V10 swap? Nice. You got my interest! Please shoot your contact info to me at TheLeech405@gmail.com. I’d really like to talk about the project and see if I can help in any way.
im following along with all your videos, but i still cant quite get a handle on tuning in my f303 cam. if youre interested in helping me understand a few ways, please let me know! thank you so much for all the knowledge youve given us so far
@@weeman333briglio2 lol ball's man I'm trying to see if you're doing something similar to what I want to do I'll give you some info on it I'm sorry it's probably going to be a freaking novel I do apologize
@@weeman333briglio2 I have a 91 f and 50 to wheel drive 5.0 l well it has an issue to where it will fry the ECU ICA and rarely the coil I think I sort about that issue it was a short and harness but fingers crossed anyways they've put header pipes on it made it a true dual exhaust no crossover pipe it has the smog delete too this is before I got the vehicle I have some ECU's some A9Ls that I am trying to hook up to my truck too I want to convert it over to where it's in mustang brains set up but the body is f450 worked on cars all my life and I'm still learning some just got right here is like blowing your mind isn't even the right word so for him I'm very possibly going to put in the other O2 sensor then change the MAP sensor to a MAF sensor I need to ask him this about this speed density thing that something that your harness hooks to the rear end of your car if I'm not mistaken and then I will hope to God pick up a little bit of performance and a lot of fuel economy just wished I lived close enough to this butthole I mean that light-hearted it just thinks that he's always out there in Illinois and I'm all the way down here in Carolina sucks cuz I don't know if anybody around here that is really into doing mustangs and or conversions like my truck will be a convert anyway s you probably not even interested but I am interested in what you have going on because anything that I can learn gives me more experience and it may cross over to help me out a little more in the long run anyways thank you buddy later
There are tons of differences on the T4M0 overall, but when it comes to mass air tuning for fuel, that process will largely be the same regardless of ECU, so I'd imagine this video's theory should cross over fairly well for your application.
In your video "it's in the tune" I also have a 408W stroker like john burrows build. I have a lot of the same components like Ed Curtis FTI cam 42 lb injectors 92mm pro-M 90mm throttle body and custom intake going into the fender. I'm happy with the tune. Car runs great. Get good gas mileage imo. Only question I have is how do you tune the 1st shift surge on lunging out? When I release the clutch when in 1st gear and car creeps around 5mph the car lunges. I do have a TKO 600 instead of the T56. AFR 185 heads. On the Dyno car put 459 HP and 455 TQ to the rears. Tuned by Brian Turner out of Dyno tune motorsports in Columbus OH.
Since these strategies don’t directly let you make fuel or timing tuning decisions based on gear or mph, you have to simply consider what else is different about leaving off idle. The big difference is going to be that it’s the only time you’ll be at very low Rpms for a split second. Do a log driving it the way you’re describing the see what load and rpm you’re at where the jump occurs. Most likely you can smooth out the timing in that area. Look for big jumps in timing around there. You can likely pull a little timing, and it generally won’t change the remainder of the driving experience.
Just throwing out an opinion and it's probably going to sound very stupid but I'm gonna go ahead and say it lol. That sounds like something of my dreams damn it man I love Ford's these kind of places are the only places where I can go and geek out LOL can't afford all that but damn LOL that engine sounds bad..... Almost gave me hard on🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 LMAO I'm kidding I'm kidding but it does sound freaking awesome though as a bad sounding motor just hearing about all that stuff props to you man
I think you mentioned on one of your vids that drivers side bank always seems to read leaner. I noticed that on my car too. Just wondering why that’s he case.
That’s a good question. We’ve never tried to run any actual experiments in an attempt to prove why. If we were always only talking about a bone stock engine, I’d suspect the biggest contributing factors are differences in header primary exhaust tube bends/thickness/temperature, intake/exhaust flow on each cylinder, the design of the stock intake (not symmetrical left to right side), the flow of coolant through the engine, and the routing of the fuel lines/rails. But truth is, I’ve seen this over and over again on virtually every 5.0 I’ve touched... all kinds of combinations of heads, cam, intake, exhaust, fan, cooling systems, power adders, chassis... it’s just odd. But I dunno. We just do it that way. And honestly, on a healthy engine what’s the worst that could happen? You’re wrong, and the other side is actually leaner by 2-3% at wot? We tune pretty conservatively most of the time. So those kinds of differences aren’t likely to make or break the combo. But when you are pushing to the ragged edge that’s a different story. But those kinds of combos are the ones that start to benefit from faster computers, knock sensors, and closed loop WOT fueling.
