Nice work, only thing I’d do differently is instead of lifting the pin of the IC I’d just keep the transistor connected to the original base connection and wire up the emitter and collector pins as such
To get rid of the vertical bars, use Polymer capacitor on pin 21 and ground. I had one 270uf that did the trick. On the CPU pin 40 and the ground i put one regular 47uf cap. Or you can put MLCC 1-2.2uf ceramic capacitors
couldnt you have left the transistor in place? it was already connected to that one pin and you would only have needed to add the other two cables. that way you would still have the option to also run the other video mode.
Thanks for the video! I used a video board from Cathouse games which made the mod a bit easier but it also gave me stereo sound. And I added an LED for fun! Thanks again! Great video!
i was born same year as the famicom came out, it was my first console my dad taught me how to play it age 4 years old, i enjoyed the hell out of it popeye oh man i feel old, 30 years later teaching my son retro gaming i guess he likes kirby alot on the gba and wii ,funny his favorite color is pink coz of kirby... lol
was stoked to see a great tutorial. So orderd a Famicom so i could follow your tutorial. Famicom turns up and its an 002 model and completely different. sad times
one thing i like to do with this mod is cut the traces going to the pad that the transistor was originally soldered to, and put a 3 pin fan connector(like one on a pc motherboard). then i like to solder ground, video and audio to a female connector so you can take apart your famicom without desoldering. it just works better honestly.
hey mate from aus to ironically was looking to mod one of these as my grandad owned one.Excellent video and you solved the power pack issue for me (i heard megadrive 2 ones work).I have only ever modded a master system 2 to av but will definitely do this thanks to your video!.On a side note i love my r31s something about the torque of a rb30 :)
Hey Tom, thanks for watching. Well yes a MD2 power pack will kinda work as it's the right voltage, but it's not the correct barrel tip on the end. You just need a Master System one as that's exactly the same as this Famicom and will just plug in. R31s hey! A mate of mine had a 2 door GTS-R R31 which had a factory RB20DET. Nice machine. I prefer the newer R32 shape myself. Long live Godzilla
much better if you use a foam tape. to cover the solder. it wont get sticky after a year or so. nice job by the. do you just by all does caps and resistor on a hardware?
Nicely done. Very informative. Thanks for posting. Also I never knew Zelda had voice commands now I'm wondering if hooking one of these controllers with microphone into an NES via adapter would allow it to work on the U.S. release of Zelda.
to almost completely remove jailbars i did the following. wrap the PPU in grounded copper tape. 220uf capacitor positive pin 22 ppu and negative on pin 20. 100 PF capacitor between pin 40 on PPU and ground. 100 PF cap between pin 1 on CPU and ground.
i put the 100pf cap on the ppu and the 220uf cap and i got rid of all jailbars. i didnt need to wrap the ppu or put the 100 pf cap on the cpu. thanks for the comment though. it helped me get rid of jailbars. i also broke my original transistor, and i replaced it with a 2n3906 according to this schematic. assemblergames.com/attachments/kyuusaku_zps6a57f5ab-gif.10058/ im not sure if it improved the image, as i never saw it working with the original transistor, but someone on a forum said it will improve the video.
Thanks for the guide! Modded my Famicom Today, i obtain some jailbars but the av mod works perfect! What can i do to clear all the jailbars? The motherboard is HVC-CPU-05
hello Global Garage! First , this vidéo is the most complet ( i'm french ! And there is not a lot of vidéo like that in french!) explain are exelent. but i think the RGB in place of the "RF switch" would be better aesthetically and more pratical for RGB wiring???
What's the difference between the AV Mod at the side of the console like this one in the video and the AV Mods at the back? Most Famicom AV Mods seem to be at the back.
Can I have a little help here, I moded my Famicom according your guide a while ago, initially everything was perfect but now I got no sound from it, what could cause this problem?
@@ClbnaVGM eventually i was some kind of bad connection between my cartridge and the socket, i found out when i wiggled a little the cartridge, then i cleaned the slot and my cartridge pins with wd40 on a brush and that solved my problem
Lifting pin 21 of the PPU reduces the interference in the video. It's very common to see vertical bars in the video called "jail bars". There are further ways to reduce this which im planning on trying. I'll make a part 2 of this video and test it out
finally got around to doing mine. At first it didnt work so i tried cleaning the slot and after a few reinserts and got a image with vertical lines of missing pixels. Gave the cart a wiggle and it glitched out so i drag soldered the pin connector and hoped for the best which fixed it(ill do a proper job later) and man this one has a bad case of jail bars! do you have and tricks for jail bars for av moded famicoms? I just ordered some copper tape to have a go at insulating the ppu but thats the only method i can find
+dylbob9000 Yep the copper tape is the only method im aware of as well. Make sure you lift the pin like I do in the video, but that's all I had to do. Mine showed some jailbars but not too bad.
You can connect the power LED to any 5V source on the board. Just use a 100ohm resistor on the positive leg and solder it to the board. Even directly to the output pin of the LM7805 would be fine with some wire and the resistor. Ground can be connected to any ground point that's convenient.
Hey, I did this mod about 2 months ago and I think I might have damaged my PPU by overheating it. I tried to solder my wires to the pins, but they wouldn't stick, even though I scratched the pins and put some flux onto it. When I finally got the job done the mod worked perfectly, but when I tried to fit the board back in the shell, the wires broke off, so I had to resolder them onto the PPU again. After I the wires were in place again, I tested the console again and I got a totally garbled image. The sound was nice and clear though. I tried multiple things: I soldered in different kinds of cables, I used different composite cables, tested the console on multiple TVs, and I replaced the transistor. So I figured, I probably damaged the PPU. I bought another Famicom, and did the job on that one and that one is working fine now, so I can play my games now in Europe. But after all the trouble I went through for my first console, I'd still like to repair it, if possible. Do you happen to know how to fix a dead PPU, or where to get a replacement part for it? (The Famicom AV-mod was the first one I've ever attempted; I usually stick to Gameboy repairs, that's what I know best, but I couldn't run my Famicom in Europe, so I was kind of forced to get into modding. I kind of like doing it, so I'm actually looking forward to doing more mods in the future!)
I don't think you can repair the PPU iteself, but I could be wrong. I'm glad you got the other console working. I would suggest you buy another cheap Famicom from Japan that's yellowed and has a poor shell, then take the board from it as parts?
First of all, thank you for your reply. I see, I might get another Famicom someday, but I am currently working on a 50/60hz mod on a Genesis clone and a Super Famicom repair. I was just thinking; Wouldn't it be better to use a heat gun instead of a soldering iron, when soldering to chips? I think the odds are way smaller of burning your PPU/CPU/RAM when using a heat gun. I don't wanna burn another PPU when swapping parts around.
you know, if you're removing that transistor, why bother desoldering pin 21 of the PPU? Why not just use the transistor hole that goes to pin 21? Common sense?
the reason for lifting the pin is because the trace from pin 25 runs parallel to the trace for pin 21, and because of capacative coupling, you get a load of video noise.
Ha! I was just watching and was about to comment like "Dear God! Get a cheap deoldering station like the Duratech TS 1513" It feels like cheating in a good way, life is too short for wicks on pins.
+dylbob9000 haha yep absolutely! I try to keep it simple with basic tools for the viewers, but in the background I use the cheap but GOOD Duratech TS 1513. It's been an excellent purchase. I might upgrade to a Hakko one day but I don't see the need at the moment.
Thanks. The mod worked out well. I crushed my finger in an old sliding window that I tried to unjam! Ouch. It's all healed now, you wouldn't even know.
