A friend taught me a cool trick. Trace the gasket on the packing material it came in. Poke holes where all the bolts go. When you pull a bolt, stick it in the corresponding hole. Some bolts may vary in size and length. This way each bolt goes back in the exact correct spot. No guessing.
You should be proud of yourself for taking on the clutch repair. Yeah, it's a little scary but you did it and the use of OEM parts is the best way to go most especially on a classic M109R. Way to go young man! I knew you could do it while I was watching the Indian race.
I'm just getting started. I want the skill to do any maintenance job on this bike. At least in the owners manual for now. Valve clearances are the big one.
OT a bit - roughly a week ago, I bought the same fold-in / fold-up chair 😀 Really handy to not have hip-muscles pain the next few days, when you have to work on the bike 🙂 Thumbs up. Ride hard & ride safe.
@@BrandonBicasso Oooh I'll do my best - you can count on that 🙂 BTW I did a lot of work on the Suzuki VS800 and VS1400 and I'm to replace the stator & regulator/rectified on my C90T (feels more like chores than fun work), but - being very candid - I think there were and still are a lot of 'first time done' 's for each service action - so sharing your experience is (IMHO) invaluable to someone with less to no experience. If nothing else, those folks won't stumble upon some shenanigan, like you and I have, possibly 🙂 Thumbs up, bro - be safe, too.
May have to change my clutch soon (just got the bike, irritating!) and searched for videos. Your was right near the top of the list and I REALLY liked it!! Much appreciated! You got a new subscriber today. Also thanks for the extra stuff you added to the description, helpful!
great video Brandon . I find working on my own gear very relaxing and rewarding .. Does not always save you money at first but as your knowledge grows it def will in time
Hey, brave of you to admit the issues. We all have these "moments" even if we plan but most of us don't tell anyone 😁 When you ask people advice and they come back at you quick and say "YOU MUSN'T forget to do..." this or that you KNOW they've got it wrong and have the good nature to want to make sure you don't do it wrong too 🤗
I was genuinely blown away 😂😂😂😂 funny thing is, that impact wrench is dirt cheap but can handle everything on the bike. Should have gotten one earlier.
I use All Balls Racing for master cylinder rebuild kits and fork seal kit. Heads up, Fork seals can be a pain. It took me and a mechanic friend 4 hours and a lot of pain to get those rebuilt.
Thanks, Charles. That's why I haven't done them yet 😂😂😂😂 My local shop will let me use the special tools to make it easy, but I'm considering to just pay them to do it. 🤦🏾♂️
@@BrandonBicasso If you dont have someone to help you I recommend biting the bullet and paying them to do it. You can do it yourself but you will need the exact tools and a vice to get it done. My 09 Raider is at 50k miles and I can tell my clutch is getting weak too. That will be the next repair on my list. I have both master cylinders rebuilt, fork seals replaced, all new cables and 2 inch fatty ape hangers installed this year.
@@decapolis01 Yeah, I don't have one or an extra hand at all. I considered taking the forks off and taking them in to get changed to save some money. Might be the best option. And I could've gone longer on the clutch I think. Just couldn't do anything performance based.
I don't totally agree with you about stock parts. When you look at clutches there is more in between stock and high performance. EBC for example have a nice range of clutches, from stock to full out racing. On my CBR 1000f I took a one step up from EBC, and I love it. They are super responsive but not edgy like a race clutch. In contrary of your saying,mine is, stock sucks. 😂 But hey, that's me. I'm always on the lookout for that little bit more/better. And to be fair...if in doubt, go stock. Or do some good research on what's out there. And I mean GOOD research. BTW, love your videos man. Keep them coming.
Nice work bro! 40k miles seems really low for a stock clutch pack-IMO. I've got 142k miles on my stock clutch on my Valkyrie. It gets ridden pretty hard. I'd been tempted to go aftermarket in your situation just because the OEM failed so early.
See it's not so bad eh :) I really should buy all the right tools at some point and stop smashing my hands and such. I will one day. Great knowledge man and great video!
BB, well done young man, well done! Thanks for sharing and encouraging all of us to get our hands dirty even if we aren't well seasoned mechanics. So we are waiting on the test ride and review of the difference dot dot dot.
I can honestly recommend a lift. I don't like harbor freight, but I used the coupon to get their lift. Mine needed some TLC in the hydraulics department, but it works well. I just don't like getting the bike on and off the lift, so maybe an Abba lift is in my future. :) The "right tool" thing is so true. I was struggling with a simple hammer drill in my old place in Holland to get window coverings up. All concrete, and my drill and bits weren't cutting it. Almost broke the drill and 2 bits were gone (cheapies). Then I decided to get a budget rotary hammer. Got it, opened the box, put the SDS bit in. Half a second of BBBRRAAAAAAPPP and I had holes at the depth I needed instead of me sweating and swearing and breaking equipment for 45 minutes. I am preparing for valve clearance measurement (and correction if needed). As it's a semi-precision job, I bought quality feeler gauges, but also a Mitutoyo micrometer and a Mitutoyo calibration piece to ensure the micrometer is measuring correctly (it was), to ensure the feeler gauges are as thick as they are claimed to be. Maybe I'm too much of a nerd. It was also a great opportunity to spend some money on quality tools. :)
Yep, I'm preparing myself for the valve clearances soon too. I know mine will need to be adjusted so that's gonna take some serious focus. Last thing I want to do is drop a shim in the engine 😂😂😂😂
@@BrandonBicasso Put some shop rags into any holes that could catch the shims! I'm still out one oil fill cap in my truck that disappeared into the depths of the engine compartment. I'm more careful now with it's replacement. :)
Well done bud! The key is definitely to have the right tools! It saves your time and avoid you to breaking something! Congrats! If you don't mind to share, how much did you pay for the spare parts?
