Thanks a lot. Local shop was going to charge me $300 to find my LGT2654 with the same issue. I had 2 pushrods that were bent and cost me $14 to replace them and with the help of your video, I was able to reset my valves. You save me $300 so thank you !!
My name is Johnny Roberts and I'm from Hockley, Texas and I just wanted to say. I had the same problem with my lawn mower And your video. It was very helpful.😂
thank you for this... regarding the several comments about breaking off the pencil in the cylinder head. it became obvious to me while using a dowel that the spark plug hole is not directly above the piston travel. it is offset. and when the piston is coming up, it will bind the pencil/dowel. so, be gentle... always keep the pencil floating, as it will bind, and it will break.
Thank you for the video, I now have a better understanding on how to adjust the valves, I have almost no money to take it to a mechanic, they cost to much lol just kidding, so thank you and have a grate day. Verne Johnson 😊
Um, I believe the intake valve is on the bottom, exhaust on top, not the other way around. At least that's true on my Briggs 24hp. You can tell because the intake will have the aluminum lifter, the exhaust will have the steel lifter.
The best explained video on this I've seen. Could the valve cover gasket be my problem ? My Husqvarna lgt2554 was running great, I was cutting grass yesterday and oil immediately went everywhere, including my leg and shoe. I shut it off immediately. I'm going to look at it today, hopefully, it's just the valve cover gasket. The mower was running great, good power. I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, John
Excellent video, thanks for the insights.... my Husqvarna YTH22V46 has lots of sputtering on one side. It has over 1,000 hours on it and the valves have never been adjusted, so I will put your video to good use and do the adjustments. One question, can I use a properly fitted gasket instead of the silicone for the cover, so I don't have to scrape all that gunk off every time I open the cover ?
Model 400000, 440000, 490000 are all the same valve clearances as per factory specs. Which is .004" to .006" tolerance for both the intake and exhaust valves. Thanks for watching and commenting.
CYCLE FAB : PLEASE PIN THIS TO THE TOP OF THE COMMENTS... Do NOT use a PENCIL as an AID in determining TDC. While moving the cylinders with the TOP NUT...the PENCIL became wedged and BROKE OFF within the cylinder. OMG...did I have to take off the cylinder head to retrieve? Thank my lucky stars. Fire up the LEFT side (non-damaged side) while allowing the RIGHT cylinder to simply rotate without the SPARK PLUG. While doing the above step...I had a vacuum hose over the spark plug outlet...and voila...it SUCKED the small pieces of the pencil into the hose. (Confirmed with just cleaned tub for wall mounted vacuum). ONLY USE something like a steel rod that won't break off. Oh...valve adjustment went just fine. I am one lucky pup.
I feel for you...really. So sorry you had such an ordeal. I had never considered the possibility that that could actually happen. Happy that everything turned out for the best. BTW, this is the most enlighting comment that I had ever gotten...and funny too.
Honestly, I do not know. But if you have never had the valves adjusted and you have many, many hours on your tractor then more than likely they are out of adjustment and could help solve your problem.
@@CycleFab "POP" I love the term "Just pop" but, I got the pencil stub out now as soon as the new head gasket gets here Oct4) I can pop that thing back on. Poppin right along.
Would it be acceptable to adjust one valve's lash when the other valve is open and then just reverse that for the other? There's no reason both valves would be open at the same time, right?
No. For some designs, and how the valves are set, there can be a slight over lap where both valves are open, this helps with exhausting all burned gasses. And, I did not take any critisism at all. I appreciate you taking the time to ask me any questions.
That's what I use to make the product I invented for the Harbor Freight and Eastwood powder coat systems. Check it out....ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N3InoaNakYM.html
Can you help me with an unrelated issue? It seems I have sticking valves on my husqvarna yth24v48. It runs fine then it goes into a low power flutter sound where it sounds like only one cylinder is working and then if I keep running it will eventually go back to full power sounding normal. I circulated STA-BIL in the gas before winter and ran the motor a few times during the winter. So I don't know if I have varnish on the valves making one stick or bent rods causing this.
That is something for a GOOD small engine repair shop in your area to diagnose. If it were me, working on my own tractor, and I thought it were the push rods or valves sticking because they were bent. I would take them out and check them for straightness. Make sure you are using new spark plugs first before you dive into pulling the heads off. I've had that happen to me before and new sparkplugs fixed the issue. Let me know how it goes.
@@CycleFab Thanks . I went ahead and shotgunned it. I replaced the eco spark plugs with champions, sharpened blades, put grease in the blade spindles, new gas, new oil (the right amount this time), and ran Sea Foam down the carborator. Tonight it ran well for 1hr 15 minutes. I think it is ok now , I just need to make sure everything is maintained. I notice a difference on warm starts, I don't even need to choke it now.
@@alan93 Good to hear! I swear by a good fuel treatment, I use it 100% of the time, not just when I store it (Lucas Fuel Injection Cleaner) and I've had zero problems with gas residue. Also, run only high octane pump gas, the higher the better.
@@CycleFab Update: It would still go into cripple mode after about 25-30 minutes of running (when it got hot?) where it was low power and sounded like it was only running on one cylinder. I pulled the valve covers off and checked the valves and the rods. I noticed the valve things on one side was more that .0006 and so I tightened it. Today cutting grass I made it through the 1 hour 15 minutes with full power! I don't know if those being loose would cause that but it worked good today.
Shouldn't the EXHAUST VALVES be set on the high side instead of the way you suggest? After working on high performance car engines with "solids", the usual practice was to set the exhaust to the highest permissible clearance to have the exhaust valve stay on the seat longer to prevent burnt valves. I realize that setting clearances tighter will give higher lift for more power, but at the expense of shorter valve life.
@@CycleFab I've had a few of those twin v's and when they start to turn a little hard when your starting I know it's time to check the valve clearances, especially the exhaust. I seem to remember there being some kind of decompression design built into the camshaft at starting rpms that stops working if the exhausts get too loose.I set mine at 4 +6 thousadths just like you suggested. I had a big snowblower once that would kickback hard enough to dislocate your shoulder and tightening up the exhausts is what finally fixed it. Any way, I had to watch your video to refresh my memory on the TDC procedure so thanks!
