I love this guy. Super smart. Dust is ENEMY. Buy good brush. And don't try fix tacky spots, better light sand, clean do final coat again. Don't fixate on few spots. No one will see. Tempature impt.👍
Sooo true!!! I do vinyl flooring, not the hardest thing in the world to do but I’ve done it a long time and I make it look easy. Every single helper I’ve ever had at about the 1 or 2 week mark tells me they are going to put in a floor for a relative or friend. They come back the next day and tell me they effed it all up and could I come and look at it 🤦🏻♂️ 🤣. I should say that I start my helpers off slow so at the 1 or 2 week mark they haven’t done a lot with the vinyl itself yet. I mostly am just having them do floor prep and underlayment.
Thanks dad 😊 I'm refinishing our dining table and the first coat was a bit hard for me to figure out, but you make it look easy! I feel more confident for the second coat 👍
I have never applied poly before, I refinished my grandmothers oak coffee table. This video was so instrumental in making that table look amazing, thank you very much for taking the time to show your process. Be blessed.
Thank you so much for dropping me a note. I would’ve gotten back to you sooner but fortunately busy. Do you thing else please contact me. Take care for now.. God bless too
This video was so incredibly helpful! I was beyond frustrated earlier today, messing up a varnish. Then I watched this and gave it another shot. Thank you, brother!
By far the best video I have ever seen. Explained everything thoroughly and simply. I just got into refinishing wood. Thank you very much for this video.
Oh My Gosh!!! Thank you!!!. I am refinishing cabinets my Dad made. A friends advice did not work. So frustrated I hung 4 bad doors and was doing 2nd coat of 4 more doors. Watched this video, they turned out perfect!!! Now I’m going to take down the first 4 and fix them.
Good job Dane! It’s not easy to get this technique right with a brush. I’m sitting at my table now that you see in my video and whatever year that was because I’m not sure my table is in perfect condition. I probably wait a few years and I’ll do one more coat after a thorough sanding just because I like it to look great. Keep up the good work
Excellent demo, John! Looks like speed and an even, light coat are key, so it doesn't skin over before you do that single, long feathering pass. Good tip about straining the poly first, I haven't tried that and I'm sure it helps cut down on surprise specks. LOL- "... every 2, 3, 4 years, depending on how many kids you have!" So true! Thanks!
I wanted to take a moment to thank you for this video. I use your technique and my work always turns out beautifully. So much so that I send people to this video when discussing how to apply polyurethane. Many thanks.
Great video! Thank you! Will be applying my first poly coat tomorrow on my custom desk. I saw you had 999 subscribers. Wanted to even that out. I subscribed!
After finer and finer sanding, I like to apply a 50/50 mix of poly with appropriate thinner for the first coat. That way, the poly has a chance to soak into the wood, giving you a good grip. Sand more, and apply appropriate number of layers per application of wood furniture. Like glass, and lasts longer.
I never have been able to achieve the second sweep-over with the brush due to the quick-drying nature of the product, esp if it’s water based. It leaves awful brush lines and clumps. I’ve lately thinned it down, allowing the blending to go on much more smoothly. It did require multiple coats tho, but worth it.
I agree with Mary... I have been watching so many videos and they are all the trendy stuff.. I am more traditional .. and I love staining.. thank you .. I am going to watch more of your videos.
Hi Melissa, some of the pros don’t like this approach but I’m sitting at the table now and it is smooth as can be I’m not sure what year I did it but I have many years left before I have to do it again. Thanks for your kindness and I hope you have a great holiday
It's a super important step that most gloss right over (pun intended). But there isn't much too it. Some finishes are different so read when to sand it but really it's light sanding and a super high grit to smooth out the top while adding small scratches that the next layer can fill giving it grip to the layer beneath. That's the idea, don't overthink it and try to keep it fine so it doesn't become all milky, and don't over do it. Practice on a scrap peice and see what works/ doesn't work. Have fun with it. That really is the best way, even if you are doing it once, because the 1 other time in your life you will need to remember how this is done, you will show off like a super genius. Good luck
@Mark Nelson I have found it to be important. It has a HUGE basis in reality. There is science behind it. The way some polymers dry doesn't give a smooth surface, and small imperfections would only be later noticed by reflections of light. Also, if you are doing multiple layers, the sanding helps to add grooves to the surface. This increases the surface area in which the next layer will bind too. Our technology is getting better, but in the mean time, sanding works really well for taking care of the surface and ensuring good adhesion while providing the best surface possible.
