Man, I’m glad I’m not the only person on here that’s watched a Dave moss video. 😂😂 There are too many content creators that don’t do this correctly, and it’s annoying af.
Super important. Learned this in the late 80's on my moto-x bikes. I agree, lotsa creators that miss this step. Totally makes me question their knowledge.
That’s wild in all My years at a dealership I have never seen a service manual say this nor have I ever had any sort of alignment issues. The newer bikes can’t really be fucked up. Calipers have dowels so they aren’t adjusted. Wheel has spacers specific to each side, a big axle bolt threads into a hole that cannot be moved or changed without loosening the fork mounts. Then 2-4 bolts to lock it in place and keep it tight.
Good video, make sure you tighten the pinch bolts on the side with the nut. The other side is the variable side that is able to move freely and be adjusted.
@@Roller-01 Honda is just a different breed of bike. Sort of like comparing a light infantry vehicle to a tank. The CBR has a drift car turning radius where for example on my r6 and r1 I look like Austin powers on that little electric car in the tunnel all the time.
Just what I needed for my first time I taking off my front wheel myself. Despite needing to do so to replace a tire, I found out my spacer needed to be replaced. Good video bro! 👊🏾✊🏾
You know, I was just going to look this up on RU-vid and the next few days because I got to change my tire on the front of my bike. Good job bro thank you.❤
Interesting. I change wheels all the time and have never done this nor have I ever heard about it. This is something looking into. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for all the info you put out.
Good tips with aligning your calipers, but remember to also bounce the forks up and down to have the axle, wheel and forks where they want to be before tightening down the pinch bolts.
Good god this channel is gonna be a life saver when I really really get into my motorcycle and have the money to work on it. Thank you. Been watching for quite some time
I think you may have done that wrong. The end without the nut is the part that would spin freely (since the other side would be held in place by the nut) tightening the pinch bolts on the opposite side to the spindle nut and then bouncing the bike might not have actually aligned the forks with the brake disks.
On the Aprilia the axle goes through the left leg first so it is indeed the captive side. On my bmw it goes through the right leg and screws into another collar in the left which is free to move. But it looks exactly the same as this left leg which is why I was confused at first.
Super helpful stuff, I’ve been riding for a year and honestly had no idea about this 😅, I was wondering if you’ve ever heard of Gullinbursti hoodies, they are armored motorcycle hoodies and they look dope, just thought it might be cool to do a review on
Was planning on painting my rims, had everything appart except for the front brake rotor bolts. Since even Heat couldn't get them appart put everything back to how it was nice having a short alignment quide.
Its the other side without the nut that needs to be loosened after you tighten the wheel nut. The fork on the side without the nut can move freely on the axle, the other side can't after tightening. This is the correct way 👌
Excellent! Thanks! My 2023 Hayabusa manual states to first torque the axle nut to proper torque then tighten the axle nut side pinch bolts to torque values. After pressing the handle bars several times, torque the pinch bolts on the other side. So maybe Aprilia has different alignment methods???
I hope you loosened those pinch bolts on the left before you compressed the suspension, that's the side that needs the fork leg to center up. The axle cant slide relative to the right fork once the nut is snugged up.
I few questions (I have never worked on a sport bike) 1.unless the axel is cammed then how does it effect the alignment. 2. The bike was already setting on the forks so what did putting it on the tire compressing the suspension then lifting it back up on the forks do. 3. Unless the calipers have in and out adjustment why do they need to be clamped down before tightening them up (this is one of the benefits of disk brakes they are self adjusting)
I’ve been working on my bikes for 14 years and I’ve never pulled the brake lever when tightening the calliper bolts, never had an issue. The only time I’d do that is on a push bike.
IDK I'm pretty sure that's backwards cuz the gsxr are similar setup. And the side with the nut is the captive fork. The nut sets the axle with that fork and the open side is the free fork that needs to be aligned. IDK i could be wrong with that bike but I know for a fact 100% on GSXRs you need the special socket and you have to tighten the NUT side pinch bolts first then align the OPEN side fork, then tighten the OPEN side pinch bolts.
Just an FYI, this only has to be done if youre removing your calipers for service or swapping them out entirely. If youre only removing your front wheel and the calipers were already aligned then the front wheel should go back on with no problem and no rubbing!
