I feel like a broken record but this channel is one of the single most concise and well spoken and thus informative channels I have ever found for any of my hobbies and interests. It’s truly remarkable and I for one am very grateful to have it. Thank you so much.
Thank you for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment, I really do appreciate it and it brings me joy to know that my videos are helping others and that they are useful. Thanks again and happy birding, Cheers, Duade
The best part about your videos is that besides using the latest R5 you also use an old trustee 40D to photograph the wildlife which gives users like us a proper idea that how to take better shots using the old DSLRs we already have.
You will get better results with better equipment. If you aren’t trying to get paid for your work you can get very good results with less expensive equipment. A used 1Dx is still a great camera at a good price. Canon 7D II can be had for $500 and get pro results with good lenses. EF400 f5.6 also
Duade, there are RU-vidrs, and there are knowledgeable, helpful, great trainer/instructor, RU-vidrs. You are the consummate professional. You communicate clearly. You're easy to follow with ALL your presentations. If I could hand out degrees to "professors" at "RU-vid University" you would receive a "PhD". I reckon another favorite part of all your tutorials is your Australian accent, combined with an occasional photo of a Galah. You are a GREAT resource for learning MORE about photography. Roger...Pebble Beach, California
Roger, thank you so much for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment, I really am grateful for the feedback and support. I am happy to hear you find the videos helpful and I do plan on doing more educational videos in the future. Thanks again, Cheers, Duade
I shoot in manual mode all the time and you definitely nailed it when explaining the auto metering. The hard part about shooting in manual are when the birds are in flight. But Shoot enough manual, it becomes super easy.
I usually shoot in manual with auto iso. It’s just much quicker to get the correct exposure especially since I use a dslr and need to use live view to check exposure. I usually use spot metering and the camera gets it right most of the time. But in harsh lighting situations I might just switch to full manual.
Brilliant video. I started in manual. Failed miserably. Then moved to shutter priority. Was underexposing the photos and was also editing. Now at aperture priority. Pretty happy with this. Will now graduate to manual mode.
If your camera supports exposure compensation in manual mode use it - your work will be 10x easier. Ie, just leave the is on auto, and adjust the exposure as necessary. Fully manual shutter, aperture and iso, is just too unnecessarily hard.
They are very similar when you think about it, you set your Aperture and SS and then adjust one dial. In Auto ISO you adjust the exposure comp, in manual you simply turn the ISO dial left or right. They effectively work the same as in you are just adjusting one dial. As I mentioned earlier, there is no right or wrong way to set your exposure and I encourage trying all these different modes and choosing the one that is right for you. Cheers, Duade
Aditya, I highly encourage you to also try Exposure Compensation whilst in Shutter Priority as this will help with stopping underexposed images. Manual is also great to understand how all the settings work together. Cheers, Duade
i am an amateur photographer but i started with manual mode + auto iso...I do so because i feel more comfortable with my settings than the smart features of the camera. and you are awesome in everything you share
This is a really useful explanation on exposure in general, Duade. One thing for me is that you touched on things my Canon is doing and I was not understanding why, and why I could not do anything about it. With this video, I understand my camera better. I don't recall this info being in the camera's manual. Thanks so much for creating and sharing this video.
Awesome video Duade! The best part was the in the field examples. Seeing the conditions and then how you set up everything makes it easier for me to comprehend. I’ll be saving this one to watch again!
Duade This video has been a game changer for me, It has forced me to learn more about my camera and I now have some processes to take full control with my Canon 90D. Thanks
Great video! I shot mostly AP and TV in the past with my DSLRs when in the field (Manual in the studio), largely because they were awful at high ISO. Now that I have an R7, I’m working to find the best button setup for me to quickly make manual adjustments in the field without missing the bird. This is a good explanation for those who have never used manual to get the knowledge they need to break into the next level.
