cause if i get it for the right price ill be doing this also makes a great resale value too cause not only me but someone like me or yourself is doing research on the engines and probably heard the problems about this AFM/DOD issue. But having this done and recorded and documentation on it being done will may get them to buy it etc... but yeah if i get this SUV ill most likely do this to it. Last thing i want is a knocking engine or worst...
Yeah, I would also look through my playlist for the other things you will likely need. Suspension (costly to replace the Magneride), transmission harness, gps antenna, tail lights..it’s a lot of smaller things but it should all be considered Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles ru-vid.com/group/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr
I have 08 Silverado with amazingly 350k. Yes sir lifters are not at all happy.8gs to fix it. I'm to old unfortunately 73 and counting. No place to take it other to other then someone I can trust.
You have motivated me to do this myself. My only hesitation is I have 2015 suburban L83 engine, based on your list do all those parts fit in a l83 engine or is there certain part in your list that should be different for my type of engine. Cause I don’t know what to buy and it would suck to know in the middle of the process that those parts won’t fit. You got a new subscriber
To my knowledge all the parts are the same other than the head gaskets are different for the 5.3. I would watch my walkthrough videos and take notes on parts, then speak with Brian Tooley racing or your GM parts counter to verify the part numbers fit the 5.3L. If you have a question on a part I would be happy to see what I can see for it as well if you comment on the video (that’s the best way for me to see it). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=d7NI4Y-g8LOHTzun
I would say if not knowing what to replace is your biggest known fear, don’t build an engine. You will be faced with 20 unknown new fears. Like, what ring gap do i need to file my rings to? How scored are my piston skirts? Putting new rings, means you need to crosshatch the bores. Are my bores warped? Did metal go through the bearings? You know the cam bearings are worn so now i need a special tool to press those in. How do you even measure your bearing clearance anyways? more special tools. Then, are the bearings on back order? Do i need a hpfp shim? how do i measure that? Then you put it all back together and it has a tick. What is that sound? 😂. I say if you know the answer to all these then you’re ready to do it yourself. There’s no shame to having a pro do it right the first time.
This is a metal quality issue, not a dod issue, even the 4.8 without dod eats lifters, doing the delete is just like keeping the dod, it fixes the problem for now, but with crappy metal, will it happen again? from what I understand even the new 7.3 fords are having the issue, they use the same lifters, of course mopar has also had the issue, this started about 2006, before that no lifter issues, so what changed? obviously the one making these parts should be held accountable, 3 different manufacturers and they all have the same problems,
Great video. Just think you spent 2,700 total, and the job is done correctly. The stealership wants over 7K, and the person better hope the job is done right the first time.
It doesn't look like you've included the cost of re-programming the engine computer to disable DoD (which means programmatically deactivating all the triggers that would otherwise come up as DTC's - or Check Engine Lights - via the use of a special programming interface/tool). The tools alone (if going solo on the task) would be upwards of 600 bucks +. For whatever your "DoD Block Off" row is on your spreadsheet, I can't imagine we're talking about the same thing. Even the "credits" to make a lasting/correct programmatic change to the engine computer are well north of 200 bucks. But otherwise, my numbers (years ago) just about match up to yours. Good to know others have taken the deep-dive as well.
GM perfected the small block many years ago,problem was the engines last for ever and they were losing $ so now they have a perfect design with Shit parts.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
That is a big concern. In the teardown you will see other lifters have marks in them where the debris had got stuck on the other rollers. Hopefully, they have caught most of the debris and are being replaced. There is a lifter filter as well you will see removed in video 2, so investigation is important to see just how bad it was. There is always a risk of contamination and flushing the oil galleys would be best with a oil pump removal (engine needs to come out or at least lifted to drop the oil pan to get that far in. On the other hand, removing the cam, pushing a new cam in with assembly grease can push any left over debris out (you’ll want to clean and inspect the camshaft bearings but they can’t be removed with the engine in as well unless you also remove the ac condenser and grill). DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.html
I have heard from several pro sources this is due to the newer CEO at GM whom changed the suppliers from Mexican to Chinese. Saving money? No, not really.
I don’t know if you would know this, but I assume the delete process should be identical if you are doing this on a newer GM truck with DFM instead of AFM? Main difference would be 16 collapsible lifters instead of 8.