Have not had a problem with any late model bikes either doing this or not doing it. I think the forks and materials are so strong these days it is not a very big concern. In the 60s and 70s it did make a difference due to inferior metals and fork flexing. Good video though!!
They also don't really care what happens to the parts as long as it gets through a singular race, teams cut a bunch of corners to get what needs done done. No race mech can truthfully maintain their own machines the same way they take care of race machines. High level motorsport racing also used specialized parts, not designed for regular use anyway
Thanks for this. My calipers sit on spigots- they can't move or align to anything. Also, none of that stuff he is is taking about could possibly tighten up in any other position than the correct one.
@hotshot2101 wrong. Unless something got bent, there is no alignment for brakes. The wheel spacers align the front wheel. The only alignment fix if forks, discs, or hangers are bent are new parts. You are clueless.
Never seen it done like this before. I tighten in the same order just didn't lower the front to the ground, bounce the front end then raise again before torque the caliper bolts. I think that's what I saw?
Yo congratulations on 70k and this came perfect time I have to change the front tire for my project bike and thought you just threw it on there and hit the road. 😂
That's pretty cool knowing 9/10 sport bikes crash and those that don't are returned buy older guys. Those are facts comming from the dealership who my family has done business for years and 20+ years ago. I was thinking and wanting a crotchrocket and the salesman we knew said absolutely no 9/10 crash and high death high bad injurie and then old guys just trade them in quick for a four wheeler and dirt bike or 2 four wheelers. That salesman saved my life 💯 by telling it straight.
Incorrect steps. Wheel up. Axle in and nut on. All nuts and bolts loose. Snug up the axle bolt. Spin front wheel, apply front brake, repeat a couple of times. Disc/ wheel is now centered. Compress front brake with a lever (locking on) and tighten. lower wheel to ground. Left twin bolts are still loose. Firmly compress forks on ground so that free side/left floats to find it's natural center of fork travel. Snug up. Lift wheel Torque to specs. Unless these steps aren't done in this order the fork bushings will wear unevenly.
@Mike Ames the sliders should be aligned correctly. The front end of a bike is a delicate mechanism. A Lot of stuff relies on stuff being set up correctly. Incorrect front end setup can end up with tank slappers. If it were my bike I'd fix it. Ride safe mate!
You are supposed to tighten the pich bolts opposite the nut just to torque the nut. Then loosen the pinch bolts again. Then have someone compress the forks while holding the brake, while you torque the pinch bolts. This process is to make sure the fork tubes are perfectly aligned, otherwise you will have undue wear and damage to your fork internals. Not really sure what you are "aligning" with calipers, because the pistons will center themselves to the rotors.
If the correct torque settings are used itnshould be in alignment... the bearings and spacers set the alignment not the pinchbolts. If you are adjusting the forks I would say the step of lowering the bike and compressing can help but not for a wheel removal. Also the discs are floating usually the caliper is floating you have no alignment on a caliper for that reason so it all seems a lot of work for nothing tbh.
My caliper bolts are not 25 foot pounds. They are 33 foot pounds. Arbitrarily throwing out torque specs for one bike doesn’t help anybody with a different bike. They’re all going to be different.
@@thagingerninjer5391 you got the point, not to over tighten. Measure twice, cut once? Please, nobody is going to use my specs for their bike. Are they stupid? Did I mention a specific bike. I’m sorry I didn’t bring my crayon’s
Does this apply to dirt bikes also? I've been riding dirt for 38yrs, got my boys riding and we always work on our own bikes and I never heard about doing this.
There are two videos for front axle and front wheel alignment. #1 is “Aligning motorcycle fork legs properly after mounting the front wheel” Motorcycle suspension tuning 1. Torque axle , torque pinch bolts on the thread side. 2. Bounce front end several times to set free leg straight then torque pinch bolts. 3. Leave caliper bolts quarter turn loose, spin wheel and apply brakes and no not release the lever. 4. Torque brake caliper bolts
lesson to anyone watching this who wants a bike he's doing a major service job himself, let that sink in it's in his driveway he's doing it cuz all garage suc
Love to see him do it wrong, the pinch bolts on the side without the nut need to be loose when compressing the fork so the left fork tube can move freely on the spindle and align itself.
