My favorite thing to reuse are the mushroom containers from your bulk stores. I find them perfect for paint, stain, poly, oils, mineral spirits etc. These containers are plastic and stackable. Great video and good tips. 🤞
awesome video sir, thank you very much for it. i wish i saw this before i trried using a brush on poly on my desk project and completely butchered it - had to sand it al the way down, stain and all and start over. will be trying this out throughout the day today!
@@MadNerdWorkshop perfect - wipe on is 100% the way to go, at least for a novice like myself. Very smooth finish and an amazing look. the house I purchased had a butcher block type work table in the basement. It was completely trashed, so I “reclaimed” it sort of and installed some standing desk legs onto after sanding and cleaning it up. Came out pretty great if you ask me. Happy holidays!
I love how honest you are about stuff, haha. "I apply in a circle motion then I wipe with the grain. Does it make a difference? Probably not. That's just how I do it."
Thanks for the tips. Using it on my new Farmhouse Table, Ash Butcherblock Top. Stained with Minwax Oil Based Expresso. My wife loves it. Thanks again for the video.
Not sure on that one, mine are about 4 years old and they still go on well. But I need to use it up this year. Otherwise I think it will be too old. I am sure the manufacturer can answer that question. dispose just like you do for old paint (oil or water base), I take them to my local hazardous material location.
I’m having a heck of a time with the wipe on poly. I apply a coat as evenly as possible. When I come back, there are raised spots where there was more. When I sand those to remove, I remove the stain. When I reapply the poly, I get these streaks that look dry/wet. They dry that way.
Not sure what the problem would be. Generally if you apply it with a rag there is very little problem with it. But you can not apply it with an even coat, you will need to wipe it off before the pools of liquid dry. I don't know if that helps.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks for the reply. Yeah I tried using a little and using a lot. Same results. It’s weird, I’m looking everywhere online and not a single person talks about this problem.
@@MadNerdWorkshopit’s a birch butcher block. Did 3 coats of espresso minwax stain. Applying the wipe on poly, I used a foam applicator. Then I used a shop towel. The raised spots were prolly due to drips I guess. The raised waves and streaking happened with the shop towel. At first I did just with the gain motion. After I more rubbed it in and then finished with the grain. So basically it’s smooth, but were there are issues, it looks like if it was on a vertical surface, by which I mean it looks like it hardened “running/runny”.
@@aguiremedia That sounds like it is going on too thick. sand with 320 then 600 to smooth out any bumps. this apply the wipe on with a rag (like an old tee shirt) that will give you a very thin coat and you should not get any pooling or drips. Let dry then use scotch bright finishing pad (or something like that), Apply another coat the same way.
Hi Bill, I actually have two links in the shuffleboard video to the pucks. I used both of these and they both work quite well. Standard Shuffleboard Pucks Equipment Rollers Set: amzn.to/2JwaKaf Better Shuffleboard Replacement Pucks (16 Pieces): amzn.to/33EIQ2K
You could but you will have to make sure the base is prepped so the wipe-on has a good surface. Because wipe-on Poly is not applied with a brush or sprayed the layers are thin, so they are not as durable as other finishes might be for the table.
That is a good question Thomas. I have never added stain to the poly so I can't say how that would work. If I were to want to stain, I would do it first, and then add the poly. That way if I didn't like the looks of it, I could redo it, or adjust it before applying the finish. I hope that helps you.
I've read about making your own wipe on poly using 1 part poly and 1 part mineral spirits. Have you tried this at all? Thought it would be a lot cheaper but never tried.
Yes you can make your own, but I too have never tried that. If I couldn't find it anywhere, then I probably would try to make some. Let me know if you do and how it turned out, I would be interested in that. Thanks for tuning in, take care.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I tried my first batch and made it a 1:1 mix of mineral spirits and poly. It seems to apply almost the exact same as the wipe on poly. I’ve done about 3 coats and all good so far!
Great video. I want to try this product on a bedroom set stained top. Can I used it on the body that is painted with white chalk paint to protect the finish? I normally used clean wax, but want to used something that last longer. Or do you thing it would yellow it my white finish? TIA
I've just had a teak table delivered that has a very uneven texture as it's made of old floorboards so thats why i was thinking wipe on poly but I'm in CA so there is no buying any oil based wipe on poly for me which was my plan. 🤦♀️ I want a really durable finish to protect the table from the children. Do you have any suggestions?
hey, strongly recommended not to use tack cloth. it can cause fishing eyeing. ask me how i know =/ minwax also doesn't recommend it, not sure why they don't put it on the label.
