Almost everyone of these videos on RU-vid get the exhaust and intake valves backwards. Briggs uses aluminum push rod for intake and steel for exhaust. Very easy to see the color variation in the video. Also just remove intake or exhaust manifold and look to confirm. Both intake and exhaust ports are near topside of head. The intake passage goes down at an angle to bottom valve.
man i used to build car engines, went to school for it. so used to hydraulic lifters i didnt realize this. had a husqvarna mower for years with a 15hp kholer engine, and it had started to get a little finicky to start but ran great. well my blade clutch locked up so i bought another mower today for $125. i planned to use it and some parts off mine. well we got it home and i couldnt start it, same issue. this motor was briggs and neglected. real dirty. well you just saved me a lot of trouble man
I have been working on small engines for 40 years and the way to set the valves and it has never failed me, is if one valve is open all the way, then set the other valve, then rotate the engine to open the valve you just set until it is fully open and set the other valve clearance. Try it one time and you will do them all like this, It save a lot of time and guess work.
You are correct. It’s amazing how many techs still take the time to find TDC when they could just do it like you describe and be done. Lol. I’ve been twisting wrenches for 40 years. Adjust every valve that way. Lol
@@wcjcnc why listen to engineers and specifications when you can just do gess work for a couple minutes less 😂... i swear old mechanics are the worst.
@@lexus9337 When it’s done the valves are adjusted to spec and the machine runs perfectly. But you keep thinking you’re smarter than everybody else. I swear young mechanics are the worst. Noobs can’t tie their fucking shoes without a manual. Lol
@@lexus9337Just so you know, I tried this method (on the correct valves) and turned the motor over a couple of times and then did the .25 turn past TDC, measured the valves and they were spot on. Chalking one up for the old guys here. I play with alcohol engines so I like to be exact. This worked just fine. This is also not s 10k rpm engine do you can relax just a bit.
The intake valve is on the bottom, exhaust valve is on the top.. Aside from looking at the manifolds, Another quick way to tell on these engines is the intake pushrod is aluminum, and the exhaust valve is steel.
Great video. Tomorrow I am replacing push rods on a briggs and wanted to double check procedure for adjusting valves. Valve lash moved and threw the rod and bent the crap out of it.
TY, i was completely lost and thru trial and error and some google'n.......i needed to try and learn how to adjust my valves on a Briggs and Strat 21hp zero turn. My mower was doing EXACTLY what u said and not turning over but it was working with the plug out. Great video and TY for saving me money! My Intake was 3-5 and out was 5-7....adjusted and BOOM fired off and ran on the first crank!!!!!!
thanks for the video man it runs fantastic now even with a brand new battery would barely moves open up the cover and the valve is loose as hell did my adjust and bam fired right up
Hey man...nice work. Your video is great! You explain things things very well. I had no idea how to do this. Now thanx to you i believe i can handle it. Thnx again.
Took me 20 minutes thank you!!! (Didnt use feeler gauge tho, just winged that shit...put her TDC and just snuggled them both up, took about 3 tries...now she fires right up thank youl
Thanks, it was the coil. I'm still starting with the solenois. I tested the ignition key switch and thats ok so it has to be the brake safety switch...I think
i believe i have oil seeping from my rocker cover gasket. i`m going to change it myself, first time doing this. can i change the gasket and not have to worry about the vales. makes me nervous because i`ve never adjusted valves and really just want to change that gasket and go
Great video and thanks. I have a Briggs and stratt 19.5 intek. Starts fine on initial contact but after motor warms up I don't have the option of shutting her off because she won't refire until completely cooled down. Any advise?
ive found that some times the extra bump on the cam for the compression release gets wore down from use if you adjust the valves correctally and turn over the motor slowly you should be able to see the valve move slightly out then in just before it opens all the way if it dos not its probbaly the cam that needs replaced
i havent dug to far into the internals on any motor but i would pull the head on that side and check dose it run and have spark on that side could be a stuck valve or if its a ohv a bent pushrod
thank you for this video. It is a great help. I'm hoping you can help some more. I have readjusted my valves on a 16.5 B&S, twice now, a few days apart. On both occasions I seem to get it to work fine but then after starting the engine a few times it seems to slip out of adjustment. I just readjusted per your advice and tested it with the plug in but wire off and still with the valve cover off. It spun like a top. I was so happy. After I put it all back together I hit starter and it fired. Excited I shut it down and then tried it again. This time it stumbled on the compression, but then kicked over and fired up. great. worried about the stumble I tried it again. NO GO. it stuck just like before adjustment. Any ideas?
I have a honda gx240 8hp with OHV. Its an older pressure washer from 1989. I looked up the specs and intake=.15mm and exhaust=.2mm. The intake valve was already to spec. The exhaust valve tappet was way in, it has no play, no gap or anything. The motor was at TDC. When i put the exhaust tappet at .2mm clearance the engine became difficult to turn over, almost impossible. When i put the exhaust valve back in to where it was it works ok, but is hard to start and runs a little rough. Why is the exhaust valve tappet needing to be pushed way in at TDC?
