So helpful! Thanks for sharing. I want to make a small container to fit a tight space. How do you close the gap after bending all four sides? I can’t tell. Was it welded together?
When i want a crisp more squared off corner i will do the same thing with the c clamps and then used a rubber mallet to bend it against the edge of the bench
I was just told that it is impossible to bend 16 guage stainless steel without a giant industrial box brake bender from a machine shop with giant brakes. Your doing dark arts and black magic! Update: Using this method I was able to bend a 16 guage stainless steel 3" deep pan. I folded the tabs in just like a box. The dimensions were 48" x 30". Used sheet metal vicegrips and 2 copper pipes to assist bending. Welded with cheap Harbor freight Welder. Sanded with 80 grit to 3000 grit for mirror finish. Then clear coated.
I believe anytime you remove material it will become less strong. However, I also feel it depends on the project and whether or not dimenshed strength is an issue. I wouldn't use it structural situations, but simple table of shelf would be fine. Keep in mind, this method is for someone that doesn't have access to anytime of brake machine.
@@orcunbalkan8415 You can try that. I find that when heating stainless in warps inconsistently and not like mild steal that seems to heat in the intended area
Any recommendations for getting a clean bend when you need it so far from the end of the material that you can't use those vise grips and C-clamps only go so far from the sides? I've been using a four pound hammer and forming the sheet to the edge of my workbench (1/2" steel tabletop). Also using 16 gauge and I think it's probably better to cut and weld for this size job. Except you should see my welds...
I'm not sure I'm understanding your question. I've scored the material and bent a 1/2" width with this method. There was no need to bend something wider then cut down to size.
@@ArtfullyRogue I wondered if the vice clamps could get enough leverage on the 16 gauge steel with only 1/2" grab area. Also I thought the clamp itself might impinge on the straight edge to prevent the bend.
If it's a seam that will be seen or is a support then yes, I weld it. When I make trays for my water fountains, they typically get powder coated and don't hold any weight so for those, I don't usually weld.
Thanks so much Doug. Very interesting and informative video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
Very cool. I have a project ATV that needs floorboards. 2pieces of metal, each with 2bends. I'm going to have to try this because I can't afford a machine for 4 short bends. Thanks for posting this 👍👍
Fabulous video! I was just told by my makerspace that they could not help me build molds for my fused glass designs. I am definitely going to try this technique. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much! I am trying to make a new burner pan for my fire feature after cutting out the old rusted pan-your video (plus industrial metal supply) was just what I needed!
Awesome, thank you Doug! Have you ever tried bending 11 GA (0.116") carbon steel or thicker with the vice clamps? Did it require scoring with the angle grinder? Thank you!
Thanks mate, that's excellent. I've got that stuff around so I can start work building my forge. I've been looking at my sheet of 8' x 4' x 1/8" with some trepidation, but the angle grinder should subdue the monster with care. Good 'ealth, John Warner, Australia
Bend it the best that you can using the edge of the bench. Then get in there with a block of wood and a hammer still clamped to the bench. And if you use a little art and finesse, it will look as good or better than the bend from the giant hydraulic brake. Not as fast, but also not 10,000 bucks.
I'm trying too make a small sheet metal fuse relay box for under the hood around 9x5x2" I didn't know how expensive thay are even the cheapest plastic ones. Thanks for the video .
@@luigiprovencher It depends on the kerf of the cut off wheel. I typically use 1/16" kerf on my cut off wheels. If you use a large kerf, like 1/8" I can see how that would work
Exactly what I was looking for a easy way to bend stainless steel at home with out a brake, gonna make a camper trailer kitchen from my old stainless steel bbq
Thanks Doug. No link to the VG bender tool. I am going to attempt to bend 0.125 aluminum diamond tread using this method. I like the radius bend, so to not crack the metal... if I can figure out how to allow for the radius. I have bent this metal before by clamping, like you did, but used a hammer and arm strength, but of course, hammer leaves dents.
Is it possible to make an open hem fold on a 16 gauge stainless steel piece that is 1.5 inch width using this method??? I was think if I clamped down a much thinner piece and I bent it up instead of down then it would work - but that’s just me thinking and I have zero experience. I’m desperate for a solution and can’t find a tool to do this that’s under $200.
Great video! Thanks! I have to replace some sections of 16 gauge sheet metal on an old 1948 Missouri Pacific caboose roof. Likely around 60 feet altogether, and I am thinking in 8 foot long (max) sections since that is what I am seeing available. Can this technique be used for pieces as long as 8 feet? It's for the edges of the caboose, so the pieces will be rounded over instead of a tight bend.
I did some tool boxes a way back and use that same approach , to be the first tool boxes I made it was a great satisfaction, is good to se a pro reinforcing what I was thinking was bad
I've done that using this method. Moving the top plate furtther back from the line after you've bent the 90, you can keep pushing it beyond the 90 degrees
I think this is a great video. I have watched many old school tradesman fix or fab up things with these old time must know "tricks of the trade". These simple, but not always easy tasks separate the men from the boys. Thanks for sharing, as this type of knowledge benefits young men out there trying to become skilled tradesmen.
It's the ubiquitous flexible fabric bandaid that makes this real. Anyone, doing anything in their shop who isn't wearing one is a pretender. Thanks a lot for this. I have an old, inheritied, steel table Craftsman table saw that I use for bending the once a decade times I need to bend sheet metal. If I want a sharper radius I use a 2x4 and a 4 pound sledge and then the sledge by itself. Obviously I never bend for pretty. Thanks again.
What if you put the cut/ score on the inside of the bend? And before you bend it - you give the cut a quick hit with some spray paint to seal it off from rusting?
If you use a wider cut off of wheel bending into the cut is a little better. For this I was using a very thin cut off and bending into the cut causes the two edges to hit and prevents a full 90 degree bend.
Thank you for this great video and providing an alternative. Wouldn't the cut in the metal weaken the strength of the metal. I need to do a Z cut with only 2 inches in between for the channeled floor pan on my hot rod . Do you usually add a bead of welding to increase rigidity?
Great point! It all depends on the project for me. Sometimes I will had a bead along the corner to strengthen. If I'm making a simple tray of a project with less concern for strength and its more for looks, then I don't add the bead.
Why not perforate with elongated holes along the bent line instead ? It will not lead to fracture as fast as cutting along the ende as you did. Overall a good video though.
I think drilling holes would consume more time and definitely need to be welded afterwards. If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly. Thanks for watching, its greatly appreciated.
@@ArtfullyRogue Depends on the result you want. If you laser cut or water jet cut it´s not a big deal. There are patented perforations especially for that. If you want to bend really thick material which you can´t otherwise it can make sense as well. If you don´t want to weaken the bend which leads to a fatigue fracture as well, scoring the metal will lead to a fatigue fracture for sure and you need to weld that as well, welding holes shut can be easier and faster, again depending on the result you need. It´s usually used for small batch manufacturing or prototyping with precise and easy bends.
