Awesome man! I just purchased a used 2018 ss 1le with 3k miles and love the car. Current mods I have is a cold inductions it, flex fuel sensor and the same mid pipe kit you have on your car w/secondary cat delete, also a ported throttle body from Tony Mamo. Currently not tuned yet for E85 but looking to do the remote tuning from jannetty racing HP tuners. Hoping to get in the 11's too...
Basically no real modsfor much more than 10-12 hp. And sinxe irs a manual only prior to 2020, 1LE was not made for 1/4 it was made for circut tracks. Road race tracks.
Great mods! Just one note; E85 certainly increases horsepower, torque and helps the engine run cooler, however I recommend you use fuel lines, fuel pumps and injectors designed to handle E85. Ethanol is very corrosive compared to gasoline and it is wise to set up your fuel system accordingly. Thanks for the great video!
Thats correct, but pretty much all newer cars from the 2015ish and newer maybe a couple older ones are all built with e85 proper fuel systems. On older models you are correct, you want to make sure your fuel system is set up to work with E85. I ran E85 non stop for over a year without any issues.
That's great you should be in good shape on corrosion protection. On my G8 they installed teflon lined fuel lines and a newer fuel tank. The biggest difference in my car is I am running a Magnuson 2300 Supercharger. When they dialed it in on the dyno it made 715 horsepower with E85 and a quart of pure methanol mixed in and just six pounds of boost. I run Bosch Injector Dynamics 1050 injectors and the fuel system is set up on a loop, running fuel up to the engine into the fuel rails, then back to the tank. This provides enough fuel for hard acceleration. If I run 93 Octane Pump Gas the engine only makes 585 horsepower, which is quite a drop in power, but it's still a beast, especially for a four door sedan. It is amazing how just changing fuel can add over 100 horsepower. My biggest issue is tires. I run stock Michelin Pilots and they go up in smoke very easily. Good slicks improve track times. I use my car as a daily driver so the slicks are not practical, but it is still fun to run a car that can hang in there with the ZL1, Hellcat and Shelby. Enjoy your ride and thank you for the informative video.
Should have just gotten a ZL1 from the get go if you gonna mod the SS. Transforming your SS will cost more in the long run. It might be just as fast or faster.....but....the ZL1 bells and whistles are what it makes it a ZL1....body, suspension, brakes, trim, finer details. And....Blue book value would be much higher for the life of the car.
For me the zl1 was out of my budget and price point. and I planned on modding from the very beginning. yes you get the bells and whistles which is why i state that the zl1 is a different car. Im just showing that for someone wanting to get similar speed out of a car that fits their budget more, its very doable with an SS and for very minimal mods.
@BRUCE LEE You seem to not realize that ZL1 comes with two different suspension packages from the factory. The regular ZL1 has the magnetic ride control which provides great handling and streetability without the rough ride of a coilover package and the ZL1 1LE comes with the DSSV multimatic coilover suspension which is made for the track and well tested with a lot of hours by GM. The SS will never be on the same level as that car mod for mod or stock for stock on a road course. The aero, brakes, wheels, tires, engine, cooling etc etc far exceeds the capabilities of the SS 1LE. The ZL1 1LE is the one to get. It's a winning combination right out of the factory and it doesn't just come with magnetic ride control like you're stating. Also, the ZL1 1LE can run hard all day long without skipping a beat. That's highly more impressive than a modded SS that you're trying to turn into a ZL1.
Good topics, however the bone stock GEN 6 SS HP is 455, with an 18% drive line loss you're looking at about 380hp at the wheels, not 410. However, that being said, the GM 6.2L V-8 small block is an outstanding engine that responds to mods, even the smallest with notable gains.
The car put down 410 on the dyno bone stock. These new trans especially the 10 speed are a lot more efficient than older trans so I think the driveline loss is actually more around 10%. But either way dyno numbers done mean much it’s about the times it runs.
15% with a stick, 19% with auto. Auto 1LE option was not avail until late 19'- 2020. No one with a good nibd buys the 1LE SS with a auto. The manuals are quicker (in good hands) than the A10 once above 40 mph. Lighter too.
@@MasterCarguy44-pk2dqno manual is quicker then a 10 speed doesn’t matter who driving it. No human can shift fast as a computer and not only that but the added gears keep you at higher rpm leaving you at the peak of the power band
Badass jorge ! Excited to see the gains that you will be getting soon at the track ! That intake is killer ! I want one for my vette but ima have to save for a while ..a long while lol ! ZL1 performance for alot less money is awesome in my book. 😎🤘 BurnRubberBrotha!