Hi Duade...I am really glad that I found your channel...very informative and not boring...great teaching techniques and visual props are a huge help.l.I just bought a Canon 80d, and although I have taken pretty decent photos, I love learning more about all the settings....thank you so much 💯💯💯👍👍👍
Another useful video Duade, I use auto ISO and the only difference to your settings is I’ve set dial 2 to Exposure Compensation which really works for me. Keep the videos coming and thank you
Thanks Roger, yes that makes sense to put it on a single dial. I don't use the mode usually so just quickly adapted the camera to make it work. Cheers, Duade
Another good and helpful video. Curious to know, when using a telephoto, if spot metering would be a less complicated way to start along with your suggestions. Thanks again.
Thanks Mark, yes, it could be, but it does still have the challenge that if the bird is white it will want to make it too dark, and if the bird is black it will want to make it too bright. In the end if you use auto ISO or any auto exposure mode you will need to use exposure compensation if the camera gets it wrong. Cheers, Duade
Thanks again Duade for another great video which demystifies some of these fundamental aspects of photography. Can't wait to get out and try these different ways of working. Best wishes and keep up the great work 👏👏
Great show.! Thank you sir. I think it's great that after your explanation, you went out and shown you actually doing it and I really enjoyed that you included an older canon camera. I'm going to subscribe to your channel. I've seen a few of your shows and I think you do a great job. I shoot a Canon 7d with a sigma 70-200 f/2.8. I'm thinking about a lens for night photography if you might have a suggestion.?? I prefer Sigma or Tamron with stabilization. Thank you.
Hi Jenky, I don't have a lot of experience with Astro photography unfortunately. The Sigma 150-600C is a nice lens and would be good for moon shots. Cheers, Duade 👍
Excellent video. Such a good explanation and example of all the relationships between shutter, iso etc and use of the histogram. I need to use the histogram more !
Great video and presentation Duade! I have a quick question for you. What metering mode do you usually shoot with? Or which one would you recommend someone should start with? Again, thanks for sharing all these invaluable tips! Best regards!
Duane, thank you for posting this particular video. Of all the adjustments to be made while shooting in manual, I have completely forgotten about setting my aperture! Going to work on that for sure. I use the histogram, but occasionally I forget to pay attention to what it is telling me. Thanks for all of your help!
Hi Duane, perfect video for starters like me. Best video on exposure in the field I have seen so far, will put your advice into practice. As you have mentioned the only way to improve is to get out there and take photo's and then some more, Review try again. Thx Duane keep the videos coming.
I’m still in the learning curve with mirrorless in utilizing the histogram in adjusting exposure for the conditions. I tend to see shutter and aperture as constants and let the ISO float and that means hitting the compensation button. But your advice has me thinking of alternatives when some conditions allow. Going to give it a try as shutter and aperture are easier to adjust on the fly when ISO is locked.
Another great video. The amount of information along with the field applications will have me watching it several times. Now I need to get out in the field and apply and practice. Thanks.
Great video: I just purchased a 300 2.8 so im excited to be able to shoot in lower light without causing too many issues. I'm new so not sure if you have done a video on White balance?
Another great video, Duade! Thank you for all of the thoughtful, informative and inspirational content. Always look forward to the next one. Great job fully explaining the difficult concept of Manual mode shooting. I use manual + auto iso myself these days, but used others in the recent past. The educational videos are definitely a very nice addition to your collection. I think the Southern Whiteface was my favorite shot this round, but all were very good, I thought. Enjoy the shooting ~
Thank you Dude for the excellent video. Great help for an amateur like me. But I have been struggling with exposure compensation in manual with auto ISO. I have assigned exp. comp. to AF point selection button at the back right corner and use main dial to adjust but have issues with it. Would be of great help if you could show me how and which dial/button have u assigned exp.comp. Thanks once again for the video. keep up the good work
Great stuff- thank you for sharing your knowledge. I usually shoot in Manual but with auto ISO. (and using exposure comp. is almost like shooting in full manual lol)
Absolutely love these educational videos. Having two similar camera bodies in the Canon 90d and R6, im saving for a sigma 150-600 do expand my photography to include bird photography. Do you think this lens is good for both, or should I just concentrate on the R6 and buy the RF 100-400?
