Yes, my first time making a bag, using a purchased pattern, was a learning event that took several weeks to grasp how to do it. I watch now to remind myself. I am a 68 year old man, in UK, have been sewing just over two years - still a lot to learn. Best thing that happened - RU-vid videos. Many, many thanks.
Thank you so much for this video. I just very recently made my first very simple bags. They've turned out nicely but I wanted to be able to have a planned size and couldn't figure out how to determine the size to cut the fabric and couldn't find any tutorials that addressed that specifically. Your clear directions are exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! Also loved your tutorial about avoiding a saggy lining. So appreciate you doing these videos!
Being that you made this three years ago you may not see this but you did an excellent job of explaining and even told me why some of my corner have been off. I'll start using tape on them from now on
Finally got to watch this video, excellent explanation! Thank you for taking the time to explain some pro level tips to help make boxed corners look more polished :)
Thanks for the calculations and explaining _why_ it’s best to _not_ stitch the corners at the end - I will take pride in non “pinched corner” boxed bags going forward (and will hide all evidence of prior bags 😁). As alway, great content, thank you.
super helpful! Thanks! I want to make a boxed corner and then put a thick strap along the boxed corners instead of on the face and back of the bag if that makes sense!
The way I’ve seen boxed corners is after sewing bag match up corners (lining side) sew in however far you’d like and then cut the excess fabric off to a 1/4” away from sewn line. Which way is best or do they both work well? Also, I have never heard anyone explain about starting a stitch in so there’s no pinch. It really did make a difference in the final look of the bag. THX!!
so if you were to be doing a lined bag, would you do it the way you would normally (sew up the bag, the lining, then join and birth), or would the lining get sewn in with the exterior pieces? That is to say just sew the exterior and lining all in one operation
This is an awesome tip! I have used Wonder Tape for attaching zippers, but never thought about using it like this...total game-changer! You are a wonderful teacher! Thank you!
Perfect explanation!! Can I run something by you to double check ... I need a cover with a 13" boxed top for a podium cover. (It will side down over the top.). So I need to cut the fabric 13" (body)+ 6.5"+.5" + 6.5" + .5" = 27" x height of podium. Sewing with a 1/2" seam, box should come out at 13"? Thanks for looking this for me.
Also u can use glue stick and press with iron and it will stay too. I just learn this and i know it will help me puttin zipper into as zippers shift too
Again, a great tutorial. I'm sorry that I have so many questions. When I've done my boxed corners, I notice that when I bring the ends together, they just don't meet right. It looks like I didn't cut it right. What gives? Thank you.😃💖
I love your videos! Do you have a formula for the trapezoid that would create a more boxy rather than triangular shape after boxing the corners? Thanks for all your help.
Hello👋🏾. Have you ever tried it with putting the fabric on a fold so you do not have a seam at the bottom and do not have to worry about lining up seams? I’m in the middle of a project that I’m trying that out. I will find out if it’s a good idea or not 😊
Great demo. Where do you get you leather tape from? I'm looking for a new tablet would you mind telling me what one you were using in the demo and what you like about it/ don't like?
The leather tape I just get off of Amazon! Here's the link to the 1/4" www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX8DDB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the tablet, It's the iPad Pro 12.9". I love it. I use it primarily for sketching and planning, plus a touch of note taking here or there. It's pretty big, but I need the extra space so my wrist isn't falling off the side.
I have a question about boxed corners. I always see zippered pouches/bags with boxes corners. But the bag tends to look triangular shaped when finished. Is there a way to keep the sides straight instead of flaring out? I hope you understand what I mean. Thanks!
Do you have any thoughts or designs on a folding or pleated bottom? I was sewing a lined grocery tote when I realized the exterior, vertical pocket for the phone was sewn almost an inch too low for a boxed French seam😂. I’m thinking and looking for some options... Thanks.
Oh, you mean sewing straight lines down and then just folding in the corners? You can totally do that! I mean, it might be a bit hard to sew them once the bag is "done" only because of how deep some of these totes can get, but it can be done. A lot of people will just hand sew the folded up corner, but then you have the extra fabric just flapping around at the bottom. That's ripe for picking up dirt and trash though.
@@fiercekittenz oh, wow! Thank you for the heads up on that option ‘ripe for picking up trash...’ I went ahead with the French seam and missed the pocket by that inch. The grocery bag looks cute and useful.
fiercekittenz: I have a question. How do I build a bottom boxed corner without it tapering in at the bottom. I need to have the width of the box the same from top to bottom. Thanks! TJB
You need to taper outward from the bottom right and left edges to the top right and left edges to make it look more straight after putting in the boxed corners. It should have a slight V-shape.
