As a mechanic since 1990, I really appreciate this video. It is full of perfectly succinct instructions & narrative and completely lacks ego, bullshit & cliche. I love you for that. I’ve been a Renault Zoe owner/driver/lover since October 2014 & moved into IT, in 2001.
Renault zoe is the worst car you can buy, you have to change wishbones and sway bars every 50000km and everytime you change tires you have to use an hour to clone the tpm sensors because the CAR doesnt recognize them, and theres ALOT more So i dont belive you’re a mechanic because then you would never buy This garbage car
@@dave972 you know the car in the video is a Tesla don't you, not a Renault. In regards to issues you raised its worth remembering that the components can be purchased and fitted very cheaply. An anti-roll bar drop link is a 20 minute job as is a wishbone and it cost peanuts to buy. Just so you know, I have City and Guilds in Heavy Vehicle Repair and Maintenance, IMI Level 4 in Electric Vehicle Repair and Diagnosis, a HNC in Mechanic Engineering, A HGV license, a full motorbike licence and I've worked on the trade for over 25 years, so I'm more happy with my qualifications, thank you.
@@dave972 I'm going to call you out on this. James serviced my 2018 Zoe in February with nearly 40,000 miles (64,300 km). There was no appreciable wear on the anti roll bar drop links, or on the wishbones (both the bushes and the balljoints). It has had new tyres and didn't need an hour to reclone the TPMS sensors because the car recognised them straightaway. I think you're talking rubbish. I've just traded that Zoe in and bought another Zoe with a bigger battery.
I don't own an EV but I was curious what the maintenance aspects were on a Telsa. Your video was very through and the video pace was on-point. It's pretty cool to see how much less hassle an EV is when it comes to top-ups and servicing. Cheers Kate, you're a legend! :)
My Model S has almost 100K miles on the odometer. At about 85K my Service 12V Battery Message came up on the display. I figured it was time for its third annual service anyway, so I called up the SC and they put an appointment in for 3 weeks in the future. Well the battery did not make it that long. I figured no biggie, I'll change it myself. I've changed countless car batteries. Well getting to the battery was no huge problem as it involved disassembling the frunk. The problem came in that Tesla uses a deep cycle battery that has reverse terminals. No problem finding the same size battery at the local Batteries+ store, but the terminals were reversed. However, I found a simple work around that I would be happy to share that allowed me to use the standard deep cycle scooter battery that is the same size just with reverse terminals. The battery cost me $96 verses what I found out later was a $500 Tesla battery! When I brought it in for service the service techs were amazed and said they had never seen anyone successfully change their own battery, much less with an aftermarket battery. After watching this video, I might just do my own service next time!
2:53 Kate, the pads retaining spring bracket doesn't sit correctly. It is crookedly seated as shown in the video. The pad retaining spring bracket has two jogs for the two guide pins. One for the top guide pin and one for the bottom guide pin. The jogs in the retaining spring bracket are there to reside within the two guide pins and it locks the retaining spring bracket in position to prevent it from moving. Thx for the great DIY video
A very illuminating and professional demonstration. Certainly a quicker and cleaner task than on a ice vehicle. A big saving compared with dealer prices.
I learned how to service a car when I was 7 years old at a local Gulf service station. My mother freaked out as I was covered in oil and grease and happy as a lark. By the time I was 8 years old I knew how to change the oil and filter, the old style cartridge oil filters, change out the air filter and clean the air filter as they were oil bath air filters back then. Change out the v belts, do a tuneup spark plugs, points, condensers and ignition wires plus rotors and distributor. Oil all locations that required lubrication and use sae 3 brake fluid on all the rubber boots on the grease fittings to prevent the rubber boots from dry rotting. The technicians of today when I tell them about the SAE 3 brake fluid they had no idea you could use brake fluid for that purpose. And pull wheels to inspect or rebuild the brakes at each wheel. Then remove the tire's and install new tire's back in the 50's with tire tubes. Yes I miss the old days. I miss them. Cheers!
