I'm a 45 + year combination collision repair, metal and refinish, professional. I started out with lacquer primer and paint on late 60s and 70s vehicles. Your system is awesome, your products are top notch, your tools are state of the art. I'm envious of your paint booth, your dust collection system, and the size of your shop. Your results speak for themselves. I've seen refinish work with those tiny bubbles in 3 to 6 months after being stripped and refinished. Tiny rust bubbles lifting all that expensive material off the metal. Congratulations on your success. Watching you use and teach those tricks I've learned through years in the shop is so cool.
We used to use Ppg epoxy primer for sealer on metal, as a sealer on top of filler before primer and as a sealer before base coat . That was before the newer lead free version. The old school Ppg epoxy was incredible stuff. Years later I ended up working for Ppg making paint products
The original green gray DP40 with lead and chrome was unreal. It's been decades since I've used it but it was super tough and didn't build as much as the new epoxy technology. That's not necessarily a good or bad thing, but the old DP on chassis parts and frames was perfect. The epoxies from Tamco, Revolt, and Southern Polyurethanes is orders of magnatude better than the modern, denuded garbage. Then again, you can pretty much say that about most ppg products now.
Excellent content as always. Add tip sizes also please for us true amateurs and pressure. Even if you add thinner let us know. I recently shot my very first 2 k primer. It went on like sand. I was so freaked I sanded it then shot 2 more coats. This time I shot it at 40 and it laid smooth. The gauge on the gun was from a friend and it’s from the 90’s. Could be bad. I shot down some more over the sand throughs and reduced it and it laid fine at 28. My lid turned out about 70 percent, looks good from 10’. I’m doing the hood and fenders next and I want those to look perfect. Maybe I will drive it up to you. Your 4 hours north or the at paint society. I think he’s around here. I’m in west palm.
finally someone on RU-vid doing it right... epoxy should always be used on bare metal... and should always be spotted in after braking threw... slick sand.. feather fill... which ever one you use is a good primmer for filling ... but can not be wet sanded as it can trap water... im not sure if you have used the PPG viberance collection primer... VP2050.. it is a DTM primer... was told epoxy..based but unsure... finish body work to 150 to 180... which should be done anyway to help with products shrinking and showing sand scratches... finalize body work 180... apply this product.. start blocking 180... go to 400... spray sealer .. then base... saves the step of the polyester primer.. then the 2k... its an amazing product you should try this product ... again it is great to see someone doing the correct steps ...
@@kandyman5315 no problem i appreciate you showing people the correct way to do things... there are so many people on here showing people how to do things wrong...
Yeah its interesting. I have done it both ways and no come backs. I was using DTM urethane that when reduced is a sealer. Then mud work followed by the same DTM not reduced for a high build. If finished in 400 I can avoid a sealer before base. The shop Im at now is Epoxy, mud, high build poly then sand to 400 and they then seal and base. The epoxy is really a tough product and I don't see corrosion getting under it. The MIL build with featherfill is impressive with just two wet coats.
saw you using slick sand,then i knew it would turn out gravy,restored cars for 50 years,if i had ,had that stuff decades ago i'd of got a lot more done that i did,a lot of sanding for nothing,this product save hours and countless hours,i like the way you are using the modern chemicals and hardners for lasting finishes,great work
Awesome work👍There is always this ongoing debate of epoxy vs Etch or whether filler should go on top of epoxy or bare metal.For restorations I’ve always used epoxy first ,collision work where time is money we use etch and primer I guess it’s a personal preference
I never epoxy prime anymore. I mix fiberglass resin in with body filler and do a skim coat over the whole body. It bites to the sanded bare metal hard and the resin makes it easy to spread plus waterproof. Saves a bunch on materials, masking and multiple layers of different primers
Thanks for sharing this Kandy Man you have a really nice system where you can use the epoxy as a wet-on-wet over the cut throughs then go straight in with the polyester primer, it must make the process easier, oh and well done on hitting the 5K subs👏🙏👍John UK
Excellent! I been doing wrong, I apply Epoxi Cre-321 and apply over the plastic filler 30 minutes I apply the paint and clear. So far I didn’t have any job back. But thank you for sharing you knowledge.
I watched your video, and it seems as though you are on the right track and do quality work. The one ting that struct me more than anything is the wet on wet with Slick Sand over epoxy primer. That is Not a recommended procedure. They are two very different types of products, and the epoxy and the MEKP activator in the Slick Sand can actually fight each other. They will dry and cure at very different rates. BTW: if you love the Optex fillers, and putty, you should really try the Optex Super Build polyester. Outstanding product, and not antiquated like Slick Sand.
