I’ve found that rolling the polycrylic in sections then using a foam brush covered with the nylon bootie LIGHTLY BRUSH in one continuous stroke over the rolled section. This will eliminate bubbles. Working in sections of rolling then brushing (immediately after rolling) insures a smooth coat. My stained table top looks beautiful, bubble free and smooth!
The nylon booties are used in shoe stores or depts to put on your feet when trying on shoes. I bought mine on, of course, Amazon. The bootie I stretched over a sponge brush, cheap ones at craft stores or home improvement stores. Stretch it so the nylon is smooth and the sponge area of the brush retains its shape. ( Not tight, so that the edge of the sponge brush is straight and free of bunching at corners.). The excess nylon of the bootie is pulled to the backside of the sponge. Hold that excess nylon out of the way when brushing lightly over the polyacrylic. Your strokes need to be fluid, running the length of the surface to which you are applying the finish. I’ve found that, if the bubbles appear, simply go back over lightly. Make sure to do an overlapping stroke as you apply to your project, to blend the polyacrylic, so no line demarcations are noticeable.
Hi Melissa I'm enjoying your channel projects! Just wanted to share a tip I learned the hard way years ago. Make sure you check that your tack cloth is oil or wax free when using water base polycrylic. Nasty bubbles may appear in the finish because an oily residue left on the surface from a tack cloth that will react with the water based poly. I never had a problem with a tack cloth and oil based polyurethane before. If tack cloths package doesn't indicate oil free, then I use a very very damp paper towel from water or a light brush to remove the dust between coats when using polycrylic. Bubbles in poly can dive anyone bonkers so I wanted to share that :)
I have been getting bubbles when I would do this because of a sponge or hairs because of the brush. A roller is a great idea! Thank you for everything you do 🙏👍
I have not had good results at all with bristle brushing, foam brushing or rolling, or wiping Polycrylic. It always looks like crap for me. But spraying -- that's where I can get it to look awesome!!! One tip I did learn from someone here on YT is to really stir the polycrylic well -- like 5 to 10 minutes this YT'ber said. Now, I don't do that long, but I do stir for between 1 and 2 minutes first and have great results spraying that mix. For anyone who's interested in the spraying "howto", I typically spray the Polycrylic as is (not thinned) in an HVLP sprayer with a 1.4 mm nozzle @ 30 psi. Flow is about 1.5 turns out from fully closed. Atomization pressure is maybe a 1/4 turn off from fully open. Fan pattern is about 3.5 inches. This produces a very fine mist. I'll overlap about 75% of each pass, and when I'm done, the whole thing dries within 3 to 10 min depending upon how much I lingered with my passes. I'll do usually 3 coats and sand with 600 to 800 grit sandpaper in between (the recommended 220 is way too aggressive). The result is a very smooth and uniform surface after each coat, but especially after that third one.
Melissa, thanks for this. We’ve been struggling over a table that’s top was veneered. Never having done this before, we stripped the veneer off using an iron and wet towel but some chipping occurred in the process to the layer of wood under the veneer. I sanded and then painted with chalk paint but bubbles occurred on the paint where the chips were. So I sanded again, repainted etc about ther times and then my wife didn’t like the color. So started over but now at the final stages of poly and after two or three coats and looking better we still can see roller marks or uneven application. I wish we had seen this video a few weeks ago, it probably would have eliminated a couple of coats. Do you wax when finished?
I was not sure I understood correctly if when rolling out bubbles do I need a clean foam roller again? Are this rollers in ur opinion the best to use or is a brush or a soft no foam roller just as good?I was planning on using a brush but after watching you I am thinking I should use a foam roller instead.if I choose to use foam would it still with with a brush in difficult areas to get to with a roller? Thanks for any suggestion
I'm pretty sure using a roller like that is going to introduce an insane amount of bubbles into your finish. Having bubbles enter your finish is what you need to avoid the most when you're varnishing. I guess if you don't care about the quality of the finish that you're making then it doesn't really matter, but if you do, I definitely would not do it this way.
Hi-. I saw you do a video on using epoxy for a kitchen countertop... And, why that didn't work so well. But- on the epoxy, you used heat to get rid of epoxy bubbles. I wonder if heat would get rid of poly bubbles?? -hmmm
Hi. Do you re-use the same foam roller after it dries? Or change the foam roller for each polyurethane coat? Thank you. Also, I've heard some recommend to use craft paper to very lightly sand/polish the final coat. I will have to experiment with that.