With copper grease between wheel and hub, the alloys and the steel hub can 'weld' themselves together due to heat and moisture. So a little copper grease will save you from problems later in vehicle life.
Excellent Kate, but I've already had James (Cleeveleys) go over our '14 S85 ! All was sound, so I got him to change the diff oil after 8 years I thought it a sound investment ! Great job both of you thanks !
Loved this - possibly your best vid yet and echo all the good things said before. Really refreshing to see Kate doing the service, how lucky you are James !
you should remove the fill plug first to prevent an air bubble lock then open the drain plug of the induction motor trans fluid.. Once the fluid drains out the close the drain fluid plug and then with the open fill plug add the needed fluid... but the key is do not get a air lock when you drain with a closed fill plug
Good comment re the copper grease on wheel studs. Same goes for brake pads and calipers - use ceramic based lube such as Ceratec - copper grease accelerates rusting, and can gub the ABS sensors.
James and Kate That's the reason manufacturers don't use copper grease or anti seize on spark plugs. It gets everywhere, tangles itself in polymers so it will never come out and would eventually contaminate the whole factory including the paint shop.
Thanks for the video. It gives me hope maintenance costs will be low for the Model 3 ( I'm getting one soon, replacing a Honda Civic SI). The idea is that over a 10 year ownership the total costs (fueling, maintenance, initial purchase price) are similar even if the Tesla is more expensive to buy (long range, rwd). I live in Canada, the gasoline is expensive, electricity is not. Working on a spreadsheet to calculate exactly where the break even point is.
PhilBear you’re clearly a very forward thinking chap, sadly in a minority that have the foresight to make these calculations. I’ve been chatting with Kenneth from Model 3 owners and his opinion of the 3 was a very positive. Great choice 😊👍🏻
Resell value is the hardest to calculate. If tesla releases new batteries with faster charging and better range or something else that will drop the value alot i can be bad deal even if it is good atm. Waiting few more years just give more time to save for used model 3 or some new better version.
Well what a mechanic you looked just as clean at the end as you did at the start !! These electric cars really are very clean aren’t they ;-) Well done guys keep up the hard work but it really wasn’t on the Tesla .. it’s a plesssssssssure ;-)
This is a very informative video! I had no idea that Teslas had fluids requiring monitoring and replacement. I just figured they put some electric gizmo as a replacement for fluids!
Me too bruh, I call up Tesla to get quotes on finance a Tesla. Now that know you have to change the oil..I'm getting a hellcat...Tesla is shady, I should if know I used to work at the main factory 😫😫😫😫😫🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😄😥
I’m just confused , do they have an electric service log. How do you get on with stamped warranty service for warranty. I want to do this to my ev but i still need to bring to mg for warranty
Trust me my service is due on my Audi A6 2013 plate, its coming up to its major service and its done just under 55K, major services are normally due around 57K. You don't wanna know the cost. Will be getting an EV in the future when the UK gets a better infrastructure for charging
Suggestion/request: Once the car reaches 50k miles/4 years upload another video showing how to change the coolant and required maintenance? love your work and how approachable the video helps Tesla owners
People that lubricate wheel studs have usually had a lug nut seize and break a wheel stud. Anti seize lubricant on wheel studs prevents snapping off the wheel studs. (Just drop your lug nut torque 10 foot pounds)
Hi - I'm a bit late but catching up! I'm puzzled as to why the reduction gear oil needs changing. Normally the reason for changing oil is contamination, normally with combustion products, and even on ICE vehicles the transmission oil lasts for the lifetime of the vehicle.
How many mechanics actually do all these things ? Had a truck with 250k from new. A fuel lins cracked interstate. The mechanic said "wow didn't know the factory fitted oil filters lasyed this long" Short story, most dealerships do sfa on vehicles new under warrenty. If something breaks its covered by warrenty is there attitude.