Tony, that is a tough one, the Sigma and 90D would make for a fantastic birding combo if you need reach. But the 100-400 on the R6 is just a dream in terms of weight, sharpness and AF. Unfortunately, 400mm is just a little too short for pure birding. Let's hope Canon comes out with the 90D in a mirrorless body. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade I agree. It is a tough choice. I’ve got a converter on the R6 so could use the sigma on both. Being a surfer and living in the coast I have another interest in surfing photography where I definitely need the reach. It’s a compromise I guess for me.
hi Duane this may seem stupid can't get my histogram come to check what im doing most of the time I used AF but ive changed to manual and raw so I need to get my histogram up ,
David, if you are still using the 7D2 you need to push the info button a few times when the image pops up on the rear lcd after the shot. I think that should cycle through from the entire image to one with the image and the histogram and some other details. Cheers, Duade
i have been having this problem with sharpness as i go in the picture to 1:1 , is low value ISO makes the subject seems hazy, i mean edges don t look sharp to the background ... shutter speed 1/250, good light condition, aperture 7.1, ISO 1250 .... 600mm focal lens canon 6d
How do I find a good Bird and Animal lens for Nikon D850 if I cannot afford a new 400mm F2.8 or 500/600mm F4.0 telephoto lens? I have an old AF 300mmF2.8 IF-ED screwdrive AF lens that work well on a D300 (DX) camera, Today I have a D700 after the D300 broke down and saving for a secound hand D850. Also I have a AF-S 200mmF2.0 VR. I'm mostly into woodland photo but sometime I take animal pictures with a Fuji x-t1 with a 55-200 mm cheap lens.
Thomas, the Sigma 150-600C would be a great wildlife lens, you will need to stop it down to f8 for max sharpness which may cause higher ISO in the forest. The other option is the Nikon 200-500 which is a bit heavier and shorter than the Sigma. The other great lens is the 500 PF which is expensive but a beautiful lens. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thanks for your good advice. The Sigma has a to large minimum aperture. I have used a Tokina 400mm F6.3 when I stared to take photographs but it was unwinding in low light. I'm considering the Nikon alternatives, also If I can find a 2nd hand AFS 400mm F2.8 VR that is affordably. I have a relative that use the Nikon Zoom on D# and Z6ii with good result but I read that it soft at the edges. So maybe the fixed 500mmF5.6E .
For my money, some of the best videos out there. One of the best reasons for shooting manual is when the subject is in constant light, but the background shifts. Exposing the bird correctly means you don't have to worry when a bird in flight goes from a dark background to a light background or vice versa. Thank you, again, for all the great vids.
I’m new to photography. I was rather frustrated until I started watching this channel. Other channels focus on the equipment. My equipment isn’t the most expensive. It is sooooo comforting when you pull out an older camera and show us that it isn’t always about the equipment. THANK YOU!
Another great video! I believe just about everything I've learned has come from you! You just have this way about you that makes your videos interesting and informative and not boring. If you get the time I would really appreciate a video on how to get close to your subjects. Tips and techniques that you use. Thank you for all of your hard work!
Thank You so much what a fantastic video to educate on the complicated formula for correct exposure...you have mastered the setting well, and your images are amazing. I was very happy to see you pull out your old Canon and do the demonstration. I shoot Nikon, and am thinking I need to go mirrorless...but my budget is not saying yes. I think the more I work with all the tools you have shown and how to get "better" results that I can put off the purchase of the Z 6II or Z 7II...always good to know everything one can do to imporve with out spending lots of $$$. So happy I have stumbled onto your channel...I am hooked!