I have a '19 model with a couple thousand miles on it so far.. it will still be some time till I need to replace the clutch, but its good to be prepared for wt is coming.. maintenance for this bike down here in Brazil is quite complicated in regards to parts
Nice video thanks for making and sharing! I have a 09 m109r is your manual the same for my bike? I finally got a m109r last month trying to learn as much as I can.
B.B. Always a pleasure viewing your content, very informative, and intuitive, how'd it go? Does it shift better? Anyways thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next one
If you get the chance, head to the M109R Riders, Friends, and Family Facebook group and search my name. I've been rebuilding my entire engine since Sept 26th when I had a connecting rod bearing eat itself and score my crankshaft so badly I had to replace it. I've been posting images and updates all along the way. Can't agree more with your advice here. Right tools, service manual, help from the community, etc! There is an excellent group of very knowledgeable 9 owners ready and willing to help, myself included now to an extent.
Unless I missed it but you didn't mention about soaking the clutch plates in oil before installing. This is a must. They need to be properly lubed before install. Great job otherwise though.
Eh, I’ve always been told that too. Manual said nothing about soaking them actually. I soaked mine, but they’re gonna get soaked anyway when you start the bike 😂 Guess Suzuki doesn’t think it matters either.
@@BrandonBicasso they are "friction" plates. Anything that has friction needs properly lubed for assembly. Friction clutch plates could tear apart even though you fill up with oil after assembly.
@@guido1534 Yeah, but what about the whole theory on soaking them versus just dipping them in oil and slapping them in? I looked at it as they aren’t absorbing oil versus just lubricating the surface.
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
whelp, sounds like that was an invitation to ask. Where's a good start for fixing my 90ci boulevard's second gear slipping into neutral? Or alternatively, what would a good quote for a shop price be?
That's super unfortunate. The last quote I got was close to 3K (on the upper end from a guess) because the entire engine has to be removed and opened to get to the transmission. Normally what causes it is a bent shift fork. Luckily, it's not fully broken and you can ride it long as you skip second. It will eventually break and causes more problems in the trans at some point. Safe bet is $2k-2.5K. If you do it yourself, probably a grand for the upgraded aftermarket parts (if you go stock maybe cheaper). But I have nowhere near the expertise to do that. The service manual shows you how to get to that point to replace it, though. It's a very detailed and lengthy job.
@Chad Punte: Before you (or your mechanic) starts tearing down your bike, does it happen only after upshift or downshift? Sometimes changing the lever position by a tooth can reduce gear jumping or false neutrals by allowing your foot to push the lever further.
@@deormanrobey892 unfortunately, no. As I had to tighten that because it came loose and had to manually push the shift lever back towards a neutral position between shifts. The complete diagnosis is that under neutral or minimal load after being sufficiently warmed up second gear with assumed zero clutch imput "falls" into neutral.
Wasn't bad at all. Just have to sit down and go for it. If I didn't check the extra parts for security, would've only needed to change the plates. It's fun, though : )
Gear issues doesn’t involve the clutch plates. Clutch plates weren’t a problem but getting oil to them with the push pin was. Suzuki added an extra plate to the newer 109s clutch basket but I kept mine the standard number. Runs fine.
Thanks for this, totally agree with your tips. Hopefully my replacement is a good ways off :-). If you don't mind me asking, what motor oil are you running?
The synthetic 4T, I'm assuming? I was either going to try that or Amsoil, still deciding, but leaning to the Mobil 1 4T (due to wide availability). I switched a couple of years ago to the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. I had significant oil consumption after moderately hard mountain and combined highway riding after changing to that oil (I had to add a quart of oil before leaving for the trip home, so it used a quart in under 500 miles). This wasn't caused by the overfilling/leaking issue that so many have experienced. I never noticed that it used any oil prior to that (I was running Castrol then, I believe). I have since read that some others say they've experienced similar with synthetic and/or the heavier 50 weight oil (a wide variety of mixed opinions and experiences on that one, let me tell you). Do you have any significant consumption with yours? Sorry for all these questions!
@@bw6480 Nah, maybe half/full quart over time. Takes awhile. I switch between the 20W-50 and the 10W-40 depending on the season. I normally switch to the thicker oils during the hotter season and swap to the other in the winter.