Thanks! Im just as excited! I wasn't expecting to be doing the intake install so soon, but when you find a deal sometimes you just have to say f it and jump on it! lol
Nice brother i Cant wait to get Throttle body and intake manifold . I just ordered American Racing headers with the x pipes without the mufflers and tip . For 1890 and jeeping my stock mufflers and tips so i can have the quiet and loud mode . Roto Fab CAI for 550 because its illegal in California . Motorad Thermostat 45$ , and DSX E85 Sensor for 350 $ . So Total in Parts is 2835$. Too bad our prices arent gonna be the same because i have to pay someone to put in the Parts since im not a mechanic Like you . Haha
Ummah Have Faith thanks! And definitely some parts are more expensive and can get more expensive if you add labor, but overall will still be cheaper than buying anew zl1!
The only camaro ss that can be turned into a better ZL1 is the SS 1LE. Even without the forged internals and just swapping a supercharger in there, you can beat a ZL1 and with magnetic ride and wide tire setup, it handles just like a ZL1. You are still looking at spending 10 grand for all of that add ons.
Dont waste $ on magna doodle ride thats just for confort, adds weight and does not improve performance. Thats been proven over and over this last 8yrs.
Nice video bro. U explain it pretty gd makes sense u can save 25grand n plus tax on that amount n also insurance will be less. 👍 I’m gonna do the exact modes done to my 2019 1le in few months.
Wao man thank you for great information. Very honest. I trying to do intake ,e85, speed engineering headers with midpipe. Basically same as you . The question is where do you get tune ?. Thank you
Tyler Gentry that would be an awesome video! He’s already driven my SS so would be better suited to give a comparison between how fast the SS felt vs the Zl1. He’s in GA and I’m in TX, but maybe we can get something set up before he starts nodding his Zl1 lol
You're running as good as mine, and im running an edelbrock EForce, headers, tune, and cam but...I have a 6 speed, it's mean on hwy, trap is a different story. I around 10 k in mine. 😞
Good video. Is the comparison to a manual ZL1? When just talking 1/4 mile time and trap speed, I can definitely see it can be faster than a manual, but not the automatic while it's pushing about 560 hp to the wheel.
The times i mentioned are for the auto zl1s. GM really restricts the cars from factory with the factory tunes, which is why they run what they run. Most Zl1s with a tune only can gain some power and be much faster.
not neccesarily, the ss is lighter than the zl1, and im running the et times using drag radials to get a good launch. The mph comes from the top end of the ss and the mods and tune which open up the power for the ss vs all the limitations of stock tune on a zl1.
Ur video is great for the mods! If you buy a 2018Zl1 the headers , X pipes, Msd intake and the 95 or 103 throttle body and the cold air would be bolt on item one needs for a ZL1? E 85 sensor too.
boost most often requires built motor for lt1s. It would drive the cost up significantly and put more pressure on the engine. with the nitrous and stand alone fuel cell it can easily support same levels of power with less stress in my opinion. i was running 730 hp on nitrous and car was running strong!
Jorge's Vlog i don’t know if we are going to beat a stock gen6 Zl1 because they are a lot better than the gen5’s but the car definitely has better potential at the drag strip because of the reared, transmission and boosting options. Having said all that I race with a slightly modded Zl1 that runs low 10’s here and into the 9’s where the air is better I have a long way to go to get there and there’s just no beating the big horsepower.
Jorge's Vlog I’ve beaten a couple gen5’ Zl1’s with mine 18 stock other than a tire just because the try racing with a track tire and I’ve time matched an 18zl1 manual because of traction issues again but some blower porting and a tune makes the Zl1 fly. I love the msd intake I was thinking Holly sniper and a procharger on mine but that msd looks sweet, I hope we can get some dyno numbers and track videos as you do the build and I’ll follow along.
Redline Motorcars yes sir, i should have the MSD intake on in the next few days and get the tune updated. Trying to go to the track next week to see how it works!
Awesome video Jorge, love your content man. Out of curiosity if the solar performance TB came out around $600, how come you didn’t go with the Nick Williams 103 mm TB? If I’m not mistaken I believe they’re slightly more expensive. Btw Congrats on the MSD IM, you got a nice discount. Excited to see how it’s going to perform! 👍🏼
Thanks! and the 103 are around 650ish, and the only reason the solar performance one was around 600 was because of the adapter i bought to run it on the lt1. if you plan on getting a bigger than stock tb its always better suited for the aftermarket msd intake which does not require the adapter. I plan on selling the adapter later, but not going to be using it with the msd intake.
