Molines and plowing are beer and dear. I learned with a 1949 U and a John Deere 3-14 rope trip when I was about 12 yrs. old. I still have the tractor. Thanks for the memories.
We had a JD an international and minneapolis plows. Liked the minnrapolis trip hitch fastened to the tractor drawbar. Plow only had a big ring the trip grabbed on to. Wòrked very good as we had several rocks was backing up and rehooking a lot.
Nice to see a.properly adjusted plow working so many just have the deeper the better attitude and the ground looks like shit they dont rollover cleanly th e colter should cut clean and the share should roll it over not bulldoze thru the soil
I have a IH 540 plow. Put new shares and shins on it. The shares tip curves down and extends out past the edge of the shin. landsides are worn. Question is, Do I weld on to them to get them to the edge of the shin? Or inline with the bottom tip of the new share? Right now the landside is 1/2- 3/4 inch in from the edge of the shin.
Good question. I'm guessing you have Super Chief bottoms on your 540 and I can see why you are wondering: vertically the landside lines up with the shin more than the share. I'll bet the big bolt that holds the frog to the beam does not go through the landside, the landside is simply clearanced for the bolt head. So, I would suggest you weld on to the landsides to repair the worn portion and then install washers behind the landside to space the landside out to where it's needed to make the plow pull straight. I'll bet it ends up somewhere between the share and the landside, horizontally.
I don't have first-hand experience with them, but I think they have potential to help cover heavy LOOSE residue like corn stalks. But, I would imagine they would do enough ripping though that they would do a poor job in sod. I've heard complaints about them that they can add side draft to the plow and that their mounting arrangement can break easier depending on the design.
Well, if your hitch is set right and your shares are sharp the plow should suck down to the tail wheel (or the landside heel alone if you don't have a tail wheel). The tail wheel (or the landside) actually sets the orientation of the plow frame (you can roll the plow forward or back based on that adjustment). So, you could roll the plow forward to increase suck or you could roll it back so the moldboard tails push the furrow slice over further or pack it better. Once happy with the tail wheel adjustment, lower the landside heel so that it just kisses the furrow bottom. You want it down to support the plow in the horizontal direction but you don't want to unnecessarily wear the bottom because the tail wheel should be doing most of that work.
1. Don't fight worn out skimmer/jointer blades. They won't do a good job and they'll plug with residue. Find good ones or rebuild using a new one as a pattern. 2. I measure 4.5 inches from the point of the jointer down to the share. So, when plowing at 6 inches deep, the point of the jointer is working 2 inches deep. 3. The portion of the furrow slice that the jointer is slicing off contributes to furrow conformation, so jointing/skimming only as much as necessary is ideal. Also, running the jointer too deep just wrecks the furrow slice and can throw too much dirt in the furrow bottom in the wrong place which can prevent the furrow slice from turning properly. 4. As mentioned in the video, having the front and back coulters, and therefore the jointers, set exactly the same is important: depth, forward/back, side to side, shanks straight up and down, jointer blades oriented the same. 5. Other thoughts: I have made extensions to the jointer blade when plowing clover or grass to help rip the jointer slice away. Some brands of jointers do a nicer job than others. Covering wires really affect the flow of soil from the jointer slice so only use covering wires when absolutely needed in tall stalks. If you are competing with fancy equipment, positioning the jointer blade front to back and its overall orientation will affect where the jointer slice lands which is important when plowing grass. 6. Coulter blades must be sharp to use jointers/skimmers!!!
@@everythingmoldboardplows thanks for the help! Hoping to get some practice in very soon with the match plow I’ve put together over the winter. My skimmers have a lot of adjustment. They’re on a Kverneland hydrein frame, they got adjustment in nearly every direction including a pitch/angle adjustment. In plowing matches here we generally plow grassland, but occasionally try and have a patch of grain stubble for a class
Can anyone tell me what a "deep bearing" plow is? Is it different than a normal plow? The plow I'm looking at looks the same as others but they call it a deep bearing plow🤔
I’ve seen “deep tillage” plows and plow bottoms in literature. “Deep bearing” sounds like a regional term for that. If it is legitimately deep tillage the plow bottoms will be unique: usually taller to plow greater than 10” deep.
Boy I've tried everything except for the land sides and I can't get the dirt to move up hill enough. I should say I have a three point hitch three bottom John Deere
Two things come to mind: if the landsides are wore the plow will pull to the left. When it is pulling to the left, the plow bottom is rotated clockwise (looking from above) which is not going to roll the soil over the same as if the plow was pulling straight. Second, 90% of mounted plows I see run "nose down" in a misguided attempt to get the plow in the ground because of worn shares. Running with the nose down lifts the tails of the moldboards up, also not rolling the ground over as well as when the plow is oriented correctly.
@@everythingmoldboardplows from further looking at the plow I can see the landsides are worn. Would you suggest that I should repair all three and make the last one longer?