I believe the process is similar but I’ve heard some differences with the cam gear and it being harder to walk the chain off if trying to do it inside the vehicle without removing the engine
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethank you sir !! I rewatched the video and seen you did put the part number is the spreadsheet on screen ! lol sorry !!! I had that paused for about an hour going back and forth making sure I got the right parts!! Jw why not replace the rocker arms and springs ? Do I need too ? Anything you would do differently if you could do it all over again ? That darn water pump is near $600 now .. should I just put the old one back on ? Or is a ton of work to redo the water pump when she fails ? Sorry I got lots of questions. Just about to do this to my dream Escalade and want it done right !! Thank you again !
Was just told by the Chevrolet dealership that my 2015 yukon denali lifters are failing. Approximately 140k miles. Purchased with a 120k miles. Oil changes regularly. I just don't understand 😢😢
Unfortunately, it is all too common. It is a very big job calling for 34 hours and would be best to remove the engine from the truck. Lots of variables ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=nlA9-J_XHDjN-ipy
Thank you for a great video ! 2012 Suburban of mine just did the same sound as you shown in this video after a ''jiffylobotomy" oil change. A mechanic said I need a new engine, ~$12,000 on a blue book $10,000 vehicle. I drove it home with less sound . 6 days later I started it up, no sound !!! How could that be ??? I'm in Redondo Beach, State of Californication , getting it right up there by mechanics. Any recommendations ? Do you know anyone trustworthy around Redondo Beach CA ???
When bearings fail they can also quiet down as they heat or cool. Mine stayed out as a squeak that I figured may have been a belt or pulley but over time it will be constant
I know you said in your video that you did OE stock cam and you didn't delete the VVT was the main reason for not deleting the VVT because the replacement of the timing chain cover which would mean you would have to drop the oil pan or was there other reasons for not going stage 1 vs OE
I kept the VVT because it offers the best performance for low end torque on a stock cam. I believe when you go to larger stage cams it may require the VVT delete to keep valve to piston clearance. I didn’t go with a different cam just to keep the rest simple with valve springs and anything else
I removed them 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence, cleaned them up by hand without a razor blade, cleaned out the gunk from the direct injection and they seemed good enough to install. So far so good for a few weeks now. Others said they have had the same luck without having to have anything machined since it wasn’t a head gasket/warp
Some people have said they might swap the entire engine at that point to the L8T that doesn’t have dod, but you won’t get away from the direct injection issues or oil consumption. Otherwise you know from my parts list you can be about $2,500 to try swapping the cam and lifters yourself www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19433748/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0aS3BhA3EiwAKaD2ZeHI7w9W8ZJV26Euq-_yECqc9NvCMP7DDKg14qkFLWT-SWXYQZ2X7xoCbxIQAvD_BwE
@@justaskmike4602 I took a lot of time to clean the heads and block mating surfaces. My brother helped and we worked on it for about 3-4 weeks for 3-4 hours at a time but went slow to make the videos
I had 94,000 miles. It was a regular lifter that failed. I was also worried about the common dod lifter failure so I deleted it at the time Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cx4_-FGXCVE.html
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
Both the 5.3L and 6.2L for 2015 (2014+ Silverado)+ have active fuel management (AFM) aka DOD (displacement on demand). Some of the previous generation had it if it had flex fuel and not if it was straight gasoline I believe.
did you have any issues with the cam gear popping off?? mine just did after dod delete with you exact parts.... my vales are screwed... timing was perfect... the sprocket slipped and caused timing to jump !!!
Unfortunately nearly immediately… the nub appears much smaller than the original did you notice this ? Maybe I got a defective part? I see on Amazon one reviewer had this exact issue!!
Question. I have a good 5.3 2019 Silverado engine I currently have the engine off since I am changing the frame. Can I just swap the lifters to new non did lifters before they go bad ? And leave everything the same like cam and valley cover and just deactivate the did via tube ?
I would call Brian Tooley racing to ask about a parts build list with what you are wanting, but I understand you need a new camshaft that is the non-dod for their GM engines. If the engine is out, I would strongly recommend doing it all now with a new oil pump and things that are much more accessible like being able to remove the oil pump since you can remove the oil pan. When it comes to the heads be sure to spray them out where the head bolts go like you’ll see in my video. People have cracked blocks from the hydraulic pressure: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=m6E9cZOREW-o-zCy
Yes, direct injection and the fuel pump lifter looked good but I replaced it ALL while I was in there DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm crossing my fingers.. im at 260 km without any issues so far. 2016 silverado with 5.3. I raised my idle to 700rpm and turn off the dod in the ecu and only use shell 91-93. I will most likely swap the engine for a l8t when it will happen to me.