That is true it can if you press too hard on the cloth when wiping with it. Because different manufacturers use different base chemicals for impregnating the cloth (beeswax, uncured varnish and many others), it can have a reaction with the finish. I alway press very lightly with the cloth and have never had a problem with it. But if you want to be absolutely safe, you can just blow off the surface with air and use any lint free cloth. Very good tip Bardia. Thanks for the comment and watching.
No, you can alway pop the grain before, applying the finish. With maple wood I don't have much of a problem with the grain coming up after applying the finish. But if you use water, make sure it dries completely before applying the finish.
I used polycrylic and it made my wood kinda orange yellow so I sanded it down again. If I use wipe on polyurethane will it change the color of the wood much??? I really want to keep the natural color of the wood
For a bathtub I would think you need the finish to be waterproof. Polyurethane would not be waterproof, as a result I would not try that for a bathtub coating. But I am by no means an expert on bathtub coating.
I have with fine results. You want the epoxy to be as smooth as you can get it. Doesn't have to be glossy, but no big scratches or they will show through when finished.
Yes you can, but as Thomas said, you really need to sand the surface smooth. You would actually have to go down to 400-600 grit and I would use wet sanding to get it really smooth.
California is going to all water base finishes, and finding solvent base Poly is a bit harder than it was. But you can still find it just not at the big box stores.
Finally a clear and precise video. Didn't have to hear any views on society or pictures of your dog. Or watch someone trying to get their personality across rather than an explanation of the product and its application. Great video. Thanks
Thank you for the great video. I am redoing my timber bedroom furniture and was wading through other videos that were making me think I had made a mistake taking on this project. I have never done anything like this before. But after watching your friendly clear instructions I now feel able to finish my project. You have eliminated the brush or roller questions. I have gathered all my equipment and will start the finish on Saturday feeling empowered. Thank you 🙏🏼
Finally a no wank explaination video on this stuff! I have been making the same mistakes twice in a row based on poor explanations, and had almost given up. But followed this and nailed it first time. Thank you!!
Great video. I'm planning to use the same product on an oak oak vanity table in my bathroom. Does the product change the colour of natural wood (oak)? I'm hesitating to stain the wood before applying or applying it directly on the natural wood. Thanks
Yes, absolutely. Most finished, once they are dry are food safe. If you are using this on a table, be sure to apply 3, 4, or even 5 coats. Wiping on these thin coats will require more so that it will be durable and last.
If I'm putting poly on my entire project after in done with the top can I immediately flip it over to do the bottom if I have those staining and painting triangles that rest the project in the tips of the triangle? Or should I wait for the one side to dry first?
Yes you can just flip it over and paint the other side with those painting triangles. I would recommend starting with the back or bottom first, then flip it over and work on the finish side last. that was if there are any small marks, they will be on the bottom/back side and not bee seen. Thanks for Watching Inspector Steve.
@@MadNerdWorkshop One question... I did this on a 30" x 60" birch butcher block desk top. However, I have foggy streaks in the finish, even after 3 coats. Any tips for avoiding these streaks?
You can use Wipe-On Poly for the stair step and banister. However, you will have very thin coats on them and they will most likely not last a good about of time like a good varnish or lacquer finish. The good news is that when it needs to be refinished, it will only require a small amount of sanding and reapplication to look as good as new. I would recommend a more durable finished like varnish or lacquer.
I can't find the 3M Between Coats Finishing Pads that you show in the video ( great video) -The link you included below is different than what you show in the video. Any ideas where to get them? Thnak you
The last place I found them was at Lowes, But I am not sure if they still carry them. There are different brands that do the same thing. All you need to make sure is that you have the one with the finest grit.
Nice relaxed presentation. Remaining calm during glue-ups and final finishing is always a good trait, lol. I have used wipe on poly for many years and still got some good info on your demo. I watched it for some reason right? I was reminded that as years went by that I took off too much between coats and probably was not applying quite enough to start with. One thing about wipe on poly that I picked up from another channel was that the main difference was the amount of mineral spirits it is mixed with as opposed to the brush on product. I still buy the wipe on for convenience but thought it was interesting…any thoughts?
Hi, great video. I sanded down an old dining table and applied 2 coats of danish oil, but realized it was not strong enough of a finish. Would I have to re-sand it down again before applying the wipe on poly? Thanks in advance.