Fantastic work I wouldn’t do it any differently, I love jobs done with spray polyester Excellent work 👍👍👍 I’ve just started my channel it’s new but I’ve put a video up using a transparent spray filler for carbon fibre on a forged carbon fibre roof on a GR Yaris, if you have time to take a look 👍
@@kandyman5315 I think he wants you to e mail your logo over to him as he wants to airbrush it on aluminium in candy fire him an e mail over bro his e mail address will be on one of his vids at the end 👍👍hope you two can pull this off as you both are my go to u tube viewing 😉😉
method, could you try on door like the one just shown ,when applying filler , skim your lows and just beyond and with the rest applying opposite , you'll find applying and rubbing only once , then just pin holes , then prime interested to know how you go 🤔
i watched you video again and i noticed you said that you can put slick sand rigth away after the epoxy coat is flashed so you dont have to sand i just want to make sure so does that mean i can spray epoxy and slick sand same day all together does this work at home ? i am doing a 1972 corvette
Sorry im a noob. My question is why did you put glaze on bare metal. I thought you said you wanted a layer of epoxy between the bodyfiller and bare metal?? I dont know i was just asking if i missed something. I did learn something applying epoxy then filler then level it out and then re epoxy again to cover any bare metal then hit it with 2k high build. ❤
Kandyman have you tried HIGHTECK primer that is DTM,SEALER and High build all in one? If so what is your take on it as a foundation? Asking from a backyard painter.
I have used DTM urethane high build that can be reduced for a sealer for years. It works fine and can be wet sanded. I don't think it will resist corrosion as well as epoxy. But it will simplify things to a single product as you can base over it if it in 400 or finer finish. I have since switched to a epoxy, mud, poly high build, seal base coat process.
Question on next step, so you put the slick sand on, after this do you block it to like 320 then put the epoxy sealer on it and then straight to base coat?
Slick sand then block with 180 or 220, then 2k urethane prime, then finished in 400 to 600 then ready for paint haven't showed 2k step on this job yet👍
hey hope your days is going great, i have a question I used omni mp182 urathane primer its it ok if i lay my base coat before 24houra lets say like 4 hours before waiting a whole day. y did two heavy coats
and can i use some Spray primer on a small area that needs some glaze so i dont have to wait another 24 hours to prime again i think you said sealer wont cover glaze because its porus and will absorb it
@@kandyman5315 I can try to describe it to you the paint job to look absolutely awesome in all aspects except for when you look down the entire side of the car if you squat down from a distance look down the side it has this weird chunky wavy texture to it the whole thing and no I'm not talking about bad body work
Yes that is caused by to much material on the vehicle I mentioned that in my last video on the cutlass at work . That also why I did not flow coat my cutlass. To much produc on job looks worse
If you epoxy the whole car and then go past your seven day window do you have to re-epoxy before putting body filler on it? Or do you just hit it with 80 grit? Would you mind sharing the epoxy brand?
So expoxy within 7 day grace, you dont have to sand expoxy before filler work? Then when all bodywork done throw it in slick sand polyester primer then sand with around 180-220 then some high build 2k primer sand finish with around 500 grite and then ready to go ? Also after the slick sand do you recommend letting it sit for few weeks for all shrinking to he done ? Thanks in advance for replying i normal dont do restoration work
@@kandyman5315 is there any chance for sanding marks or the slick sand hold them up. If you put epoxy than bodyfiller and then 2k primer on top how would you scrach the epoxy before bodyfiller 180 maybe i'm scared becayse 80grid is agresive to put boddyfiller on top if it's not on bare metal. Many thanks for sharing your knowlage with us . Keep doing your great job, your's videos are one of the best out there.
I use a 1.8 but have used a 3.0 for slick sand. I rarely get more than two coat down as it starts to gel if its hot and I wait 15 minutes between coats. It builds great and you have lots of material to get a very straight panel and bury scratches.
Epoxy is non sandable. It’s pretty much a sealer. Especially in painted surfaces, it eliminated blistering and bleed through. Body filler goes on metal, it’s literally designed to be applied on metal.
I notice there was still some filler applied over bare metal in some spots. It seems almost impossible to do filler work on a whole car without eventually having some filler over bare metal. If the epoxy goes over everything again, before polyester primer, that is the same thing in my opinion, because the epoxy will seal everything underneath, so it doesn't matter if you have some filler over bare metal. It is very hard to find a definitive answer to the question of filler over bare steel. It is a matter of preference, as long as epoxy is used at some point before the polyester and urethane primers. It seems highly unlikely that moisture could be trapped or buried in the filler, unless it was applied in a very humid environment and the epoxy was applied to soon after the filler work.