I always used Mobil 1 full synthetic dexos approved 0w20 and changed it earlier than the oil timer said. It’s unfortunately common on these engines to have a lifter failure
Changing valve springs are not required on the L86? Can you tell us the the length difference between stock and replacement push rods? Thank you for sharing this info.
Stock push rods are 7.85” and the ones BTR recommended were Ls7 length 7.80” Valve springs were not recommended for being a stock cam spec replacement.
@@bentabor9410 here is the step by step if you want it DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.html
Thank you for posting this video… and this link as well. I’ll be definitely referencing is and doing it as I do NOT have thousands to spend at a shop. Gotta learn sometime right? 😅
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the non-stock pushrods doing? I'm talking with a mechanic shop about AFM Delete kit on a 2020 5.3L Tahoe and my mechanic isn't aware of the non-stock different sized pushrods. I'm trying to inform him that people online are recommending to go with the non-stock ones, but I don't know the exact reason why and if it is working better. I'd like to hear if you still recommend using the non-stock pushrods. Thank you.
You can turn it off electronically and it will save you the most time. Some say eventually the vlom still leaks and deactivates the cylinder, but with all the other parts involved I’d take my chances until it’s a problem. Just catch it as soon as possible so it doesn’t put metal shavings in the engine: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=hOOp1XWCI16qaLuR
I got a 2017 gmc yukon Denali 3 months ago with 50,000 miles I got the best warranty you can get threw easy care it just started ticking really loud and then the engine light came on the same day will they replace the whole engine or just the cam and lifters?
I have a new 2023 Yukon Denali XL with 4k miles on it. I was planning on getting a new cam, headers, lifters, and deleting the deactivation garbage when my warranty is up. Question: should I do it sooner rather than later before my warranty goes out and just get it over with?????
I would not do it until it’s a problem. There are a lot of other variables with the heads/gaskets, timing chain tensioner, oil pressure, etc. Let it go the warranty length minimum
Unfortunately, it’s very common. It’s quite a large project to fix it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=7czcCgV6mYiOtlIo
One last question sir !! Plz!! That camshaft says for 5.3… can you verify that can you told us to buy is for the 6.2 as well correct ? Is that a forged cam or cast ?
I would always verify for your specific year, make, model, engine. It’s the one BTR sold to me in the kit, and it’s in my 6.2 right now, so it works as far as I can say www.amazon.com/GM-Genuine-12672469-Overhead-Camshaft/dp/B09NMK9PCB?crid=15Y3FTXYZRHTL&keywords=12672469+g%3Bm+cam&qid=1695481995&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=12672469+g+m+cam,aps,227&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=fcd0bc5a09f12b8d2cb200515df3f280&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Im using ls7 lifters with my TSP DOD Delete kit, but went with oem length pushrods of 7.850". I havent even taken it all apart yet but wondering if i should exchange my pushrods for the 7.800"?
Good question. I’m nervous about mine, but so far so good. Maybe try calling Bryan Tooley Racing, and see if they tell you the same thing as they did me
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the 7.800 pushrods doing? Any updates on that? I'm talking with a mechanic and we are trying to see if this is a good idea. Thanks.
I have a 2000 silverado 5.3 with most likely worn out lifters. Ticks in the morning anywhere from 2 sec to 5 min, then stops once it warms up. Have always changed oil every 3-5k. 170k on motor. Any ideas on what i should do? Found remanufactured motor for 2500. Should i just keep driving until the tick doesn't go away? Is the camshaft likely damaged? Thanks
My 2000 has done that for years. May even be the pistons slapping until they warm up and expand or the lifters as you say. I don’t think it would be a huge problem unless it gets worse
Ok. Thanks. Definitely could be piston slap. There's actually times when it won't tick for a few weeks, then it just returns. It seems it starts to tick when it gets down just a half a quart. Plus it does burn a quart of oil every 1k miles but that's probably worn out valves seals or piston rings
It's broken exhaust manifold bolts. The rear ones like to break. Once it heats up the the gap closes. The old LS's don't have lifter issue's unless you don't change oil like at all lol. A lot of people think the old LS engines had lifter tick but that's what it is
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yeah, it's too bad things are not built as well these days. We have an 2018 Yukon XL Denali with just over 100,000 on it. No issues yet, but it didn't start right in negative degree weather once last year... Haven't really heard what happened with that lawsuit against GM for this lifter issue either...
