Understanding that the shutterspeed does not affect exposure with flash (because flash speed the same) is a really vital bit of information I didn't know..many thanks
Follow these steps and you’ll love flash photography: 1-Don’t try to adjust many settings in the same time. 2- Understand the basics of the triangle exposure (Aperture, shutter speed and ISO) within M mode (Manual mode). 3- When dealing with flash and additional light sources, start by adjusting the ambient light through the “basics of triangle exposure” in your camera AND THEN deal with external lights settings. My recommendation: In my opinion, it is mandatory to understand the triangle of exposure in order to move into flash photography. You can easily understand it by shooting so many scenarios in different ways so you can understand how your settings would influence key elements like dept of field, subject freezing and low light shootings. Good luck in the field!
Great info. Thanks. I just wonder why some photographers say when shooting with flash in a studio that everything has to be dark. Totally dark and then it’s only the flash that will light up the face for the portrait but that’s maybe wrong?
Fug Manual mode unless in studio for portraits and product table-top. You paid alot for all of that light measuring computer power in your camera; use it.
Thank you, thank you! Greatly appreciated! Showing how Shutter Speed, Aperture and flash power affects the image was so very helpful. Doing that presentation helped me gain a better understanding the effects of using light to achieve the desired affects. Visual is how I learn and this was a very helpful video. Go out and practice!
David, you are very good at presenting information. I.think part of it is that you put your personality into it. I personally appreciate your cadence and pace. For those that wish to accelerate your delivery I would suggest reading it , along with keeping in mind that it was a “No Cost” primer. Keep up the enthusiastic presentations. Thanks , Tom
Great way to explain how to balance the flash with the available light on the subject to get the affect one wants for that subject. Adjusting to the light on the subject at the time of day and weather. Would like you to cover the TTL subject somewhere down the line David
When David says 'you can't put strobes through the whole city... it would be REALLY cool if you could....' the look in his eyes tells me he's imagining what it might look like :)
My workflow consists of; choosing a low ISO for quality 100-800 (Canon 6D) I then decide on the aperture I want to use, anything from wide open up to F8 depending on the lens, I then meter past the subject onto the background and I set that to how bright or how dark i want using shutter speed (assuming its on HSS) take a test shot to check, its then a matter of controlling the amount of flash hitting the subject, this can be done in two different ways; A Adjust the flash power B Regulate the distance from the subject to flash (physically moving the stand to the required distance to produce the desired effect) a combination of both will get you where you eventually need to be for the exposure you require.
How about using an umbrella to block the sun on the subject then relight the subject with a flash attached to the modifier? The direction and intensity of the ambient and artificial light will be in correct balanced.
Yup that works if you’re lucky enough to have the sunlight coming in at the same angle you wish you light your subject. Otherwise, you’ll need something to block the sun separate from your modifier.
Hello David, thank you for another very good explanation and the demo, seeing is very helpful to me ! Always looking forward to your segments . It took me a while perusing various videos and sites from other equally good contributors to finally get it clear in my head . Not using it very often (I’m an enthusiast of sort:) ) it was a good refresher. Similarly what always confuses me and what my question relates to , is , how and where do you get a meter reading of the background with the subject I front of you without automatically remeasure as you take the shot? Do you do a meter and recompose somehow ? I usually use back button focusing for portrait and similar more static shots, so I assume the metering starts when I push the release and my focus can be done after (or before) . Using a Canon 6d mark ii . Hoping you have some prior content with a good explain or a short answer here . Thank you again for all the great content your producing . G.
Thanks! And for your question, if your exposure setting is on manual, just guess to start then adjust as necessary. For a portrait outside, you’d probably want a low ISO and wide aperture. Lock those in and guess your shutter speed. Shoot a test frame and look at it. If it’s too bright, speed up your shutter. Too dark? Slow it down. When it looks right, you’ve got all three settings and you can just shoot away. Hope that helps.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto Thank you David. So no need to consider metering mode or what to meter on ? I usually use single point for portraits to be able to meter off the face / skin. Metering there some times get the back way too dark or way to bright depending on time of day and where the light is coming from. So are you suggesting to still meter on say face and but in essence just ignore and go with what ends up looking right ? That is in manual, and in AV fiddle with the exposure compensation to arrive at the same “what looks right “ ? I had figured maybe meter the background some how lock it and then light the subject with the flash ? This is what’s tripping me up and confusing me.
Such a helpful video! I would love to know how to balance ambient and flash light for an indoor photoshoot showing both interior and persons (for a commercial photoshoot for a kids furniture company)? The house has a lot of bright windows.
Thanks! Indoors is exactly the same. Get your ambient (room) exposure set first. You might need to push your ISO up to have a good exposure. Try to keep some ambient off your foreground and then add in flash to taste.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto Thank you. Can I ask what you mean when you say "Try to keep some ambient off your foreground"? How would you prioritise your settings for a scene like explained below:
Excellent lesson David. Here is my question. For 18 months now I use the GH5. I love it but do plan on getting a Canon full frame down the road, but for now it's all about my GH5. I am studying and getting into Flash Photography and about to buy a strobe. After watching this video I'm not sure what to get. I was going to get a Godox TT685O for Panasonic. They do make a manual one in the same model. What should I get? The one for Panasonic or a manual one? Would getting the manual version be good with the GH5 and then I can use it with future cameras? I expect I'll be with my GH5 until I become a proficient/ better photographer, maybe in another year I'll consider something bigger. Please advise if you would be willing to help with this. Are the pros to having the Panasonic with the TTL good and can I use the manual one with all cameras?