I had a mower guy bust my chops for not setting the valves in my mower, its seven years old. I explained to him that running premium synthetic oil controls the heat and wear more effectively, there is no issues with compression loss. I used to do a lot of L-Head valves that were tight, I would add .001 to the intake and .002 to the exhaust and never touch them again. This setting would boost cylinder pressure and allow for wear.
First off awesome video, secondly i just did this and my bottom valve was too tight i adjusted to specs for my mower and still the same results. It will start i manually spin flywheel with my hands. Any suggestions
Fellow youtubes the intake on most these single cylinder intec engines 28 or 31 cubic inch are typic 3 thousand to 5 thousands of a inch for intake and 5 thousand to 7 thousands on exaust there is a special val lash for some 31 cubic inch engines with a Q in there model number [reamber the alum push rod is used on the intake and metal for exaust ] also check your rocker arm studs they can loosen over time causing the valves to go out of adjustment more frequently . Briggs recommends you set your valves every season but this is rarely done in pro shops[rocker arm studs tork at 100 inch pounds and valve covers as well as rocker arm jam nuts tork at 65 inch pounds] if your rocker arm studs are loose use 242 Loctite and apply to the treads that are on the stud to head surface .
TheWolverine0657 should watch Tarly fixes all videos on how to adjust valves and his tips. He’s helped me out a lot in understanding small engine repair videos. Those tips help to know from someone who has been doing repairs for 40 plus years. Take it from an aircraft mechanic who doesn’t know a lot about small engines. Good luck.
hey thanks kevin the technical info. i've been working on small engines mainly 2 smokes for about 25 years and found that just open and adjust does not work and that each engine model is different in most cases briggs having thousands of models makes each more technical. first comment =best best explanation -_-
have a 140cc b&s push mower drained fuel and replaced replaced and properly gapped plug to .30". adjusted coil gap to .010". found valves very loose inspected push rods reinstalled rockers and adjusted to .005" don't know if specks are correct or not any help would be appreciated thanks.
Thanks for that great job,i have a honda generator model EU3000is,she have that problem, I will try to do it according with instructions of your video, hopefully be great, just want to know about the valve gap clearan the exhaust valve 00 ? And gap clearance the intake 00? I need your instructions for that, Thanks
I had this same problem last year. 17.5hp. I did what you did in the video and it worked. No problems all winter snow plowing and cut my lawn about five times this year. Now this year same problem. I adjusted the valves the same way. Still barely turns over. Batt. is fine, valves adjusted to .003, have spark, gas, etc. :-(
Sounds like you needs a cam shaft, the compression breaker is probably broken. Its a little clip thing on the cam shaft next to the cam gear on the inside.
the lower valve is the intake with aluminum push rod. my 15.5 hp has the intake on the bottom and the exhaust on top. please check this and let me know. Thanks Ben
Half of youtube instruction videos get that part wrong. It got me confused at first, when my aluminium push rod broke and I was looking on how to fix it. Do your homework before posting videos!!
Thanks for the immediate response. I did what you recommended and the rod is straight and no other visible signs of wear. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
remember because when the engine is not running the compression release valve is in the open position, you will have to drop the pistion 1/4" past top dead center or adjusting the intake will be off as much as 0.005 thousands off from where they need to be.
Thanks man..... best instructional video on Briggs & Stratton valves.... the push rods came out before I started watching your video.... great what you did. Great instructions... question from a fan.. Which push rod is on the top (intake) the steel or the (maybe aluminum) light one? Also mention that you adjust or check clearance on both intake and exhaust. But really great vidieo... watched it twice and will check out your other videos.
Hay folks ive got a briggs and straton m#31R77 and im trying to find out the size of the motor and the valve adjustment specs...any help will be appreciated in advance.
yes when you adjust them correct with the plug out by hand turn over the engine and look at the exhaust valve it should move out slightly like 1-2 mm and back in then out to fully open the valve the lobe can wear down and not open fully causing it to not allow it to crank fast enough or not at all causing the no start or hard start
I had what was a compression problem with similar issue as you showed in your video. I adjusted the valves and it started fine and I ran it in the garge for a few minutes. The next day I had the same stuborn problem. I opened it up and tried it again but now the lower rocker arm is not moving as I rotate the flywheel. I cranked It for a few seconds ant upper valve was fine, but the lower arm did not move. Any advise? Please help . Thank you.
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
I was adjusting my valves and one of the plastic piece broke and I looked in my parts manual and I know its a part number is 1034 and I can't find that part, I was wanting to know if it's ok to run my mower without that plastic piece?
