How to Avoid a Pulley Sprain with Climbing Technique 

This is a video from the Rock Rehab Pyramids to help you reduce the change of a rotator cuff strain while climbing.
Dynamic moves to and from small edges, pulling too much with your fingers on small holds and the repetitive use of full or closed crimps, can all increase the stress on the pulley. Try to perform large moves from small edges more statically and push with your feet instead of pulling with your fingers. To avoid injury, use an open-hand grip over a crimp. However, this is not a rule. The nature of the hold will determine the safest grip. If a crimp is needed, then utilize first a half crimp, then a closed crimp and finally as a last resort a full crimp. A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. The force generated with the closed crimp is 17% more than the full crimp. The closed-crimp grip does so without increasing strain to the middle and ring fingers, which are the most susceptible to pulley injuries, although it does increase strain on the index finger.
The "Rock Rehab Pyramid" is a system developed to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injury. The goal of the four-phase system is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.
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