Awesome job guys. This will help a lot of people who might not want to admit they don't quite understand all of the geo terms that get thrown around on rides, shops and of course, the internet.
We are dropping "Part 2: MTB Drivetrains | Derailleurs, Chains, & Chainrings" next Monday, May 3rd! Make sure to subscribe to our channel and turn on notifications so you don't miss it! Prefer reading and having pictures? Check out our corresponding blog post: www.fanatikbike.com/blogs/engage/mtb-frame-geometry-suspension-how-it-works-affects-your-ride
It means for me being 6’3 with 36.5” inseam, used to ride an xl with a 120mm stem to get it to fit. Now I can run a 50mm stem and have an actual bike that fits. Well I should say 485 reach 639 stack 645 top tube effective. I could go xxl but I don’t know where any are to try I usually have the biggest bike, to me it’s perfect but when someone else gets in it’s evident that my bike is massive to them at 170/170 travel. To me it’s proportional, to a 5’6” person 170/170/ would probably feel huge and sluggish. When you get technical on bikes just literally don’t look at the size at all’s,m,l,xl,ect. Look at the numbers get some sticks and tape together a mock bike I say where you can generally get an idea where things are at. I’ll take an old bike let’s say sit on the seat and tape some dowels together and physically measure the reach stack and get an basic idea of where things are at, it’s archaic to do that but if you are in my position and every one around you calls a large a huge bike, I just hit my knee in the handle bar dude. But when you do ride a bike learn it’s geometry, highlight what you like, and what you would change, and when looking for another bike, ( you laugh now but yes buy another bike) this time after riding for a year you know your needs and then you can say things like, I want a longer rear chain stay to go with that reach, or the opposite, I can’t get back far enough so I opted for a short chain stay high stack shorter reach bike? Over biked is a term I don’t use as I feel my Capra for me is a beast enduro bike, but I’m used to a card 450 with 12 inch travel at 205lbs. So this feels very nimble to me. But I’m the one riding a wheelie up the climb and racing the way down. Get a bike based on your needs, not to look cool, I’m an enduro rider, and I push it to the limit. Don’t get and enduro and complain that it doesn’t pedal like a xc bike, get an xc bike and stop complaining. Don’t get an enduro bike because you think it’s like riding on a cloud, so plush, but I can’t do anything on it cuz I’m not strong enough or do anything to push the bike but man I look cool and I can sit down the whole decent? My favorite is passing a xc bike on the climb with my Capra. Then on the way down putting so much distance in them there is no chance they can keep up.
Hi dan! I haven't seen many bikes with coil-sprung rear end on this channel. Tbh i don't remember if there was any. So I have a question for you. Why is that? Have you ever ridden coil shock? How did you liked it?
Hi Jcob. We're gonna release my coworker Rich's bike check later this week, he's actually running a Push Elevensix (I'll keep what bike he has a surprise 😉). I've also run plenty of coil shocks, and currently have an older DHX2 on my downhill bike. They primarily don't get seen as much because they are substantially heavier than air shocks, and most of the bikes that we see are trail bikes where weight is a consideration. They ride wonderfully though (although not compatible with all bikes), and require less maintenance than air shocks. Hopefully that helps a little. Check out our Build Gallery, which has plenty of trail bikes with coil shocks. www.fanatikbike.com/blogs/build-gallery - Dan at Fanatik
Great question! That is correct, although technically, "reach" doesn't extend all the way to the seattube. It stops where it meets the vertical line coming up from your bottom bracket, as seen at 1:40. The "effective top tube" would be the accurate term for what you're describing as the "reach line." As it seems you've realized, this does mean that taller riders who would run the saddle above that point have a smaller "effective" seat tube angle, and would have their weight further back over the rear wheel. So, the actual seattube angle can still be an important thing to know, especially if you have a very long inseam for your height. Cheers - Dan at Fanatik
Here's the blog post. Same info, but has pictures if you prefer reading/looking at pictures. I find that's easier sometimes. www.fanatikbike.com/blogs/engage/mtb-frame-geometry-suspension-how-it-works-affects-your-ride
@@FanatikBikeCo Thanks for that. I definitely understand ETT and reach, but didn’t know ETT is where STA was measured from. I guess that makes the most sense!
Hi there, just wondering what you’d recommend for a transition patrol carbon 2019 shock wise. Iv blown my dhx2 with a progressive spring and need to replace it. I’m trying to choose between a 2021 x2 or dhx2. What do you think would work best on the bike? Like have any of the guys in the shop used either in a patrol or from perhaps customer experience ?
Hmm, that's not a question I've encountered before, and I don't know enough about dirtbike parts to give you a good answer. MTB stems have either a 31.8mm or 35mm handlebar clamp diameter, and the fork's steertube is 1 1/8th"
