Your video was very helpful! Hopefully, this comment of my experience can help someone too! i Spent the day today assembling my swamp runner large kit with my 22hp predator motor on my boat, and your video walked me through pretty much step by step through the whole process. i did run into some problems that you didn't experience. (1) the coupler shaft seemed to not slide all the way flush with part of the output shaft, and so the coupler housing didn't fit flush either. i kind of tried different things to figure out if it should be flush before bolting the coupler housing to the engine, and was unsuccessful until i just bolted the coupler housing to the shaft without it being flush, and when tightening the bolts, the housing eventually became flush. It just wasn't really clear in your video if it should have been flush to the rear of the engine before bolting the coupler housing. (2) feeding the kill switch and ground wires through the tiller handle was a HUGE pain! The tiller handle has 2 relatively sharp bends in it near the engine so it was very difficult to get those flimsy wires through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle. To fix this, i drilled (with a bit larger than the size of the original hole) into one of the holes near the handle part of the tiller handle where the wires and throttle cable go into the tiller handle pipe. That made it easier for me to feed my snake into the pipe and tape my wires onto the snake and push it through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle pipe. (3) Removing and adjusting the throttle cable was very difficult. On my 22 hp predator motor, the phillips screw that holds the end of the throttle cable to the engine throttle body is in a tight spot. The head of the phillips screw faces toward the back of the boat and it is less than an inch away from the exhaust. This bade it impossible to get any normal screw driver in there to loosen and tighten the screw. To fix this, i got a pair of vice grips and clamped them perpendicularly onto a phillips head (removable attachment phillips head that is used for screw drivers that you can change the heads on) and got it onto the head of the screw and i was then able to loosen the screw and adjust the throttle cable on the throttle body. (4) [this isn't really a problem, but i think this was just a simpler way of doing it] So at about the 15-16 minute mark, when you wire up the kill switch, (instead of doing it the way you did and using another wire and using more connectors) i just spliced my kill switch wire straight into the oil wire and eliminated make that "Y" with the kill switch wire and splicing it with the oil wire. Your way was great and i think it looks good, but it just seemed like an unnecessary step (just my opinion) But besides these 4 things, it all came together pretty well and with ease. Honestly without this video, assembling this would have been very difficult and way more time consuming. i will be uploading my video of my build and installation of everything, if you want to check that out. I will reply to this comment when i upload it with the link to that video. OVERALL, thanks for making this video and i hope this comment can help out anyone who runs into similar issues and experiences.
Absolutely awesome step-by-step video! EVERY how to video should be this well developed, no matter what its detailing!! Very professionally done. Good hunting this winter my friend.
Well done video. Clear and to the point. No additional music, very clear camera shots, and although I am mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you did explain the simpler things. (Lining up the throttle cable grooves for the handle. ) hats off to a great video.
I want to thank you for doing such a great video .....the kit I got came without instructions and I just easily followed along with your video and got it done....thank you!!
Thx bro your video helped the install go very smooth. I just bought a large kit and it was pretty simple for an average joe like myself. Great video, very detailed, keep it going
Great video! I like that I can hear you loud and clear, you have good tips and trick. It was quick, but you did rush through the important steps. I like that you walk us through the project as you would talk to a friend and a two year old. I liked the project itself. Thanks for sharing.
You got me! I'm hooked, what a wonderful and clear presentation! Thank you for sharing, God bless you and your subscribers with good health and good fishing for 2020!
