Nice! It's a little hard to tell since there is a lot of protection over the elastic but it's a little over 1/4in. I found the standard Katana bungee to be a bit stiff and didn't stretch out as much as I wanted so I went for 1/4in and it works great!
Great question, this was all done with Al 80's in mind that will get neutral -> positively buoyant by the end of the dive. For steels you would simply move the bottom bolt snap around and generally make the cord holding it on a little longer so it always sits in the same spot. Not all steel tanks are the same, but in general that is what you will do. I can make a video on the difference if that is something you would like to see!
There are a few ways of trying to make it work. What you could try is taking the loop of bungee and instead of taking the whole thing around the valve and hooking it on the post, you could open up the loop and go over the whole valve and reg. It won't be as easy if you are trying to remove your tanks and it won't stop it from spinning as much but it will work.
Short posts are tough. I found going around the valve handle like it was a post worked best when dealing with left hand only valves. It’s not ideal and you have to rig your first stages a tad differently. However, I was able to go through my certification and make quite a few dives this way. The valve handle was accessible for shutting off if need and hose routing was the same. This will expose your first stage as it will be outside and away from your body if your diving with them on the inside.
Thanks for your videos. Going into sidemount class last year your videos were a fantastic reference. Since certification I’ve used your videos to help me dial in my setup. Some other channels have incomplete info or are basic it’s hard to get good bits of info. Huge thank you!
Thank you so much for that! I'm really happy to hear that it has helped you. I'm hoping to keep it up and make high quality content for divers like you!