Thanks Sheila, that is great to hear, yes, older gear is still very much capable of taking wonderful shots. Mirrorless will continue to improve and I think Nikons mirrorless D500 will be an excellent camera to wait for. Cheers, Duade
Yet once again great content (love the idea of the how to`s Duade. will be watching this over and over iam sure. sure learned alot here, and I get what your saying I used to set the camera which was a 50D (still own it and still gets some great images) and got a great photo and the next one, a mile away same settings and couldn't figure out why i had such a great photo with the settings i used da!! lol. couldn't figure out hey Dave you have to change for different scenes ya dumbass lol. but thank god i am getting it after many years trial and error. iam now doing bald eagle photography but iam having such a problem in getting most in flight excited forsure on getting it sharp but iam practicing more and had a few the other day that came out pretty good iam getting there . thanks again love each and every video you put out there i have learned so very much from your content and its the best out there as far as iam concerned i now have the R7 and the canon F11 800mm and wow!! keep getting the code 70 error but thats another story but getting some great animal phocus shots its a huge learning curve with this camera R7 but l will, get there maybe you can do a run with this new one i knew you hit the preorder in a video you made i personally love this camera for the low light night photography awesome shots with it its almost like i have it trained already to capture stars colour not blown out just awesome. thanks again bud ~sincerely Dave Canada
Thanks for the comment Dave, I appreciate you taking the time to let me know you find the videos helpful. Congrats on the R7 and 800 f11, a great kit, Cheers, Duade
On my 1DX MKIII I go Manual + Auto ISO, then I always adjust the Expo Compensation to what the BG is doing behind the subject. i.e + for bright, - for darker. I have set the "star" button, which I hold then adjust on the back of the cam. One question regards using the EVF on the mirrorless bodies. How do you get on looking through them ?. When I did try out the R5 once, the small EVF looked terrible up to what your eyes see looking through a DLSR view finder, or even looking at the back of the screen!. Did it take you long to get used to seeing a monitored image of what you were photographing?
Yes, the difference was noticeable when I started and it took awhile for my brain to adapt, I was seeing the lag between shots but somehow my brain has adapted, and I don't even notice now. The live exposure really is incredible as is the eye tracking. I think the thing I miss the most is the shutter noise, I'm happy the R3 has an audible shutter option. Cheers, Duade
Very nice video. First of its kind , I have ever seen on exposure triangle. Well done Duade. 👏. Kind of same progression I went through like you explained towards the end. Bow down to your humbleness and simplicity of explanation.
Question Duade, I use the R3 and quite often if I don't have enough reach with my lens I switch to shoot in 1:6 crop mode. I find it saves having to crop post. Have you tried this and if so, what are your thoughts??
Phil, yes, using crop mode can be useful if the bird is very small and you want it bigger in your viewfinder. There is no difference between cropping in post or in camera. I usually crop in post as I often forget to turn it off and wouldn't want to clip a wing or similar. What I would like is the ability to use 1.6 crop mode in the viewfinder but capture the FF. Cheers, Duade
The histogram issue was an unclear issue for many people. You did clearly emphasised how to be. Now it is our turn to implement and practice the knowledge. Thanks for such great presentation and practice ones again Duade. Btw, the red capped bird is amazing. She played the role perfectly. No idea if you are paying her 😂.
Really just full of great information!!! Glad I found you... I subscribed. Your graphics screens and the histograms REALLY make a difference. Currently I haven't used histograms on the screen, but I'm going to from your demonstration!!!! MANY THANKS!!!
When I was working [motorsport] what was impossible to meter was a car/motorcycle driving with headlights on, you had to be full manual, which was a pain when the light was going up and down. I started out in the seventies, film, 100/200/400, groan. Now life is almost a dream, I mean, 12,800 ISO! But I tend to under expose by 2/3 stop, after all you can pull detail from the shadows but never recover blown highlights. These days software makes a lot of difference too, I had stopped using my 7Dii, but now, with Topaz denoise AI I am using it a little more.
