A lot of crafters use that or anther paint called chalk paint. It’s too bad that a lot of carpenters and woodworkers look down on these folks and these products
This is so helpful! I am building out my 1988 chevy van to live in and travel and I have so many pieces of miscut wood that I need to make into something beautiful. Thank you for the inspiration!
Everybody here is ragging on your question but I thought it was very appropriate. There's a huge difference between 1/3 and 3/4 which the latter is what it looks like he's dipping it to.
Hi Daniel, you do not sand the last layer of paint. Ideally you will smooth the surface before you start applying paint and then only sand between coats. You can apply grain filler to the wood before painting if there is deep grain. If you’re using latex paint, you can also use an additive, such as Floetrol, to help the paint flow and level for a smoother finish.
Hi Tom, a clear coat over paint has the tendency to yellow over time. That may not be the case with water-based polyurethane, but a well-applied painted finish is really sufficient all by itself.
I'm going to be making an entertainment center, and painting it. I'm confused with all the information out there. Some people say use an oil based paint because it sinks deep into the pores of the wood. I've also been told to mix aConditioner into the paint to thin the oil based paint down and to avoid roller and brush marks. I'm not sure if I need a primer/sealer prior to painting the raw wood or the oil paint is okay to use alone. Please explain when to use latex verses Oil based paint and when to use a sealer and when you don't need a sealer .
A quality primer is important to a long lasting durable painted furniture finish - so yes, use one. As to oil based vs. water-based finishes, as long as they are a high quality product, either type provide a good painted surface. (There is no rule as to one should be used here and the other there.) As to using a conditioner, they do help paint to flow and leave a smooth coat - many painters swear by them, others do not. So conditioners seem to be a personal preference. If you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com.
Hi there, there are a couple of reasons to add wax to a painted finish. One that is very popular now is to address a problem with true chalk paint. The specialty chalk paints on the market create a flat finish and in truth are not a high-quality protective finish. Still, they are very popular for how they look. Like many fads based on looks alone, the performance is less than optional, so chalk paint folks have added wax to make the surface feel good to the touch and to add a small degree of protection. They also use colored wax as a way to add color and interest, creating “shadows” and patterns with the wax. If you are using a standard paint, a clear topcoat is usually not needed, although many people practice this in certain situations. Those coats can yellow or get cloudy over time and change the look of the paint. Additionally, scratches in the clear coat are visible if they occur. However, paint itself is a very durable finish. A coat of wax on this sort of finish will add a small degree of protection, but in this case, its most important quality is that the surface feels like silk.
Quick question: I've read in multiple places about using TAC cloth after sanding to remove the sawdust prior to priming, yet you didn't do so here. Is there a reason why?
If you sand, you have to remove dust. You don't want it in paint. You can vacuum and wipe with damp cloth. TAC cloth can also be used and was the standard.
Liked the idea of thinning the paint with water, thanks for the video. I was thinking of adding a final coat or two of clear polyurethane which should protect against chipping and scratch damage? I'm not liking waxing as it would mean cleaning and redoing the finish periodically, and would not give any scratch protection, why wax at all?
I painted wood and the paint did not stick after 1 month of curing. Everyone seems to talk about hiding the woodgrain, but I want the woodgrain. After 3 coats of paint, I still had the wood grain look, but the peeling killed my project. I feel I need a primer, but not to hide wood grain. Is this possible?
It would seem there is an underlying problem with the wood you are painting. For it to be peeling so quickly, there may be a surface contaminant interfering with the bond. You must get rid of that to allow the paint to stick. You can do this by cleaning the bare wood with mineral spirits and even soap and water to get the wood fibers to the point that the paint will bond. There is also a possibility there was still a significant amount of moisture in the wood when it was purchased, which can prevent the paint from bonding properly. But yes, it is possible to paint wood and still leave the wood grain visible. Thin the paint a bit and apply a thin coat of the paint and the grain pattern will shine through. Many people love this look.
@@rockler The cabinets are 21 years old. I think they were originally painted with oil, since it was the go to back then. I was told a good sand would make it hold paint, but I don't think that worked. I have used a stripper and gotten all of the shine erased and even see original wood @ about 70%. But I still think a primer would help, I just want one that doesn't hide grain and maybe just 1 coat, maybe thinned also. The paint was pure urethane alkyd with no primer built in. I also may have painted coats too fast. I waited longer than directions, but will wait 2 days next time. And maybe I tried to cover to good on the first coat, but I would think a month of drying would have corrected this.
While chipping due to wear is likely impossible to avoid over time, proper application of paint will help prevent it from happening. A surface sanded smooth and free of contaminants. A good quality primer followed by a high quality paint. While you can paint over varnish or shellac, they would not be more effective than a primer when it comes to paint adhering to the wood.
@@rockler Would it be the same thing to use for now my own acrylic paint, that I've been using for my canvas paintings or is this specially made for wood?