Hi dear thanks for this video! Just l would like to know about the generator eu 3000is, how much is the clearance set of exhaust valve NO :00 ? And also the clearance set intake NO:00 ? If you send me a video or an instruction I will be very happy for that, thanks
I have a 16hp twin2 briggs and stratton. the starter is good. the motor spins well. It sounds like the end when at first yours didn't start. You gave it gas it look like but It turns over smooth but not catching. The carb is rebuilt new solenoid. can there be any other electrical problems or if it turns and not catching is it most likely the valve? . It was hard to turn over before I took off the starter and replaced the gear and before I put the starter back on, I manually turned the top of the engine till it moved smooth. Once the starter went back on it spins great but still no start.
could be something electrical or the coil has went bad you can pull the engine shroud off and the gas line so it wont run long their should be 1 wire going to the coil unhook that and it will run if the coil is good if not its the coil ive got a vid up of a mtd with a kholer i replaced the coil in they are a easy replacement
Double check method re Valve setting. You should be able to start your engine with some Starting Fluid if your fuel pump is pumping clean fuel and you have no water in carb bowl. Drain and clean carb bowl just a little water will keep it from starting. Are plugs good, cylinder dried of any remnant water droplets. If you have spark, can get it to start, you will know if your valves are correct,
well you can try to fish it out but i would pull the head if i know somethings in the head like that its probbaly wedged between the valve and the head ive never used anything except a philips screw driver to find tdc but when you have the valve cover off its not needed you just have to adjust them when the other is fully open i didnot use anything to fine tdc in the vid
So tweaking the top/intake fixed the lethargic start up. But....the damn exhaust/bottom valve keeps coming loose and the spring seat cap keeps coming off and the engine won’t restart as it needs to be readjusted. Hope it’s not ruined because that bottom push rod sometimes doesn’t even move when I’m turning by hand the piston. Like it’s not seated and then I find TDC + 1/4 turn to .009 clearance...then it runs fine to that bottom valve bounces loose again. May try to go .002 and see
Briggs ohv engines have a decompression valve on the intake side this allows it to drop a small precent of the compression by opening the intake valve sooner on the compression stroke so the starter can spin the flywheel up to speed.
Ok... If you have adjusted the valves correctly you could have a more seris problem such as came lubes wore down. This means that no mater how many times you adjust it, it wont ever work right with out replaceing the cam. You need to see how much movment the rocker arms move now as for adjustment they are usely set for a twin between 0.004 to 0.006 thousandths of an inch.
Check leakdown to check rings, valves and head gaskets. Remove the rocker arms and check leakdown to check valves and head gaskets. If the valves stick, remove the rockers and hit the spring with a hammer. If the rockers are real loose, the valve seat can be loose. Replace the head. Check head bolt torque. With the rocker off, remove the spring and rock the valve back and forth to check guide wear. Inject air to do this. Replace the springs because they lose tension.
I don't even know if you'll get this but here goes. If you adjust them at fully closed to .005 and it still won't turn over then your battery is low or the compression release on the cam is bad. Good luck brother.
hey great vid ,I have a yardwork 17 hp briggs motor don't know its an ohv as its at the cottage 3hrs away ,it does the same thing as yours did but only maybe a 2 to 3 inch revolution when turning the key to engage the starter oh ya checked to make sure it wasent the battery ,now motor doesn't turn at all .does this sound like valve adjustment is needed? don't know if they have ever been adjusted as I got this tractor when I bought the cottage ,ran fine 2 wks ago
When trying to adjust my valve , my intake valve compresses so little you are barely able to view it with the naked eye. could this be a problem or should it move more?
When trying to adjust my valve , my exhaust (not intake as in previous post) valve compresses so little you are barely able to view it with the naked eye. could this be a problem or should it move more?
I am having same problem with the exhaust valve barely moving as this gentleman..can you advise us more on this..it doesn't move like the bottom intake valve? Please advise
+Duane St John I had the same problem lower aluminum rod barely moved. Pull the push rod out and see if it is bent. My aluminum rod was slightly bent on one end. Something had to give as it went out of time (aluminum rod). Easier to fix than having two steel rods and having no give and breaking off some part of the block or head. I heated it up slightly (hot but not red hot) with a small propane torch. Placed the rod on a piece of hard, straight steel and used a ( hard) rubber mallet and gently tapped the 3/8 warp out of it. Had to heat the rod a few times and tap on it but is now straight. Helps if you have a ruler handy to check for straightness as you go. When the valves go out of time badly you will find the aluminum rod is usually bent. This is why you can hardly see it move. On mine it looks like it went out because the stem was loose and or no lock tight. Make sure to measure how much of the push rod is sticking out on the one that moves ok. When both are parallel with each other (rocker arms) (both you can wiggle) (loose). When you put it back in you have to fiddle around with the push rod a little bit to make sure it is seated inside the engine in the right spot. If you have it in the wrong spot it won't rest snuggly in the indent on the rocker arm (to far in). You will know it's in the proper spot when it seats nicely in the rocker arm indent (doesn't fall out (to short) not putting enough pressure on the rocker arm to hold it in place (like the other one). Then set your valves spin the motor and check again. Hope this helps.
