This video is incredible- I’ve been doing research as I’ve been having a terrible time with idle surging. Replacing this thing is an unnecessary expense. Thank you your taking the time to make this fantastic demonstration. Will be tackling this over the weekend 🙌
Just a quick update: I've since adjusted my IAC valve to exactly 4 full turns out from all the way in; that seems to be working pretty well and slightly better than the previous 2.75 turns. Also see the other video linked in the description for further information and also a more detailed look at the adjustment tool used. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CE5RLrnEk6M.html
Thank you for this video! What you describe at the 6 minute mark exactly describes what my truck does. I have not yet readjusted mine, so I appreciate you following up on this 👍
Wow, very thorough. Can't get that collar unscrewed to save my life. Ordered some Kroil penetrant as PB blaster didn't do it. Will make your special tool also and see how that works.
Getting it free the first time is a straight up nightmare. Try putting some heat on it.. I wonder if maybe Toyota used some sort of locking compound or something. I can't remember exactly how I did mine, but I think I might have used a punch to drive it backwards or maybe I used that socket I made with a mild impact gun... but yeah, it's not easy. Make sure to accurately mark the factory location.
Ok, I'll admit, Im not a trained or even very experienced mechanic .. to me, this is next level, you are a legend .. thank you so much for sharing all these 22RE vids .. fyi, if I got all of them, I think you are currently at 99 published videos just on the 22RE :) so on the next one as of time of this comment, maybe some sort of celebration is in order? Achem, there was some very beautiful dancer hanging around you at one point 😁
Thanks man.. glad you are enjoying the videos. I have a fun time making them and answering comments. Yes, the girl who used to hand from my roof was my former girlfriend, Abi. We are no longer together. She can still be found on Instagram @Abilola90
I was just messing with mine 3 hours ago and went with roughly 2.5 turns out and received a positive result with a cold idle of 1100 RPM. Was having it idle at 2200 before at cold so it was definitely the culprit. Now with it being at operation temperature, it idles around 900 but I'm happy with that. My only issue is when I come back from a ride and try to start it after I shut my truck off it'll die sometimes in first gear. I Will mess with the AFM tomorrow as that is the only thing I haven't touched.
the IAC valve shuts and stays totally off once coolant temps reach around 130-140 degrees F - under normal operating temps of the 22RE (around 180F) the IAC should be totally off post warm up cycle.
Thanks! That's a little tool I made here in the garage. I have some more information on it in this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CE5RLrnEk6M.htmlsi=BhoJleLP4u0mtCXs
I am having a problem turning the IAC valve slot (adjusting ring) in and out with my flat head screw driver. I even use a hammer to try to turn the IAC slotted head (adjusting ring) and it would not move. I also used lubricating fluid but no success. How did you manage to loosen and turn the slot IAC head that easily in the video? There must be a special tool for this? Thanks
Dude.. the first time is a straight nightmare. As I remember, I had to put the IAC assembly in a soft jaw vice and use a torch to heat up the nut a bit and sprayed WD40 on it, etc. Even then, I ended up having to use a pair of pliers and a wrench on the pliers to twist the hell out of things - when it finally popped and let go, it damn near took my arm off. The only reason it's easy to adjust now is because of breaking it free the first time like that and other people have reported the same struggles getting that nut to move the 1st time out. Make darn sure you mark it or measure it.. I still don't know for sure how many turns the factory setting is. I've thought about buying a stock one just to measure the depth from the top or something and/or carefully counting the rotations. Anyway, let me know if you have any success over there. This video shows the tool I ultimately made for that nut, but I'm not totally sure it would have helped to free it initially or not (but once it's free, then it's easy to adjust). I don't know what Toyota locks it with from the factory, but yeah it's on there tight as can be. Here's that video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CE5RLrnEk6M.htmlsi=ePHhi1wJcK-2SpFw
Thanks! I don't have any specific to the TPS but there are some good ones out there. You definitely want to get that adjustment correct using a digital volt meter. I would refer to the factory service manual pages for that, since it's a fairly process to adjust it correctly.
amigo necesito ayuda con respecto a esa misma iac en mi caso estire el resorte pensando que iba a cerrar de mejor forma y resulta que ahora no cierra por completo me imagino dañe el resorte el que va suelto que me recomiendas
So one quick question. Turning it all the way clockwise will shut it down at a lower temperature, and turning counterclockwise will shut it down at a higher temp. Is that right or do I have it backwards?