Dragoro I am getting a wavy appearance in a certain light. It looks great and feels smooth but at a certain angle it looks like it dried unevenly. Any idea on this?
@@dragoro3033 yes thank you. I need this. I did a black stain and after the light sanding it looks all worn and scratched up. Letting the second coat dry now and hoping I don't have to strip and start over.
Purchased one of these for myself at a local big box store and love it. Very flexible to use and very easy to fold up and store. Liked it so much I purchased two more for my sons on Amazon and had them delivered as Father's Day gifts. They have both used them and given them 2 thumbs up also.
Great video . Thanks for explaining the process. The only thing is I have lots of really small bubbles that are kinda only visible depending on the angle you're looking at it. . Why would that be?
Hey Fernando it’s never too late if it’s only one coat. You some 220 grit sandpaper send it out a bit tack cloth it off. Make sure it’s very clean and apply your material with a grain of the wood. Therefore you may get a better effect. Hope that can help
Looks really good! I do have a question though. I'm doing a dining room table that I built and noticed some blotching (used Varathane poly.) They told me I most likely overbrushed my final coat and to use 220 to remove the coat and reapply. I did that and went with lighter strokes and moved pretty slow. As it's drying, I'm still seeing the same issue where it looks dull in some areas while it dries. Is that normal or am I just going too slow? My coatings prior to my 5th and final coat looked fine where I didn't see those spots.
Great video, so after this application do you have to do another one and if I heard you correctly you would sand this one down with a 320 grid?? Do you have to sanded again? I’m doing tables and I need to make the least mistakes as possible
Great work , what did I do wrong ? I had a friend no l9nger with us give me a redwood burl table 30 ty years ao , form all the butchers wax he suggest I use , I found it built up and lost that glow . I used water base recommended urethane , and prep't the top with a random orbital sander thats as tech as I get , I think I over did the original sanding going thru 60 grit to 1000 grit , the top looked great and I applied the first coat outdoors in 75 to 80 degree weather kind of in half shade to prevent it from drying too fast . I used a foam brush ( I think my second mistake ) and worked pretty much like you did , no real grain to follow on redwood burl , the end result was some stroke marks or streaks , but I though that would be gone after sanding it for second coat .For that I used 600 grit and then 800 grit lightly -cleaned etc .,applied the second coat , again ,streaks like a brush would leave . My friend is gone now and I would like to preserve my memory of him ( now all I vision is him laughing at me :) what did I do wrong? or how could I do it as well as you ? being an artist myself my budget went into the urethane its water base. /quart , and I was lucky to have had an old random radial disc sander . I now have it back to bare wood and writing to everyone who looks like they known what they're doing . 4 kids , you mean refinish very year don't you ? :) thx any info. woud be appreciated - billy
@@thevintagekitty Minwax removed their products from Home Depot and gave Lowes the distribution. I was tempted to try Varathane- glad I didn't! Thank you for posting! :-D
Hello, thanks for the great video. I am unclear on what you mean by the strainer. I understand that you need to start with a clean bucket but does the polyurethane need to be strained before using it? Could you please explain that process?
Did you add mineral spirits to the oil poly? I can’t ever get the oil poly to work with me lie that. I get one or 2 passes at the most before it starts lifting and drying.
When you are working with a cherry wood stain and a polyurethane finish , what kind of back ground music goes with that beautiful finish? Do you think classical , or light classic rock n roll , Metallica is more for those dark grey and black jobs , I myself think Pink Floyd might do the trick what’s yours ?
I'm currently putting miniwax oil poly on my butcher block countertops (I've already applied wood conditioner and stained), and I noticed that some parts are uneven after applying my first coat of oil poly. I applied it with a foam brush. If I need to start over, can I just sand it down to the wood? If so, what grit sandpaper do I use? 120, 180 then 220? Should I use a hand sander? Thanks.