Lamentablemente, no tengo un taller. Solo arreglo mis autos y hago vídeos para ayudar ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=bHmzBVyF2bdCDdKB
It is really sad that quality standards are compared to mediocrity! We spend a lot of money buying these cars and we get junk in return. Also dealers are way overpriced! I think the idea there is to get you to buy a new car or truck! I definitely think GM should recall these motors and we the consumer should get what we paid for!
Many should be, but I would go into a dealership and ask for the list with you vin. To my understanding, the camshaft is even for a 5.3 specifically for their version that doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. They might say some parts like that are not for your truck and won’t fit since it didn’t come with them. I would also reach out to Brian Tooley racing
If it was only in the computer it can still fail as the solenoids leak and collapse the lifter anyway DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I understand that they stretch, but they're only good for a single torqing duty cycle? I mean, I trust what you say, but it seems excessive that the bolts would be unsuitable to be used again. A lot has changed since I was wrenching on vehicles. I would've gone to the junk yard for a head bolt back in the day. 😂
@@Atouk yeah, they are supposed to be used only once for the risk of them snapping or also being off length when stretched. Of course my friend has used the same bolts before and been okay, but I’ll always show the best practice in my videos and for my own preference ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.htmlsi=ekZqs047xsrwUgmy
Gen 5 engines have a cam operated high pressure fuel pump. There is a tool for alignment that tells you if the cam lobe is down (base circle) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4RakxjsWFFg.htmlsi=7Liuwl-tqADNtEfJ
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Nice, yeah I went and looked for how to do that. Love the videos. I started looking because I have a 2019 5.3l silverado and want to keep it. I love the truck and want to retire next year. I have nearly 113,00'ish miles on it and have been using a pulsar LT unit. Runs great, sounds great, but I know what can happen. I wanted to be proactive and go for a new cam and lifters before something catastrophic happened, but it's a far larger job now than when I was playing with cars and trucks in the 80's. I'm still looking for oil pumps in the oil pan. This is a huge undertaking even for me in my own cement floored pole barn. Could be a fun retirement project. Pull the engine and transmission right out and do things the right way. ✌
@@Warmachine-tu5zo It’s about 4x the cost and you still end up with a direct injection engine. Most still have the dod valvetrain too. If you decide it’s the best route, it would be worth it to look for an engine without the dod/afm. The L8T might be a good option but they also have some oil consumption concerns and still have direct injection. I understand even the manual transmission cars have the bad dod lifters just turned off in the software. Going to another engine may give you other problems. There are certainly more options and this is only one. It definitely is a hard one
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage This is wild. I bought a used 2014 with under 100k the other day thinking if this happens ill just have it rebuilt or swap it. Had no idea it was this expensive to get this type of work done. Hopefully it runs for many years.. So best option is just a rebuild/afm delete if it has lifter failure?
Just got the call that my motor is completely toast on my 2017 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 - My motor was rebuilt (cam, lifters, etc) under warranty 53,000 km's ago and now they'e basically telling me too fckn bad and there's nothing they can do since it's been over a year. Absolutely pissed after already dealing with this once and waiting 3 months for a cam in 2022. GM needs their asses sued into oblivion.... Anyone have info on a class action lawsuit in Canada for these issues??
You guys must drive real hard and not take care of it or i got a gem 102800 miles 17 silverado 5.3 had some oil cooling lines get warranty work otherwise solid. Just get a range plug in delete for the dod and change oil every 3k-4k miles and let the damn thing warm up before you step on it 😅
I changed my oil well ahead of schedule, and only towed a few times. Unfortunately, it is all too common for the failure, even as mine did on a regular lifter before 100,000 miles. You are getting right into the danger zone. DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cWayyZGNYRI.html
@dannyjohnsonsgarage I need a friend with that when or if I do this, did he charge for doing that for you? If so, he's a great guy. I'm in the north region (Canada)
My nefew just paid $4,600.00 for a new cam and lifters in his 2019 GMC 6.2 truck. It lunched out the lifters and cam at 49K miles. His bill of $4,600.00 was only half of the total bill of $9,200.00. GM picked up the other half. What deal. No thanks GMC. I'll NEVER buy a vehicle that has the DOD and VLOM systems in them. Keep your stupid tech that wrecks a good basic engine. American junk. The American car industry is a joke.