I would test it out one a different piece that you can hand paint first. I am not sure how it would affect the water markers. Sorry I never did anything like that so I don't have an answer for you on that one. If you do test it out, let me know how it worked.
Hi Dwight, it takes anywhere from 2-6 hours depending on you location (humidity and heat). I apply a coat in the morning and one later on in the day around.
I used Polyacrylic as a sealer on a nightstand I had. I don’t have experience, so I used a glossy one, which now I think I should have used more of a satin finish, and also, I put one thick coat. (Yes, no experience with this stuff). Is it possible for me to correct it somehow if I sand it down or something, and yet save the paint that is underneath the sealer?
HELP! I've watched your video, along with several others, to learn about wipe on poly techniques. I'm restoring vintage speakers from the early 80's and so far I've been able to refinish all three vertical sides with ease using similar techniques but the top of the speaker has been an absolute nightmare. I've removed and redone these top surfaces 4-5 times now because once I get beyond 2-3 coats i start getting this white film or fog across the surface and I can't figure what's causing it. I'm not sure if it's due to temperature difference than the vertical sides, the cloth that I'm using which is a cut up white t-shirt. I just can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Yes, I bought a new can of poly and I've been trying to run a small heater to get the temp into the 60's. I thought it might be residue fun the rag so I cut a new one each time I apply a coat, I make sure there's no residue before applying another coat. So baffled.
@@LEPersonal-pf5wz I would say you need to get into the 60 and above during the whole drying time. But I am really not sure, sorry not much in the way of help.
I use to use the brush on oil based poly and cut it to make it a bit thinner and use it like a wipe on. But I tried the water based wipe on poly and was converted. I prefer the faster dry time, especially in the high humidity we have here in Kansas during the summer. Thanks for the video ! Now a new sub to your channel. I enjoy the easy going nature of your videos over the "high octane gotta speed thru it" videos of other channels.
Thanks KSFWG and thanks for sharing. I think as soon as I run out of my two cans of the oil base, I will try one of the water based poly and see how it works. Take Care.
great video, just wondering what should you place under the wood so it does not leave marks, I have seen many different options just wondering your thoughts. thank you
James, I like to use the Rockler Bench Cookies with the Finishing cones on top. Here are some links to them. Bench Cookie Plus Work Grippers with Bench Cookie Risers: amzn.to/3vUd5xF Rockler Bench Cookie Plus Work Gripper (Single): amzn.to/3jf6Pya Bench Cookie Cones: amzn.to/3qv95mf
The Manufacturer recommend 2-3 hours between coats, depending on the humidity of where you live. I live in the desert so I can apply another coat rather soon. But you can even wait a day before applying the second coat. I generally apply all three of my coats within a day.
Oil based poly does have a slight amber color to it, but I have not noticed it changing over time. But I am sure that there was some color change that happened, I just don't see it.
They are called Between coasts finishing pads or 3M Synthetic Steel Wool. Here are a couple of links to them: amzn.to/3pX4ec8 amzn.to/3q5JqPT Thanks for watching.
you could use a palm sander, but all you really need to do is remove any dust particles that may have landed on the wet surface. The palm sander may grind through the thin coat of poly rather quickly, so be careful with it.
thanks for the reply. I am getting ready to finish my outdoor butcher block countertop. After online research this what I have gathered 1. Sand 320 Grit 2. Apply Wipe on Poly 3. Sand 320 Grit 4. Apply Wipe on Poly 5 Sand 400 Grit Extra Coat…maybe
@@MadNerdWorkshop I've used india ink over some plywood as wanted black timber but satin look and nothing to long used danish oil over that but want a bit more protection
The only thing I can think of is the gel stain was too thick or not completely dry. You will have to sand it down and retain and reapply it. Did the poly take off the stain all around or did it just take if off of some of the areas?
@@edythesandefur1298 Just enough to feather out the area you are going to stain. But sometimes that will be hard to match the stain, the poly would be no problem. If it is a tv stand with a flat top, it might be easier to remove it all with a sander and just start again. That way you have an even stain across the area. I would also check the manufacture's data and make sure the stain is compatible with the poly. I never had a problem with stain poly, but then again I have never used gel stain before.
A couple of things could cause that, the wipe-on my be too thick or it is being applied too thick. But not every finish is right for everyone or every job. What do you normally use?