They have about 3-400lb weight difference. But also stock tune is very restrictive to the lower delivery which hurts the launch times and kills et and mph. That’s why it can be just as fast if not faster when you mod an SS vs stock zl1
TB wont do anything, CAI wont either. A LT2 ported will make the same power as MSD/ 40% cheaper and no tq loss down low like the MSD. 1) Long tubes, 2) ported mani, 3) TB, 4) drop-in filter, 5) E kit and some light drag wjeels out back and rear seat delete, light wefht battery and 8 gal of gas and bam! shazam! 11.3@127 all day, slicks and 5-6 gal of hogh test amd your at 10.9@128-130. All for under $4500 and most of it you can diy except the tune.
It doesn't have the same bells and whistles, but for those just wanting speed the SS can be just as fast for much much less money and very similar reliability! plus no heat soak due to a blower!!! lol
Well said but atomic msd is hard to find for 1100 if ever you got a bargain, that was nearly the same setup I had back in 2018 with the 8 speed though you are right 11.60-11.48 with drag radials, so I would say you are right but HP I would say your whole gain would be just over 50 hp to the wheel give or take, excellent video and very straightforward.
These LT1's stock barely do 12.5@114 in the 1/4. And the manuals are quicker. Theres vids of stock A10 vs stock M6 SS and LT1 models in 1/4. The A10 always got the initial jump but passed after about 1/8th mark down the track.
How reliable is this engine with FBO including MSD manifold and ported TB.? I have my 19 1LE currently with headers intake and e85 kit installed but not tuned yet .. next I’m getting the pray ported MSD and ZR1 ported TB so I will have same FBO as you .. wondering how reliable this engine is
Diego Penaloza no different than stock if the tune is dialed in correctly. The reliability starts to suffer more when you start adding things like nitrous or even worse when you add boost. The car with just bolt ons will be a fun fast car and be very reliable!
On the LT1 engines of the Camaros its all about air flow and a ported tb will definitely help, even more so when you port the stock intake and or get a bigger intake manifold.
I have a inferno orange 2011 Camaro SS naturally aspirated with a new GM performance LS3 495 crate engine with CNC ported heads and 16,000 dollars in upgrades not including the cost of the car 15,000 a built 6L80e transmission with a circle D 4200rpm stall converter one piece aluminium driveshaft ZL1 fuel pump and injectors Mickey Thompson 305/45r17 ET street R drag radials rear tires 18 inch skinnies on the front to mention some upgrades dynoed 430 horsepower 410 torque to the wheels tuned and runs on E85 l made 3 eighth mile passes with it a month ago l live in Florida best pass 7.40s at 94mph with 1.70 60 foot times with more passes and testing probably could run 7.2s don't know what all ZL1s run but the one that was at the track the night l made passes a 2018 was running 7.9s at 96mph with 1.95 60 foot times it had drag radials but l think it was stock and a automatic some of the upgrades done to my car were cosmetic and suspension brakes and new bearing hubs so not every dollar spent was spent on performance upgrades but 13,000 of it was go fast upgrades
@@JLSpeed my car ran this time on the motor naturally aspirated with 26 degrees timing it has a nitrous setup with a 150 hit 200 hit or 250 hit but the timing needs to be at 19 degrees to use it and with just over 600 miles on this setup haven't gotten that far yet but once l get some more miles on it will be trying a 150 hit in hopes of getting it in the 6.80s in the eighth mile
Gloria,your hp numbers don’t sound right. Should be much higher! I have a 2012 ss,stage 3 cam,headers,heads are shaved 30 thousand,but are stock heads. 3200 circle d stall,and I’m putting down 490 whp. For 16,000 in up grades I sure hope you misprinted your numbers.
@@nickcox2568 no it's 430 rearwheel horsepower 410 foot pounds of torque on a Mustang dyno it has a mild LS3 GM hot camshaft that the crate came with and the 16,000 in upgrades is not only engine parts they include suspension transmission and rear end upgrades wheels and tires I'm much more interested in its eighth and quarter mile times than dyno numbers I've made new passes since this was posted a year ago new times runs 7.22 at 96mph in the eighth with 1.65 60 foot times and 11.28 at 122.7mph in the quarter mile all motor passes got any times for your car in the eighth or quarter mile or just impressive dyno numbers your stage 3 camshaft is quite a bit more aggressive than my GM hot camshaft my car ran these times with the stock 3.27 gears and a Circle D 4200rpm stall converter my car redlines at 6600rpm and will do 123mph in 3rd gear at 6600rpm and will cruise on the highway at 80mph at 2100-2200 rpm the dyno was used for tuning not for bragging numbers it's a fairly mild setup that makes good torque throughout the entire RPM range and the quarter and eighth miles times prove it on the motor car is nitrous equipped that hasn't been used yet l have jets for a 150-200-250 hit a 150 hit should knock a good .5 of a second off these times that it made on the motor with good traction on a 150 hit of nitrous it made 555 rearwheel horsepower and 535 foot pounds of torque with timing backed off to 19 degrees from running on motor at 26 degrees timing this is the only time the nitrous has been used and it was only a 150 hit car should go 6.70s in the eighth and 10.70s in the quarter mile with a 150 hit but I'd like to run 6.90s-7.0s in the eighth on the motor first before using the nitrous but the weight of the car 3920 pounds with me in it doesn't make it easy to do
Sounds like you’re putting down some good times. I’ve only ran mine once on street tread,wouldn’t hook at all,ran 7.02 at 101. I decided not run anymore until my slicks come in. I do have 2 step setup,I’m running 3:91 gears,I have reduced 400 lbs so far. I hope the slicks help me out,should pick quite a bit hopefully, hopefully. Good luck to you.
