I came to see more close-ups of the beautiful grain and finished product. 😔. At end of video just that would be great ☺️. Thanks for the info and posting
Hi Dan, really helpful video. Just a quick couple of questions. Do you use the Scotch-Brite pad after every 320 grit sand or just after the initial 3 coats. And do you have a recommended minimum drying time between coats to allow the solvent to dry? Thank you for your help
I will follow up a sanding pass with a scotch bright pad for any instance when I haven't yet got my surface "flat". If there are still low areas remaining and I don't want to sand back further to remove them then I'll use a scotch bright pad to key them up and then continue building some more volume. From say coat 6 onwards when the surface is starting to get flat I will tend to just sand. Minimum time for the solvent to release I would say is around an hour if you are working in reasonable temperatures. A good check with PP varnish is a light touch of the surface, if it feels touch dry with a light surface tack then this is usually when I proceed with the next coat. If you are unsure then it's best to leave it a little longer to prevent potential solvent entrapment as you've got anything up to 48 hrs to re apply and maintain a chemical bond between coats.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding thank you very much Dan! That is really helpful and it’s much appreciated. Would you recommend leaving for 24 hours after every 3 coats before sanding or just the initial 3?
I have a video on that... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NFvDd0HwNjc.html using this method means you need very little brush thinners for a thorough clean 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Thanks Dan. Do you do follow the same process for PPVernis Extra? Is there an alternative (cheaper) solvent that can be used for PPVernis Extra? The Epifanes PP thinner is expensive and I'd prefer to use it for thinning varnish rather than cleaning brushes
@SuperGardenshed yes, I’d probably suggest acetone for that. I know the PP thinner contains acetone so I would think it will be effective at cleaning it as well. Standard “gun wash” thinners may also work ok.
Yes, I would sand by hand with the grain any time that I am still working "in the wood grain" so as to not create cross grain scratches in the woods surface. Once the wood grain is filled and I'm sanding "on top of the grain" (circa coat 6 onwards) I will go over to the sanding machine.
Yes it is ideal for that, take a look at this video for a full method: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_HY9LnSJxLE.htmlsi=4vsLu68Mm59pQx47 Just remember to properly wash of the amine blush first and ideally use the West System 207 special clear hardener for the epoxy coating process as it contains UV inhibitors and generates very little amine blush.