I think I adjusted it incorrectly previously. I had it set more like 3.5 turns out, which I think was resulting in it closing far too late. I'm going to try the 2.75 turns and see if it will fully close and stay closed at 100 degrees - which the motor should have less trouble staying above. How's your build going?
@@ray5961 The relay came it and worked like a charm. On a hold until I get more fund. Just thinking how far do I want to go. Thinking of future paint color also, thinking of painting it Toyota Cement Gray (1H5). On a stand still for rn.
I made it from a spare 9/16th socket w/ 3/8 drive. I filed it down on the top in order to create the two areas that fit into the adjustment nut slots on the IAC. If you have a spare socket and a large metal file, it's actually not too hard to make. I think it took me maybe 20-30 minutes of filing and checking to get it to work. It's really handy to have, especially if you have never adjusted that nut before, because it tends to be hard to move the first time.
@@xyzabc9332 I soaked mine in WD40 over night the first time I broke it loose. Before I made that little socket tool, I used some C-clip pliers and just stuck the pin part of the pliers into the slot and then used a wrench or something on the pliers to twist. Luckily I didn't damage anything doing that method. But yeah, the custom made tool from the 9/16th socket works much better and also allows to easier fine tuning adjustments down the road. Frankly, just blocking off the IAC valve works best, unless you are in a super cold climate. I have mine blocked off with some tape (to block the hole inside the throttle body, as shown in my other videos). Once the truck oil temp gets up to about 100-120 degrees, the truck idles fine after that.
@@coop_69 I hear ya man. Mine is stuck so bad I thought it would never break loose. I might have used some heat on the aluminum housing to help free things up, but I can't remember for sure. Also, make sure to use some WD40 on the threads over night. Also, the socket is for making adjustments. I didn't use that socket to break mine loose; I made the socket after it was already turning. Sorry maybe I should have made that clear. As I remember, I used some needle nose pliers, where I ground off the ends to make tips that go into the slots, then I used an adjustable wrench across the pliers to turn them. So with one hand I was holding the tips of the pliers down into the groves of the adjusting nut and with the large wrench, I was exerting a turning force on the jaws of the needle nose pliers. It finally let go like that with a big *crack* and even then, turning it was a bitch. There's no easy solution.. you just need brute force basically.
Si, me gustaría saber eso también. No marqué el mío cuando comencé a ajustar. Alrededor de 4 vueltas es donde lo tengo ahora, pero creo que 4,5 quizás sea mejor. Tengo más pruebas que hacer en el futuro.
@@PedroItzep-ed5ybDe nada. ¡Guatemala! Mi ex novia era mitad guatemalteca jaja :-) Creo que en la válvula IAC, tal vez intente con 4,5 turnos. Déjame saber si te parece bien. Estoy usando 4 turnos aquí, pero creo que necesito un poco más porque el camión tiene un punto durante el calentamiento con el que tiene problemas (el ralentí baja durante unos minutos en las paradas).
yeah 2 full turns, then 3/4 of a turn, However, I think it might actually need more than that now that I have tested it. Maybe 3 to 3.25 would be better. I'll probably leave it at 2.75 turns, even though idle is down around 600 RPM's for the first few minutes. Never a dull moment adjusting the ol' IAC valve. :-)
Hey, nice video, thank you. So once tightened down, then backed off 2.75 turns will the coolant be able to flow as freely as when set to factory setting? I imagine that all coolant doesn’t have to pass through the IACV, just a portion?
Thanks! The adjusting ring actually is controlling air flow into the motor; it doesn't have anything to do with the coolant flow. The coolant flows through the IAC all the time (just like you see with those hoses I have setup on the sink). What you are adjusting with the IAC valve is at what coolant temp the IAC stops allowing extra into the motor. The IAC valve' s job is to allow more air into the motor so when your vehicle is cold, it can run for a bit at a slightly higher RPM. 2.75 turns counter clockwise from all the way in will shut the air flow off at coolant temp of around 100 degrees F - I haven't tested my setup yet to know if that's a good setting or not, but i think it should be about right based on how long it takes my truck to reach about 100 degrees on the engine oil.
@@ray5961 Thanks again for the video & happy to hear that the coolant flow isn’t obstructed in the adjusting of this valve to reduce auxiliary air flow at a lower coolant temp:)
