If you have an acoustic you don't want to use to truss rod to adjust action. The truss rod is for the bow (curve) in the neck. To lower action you want to adjust the saddle or nuts height.
To lower actions. Take off the strings and take out the saddle (use a pair of needle nose pliers, be careful) , Take a sharpie and mark the BOTTOM of the saddle and sand off the marker to make sure you get an even sanding. This will lower your action by that much. ALWAYS BE CAREFUL. BEST BET TO GO TO A PROFESSIONAL
To increase action: take off the strings, take out the saddle (using needle nose pliers, be careful) put a piece of paper under the saddle and place it back in. ALWAYS BE CAREFUL. BEST BET IS TO GO TO A PROFESSIONAL
You make it sound like this is the solution for high action and this is the solution. ACTION is NOT RELIEF. Gonna be a lot of sad guitar owners after this video.Thanks
@@johncanthearyou yes I do But when you adjust the truss rod, even just an 1/8th of a turn each time, it's either increasing or decreasing the amount of bow in the neck. Therefore the strings are now under a different amount of tention So to get an accurate reading of the adjustment you made it's important to 'reset' the tension pulling on the strings by checking you are still in tune
Also works on electric if anyone new to guitar is watching or just didn't know. It's either in a hole by the headstock, og by the body of the guitar. If it's the ladder you need to detach the neck from the body using the screws on the back
Its ok, don't worry !! The local guitar shop techs & luthiers will be happy to book you an appointment to see if they can fix your guitar after you try this guy's very detailed and informative instructions !!
I'm late to the party, but for optimal results make sure you do it near the end of your playing session. This is because you should wait a full 24hrs to let the wood settle and adjust to your tightening/loosening of the trust. This can get dangerous for your equipment fast if you dont know what youre doing. Hope this helps!
Capo the first fret. Push down E string at the 15th fret. There should be about .005” clearance at the 6th fret. You can use a feeler gage. Your welcome:
I always have to think about how and why we have a truss rod to remember which way to turn. The purpose is to counter the tension from the steel strings because they pull much harder than the strings on orchestral instruments like a violin. So basically tightening it makes it pull against the strings harder and loosening it will give it some slack and go where the strings are pulling
I remember people telling me oh don't do it yourself you'll break your neck, I was still super noob when I started learning about it and I feel like it helped me find my preferred action hight early on
And give it time between turns, I adjust over the course of a few days. It's easier than you think to warp the neck, and it's a problem you can't fix or undo, so just take the time to do it safely and correctly. You aren't saving time by ruining your guitar forever
Sometimes a bowed neck, is permanent due to abandon for years. No matter how much truss rod adjustment is done. I was close to breaking one. And the action was above the highest action on my tool. Sad, wasn't my guitar, it was a nice Washburn.
If only mine had a rod. It’s my grandmas old hand made guitar that got warped and the back is kind of coming off a little bit. It’s pretty much an antique that is just sitting in my basement now.
Das ist aber leider kompletter Schwachsinn, der Halsstab ist nicht dazu gedacht, die Saitenlage einzustellen. Von dieser Firma würde ich nichts kaufen, wenn die Angestellten nicht einmal die Basics verstehen.
To teach a part of this adjustment is not a good thing. While I'm sure some will find this adequate, you've been given partial information in this video that "could' lead to problems. For instance, many older guitars have single-action compression rods, not a 2-way rod like this Orangewood. With a single action rod, it'is best to slacken the strings, slowly tighten the rod to bring the neck into a slight reverse warp, bring the strings to pitch, then loosen the rod to proper relief. This keeps you from forcing the rod to bend the neck, but also make it fight the string tension. Doing it wrong usually leads to a t-rod that no longer adjusts b/c you've compressed the wood too much. This is just one example. So please just go slowly turning your T-rods. It is the only way to learn.
Dont get taken by obscuring tool names. The 'truss rod tool' is a bog standard 4mm Allen wrench. Tools will not make up for inexperience. Learn to achieve the task, or at least as close to it as possible, before dumping investments in fancy tools. A regular old Allen wrench will work just fine. If its difficult to turn, use a small socket and an extender to add more torque (do not over torque the rod and nut). Without the knowledge you wont appreciate what specialty do, how they do it, and which ones you actually need versus which ones you can live without. Ive seen tons of people with fancy tools gathering dust because they bought an expensive tool and screwed up the project, then never picked them up again.