Great video. I very much appreciate your tips and recommendations. I know it’s been said on other comments but 40k on a stock clutch seems low. I’m in the same situation. My bike is a 13 with just over 41k and I’m thinking about replacing the clutch. I just replaced my clutch cable the broke during a trip. But no matter how much I adjust the cable I can’t seem to move the engagement zone further back on the clutch lever. In my mind I’m thinking it’s a clutch wear issue. Do you have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated brother. Thank you again for the video and links. Stay safe.
Thank you for your reply. Yes I did try adjusting the cable just yesterday. But after riding it today I think I actually made it worst. Not the back tire locks if I go into first with to much speed. It never did that before. As for the clutch cable it is new. I replaced it a few months back when it broke on the first day of a 9 day trip. I had to ride my bike home with a pice of string and vice grips on the clutch lever. Holiday weekend and everything was closed. But my clutch was the same way even with the only cable. If anything the new cable made it worse. I would be crazy grateful for any advice you have. I have never worked on a motorcycle clutch or a clutch on anything for that matter. Any help would be very much appreciated.
@@BrandonBicasso I have a new gasket on the way. I plan to pull the cover off the clutch and try to aghast it. Question, when you did yours did you drain all the oil first or just some of it? Last question. Do you know anything about the throttle return spring? For same reason my throttle doesn’t reset after I let go of it. Most times I got to twist off the throttle. Could this be an issue with a spring? Any ideas would be helpful and I would be extremely grateful. Thank you for your help. Respect 🫡
@@georgeyoung2336 Inside the clutch there is also a clutch pin adjustment, when the cables stretch this can move out of spec so if you can't get it adjusted correctly between the 2 ends of the cable that might be your next thing to look at. If its an 06 or 07 you may have a loose basket nut.
Make sure you grab a copy of the manual from the link in the description. It’s not difficult but not cross threading the exhaust bolts is the main concern. The bolts are in a tight space so just be patient. Also, you’ll want the exhaust off so you can line up the new gasket for the cover and to get the torque pattern correct. They have to go on in a specific order so you don’t warp the gasket or cover. Nothing scary, just follow the order.
Did you do the clutch pin mod when you grind 3 sides down? Also I'm reading a lot of different opinions on how to adjust the clutch pin. Some say screw in to seat then out 1/4 turn. Others 1/2 turn. 1 turn. Ect. So these plates need to be in any sort of direction when you remove them? Are there any markings?
No, plates just slot in the same order, no markings. I didn’t do the push pin mod. I had clutch shudder awhile ago but haven’t had it after changing my oil more frequently along with the plates. And I went by the manual’s directions on adjusting the screw.
@@BrandonBicasso Appreciate the response Brandon. Really appreciate the effort you put into the videos. I've watched a few now. It's really helped me get better acquainted with my m109r. Been working on Harleys for years andbim re learning things with this bike. I'm gonna pull mine apart tomorrow. My issue is I thought my clutch was slipping because it was really bad. Turns out someone said that the clutch lever play needs to be checked at full throttle. Sure as shit I noticed the clutch lever tightening when I cracked the throttle which in turn was putting too much pressure on my clutch cable. Now I'm wondering if the clutch pin backed off and is allowing too much play? Have you noticed your clutch slack tightening at open throttle? If so how much? This has me wanting to open my basket to see what's going on but like I said. This bike is way different them most Harley big twins.
@@jaybourbon8608 it wouldn’t hurt to check the tube nut and basket but you’d have to readjust that push pin. The manual is easy to follow for average people so someone who already works on bikes shouldn’t have a problem. I’d check the free play at the lever end and at the lower end. I’ve had that bolt loosen from the bottom and completely lose the clutch. I’ve been tracking a problem lately similar to clutch drag but I think my issue is more electrical and related to my fuel tuner.
@@BrandonBicasso So get this Brandon. When I first rode the bike that little button behind the clutch lever was angled because the tab that holds it in place broke. It shifted and was getting caught between the lever and the clutch perch. I had to replace that first off. Thought that was my main issue. I checked the lower adjustment and it's good. Everything is tight. So you gotta tell me. Do you notice your clutch lever tightening up and taking out the slack in the lever when you nail the gas? Mine really tightens up a lot. That's what has me so concerned but I'm hearing these bikes do this? Can you confirm?
The gears in mine do not start when it warms up. I can't shift into first gear. Only when I lightly let go of the clutch handle, it enters. When I move, they go up and down without a problem. You had that?
@@BossBike sounds like your clutch cable is not adjusted properly. Do you have a copy of the manual? I would adjust that first before taking the clutch panel off. You’ll need a new clutch cover gasket if you do that. I have a copy of the manual in the description of the video.
@@BrandonBicasso I've thought about it, but it turns out to be ok. The play is well set. Yesterday, when I was downshifting at a standstill, the display showed 5,4,3,2 and each time downshifting was delayed by a second. As if in slow motion.
Hey Brandon thanks for the tips. I’m preparing to do the same job on my 9. I just went to my dealership and there doesn’t appear to be an OEM clutch kit. The price for all plates and springs is over 700 individually from Suzuki. How/where did you get your clutch components?