My neighbor's teenage son purchased one of these. He was able to assemble it on his own. The simplicity makes them durable & the maneuverability is really impressive. I'm not trying to say this is a bad product, because it's not. It's really a good product. I'm also not trying to dissuade anyone from purchasing this product. There's a serious flaw in this design though. I wouldn't recognize it if I hadn't made the same mistake myself. The "spline adapter nut" should be secured in a way that locks the threads. Something more substantial than nylock is needed to do the job. The consequences of not doing so are that the first time the engine backfires, that nut WILL unscrew. Any seals or bearings between there and the end of the prop shaft are toast. You're also going to have a whole lot more play in the end of the prop shaft than you want, assuming it doesn't blow the prop shaft out of the end of the housing. I've had the combination of twisting and pushing between two fixed points of a 170cc predator engine break a 3/4" grade 8 bolt... This type of engine is most likely to backfire when trying to start it while warmed up and with resistance. Something like weeds & debris on the prop, or a partially engaged engine brake. I never did find a way to solve the problem with my mud motor in this configuration, so I can tell you for certain what won't work: Welds, shear pins, locktite or carrier bearings/pillow blocks. What might bypass this flaw is reworking the spline adapter nut and the shaft it screws on to. Grind the threads off the shaft, and make flat spots on opposing sides of the shaft. Make the hole in the spline adapter nut match. Once the threads are gone, a circlip should be sufficient to secure it in place.
Thanks for the video! I’m getting one of these kits. It will be superior to the 9.9 outboard on my Jon boat: I’ll be able to go in much shallower water!
I would only add that I usually run a sqaush plate between my boat transom and the mount screws. I use either a 1/4" Aluminum plate or have used a 1/2" pine board as simple as a cutoff piece. The pine board is actually not bad. It is just soft enought to make the screws bite in and lock it in place into the wood. That causes it to not drift around at all. Anything to avoid a indention of a circle into your hull.
A great add on to this kit is an electric clutch on the pto. They come in every size and hp rating u could imagine. Not only simple way to add a neutral "gear" to these simple designs but also provides for some slip when u inevitably jam the prop on that cypress knee that grew 3 inches since last year. Also works nearly instantly (prop and mass of shaft will give it a few spins even when disconnected) so when u feel that log kiss the bow u can hit the button and have the prop and shaft fully disconnected from power. Also i suppose u could wire it up so that u have to hold a button to keep it in gear and have it drop out when released, def b safer for kids and people new to the boats
Fantastic Video Wiring Was A little Intimidating But Overall This Will Be My Go To Video ! I Want To Buy The Kit And The Predator 6.5 Motor. Wish The 8Hp Would Fit The $499 Kit Can’t Find A Predator 7Hp Thanks Again For A Great Learning Video
Great video. If your tightening the shaft wing nuts with a tool why not use bolts/nuts? Bolts/nuts would be much cleaner install. I guess why do they use giant wing bolts there anyways?
Great video!!!!! Been curious about doing this cause I wasn't sure how good it would work on the rivers in northwest Florida but if I do you helped me tremendously.
Is keeping the oil sensor connected the same as you going to make my engine cut off if the oil shakes around while I’m riding? I’ve heard of people having to keep theirs disconnected
OS Outdoors Here’s a video about replacing that bushing. Let me know if that’s what you’re talking about ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2aqekedYadA.html
You don't need a clutch, but you won't be able to cut the power to the prop without stopping the engine. It's not a big deal. You learn how to navigate with it.
Locate the wires for your engines On/Off switch and tie into that. You'll want to wire it so that if the kill switch is pulled, it opens the circuit like if you simply switched the engine to "off". Does that make sense?
Medium kit would probably be best, but I had a 22hp (with a large kit) on a 14 footer and it was very fast. The only problem I had was my transom flexing when i would gun it. If your transom can handle it, then put on a 22hp large kit
I normally torque things quarter turn past snug with no problems. I was changing the water on my truck, decided to use a torque wrench, broke a bolt. I kept thinking it felt too tight, SNAP. Not sure if it was a faulty wrench or I set it wrong.(probably set it wrong) Now I’m back to quarter turn past snug. Lol
Just bought a kit second hand.. thinking about taking everything apart and evaluating parts to see what needs to be replaced. Kit is only about 2 years old
You show stuffing grease in that tube and then sliding it over that shaft and attaching to the motor. Then later you show putting thread lock on the coupling and reattaching to the shaft. Am I missing something, the threads on the shaft are going to have grease on them. Is the locktite on a greased thread actually doing anything.
I’m kinda wondering why you didn’t trim your throttle cable and kill switch cables ? It don’t matter but just asking ! Will that kit hold bigger 4 stroke motors ?
No particular reason, I just didn't feel like doing it. The kit will hold much bigger motors, but you'll need to get the large size kit for it to work.