You don’t want to use the trust rod to adjust that you’re gonna throw out your intonation or you’re going to mess up the trust because you turned that thing violently you’re only supposed to do quarter turns
I purchased orangewood Rey Mahagony my action is high now I adjusted the truss rod but it is fully tight and the action is still high I'm afraid please help
This advice is half baked like a lot of advice on these platforms. It is essential that before loosening or tightening tge truss rod that you bend the neck back slightly BEFORE you turn the nut. This takes the pressure off the nut and thread. Then let go of the neck and check. This is just common sense, otherwise you may strip the thread on the rod and then you are stuffed
Do not adjust action this way, you want some relief in the neck. Saddle height and neck angle should be taken into consideration as well as how the top of the guitars condition is.
I might probably want to sand down the bridge a bit because my strings are too high from frets and when it comes to tightening the truss rod, I get buzz
If you are facing the same issue, tighten or loosen the truss rod till it is slightly concave from the side strings are there, and it needs to be just slightly concave, if it's too concave you'll have problems playing, once that's done and buzzing is there, probably your bridge is too low, buy a new bridge and see a youtube tutorial on how to setup a bridge, once it's also set up, and problem persists, remember, the gap required between strings and frets on 12th fret is 2mm, no more or less, your guitar's frets are probably the problem, get a fretjob done, get new frets installed or a new guitar cuz if frets are the problem you mostly can't fix it.@@__-cg2hm
@@__-cg2hm At this point just buy a new bridge with nut and use a youtube video to calibrate your guitar from a zero. and if you did everything and still buzzes, you're either playing too loud or your guitar has build defects you didn't see while buying.. I would recommend seek professional help in this case as setting up bridge, nut and truss not is not for freshers, you can seriously damage guitar if you make any mistakes during truss rod adjustments, you must be familiar with the popular old joke, "adjust your truss rod till you hear a clicking sound". just don't
Yes, use a string tuned to pitch as a straight edge. If you fret a string at the 1st and 12th fret simultaneously this will make great reference to see how straight the neck is. There should be a gap between say .oo6" - .015" (that is 6 to 15 thousandth of an inch) between the bottom of the string and the top of the 6th fret. Your basically using the string as a straight edge "laying it on top of the 1st and 12th fret simultaneously to check the straightness of the neck. For reference a crisp American dollar bill is .004 of an inch: or 4 thousandth" thick. The thickness of four dollar bills is .016" thick or 1/64th of an inch, the smallest mark on a quality metal ruler. Tightening the truss rod will make the neck straighter, loosening it will let the neck bend with the tension of the strings. The amount of give or "bend" in the neck is called relief. By the way, more relief in the neck willll give you higher action, but the action on a guitar is set by adjusting the height of the string at the saddle, not by adjusting the truss rod. The truss rod is adjusted to give the least amount of string buzzing and to contract the tension of the stings, change in humidity, change in string tension due to string guage tension etc...
My strings on my bass are against the pickup but the action at the top of the neck is like 2/3” off the board it buzzed against the pickup in an open note and I can’t play anything else anyway because they strings are so high up
Dude, serious question! My guitar buzzes whenever i play a D note. Like if i playe the open D it buzzes, or if i play a D on the 5th fret of the A string I get a buzz. But nothing in between. Gat a fix!?!?
Contrary to the detailed inspection and tuning process OrangeWood claims, why do you think so many of your customers complain about quality control and inconsistency between identical models?
My top string is laying on top of the first and second fret and buzzes when I play. Should I make a raised nut so it clears the fret or is the another way
Yes, this can happen. I was a guitar tech for 7 years. Saw 1-2 guitars a year where some poor guy with a hex wrench and just enough knowledge to be dangerous cost himself a whole bunch of money. It can break the truss rod… it can unthread it so that it no longer works… it can pop the whole fretboard off the guitar…
Yes, you could, but that is why you never turn it more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time, then remeasure the amount of relief in the neck ( at the 12th fret) don't do it to adjust your action though per say, but it does affect your action. You adjust your actiom at the saddle.
This is misguided. You need to measure the relief in the neck to determine this. The action can be high on a straight neck. Action and relief work together but are NOT the same thing.
