Thank you SO MUCH for this! I got a spraybooth and the toggle switch had snapped off the housing. I didn't want to mess with soldering, so this is perfect!
Thank you! Where do i get this kind of toggle switch? This one ( i also want) believe is a single pole. I've seen a few variations and the ones I've seen don't have the blade to put wires on neatly, but use tightening with a screw.
Hey Great Video! Quick question, do the toggle switch have a specific negative to positive side or can you hook up up and of the prongs coming off it? Anyone who knows please answer :)
There is no positive or negative side. What you are doing is interrupting the positive signal if that makes sense. Watch this video for an explanation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oI7obIhN2dAh.htmlttps://ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oI7obIhN2dA.html
So as long as the switch can handle more than the motor, light fixtures, etc… is rated, you’re good? No need to match a 15 amp motor with a 15 amp switch, for example? Thanks!
Noon here so I have a dumb question. If I was turning a cigar box into a lamp and the "lamp kit had its own on off switch just under the bulb, but I wanted to add a toggle on/off switch like in this video. Do I just follow the same directions?
I understand everything. But there is no wire diagram nor indicator on where the in/output goes. As Long as I hv a secure connection and dont do anything stupid (hot to neutral etc) will it be ok to hv it backwards? Thx for your time on this video and answering questions! Subscribed
One thing to think about. Will it work to interrupt or beak the neutral? Yes. However, if you don’t break the hot wire, you won’t fully de-energize the thing you are switching. If you break the hot, the device will be de-energized. Does that make sense?
I know it'll work regardless of which wire you add where, but if your hot/neutral wires are separate, is there any advantage to cutting into one vs the other to add your inline toggle?
I just looked through the comments and it lead me to your lights switch vid. My interpretation is that I should be cutting the black (hot) wire to add my toggle switch.
Watch this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iT8TmDgBrZ0.html Besides that, you can actually wire either set of wires meaning you could /either cut 'hot' or 'return'. The result will be the same. There are some that prefer to cut hot (especially in the automotive world) and some prefer to cut return.I prefer to cut hot.
HEY TEACH HELP! I have a RV light fixture which I have determined the push button switch was bad. The lights in this 2008 Keystone Sprinter camper are on a 12v system. The camper is currently on shore power/house current. There is an inverter that converts the system when on battery power. I could not find this tiny switch so I bought another at Ace Hardware. When I disassembled the original switch I wrote down what went to what. Although I should have taken a picture because what was written down does not include the second wire from the switch. This fixture has three lamps and all the whites go to the white wire from the ceiling. The other three white wires go to the hot which in this case is orange/white.In my written description I wrote black from the switch (one side) to to orange/white (hot) and white to three whites. This description excludes the second black wire from the other side of the push button switch. The original switch has a rating of 14VDC 10 amp. So I figured that one side of the switch went to the whites and the other side went to the orange/white (hot reading 12volts) It blew a 15 amp fuse. After doing more research I found that you only put the wires from the switch to one side. First I tried the whites and then the hot orange/white. I didn't blow a fuse but the light just stays on! What am I doing wrong? The switch I bought has this rating on the back-4a 250v 8a 125v, 10a 125vac,1/3hp 125vac Does this switch that I am trying to use need to be rated for DC? -
I don't understand why you have 6 white wires. Typically, you will get 3 whites (one for each light at the light itself, but then it will get reduced to just one wire. Then, from there, it will go to the source or a switch or something. Plus all that wiring is typically at the light fixture and all of it gets boiled down to just two wires going to a switch and only one of those is used by the switch (typically the black or 'hot' wire).
I have the same switch and adding it to a light fixture. The terminal closer to the “on” is for the hot line from power source. The terminal closer to the “off” is the load to the device.
Both answers are correct because you will see both used. If you buy a racing or marine kill switch, you will see it intended for the hot side, not the ground. However, if you installed it on the ground side, there is no way any spark or anything could happen if say a wrench or something conductive accidentally fell on the positive lead of the battery. So, in the end, you could go with either, I choose negative side usually though.
Thank you for sharing this. I know I'm late to the party, but I noticed the main cord has copper wiring and the motor has a silver/grey-colored wire. Is it okay to connect the two, and does anyone know what the grey wire is? Is it aluminum? Thanks all!
Thank you@@JayferRattrap for responding. I know a magnet doesn't stick to it. It looks like galvanized steel, and it seems to have at least some copper in it. I notice it on some older AC motors. Anyway, have a good one man...
Well, you would have to find the power wire and hook that coming into one pin and out of the other. The manual should show you what power wire is. One thing to keep in mind is all the memory setting on the stereo though. Every time you totally cut power like that, you will lose all of those.
Nice presentation however, I want my switch to be further away from the unit I am powering. So does it matter if I add 3 feet to this equation and have the switch further away from the power unit ?
@@JayferRattrap Yes Sir ! Thanks for reassuring me. Same principal applies in residential wiring when the feed is at the light ,you would have to bring the black wire down to the switch like I’m doing.👍
I know nothing of electricals 😂. Can anyone tell me how difficult it would be or if it is worth converting a digitally controlled device (portable air con) into an analog toggle switch device? I basically want to turn it into an automated system. At the moment I have to manually turn it on with a push button and then choose the required function. I'd like this function to automatically start when power turns on. I assume I'd have to by pass circuits too?
My guess is, no matter how you cut power to the device, the automated system always returns to its base setting which is probably to wait until it gets a directive. So I don’t think it would work unless you somehow circumnavigate the digital control.
This appears to be a metal body fan. You really, really should have replaced the two prong cord with a three prong and properly grounded the metal body of the fan while you had it apart.
Yeah you’re right. Sometimes you don’t see the forest through the trees. I was focused on the subject of the video so didn’t think about it honestly. Course it’s been that way since 1960 or whatever so would probably be okay.
@@JayferRattrap Well, we didn’t have seat belts and air bags in the 60s either and we were okay … right up until impact. 😁. It is so simple to make this upgrade when working on an older lamp or fan or such and it really does add a lot of safety should the hot wire in the device come into contact with the metal case.