Minnesotan here who’s watched soooo many of your videos, I now feel like we are friends😂 my polycrylic (on 2nd coat) is looking super patchy, following your awesome instructions... will this clear up? Ideas on why or how to fix? Of course my 1st project is an 84”x42” table so perhaps I need a different application process due to fast dry time? Ugh, so worried all the sanding/shellack prime/sanding/chalk painting will be for naught 🤞🏻We love your channel🙌you are what this world needs more of!
I have a love hate relationship with polycrylic. I love that it cleans up easy and tends to hold its opacity quite well. I hate that it is prone to bubbles. But from my experience there are several ways to get the best results. First use a very soft synthetic highest quality brush. It is a suspension so stirring is necessary but you need to be so gentle as to barely see it moving or bubble on the way. Next apply to brush minimally do not load the brush. Use indirect lighting to see the surface and coverage. Brush it on as perpendicular to the surface and with no hand pressure. You don’t want to drag it along the surface like paint. It should feel like you are barely holding the brush. Lastly any small bubbles can be removed with a safety pin tip. Last tip clean your brushes with Murphy’s oil soap. Happy finishing
I really dislike tact cloth!! it's sticky residue gets in the way of my life. sticks to my hands and leaves marks all over especially on chalk paint. I've had to resend too many times and ive learned my lesson that stuff isn't my friend.. 😊 I'm learning about poly, what I've learned is that adding a touch of the paint color you used to the poly and mix well the final finish is much better especially on dark color paints the poly leaves a haze after a couple coats. and also water based poly dries so fast it barely has time to level when using a roller method. but im with you I believe this method works great in certain environments. I don't think this would be an option in the hot dry states as it just dries too fast.
You are such a cutie, I love your sweet personality, energy and work ethic. Here's some tips: Use the roller to apply your product to a surface (poly, paint etc), then 'back-brush' with a high-quality brush to smooth and pick up drips, especially around spindles, corners and sides. I literally have a detail roller (foam or hair) in one hand and my brush in the other when I start out doing this type of application. I'd allow a longer dry time to assure the corners are cured before sanding - 24 hrs with a urethane and 3-6 hrs with an acrylic, in most cases. And with finish trim like a handrail, I would recommend using a sanding sponge for a more even and detail surface prep. You'll have much better control and feel for the pressure and area you are sanding when using a sponge - that's the thin, pliable-type sponge with foam on one side for your fingers to grip and the abrasive on the other side, not the sanding 'block' when doing detail trim and contours. Plus, the sponge will protect your pretty hands better. Be careful that your 'tack cloth' isn't loaded with too much beeswax or even sap, and leaves a residue. I've gone to a lightly damp wiping cloth or microfiber for most of my acrylic (water-based) dust/clean prep, and using compressed air for the initial blow-off of dust. If painting with oils or lacquer, I'll use denatured alcohol or thinner as a cleaning wipe, too. Best of luck!
Is this product only for painted wood?? I've just finished painting my bathroom ceramic tiles with a satin finish paint; white for the walls and black for the floor.. I'm looking for a protective, clear sealant for the floor at least, not overly fussed about the walls..
I know this is 3 years too late but if it helps someone, well, it'll be worth it ! Humidity play's a huge factor in you getting a nice finish or not... Always read the label for temperature and humidity levels acceptable. Ghosting, or white streaks can appear in your finish, also bubbling and cracking can occur. I've built many guitars using both Polyies and Lacquer finishes, and have learned to listen to the manufactures advice when applying. I could of saved a lot of time and $$$$
Great video! Question: if you have just stained a piece in the past 24 hours, do you still need to sand it before the first coat of Polycrylic? I understand that subsequent coats require sanding. Thanks!
So… I have a painted project I thought I needed to use polyurethane Because the paint is like an oil based furniture paint.. now it sounds like I should use poly acrylic? Can someone please help me with this…? I don’t want a weird color on it after the poly dries
Thanks for the explanation, I sprayed polyurethane on a counter top… but this oil base material is better rolled on. I should have used lacquer if I was to use a pump. Anyway preciate you now I’ll just sand and roll the 3rd coat and call it done.
Thanks for the info, Mel. My staining turned out great, but I was panicking at the top coat phase of my little project. Your video came in clutch. Also, I'm curious, what was that grunt at the 6:16 mark?
Are you using a water based polycrylic? And can I use a foam roller for that ? I’ve heard you shouldn’t but you can if it’s oil based? Please let me know haha.
Enjoy your videos, thanks. Please give tips on the easiest way to get inbetween those slats like on a rocking chair and in all the seams without getting those drips and runs.. would a rag application be best in the situation's?