Thanks for a great video. This is so so helpful. I have a 5D4 so finding it hard not to be able to see histogram. I am very new to wildlife photography. Can I ask what settings you would suggest for dark, medium and bright when using a a 5D4 with 70-200 f2.8? I am struggling with nailing correct exposure so any tips would be fantastic thanks. I live in NZ and my goal is to get some awesome pics of the elusive and difficult to shoot NZ Rock Wren. I want to nail my skills before heading south to try find this small guy 😊
G'day Bryan, congrats on getting into wildlife photography. With the Rock Wren you are likely to be in very dark conditions. I would probably start at ISO1600, f2.8 and check your SS, if it is low like 1/200 then perhaps up your ISO to 3200. You may find 200mm on the 5d4 is a little short in terms of focal length. Another lens worth considering is the Sigma 150-600C or the EF400 5.6 or EF100-400 IS II, these would both give you a lot more reach. Good luck with it, Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade. I live in Chiltern, so I have plenty of bird opportunities close by. I have a Sony A99Ii full frame and A77 crop sensor and Sigma 5.6 500. Am I better off with crop sensor to fill the frame more? If there is some distance to the subject, I definitely notice quality loss by pixel loss when cropping fUll frame. Your thoughts? Great video by the way. I prefer auto ISO knowing to be aware it will be high in dull conditions and suck it up. Cheers
David, this is a really interesting question and can be difficult to answer. In good light the APSC body does give you that advantage of reach and I suspect the bird will have better detail due to more pixels on the subject. However, in low light the APSC body will display a fair amount of noise. If you have a toy bird or similar you could do some tests yourself and check the images side by side. Just be sure to take some longer distance shots to see the effect of the crop. I hope Canon comes out with an APSC mirroless and I will do these tests also. Cheers, Duade
Thanks for this Duade. Really appreciate your videos. I've got an R6. Photographed some Kangaroos today. Wasn't as sharp as I wished... Kept getting the over exposure warning you mentioned here, but I had no idea what that was and am glad I know now! :D Thanks again.
Very interesting video Duade. Thank you. I always struggle when photographing birds in flight. Reason is, that i do not know beforehand if a black bird or a white bird will fly by, so sometimes I have it wrong and there's no time to change a setting while the bird flies by. Question: which monitor do you use on your camera?
Duade thanks for the information you provide on your videos, in my experience, since 2010 that I've been taking bird pictures, I did use Manual on my DSLRs but today I prefer the semiautomatic modes (Aperture Priority) and then chose compensation according the scene lighting, since most of the time the lighting may change as clouds pass by. Not jumped yet to the mirrorless boat, but probably there it's easier to use manual and have the Histogram on the viewfinder and give a more accurate reading of the scene.
Hi Duade, Ashamed to say I just removed my lens hood and extender which allowed me to set 2.8 and lower ISO at 1/4000. Still can't zoom in for tack sharp images. Held lens as well which helped.
Is there a reason you have to use 1/4000? I assume it is to freeze the wings, you may just have to use a lower SS to keep the ISO down. I would try the 2x to make the subject much bigger and use noise reduction software like DXO Pure RAW if the noise is high. Sometimes we just have to accept the challenges of our gear and the restrictions we face. Cheers, Duade
Hello Duade! A very interesting course on photography you gave us here! I am sorry, but I didn't quite get it with the Albatross, (we can photograph them during our winter in the oceanic waters) So, when the scene is like the one you had there, you lowered the whites by setting the exposure , lets imagine, to F8. But how did you manage to get the water clearer and not darker as well?? Please help me with this? On the other hand due to winds over the ocean we do need to use quite high speeds, usually not least than 1/1200 (and that is kind of a low speed) ... Geez, sorry, but this kind of photo confuses me when I have to make them! Thank you very much! Best wishes and regards, Daniela.