I meant to say its really nice to see female mechanics wrenching i will never own a tesla but the video was really informative looking forward to watching more thank you!
Actually no it isn't its 15K That was the Bugatti Vayron roadtrippers.com/stories/bugatti-service-costs On a Ferrari its maybe 1 to 2 thousand but when stuff goes wrong (as it does) it gets a bit eye watering.
Ive run a Model S P85 since 2014 now has 125,000 uk miles. Back disc rotors and pads were replaced a few years ago by Tesla as they had rusted/seized pistons, scored the pads. I just did the fronts, it was dead easy and cheap. OSF wheel bearing went noisy, i bought a pair of SKF for £180 and thought as the brake pedal was pulsing a bit I would do the rotors and pads. Simple and quick job also cheap with Blue spot totors at £40 each and pads £22 for the lot. Good time to T cut the red calipers and silver aluminium spray the discs (cheap as chip chrome lookalike silver spray is aluminium based and saves the rotors from looking like rust buckets). All in all the old Tesla is becoming a cheap to do DIY runner. Parts are getting so cheap
James and Kate I was a mechanic in the distant past & the only SnapOn tools I had were won in a competition - I preferred MAC tools, they just seemed a little slicker.
Technically the motor is called a motor, not an engine. Also, before reinstalling the plastic trim buttons, spray them with silicone spray while they are in the tray that you store them in. This aids removal for future maintenance.
Wow! Hats off to you for servicing your own car so seamlessly and so gracefully. Even though the instructions were pretty clear I 1) lack the equipment and 2) lack the confidence to give this a go. But hey after watching the video I feel a teeny bit more knowledgable about my Model S. So thats gotta be worth something, right? hahah
Nice job Kate! You need to get the rear wheels refurbed though, looks like they've been kerbed :) My P100 is off to Tesla tomorrow for a service at 19K KMs, a little early but we're taking it to Spain in a few weeks and I think (know) it needs new tyres too... Really like this type of video, keep up the great work.
Matt Lemon Hi Matt, that’s actually mud from journey up to the garage, but does look like bad driving on my part. Hopefully it’ll be nice and cheap, I’d be interested to know??
Thanks Kate.You've given R. ideas! She's even more convinced about EV's after this demonstration. Glad you were wearing goggles under the car. A hat is also useful.
Hm, but Tesla doesn't say anything about tranmission oil for the 2nd service, but they do change the brake fluid. And the cabin air filter ,). Ah, commented too early, you checked the brake fluid ;)
EVPaddy we did, and the cabin filter was changed a few months previous as it had a weird smell 😷 the drive unit oil gets done every 12k. It cost £10 a go so makes sense.
No service required but service centers are booked out for the next 6 month if you're lucky... Latest scandal involves paint that washes off the tesla and is extremely... thin....
The manufacturer doesn't put copper grease on the wheel studs, to save money and because its logistically simpler not because it isn't supposed to be there! My Dad worked for many years in motor industry research and always greased the wheel studs and contact area between wheel and hub - never had a problem with wheels corroding to the hub.
Actually, applying cooper grease to the studs reducing friction allowing more torque to be applied which can result in threads being stretched. This in turn can cause wheel nuts to come lose. All torque settings quite clearly state (Dry) from the manufacturer. There's a very good reason they don't put it on. However, I agree, on the meeting faces of alloy and steel it has many benefits.
Very good - what would be interesting would be what Telsa themselves charge for this? If it's significantly more, then we'll all be bringing our Tesla's to you!
Great video. I am obviously a late comer. Just took delivery of our 2019 MS last month. The manual lists very little maintenance, but recommends filter changes every 2 or 3 years and a clean/lube of the brake rotors annually. I would love to see a video on those items. Thanks!
Fantastic video more of the same please different EVs of course. I am sure that there will be many willing to donate their EV for the purposes of this video plus it should improve your subscriber count this is for an electric vehicle geek on a whole new level