Hello Matt!!! Awesome tutorial on tuning the foxbody!, I have been playing with this tuning thing for over 12 years on and off. After i ran into your channel on RU-vid I decided to start tuning all over again. Here is my setup, 306, NOVI 2000, ~12lbs boost, 8"asp crank pulley, Quarter Horse, svt Y303 heads, kb pistons, Anderson ford B21cam, trick flow intake,1.7 roller rockers, 60lb inj, sct ba2800, long tubes, x pipe, 70mm tb, CF clutch 355 gears, mm control arms, cold air fw intake A9L. I have gone through your setup videos and have the car running better than my previous tune but my setup has always had a rich tune at about 15%. If I remove 15% off the MAF curve the KAMRF are almost dialed in. So do I mess with the injector low slope to compensate for the lower idle richness are or do I just adjust the MAF and trim 15% off the curve? I have to test my WOT AFR to check the percentage out at the top end of the curve with my innovative wideband O2, but first I have to replace my Quarter Horse as it started to lose it's tune after I shut the car off, it's an early one and I have replaced the battery and resistor as Moates suggested in their TSB but is is still pooched. Once I get the new QH I'll continue to tune. Here is my ride: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MscZ5JZPNc0.html
Perfect. I would recommend running the data straight off of ford’s calibration sheet for LU60 injectors for high slope, low slope, breakpoint, and offsets. Take all of the stock cranking pulsewidth numbers and multiply them by 0.43. Then leave the injector data alone and do the rest of the fuel correction in the maf curve. I trust that injector data and have used it countless times. That maf will likely need some tweaking though. Rev analyzer has data for the ba2600 and the ba3000. I just average those out and use that for the ba2800 mass air data as a starting point.
Man, I am struggling. Datalog says the car is going into Closed loop, but the KAMRFs are not changing from 1 so I have no data to tune my idle fuel with. Made sure car is up to temp. Factory A9L calibration, with very few changes. Basically raised the idle by following your other video and changed the injector data because I have frpp 30lb injectors. Haven't touched any of the adaptive learning stuff and have cleared KAMRFs multiple times hoping to see a change. Any ideas? It has longtubes, maybe something I'm missing with related to that? HEGOs are switching
Any time the factory O2 sensors are in place and the engine has a cam with moderate overlap, I prefer to leave the car in closed loop and let the sensors go to work. Then make adjustments based on averages of those readings.
@@LeechMotorsports Thanks. Your "factory "O2" comment makes sense and lines up with some of my initial thoughts. I seemed to be having better results in closed loop. In all the reading I have done, no one really ever explained which is most prefered and why.
With regards to eec analyzer and maf curve, if I have a wideband and it’s being logged, can I set the whole curve based on CL and wideband being checked?
Before I comment, I’ll assume that you’re working with an eec-iv, since that’s what my current videos are focused on. If that’s not the case let me know. You can tune exclusively based on your wideband if you’d like, but the car won’t be operating in closed loop. You would be forcing open loop in the tune, driving and logging, then loading the log into eec analyzer. On the MAF tab, make sure that you have wideband and open loop selected at the bottom before you ask it to recalculate. I personally prefer to leave the stock o2 sensors in place in addition to the wideband(s). The stock o2 sensors are very good for dialing in idle and normal driving conditions in closed loop. Then I use the wideband for the heavy throttle tuning.
Gotcha. Yeah, so that’s still eec-iv. So the comment I made above definitely applies to your situation. Shoot me a note at TheLeech405@gmail.com with all the details of your combo and your contact info and I can happily put together a base tune for you today and work with you through tune revisions as you get data logs.
On a foxbody mustang, the speedometer in the dash does not use the vehicle speed sensor. It is purely cable driven and requires the correct speedo gear to be installed. From a data log perspective, you can correct it, since the logs are based on the vehicle speed sensor.
@@LeechMotorsports Ok i should have been more specific, I am wanting to know if you can correct it on a 1995 mustang. I am pretty sure it uses the VSS and no cable. Also how familiar are you with the T4M0 computers in this car?
Did you make sure to load your current MAF data into the left hand panel, select closed or open loop at the bottom, and select fuel trims or wideband, then click calculate? If so a pop-up window should have appeared asking if you wanted it to make decisions based on your commanded AFRs in the log or at a static 14.64. If you never saw that window, it may have popped open behind eec analyzer. Also, did you go to the first table of eec analyzer and open your log prior to going to the MAF tab?
@@LeechMotorsports I went in to eec analyzer and hit the data log tab went down to the open tab. open it up and selected my data log. which it poped up and showed me everything. then i went to the maf tab and pasted my current maf curve in just like in the video. and i selected the cl button and the fuel trims both button. but when i hit the calculate button nothing happens. is there maybe something i may need to set up somewhere els?
Kevin Hamer no that all sounds right to me. Shoot me an email at TheLeech405@gmail.com with your contact info and we can do a web session this evening to troubleshoot. Also if you could send me your current tune file and log, I can try it from my computer to see if it works on my side.
@@LeechMotorsports Hi, Ken here. I have the same problem not getting the calculate button to work. I also notice that the slide switch to find a time location is also grayed out. I followed your video and believe I did it right but nothing happens. Any updates on this concern? Thanks.....Ken.
A suggestion, you should stay away from using short term trims in your calculations, use only long term. short term is driven by the ecm for Catalytic reasons, and will always be rich-lean, its by design. you should accumulate long term data, and if you wish apply it to your xfer
