@@3x3CustomTamar I like to mess with the Starbucks folks and give them a weird name and make it extra hard for them. I'll tell them my name is something like "Yannas but with an H" and won't tell them how to spell it. 2 can play the whole "name butchering" game!
When using wood clamps on the drill press to hold things..... I found it helped a lot when i glued sand paper onto the wood clamps. Cuts way down on pieces slipping.
Well done! I was racking my brain on this kind of issue. What you did is smart, simple et efficient. It looks to be an easy trick to design, therefore it means it's a brilliant idea.
I wish i saw this video before yesterday. I messed up my work trying to drill holes on a chamfer. thanks for the video. look forward to the adjustable version.
I Didn't Even Want to Make This Jig, But Just Had to Watch. Good Job! I would not want to make the holes 90° like some have suggested, as the holes in the end grain would be cross grain, and bits would wander and the joint is not as strong as 100% face grain. That's why we were taught to make angled tenons when doing hand work. I don't know of an angled dowel jig, except for a 45° Dowel Max attachment, so this is a perfect one time jig. Good Job. I do do like seeing your mistakes, as we only learn from mistakes. Oh, and by the way to keep bits from wandering in end grain, follow up the awl hole with a small pilot hole, about a 16th, then you can even follow up with a slightly larger bit, like 1/4 to get you started, which is what I was taught by Paul Sellers in Waco, Texas many years ago.
It’s wonderful! I have been asked even engineers but you have shown practically just simple demo to understand! Expecting more and more ideas from you mam
I've been trying to figure out how to do this for a few days now. I was starting to get nervous because my deadline is really close, I'm going to make this jig when I get home thank you so much.
The first video I watched on this subject at it was great. When I have more time and my shop setup properly I'll be doing these kinds of jigs. For now I think I'm going to mortis and tenon my current project because it will be easier for me. Thank you for the amazing and straight to the point video!
Nice jig Tamara, Actually, very timely for me. I was just searching for methods to insert angled dowels two days ago. This would have helped me then, but i like your solution better than the one I found and will put it to use in the future. Thank you for the clear visual presentation and the straight-forward-easy-to-follow information.
Very nice. I'm just about to start a project that needs a 15 degree dowelled joint similar the one for your desk project. This jig looks a lot easier than the over-engineered one I thought I was going to need. The only "clever" thing I'll add is to use the miter saw, which was already set up to cut the pieces to be joined, to cut the block for the jig. That way it's already the exact same angle as the project parts, even if it was initially set up a degree or two off one way or the other. On a side note... This is from 2019??? How have I not seen this for all this time? 😀
I could use a verity of words to describe this process, however I believe that brilliant, is more appropriate then any other choice of words. Kudo's Tamar
To make the reusable, you could drill the holes larger, and insert a metal tube with the inner diameter you want your dowels to be. As for being adjustable, attach rods to the outer guides that can slide through the jig for width changes, and run some bolts through that hit the side of the jig to stop the sides from sliding back in. If you want the angle to be adjustable, I’m unfortunately at a loss for that at the moment.
That's a brilliant jig Tamar😊 since don't have a table saw the 10°angle cut can be done on a mitre saw ( possibly a stupid question)😄. Thank you so much
Oooooh! The small block at the start: Get a 'centre punch' which is much better than a stole (awl) for marking then get an 'Engineer's Vice' for the vertical drill (drill press stateside). Stoles are pretty hard on your hands and joints and the vice will save you time too.
Your quite the inspiration doing this. Your pretty good. Keep it up. You have re inspired some old ideas I've had put on the back burner for quite some time. Will get stuck into them when I get back to work next week . Plenty of scrap and offcuts at work I can use. Cheers !!
I like the air activated hand warmers by Heat Factory. Put one in each pocket and warm up between cuts. They are a nice size to hold in frozen fingers.
Thanks, Tamar, was just trying to work out something that this will solve. I wouldn't bother trying to make an adjustable jig as it is so easy to make the one-off jig to the specific size needed..
Great vid! I find that Forsner bits have more rigidity do better with not wandering in an angled entry into the workpiece along with being more predictable in drilling endgrain than a Brad point.
What a simple idea! I think it would be quite difficult to make an adjustable jig accurate enough using just wood, in particular getting the angle right. I suppose it would be easy enough to make a set of jigs with different spacing for the dowels but getting it centre on the end of the stock is going to be the difficult part, as with anything that's adjustable, getting the tolerances small enough for it to be repeatable is where the difficulty is. But if anyone can come up with a simple jig, I'm sure it'll be you!
Thanks! I def would have to use other materials other than wood. Especially since drilling into the wooden holes expands them over time. I’ll think about it!
That is so cool, i saw a few like that flat and this one angled amazed me. You have such cool videos. May it be improved with metal internal pipes so it last longer?
Hi Tamar. My name is Renê, from Brazil. I fallow your channel, which I like so much! I did a jig to make hole in angles (45) inspired on yours. I would really appreciate if you show as an adjustable one, if you develop it. Thank you for sharing your great ideas!!
I drill the dowel holes with them at 90 then cut the angles into the wood. If it is a pretty sharp angle or thin stock then my method doesn't work very well and this jig would be a great alternative
Refreshing to see an American working with wood that doesnt use excess glue, clamp, then nail and and the screw joints (like Norm the TV presenter on Yankee Workshop - not a joiner)
you know, i was just on RU-vid this morning thinking "it seems like it's been a little while since Tamar has posted a video", then what do you know, the next time I get on Facebook, Angled Dowel Joinery! :)
Couldn't you have drilled the 2 dowel holes in the horizontal piece (using a conventional dowel jig) BEFORE you cut it at an angle, and then used the 'waste' from that as a template to drill the 2 dowel holes in the vertical piece (probably again using a dowel jig, since the 2 pieces together are squared)?
I have to say you are quickly becoming my favorite RU-vidr, as you have a really good neat artistic eye. My only concern is that you should keep your sleeves as far away from the saws you use. It's very dangerous as they may get caught by a blade, and you will get pulled into it. I would hate to see you get hurt. Please post more often, I love your projects.
Greetings. I wanted to ask you the following question. What is the thickness of the thinnest and thickest shavings that you remove with the jointer plane (manual) and with the bench plane or thicknesser .
For a multi-use version, purchase metal, copper or brass tubes with an ID of the dowel your using, enlarge the holes on the jig to match the OD of the tube, and epoxy the tubes inside the enlarged holes.
So many good videos like this still have 1% thumbs down and there is not really a reason for it I can see. Maybe youtube should make it a requirement to leave a comment to say why the video was voted down?
all you have to do is cut 3/8 inch copper tube and hammer them inside the holes so they last longer or they will wear off from the drill gun after a few holes you make.