Hi Daniela, with dark blue water the cameras meter will try to brighten the scene as the water is darker then middle grey. If you have a white Albatross against the dark blue ocean when the camera makes the scene brighter the Albatross will be much brighter also meaning the whites are blown. You would need to dial in negative exposure compensation if shooting in Auto ISO or Aperture Priority. The only issue with this is as soon as the Albatross flys into the bright sky the camera will do the opposite, it will make the scene darker as the sky is brighter then middle grey so you would likely need to have some positive exposure compensation otherwise the bird will be too dark. I know this is very confusing but you can put the exposure compensation on a dial. So lets say the Albatross is on the dark water, simply turn the exp comp dial until it is say -2/3rds, take a shot, check the histogram on the back, make sure no pixels are hitting the right hand side. if you have a mirrorless the exposure will be live in the viewfinder making it much easier. Once the bird takes off into the sky you can quickly adjust the exp comp dial to say +1/3rd and take some shots, check the exposure again. Once you do this a few times you should know what the best settings are as they are unlikely to change. So you can quickly adjust between the bird on the water and the bird in the sky. Cheers, Duade
Really excellent. I think this was such a well laid out video. It’s great to have a method to set up, and a good reminder to constantly monitor the light. I’d love more videos like this.
Thanks again Duade, it is slowly sinking in, so happy , for me your teaching style is perfect. Sorry for the gear questions. I am considering the benefit for me of an on top camera monitor. Which one have you chosen and do you reccommend it? I am shooting Nikon D500 BTW, thank you in advance..
David, I only use the monitor for RU-vid purposes, I don't use it when not filming. I am also unsure how live view mode works on the D500 in regards to focusing and FPS etc. I would likely stick with the viewfinder, Cheers, Duade
Love your Content and the beautiful Images of all those awesome Birds. I´ve just found your channel and been binge watching for the last three days. Great to see a bit of your local wildlife. I´m from Germany so it is really cool and educational to see something from your side of the World. Im just starting with wildlife Photography as a Hobby so thank you so much for your guidance.
G'day, I would likely struggle as I don't have any experience using film except for when I was young ;-) But I would hope the exposure fundamentals would be very similar and understanding how to use a light meter and the dynamic range of the film would be very important. Like anything you need to invest a lot of time in something to understand it and at this stage I don't have a film camera or time to invest in it. I have a lot of respect for those who do photograph wildlife in film. Cheers, Duade
It takes a huge amount of time to make a video like this. Great video. Anyone know why cameras don’t have a ‘protect the highlights’ setting? That would stop iso/shutter speed/aperture from opening too much and allowing the whites to clip?
Thanks Shanon, yes, I suspect this could be a software feature in the future, they have zebras in video and some cameras have it in stills where you can see the clipping, it would not be hard for the camera to change the exposure until there is no clipping. Good idea, Cheers, Duade
Really enjoy these educational videos … really helps me move forwards with my thinking and practice … I know you are mostly into your birds, as am I (although badgers are right up there for me) but I wondered whether you had a preferred macro lens … I use a 77D currently although one of the reasons I found you is that I am looking to move mirrorless, but not yet … I have looked at the canon 100mm and lots of reviews suggest it’s the best lens for macro … would be pleased to hear your view?
Thanks Phil, I am glad you enjoy the videos, I have not done any type of Macro photography unfortunately but I do plan on buying the rf85mm f2 macro is stm which I believe is an affordable option for the RF system should you upgrade to mirrorless. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
No mention of using a shutter speed that's at least the reciprocal of focal length? Or do you think image stabilization makes that a concept we can ignore? Also, you should tell us about your hat sometime. What's that organization do. Something about friends of some kind of honeyeater is about all I can usually make out. As always good info Duade. Thanks for sharing your insights.
Jack, good point and yes, I do try to follow that rule, but as you know when you lack light we push the boundaries a little bit and go lower. I have a nature covenant on my property and the organisation that facilitates it "Trust for Nature" supply that hats to private landowners that join the program. The Regent Honeyeater is a critically endangered bird that they are trying to help by planting trees in this area. Cheers, Duade
Very enjoyable, thanks, But I found it interesting that with your recommended "exposure flow" starting by setting the aperture first, solely based on ambient light brightness you didn't discuss aperture and depth of field considerations.
Thanks, yes, I should have mentioned how aperture impacts your DOF, for me I always try to stop down to increase sharpness, so I am at around 7.1-9 most of the time. Cheers, Duade
New viewer enjoying your channel! I am wondering why, with a digital lcd screen on your camera, you are using an external monitor??? Keep up the wonderful content! Craig.