If you can afford the bells and whistles (TTL), I'd get that since it's nice to have the option if/when you need it. But stay on manual when you're learning! :)
i always shoot at HSS.. is there any way to know at what shutter speed it starts working? or it only works at high shutter speeds above 200 i was told??
i have a new metz flash confused perhaps you can help...enjoy your videos.. in ETTL mode if i dial up flash compensation say +1 the flash tells me the distance the flash is good at but the distance it states actually goes down ...I would think it would go up??? more power more distance..? what am I missing? thank you Paul
Flash compensation isn't necessarily the same thing as power. In TTL, you're just telling that flash to meter the scene automatically and put out what it thinks is the correct amount of light for the particular image when you take it. If you go +1, then you're telling it to put out one extra stop of light above what it thinks the "correct" exposure is. I haven't used a Metz in years, so am not sure how that distance scale works. But it's really not relevant to changing the flash exposure compensation in TTL mode because the power can change frame-to-frame based on what the camera is seeing "though the lens" (TTL). If you switch to full manual on the flash, you can set the exact power. Then it should work how you expect, with higher power equalling more distance.
I use flash quite a bit outside for the reasons you cited. I love the control and the results I get. I shoot both manual flash and TTL if I’m running and gunning at an event like a family BBQ or birthday. I practiced on my wife and Clara the head for months, that’s how long it took me to wrap my very old brain around the concepts you discussed in the video, what can I say I’m a slow learner🤓. Anyway I really enjoy your series you put out a lot of very good info and you make it easy to understand. Thank you and thanks to Adorama as well. Stay safe!
one thing i dont understand is, the shutter speed controls ambient light, but the subject is also affected by that ambient light, so the shutter speed does affect how the flash contributes to the exposure. tested myself.
Such a great video. Thank you so much for explaining this. I’m trying to do outdoor photography with my bulldogs Stella and Petey, and this is going to help so much. I used to use ttl, but I can see now that manual is the way to go on the flash for more consistent results.
NICE!! One other idea to keep a flash from overheating: the DISTANCE between the flash and your subject can become closer if needed. Flash power gains a power of two of the distance between subject and flash. Conversely, a ton of flash power dissipates when a flash is too far back. Of course a closer light source could be the cause of harsh light, but with a modifier, this should not be a problem. Regardless, great topic!!
Thank you so much for the bit at the end!! I couldn’t figure out why I was having such a hard time balancing flash with ambient when I wanted a bright background. It’s hard to find tips for when you don’t want a moody image, but ONLY want the ofc for fill. This explains a lot.
great informative! I have an upcoming outdoor birthday party at night. I wonder how to use my on camera flash. may be if you guys can create on camera flash on out door event tutorial will be helpful :) Thanks!
i am afraid of flash. i understand the concept. i have watched many of the wonderful adorama vids (thank you david and daniel!). i just need to experiment more. that is indeed my 2021 photographic challenge. thank you for the effort and the sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber. stay well. thumbs up.
Practice makes perfect. Remember that you don't have to wait for the film to get processed to see your results, because this is the DIGITAL AGE! Ah, the technology will & does spoil us!
Real world experience: For outdoor wedding/family run-n-gun shoots - Min SS 1/250. f/as desired for DoF. Auto ISO. Aperture Mode. Lighting - Profoto B10X and Profoto Connect Pro [trust me, avoid China crap if you are a pro]. I bring assistant to move light stand with strobe - for OCF. Read about The Inverse-Square Law of Light to get a feel for distance to subject and practice. No modifiers. Shoot subject with sunlight NOT on face or just slight wrap. Take a test shot and check in EVF -- adjust if necessary. Continuous autofocus with eye detect. Using SONY a7rv with Tamron 35-150mm. Sweet setup. 95% of shots come out perfect. Have fun!
I did tests over and over and I can't change the back ground light with shutter speed. Going to from 60 to 250 the same ground over and over in my test so something wrong and I'll figure it out. Also I wonder why of the hours and hours of tutorials I've watched no one mentions that you cannot see the changes on your screen in real time. You have to take the picture and then see what adjustments to make... I think. At this point none of this makes sense and I don't understand why you or not one for that matter would fail to mention this about changes not being visible. I'm using a GH5 with constant preview one. Thanks David. Great lesson either way. I know it's me. So all good.
If I'm at full flash power and I raise my shutter speed two stops and then open my lens up two stops, don't I arrive at the same place as before I started adjusting shutter and aperture?
Good info, but way to Quick or Fast, Slow it down, I personally need Step by Step instructions. 1. How to Controlling Ambient Light with my Camera. 2. How to Control the Flash power to get a nice Balanced Portrait. 3. For Outdoor location, best & Easy way to Diffuse the Light and make it Soft.
As for talking speed, you can slow down the RU-vid playback. I have to find a balance since it's a large cross-section of photographers watching. And specific instructions, like which button to press, don't work on RU-vid because everyone is using different types of gear. I do offer one-on-one consultations and can walk your through your exact setup to get the result you want. More info and sign up here: www.askdavidbergman.com/1on1/
Good instruction. Can you add another instruction video on setting white balance with multiple light sources like ambient light and strobe when outdoor? Is this normally done by doing a white balance check
Outdoors is easy because flash is daylight balanced just like, well, daylight. So set your camera on daylight and you should be pretty close. It's trickier with artificial light sources indoors and I recently did a video about using gels to balance them out - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DbZziwciJeY.html
I watched this right after watching Adorama TVs video called "How to Use The Exposure Diamond to Balance Flash and Ambient Light | Mark Wallace" If you're struggling or wanting to understand this better. I strongly suggest you watch both videos! The Diamond thing finally made everything click and this video by David is truly the cherry in on the cake. Thank you!
Really like this video. Thanks David! This information should be in everyone's wheelhouse. And remember folks... to get it down you have to practice. Get that workflow down... be proficient.