Lol there's no way that's fast as a zl1. Mine has $2500 PRC heads, 2" tube headers, high flow cats, MSD intake manifold, .635 lift cam, etc etc and it won't beat a zl1. 544 to wheels
It should beat a stock or even very lightly modded zl1.... get a differnet set up or tuner. stock zl1s run low 12s, and even tuned on intake zl1s run in the mid to high 10s. a cam and heads set up ss should run that no problem....
Hes gonna need a clutch kit too. 1LE clutch cant handle the abuse of 1/4 driving because it wasnt made for dtag stripea, but rather circut tracks. The TR6060 6 spd trans is plenty tough though.
Ofcourse, but that’s not the way I was using my camaros. I would love to drive them on a road course, my zl1 would have been a great car to drive in track, maybe I’ll drive my c8 on track eventually.
650 is what they advertise to the crank I just dynoed my new zl1 last week and it out down 546 to the wheels. Combine that with the limitations of the stock tune and my SS will walk all over the zl1 lol not to mention the zl1 is around 300-400 lbs heavier than a 1SS....
@@xcesve idk what to tell ya, my FBO SS would run low 11s at 125 where a stock zl1 at the track same day same weather conditions would only run 11.5s at 123-124
@@xcesve bolt on the camaro will run low 11s at mid 125s no cam but go check out the rest of my videos I have since done the cam and heads and added nitrous to my SS and it is a 9 second car lol
The end goal was to be able to get over 650 and did just that without having. To go crazy into a fuel system by using nitrous and a stand alone. It was a great car really fast… I miss it.
Vog, come on dude wake up, what are you some valley girl..lol.l😂😂😂 straight line speed doesn’t matter what your driving in todays world, you can drive a v6 mustang with turbos and out run your car..something else your not thinking about is cheap parts aren’t always as good, or make as much power as better made and tested parts, I’ve seen exhausts make a 50whp difference between different aftermarket brands ,and I’ve seen 15 WHP difference in headers, I’ve seen 10hp difference on ported and after market throttle bodies ,I’ve seen stock mainfolds have 15whp more than aftermarket mainfolds..also that manifold you bought is a nice piece, but it’s not the best out there either..
This was back in 2019…. And I had a specific build in mind….the end build before I sold it was pretty solid in my opinion. Mid 9s on spray stock bottom end just heads cam and nitrous was pretty solid. Never had any issues with the build. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to build another one in the future lol
These comments are filled with zl1 nut riders.. If it ain't the top of the line it's worthless. Ss are running 9's just like zl1's seems like no one knows what they are talking about.
9 seconds of fun. 9 second thrill. Just 9 seconds huh? Get your SS on the road course for 20min vs that same ZL1 and see how it does. That's where you'll see why the ZL1 is the one to buy. There's no comparison point blank. I've owned a 6th gen SS and it's not close to my 6th gen ZL1 mod for mod, or stock for stock. Yeah it cost more but you're getting a hell of a car for the price you're paying. There's literally no comparison. You throw all of that money at an SS and at the end of the day you should've just bought a used 6th gen ZL1!
@@jonasblane2157 no shit it’s not the same stock for stock or mod for mod. It wouldn’t make sense if it was, considering the zl1 is a few thousand dollars more...
@@pianoguy4949 This comment is old, but I hear what you're saying. Some people just don't understand the value of a ZL1 over the SS which is why I said what I did originally over a year ago.
New for New you are looking at 20Kish plus price difference... and yeah yeah just find used blah blah this is just a comparison about the mods it takes to get an SS to run as fast if not faster than a stock zl1. and to show that it doesn't take much....
@@JLSpeed you want that horse power with out problem with car down the line 50k miles or more it could cost you that muck in repairs when your engine gets hurt
NICK BROWN I know all about modifying a car to the point where reliability starts to suffer, and that usually is more when you decide to do things like cam and heads and then do power adders like blowers. Just doing basic and what I have done is pretty mich basic bolt ons, with a proper tune will be just as reliable as stock.