And now do all this in a split of a second when you are walking around with the dog and suddenly spot a buzzard flying over you :) Checking Histogram and blinkies is not practical. This is only for photographers waiting for hours for this one buzzard to fly over.
One solution is to set your exposure for the buzzard before it flys over, you could assign that to a custom function so its easy to access. That way you don't need to change anything. Cheers, Duade
About 99.9% of the pics taken I use P and .. A+ and the odd occasion TV when capturing a water scene .. I've found with using the Vivid ..when capturing Birds the images turn out better
Duade, I use to shoot all auto ISO but, now I shoot straight M. I usually leave my aperture set to the sweet spot of the lens (7.1) SS relative to static or BIF, and lastly I move the ISO to the histogram. Am I cheating myself?
Mike, sounds good to me, having to move the one dial like SS or ISO makes it quick in manual to adjust to changing light. Floating ISO or SS is completely fine and use whichever is most natural to you. Cheers, Duade
One thing I do with all my cameras which allow it is reverse the direction (+/-) of the wheels to adjust TV/AV/ISO. Rotating the wheels to the right or left drags the histogram in the same direction.
Hi! I got a EOS Rebel T7/EOS2000D and I can't seem to use exposure compensation in manual mode. I have to go to Av or Tv or whatever. Do you know why this is? I am using AUTO ISO
Hi Dan, just checked that link and it says it does not work in auto iso which seems annoying, Cheers, Duade support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART173805
@@Duade Thanks for responding so fast! That's quite annoying indeed.. I am forced to use Av or Tv mode then for now until I'ill buy a new camera ;l. But thanks again! Awesome vid btw ;)
@@Duade Would you have any suggestions what mode I should use now? I am mostly shooting birds/ light is changing a lot in my shots. If you have time to answer me means a lot thanks !
@@editsbydaan6048 Daan, I used AV when I started but either AV or TV should work, it is just a matter of keeping an eye on the SS to make sure it doesn't go too low. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
Very informative and my goodness those ISOs scare me lol. I am getting better at cranking it up but I dont have an R5 but I figure better to get the shot and see what you can do with it than miss out. Actually auto iso has helped my over the hill with higher iso. When I do use it, then I see how high it went and the image is still workable it is a learning experience. I was always manual and tried auto ISO a few times when I knew it was a shot I needed to get quickly and I find it amazing as to how high it goes and the image is fine. I loved that Spoonbill image with the reflection, I like messing around with dark backgrounds at sunrise, and back lighting with the ponies, its good fun. Thank you again and look forward to the next video.
Thanks Lisa, yes, with modern software we can push those ISO a little higher than previously. Sounds like fun with the horses in the nice light. Cheers, Duade
Great in depth explanation as always! Love your videos... Got the battery charging and will be off within an hour to go out and take some bird shits Kee up the good work!
Ashley, I think Auto ISO is often easier for people to grasp, you will have to setup exposure compensation if using Auto ISO which in the end is very similar to manual. Have a go with Auto ISO and see how you go. Cheers, Duade
Thanks, it takes awhile but I try to answer each comment, not sure how much longer I will be able to do that as it is taking a long time. Yes, I still shoot in manual on mirrorless, it is much easier as we have the live viewfinder to tell us if its too bright or dark. Cheers, Duade
Trick question, you dont... AV with set parameters is how it's done. It's faster. Less time adjusting a setting could be the difference of getting the shot or not
Live histogram in Viewfinder is really such a useful tools! Shooting on dslr we still don't have that luxury. So relli have to depends on our guts and knowledge to set exposure and compensation on the fly
I own a Nikon d300s and i never use bait to get animals where i want so i cant preset my exposure and so on. Most times i Go A mode where i set aperture and the shutterspeed sets on Auto. Animals fly by or show up only few seconds there is no time for Set everything on Manuel for me.
Thanks for sharing, using whatever exposure mode you are comfortable with is the best. As mentioned with a mirrorless it is very easy to change the exposure even between bright and dark. On a DSLR it is much harder. Cheers, Duade