When I try to start my mower it will make a thud noise flywheel moves a half turn then locks. what could be the problem Briggs & Stratton 12.5, I have checked all of these, battery fuse, spark plug, fuel and oil
pull the plug and turn it over by hand if it has fluid come out its a carb issue but if it will not turn freely 360 degrees its a internal issue it could be the starter its self or a low battery also
Arlis K Hirsch I had same problem...1/2 turn....solid thump...the magnets under the flywheel had come loose and shredded the stator... Lucked out and found used parts on eBay for cheap.
I see other videos people advice to have both valves at top death center to do that procedure, but you only put exhaust valve on top death center and adjust the valve. Please advise if my observation is correct
Maienduo Nava truthfully thats recommended but not totally necessary i turn the engine till i can fiscally see that the rocker arm is down all the way and usually its loose and adjust them ive don 50+ mowers like this and never had a issue
Question!!! My pops mower has this same issue.. At first he thought battery replaced it. He tested solenoid and starter. Good. I showed him your video and he did everything you instructed and he still hasn't been able to start mower. Any suggestions??
This will come in Handy for when it comes time to replace the cylinder head on my sisters friends (Smith) Intek lawnmower as she thought she hit a rock when mowing the lawn which means she thought that the key for the magneto pulley sheared off as the backfiring through the carby & exhaust manifold is a symptom of that. I put my finger over the spark plug hole while cranking the engine where I felt absolutely no resistance against my finger, I removed the valve rocker cover only to find out that the valve collet for the exhaust valve had sheared off & the valve had dropped down into the cylinder. When I removed the cylinder head , to my surprise the valve had been pushed through the exhaust port in the cylinder head without any damage to the bottom end of the motor which means the Aluminium cylinder head must have become very hot almost to the point of melting (I have heard of someone in Australia who melted a cylinder head on a Nissan RB30ET engine which was fitted into a Holden VL Commodore,in the 1980's Nissan signed a contract with General Motors Holden to say that legally the turbocharged engine could only be factory fitted into a Holden so the Australian built Nissan R31 Skyline was never fitted with that engine). Yeah , I don't know , she traded in her old lawn mower for the Intek one & paid $1000 AUD for that one when they (the lawnmower shop) could've chased up a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine for the same price & bolted it onto the old one she had which was still good - what was wrong with the old one? My guess is the conrod snapped as she noticed a clunking sound,I thought they were going to rebuild it at the shop,that would've been the other option,I think they fail because I think she probably never changes the oil in it,I have heard of people saying Briggs & Stratton engines are a heap of crap only to find most of them never get an oil change done on them over here. Yeah & I am a Jones! Why is it that I get that a Smith is all like that over here in Australia & they're getting a bad wrap with all of that stuff? (i.e. never looking after things & getting ripped off by dodgy people left ,right & centre !!)
Ok thanks for reading the comments before you post it's still same procedure exhaust or intake no matter the material of the pushrods so it's kinda irrelevant
This is all confusing for me to but these 2 parts mechanically do the came thing but are different the video talks about how to fix a issue using a couple tools a person can aquire to fix their own equipment not a in-depth look at how a engine runs and what does and to much info in makes a video about adjusting valves more Complicated than needed now dose it make sense
Not claiming to know it all, but I was taught the exhaust valve lines up with the exhaust pipe. Which is good to know as the variances between exhaust and intake are obviously different
@@ibdalovely1 ITS CALLED EASYSPIN, IT WAS DEVELOPED YEARS AGO SO A FEMALE COULD CRANK THE MOWER, IT IS ON THE INTAKE SIDE OF THE CAM, THE INTAKE VALVE IS INVOLVED IN MAKEING COMPRESSION, AS THE MOTOR IS TURNING FROM (ABDC) AFTER BOTTOM DEAD CENTER, THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE, STOCK MOTORS WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE AFTER THIS POINT, AS THE PISTOM MOVES TOWARDS (TDC) TOP DEAD CENTER, THEN THE PISTON GETS ABOUT HALF WAY UP AT THIS POINT THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BE ALMOST CLOSED, THE (SO CALLED "BUMP" WILL HOLD THE VALVE OPEN ABOUT .007 IN ORDER TO ACT AS A COMPRESSION RELEASE, AND THE VALVE SHOULD CLOSE ALL WAY AT 1 IN FROM TDC, BRIGGS SAYS THIS RELEASE WOULD HAVE NO EFFECT ON A MOTOR AFTER IT IS TURNING 1500 RPM AND ABOVE
