Thank you kind sir, I been watching videos left right and center and this is the first that actually gives a definition of which way to go for more or less clutch travel, with that style adjustment. Great video, I'm glad it was here!
Thank you so much Gordon! This is like the Holy Grail. I have asked so many mechanics about this and they just refused to say. Marking the crank? Genius!!! Thanks again!
thanks again Gordon. It's really convenient to watch these videos even if youv'e seen them before just to get focused if you haven't done it for awhile. Ditto for brakes, seals, etc. Thanks every time!
All these "tech" videos could take a tip or three from you. Must've watched a half dozen others that never mentioned having to push in on that bolt. Anyway, your two clutch video earned you a sub.
Dude marking the Crankshaft is BOTH Genius and Obvious. Every owner operator should does this. I prefer to use a Double Ended Swivel Head spanner so I can force the socket head on the adjusting bolt by levering off the window. Also I used a 3/8 extension round section to measure the 1/2 gap.
Have a question so I did exactly what you did but my push in bolt didn’t come out again is that normal or do I have to take it out again with like a flat head screwdriver?
Have you ever had trouble with the adjuster not wanting to turn left... having that issue now it has broken 2 teeth off that big ring gear any help is appreciated
7/16 to 1/2 inch clearance on clutch brake first. May have to adjust linkage for free travel on pedal. I always go about 3 inches free travel at pedal. O/O spec. In 1 million miles 5 adjustments. 😮
You should have two inch pedal's free play, and one inch distance to the floor. You did not check your release bearing's and clutch brake gap. Should be 1/2 of inch. If not, you should adjust it externally.
Pushing down to floor applies clutch brake to stop gears in trans so it does not grind when going from neutral into gear. Many new guys unaware of this who drive smaller Penske box trucks with synchro trans.
Wow! Guys please be advised, if ur going to do this yourself. Watch an actual certified Diesel Tech show you. Or take it to a shop. This guy failed to mention so many things. U can measure the distance of the throw out bearing down below. Usually if it's a 1/2 it'll give you perfect free play in the pedal! While you are down there u should check the clearance between your throw out bearing and clutch brake. Which should be 10 thou if I remember correctly. Also while ur right there grease your throw out bearing. There's another way of measuring it down below too, it's between ur throwout bearing ears on the left side which should be 1/8 of an in. That's just as affective as the 1/2 measuring. It's hard to explain step by step. Watch a few videos on this. U'll see what I mean.
Yep, pretty much. Paperwork that comes with many clutches tell you, depending on manufacturer, 1/2" - 9/16" or 13mm - 14mm between clutch brake and throwout bearing and about 1/8" between release forks and throwout bearing.....what you end up with at the pedal is what it is.....usually 2 - 2 1/2" of pedal freeplay
@@leorguevara3622 oh ok.. thanks for the info. I been watching all these videos but wasn't sure because most say about the 1/8 in the 1/2 in then the 1 1/2 to 2 in pedal... but they never tell you that if you set 1 they shoukd all be set. Here I was thinking they all 3 were adjusted differently..lol
You didn't tell people in the video that they need to make sure the bolt comes back out. Sometimes that bolt sticks in and the spring doesn't push it back out like it's supposed to be. I have that happen a lot to me when adjusting clutches on fleet trucks at work.