Can you please please give a lot more detail on the formula or the mathematics behind the Box bottom specifically how the Box bottom changes/affects the original height in width of the fabric.
I did some more research and found a good explanation for you at the Lazy Girl Designs blog on her website. Basically, you lose your desired depth in width and half your desired depth in height. W=bottom seam - depth. H= side seam - 1/2 of depth. You are taking the entire width off in one blow, whereas only 1/2 width on each side. Remember you are forming the bag bottom. So if flat is 19w x 16h Boxed is 15w x 14h x 4d (if using 4” for depth) :::: If you cut your squares out prior to boxing, cut them 1/2 desired finish. So if you want 4” in depth, cut out squares 2” If you don’t cut first, lay your ruler on corner @ 4” and sew seam
Very good question! Yes, you'll reduce your height by the amount of the box's size, so you'll want to account for that in the final pattern. This was one of my older videos. I've learned to cover more bases since. I should do a follow-up video to this one that explains it better.
I want to know is there a formula for the boxed corner that will make a perfectly square base? Ive seen heaps of boxed bags but can’t find one that describes how to get a perfectly square bottom - for toy bags etc I know I could sew a square into the bottom. But I don’t want to. Boxing the corners is so much easier. If only I could work out how to work out how to get a square base
Do you mean to make the entire body square versus just the bottom? To do that, whatever you cut away from the side to indent the square for the bottom seam, you'll want to add back to the top. So if the top of the square cut into the side is 2" then you'd want to add 2" to the topmost seam and draw a diagonal line from it to the outer corner of the square.
Ok so the 9t x 7w turns into cutting out pieces 10.5t x 8.5w because you're boxed corners are 2in finished? This is so helpful especially for pouches so you don't have those trapezoid shaped sides (super ugly IMO)
I notice when you do reverse stitching, most of the time you press the reverse lever while the needle is up. On my domestic machine, this causes issues because the shifting feed dogs move the fabric. So I've learned to bury my needle, press reverse, stitch, bury needle, let go of reverse. Might be different on a walking foot machine.
Oh yeah, on this industrial I don't have to do anything like that. My M7 (domestic) automates all of the needle work for me. I'm trying to do tutorials on both machines, because I worry that if I do too much on the industrial, it'll alienate people into thinking they HAVE to get one.
@@Sueblueify Which video specifically are you referencing? I want to know if I am making a tote and I want the final dimensions to be 15w x 16h x 4 deep, what size will I cut the front and back panel and how much would the height and width be decreased...what if I wanted the same size but with the box depth being 2 deep. I know there is a formula/math for this. I have searched RU-vid for a long time. There are many videos on how to create different types of boxed bottoms, but no explanations behind what happens mathematically or geometrically. Cutting out that box at the bottom changes the original dimensions. Hope this makes sense. I would be ever so grateful if anyone can help me to understand this.
@@Twistin3ouf, I'm not sure! The one I used in this video I just made on my own. You'd just need to take that piece, duplicate it, then put it bottom-to-bottom and tape it together then cut out one big piece.
@@Twistin3 I just made a little phone bag pattern that did not have a seam on the bottom. If your pattern is not like that, I would print the pattern piece twice, trim off the seam allowance, flip the second piece and tape it to the first. (Or with thin fabric you could cut on the fold.) Be sure to notch the midpoint well so you know where the bottom is. But I find it actually helps to have a seam on the bottom for lining up the seams and getting a good boxed corner, so next time I would make my pattern with the seam! And remember that if your fabric is directional, not using the seam means the direction is right on one side and wrong on the opposite side.
So I've seen this a few times in tutorials and I'm confused by it. Why do a half inch sa when you're just going to trim it down by a quarter inch? Why not just sew your sa a quarter inch to begin with? Not asking to be rude just srsly confused by it and cannot find the reasoning why.
No it's a GOOD question. So bags have a looot of layers at times and it can be fussy to try to line it all up, especially once you start using fleece or foam. The larger seam allowance is to give you that wiggle room so you don't have to worry about missing any of the layers with the construction stitch.
I watched someone do the same thing, but they simply sewed the corner on the inside of the bag at a bias leaving the corner projecting inward after the bag was turned right side out. Yeah, it's cheating, but faster.
Actually a super good question! Basically if you do a 1/4" you don't really have a lot of wiggle room when working with a lot of layers. You may not catch everything in the seam, so a lot of patterns have you do 1/2" and then trim it down. Gives you a lot of room to work with.