What do you mean when you say "get this water to fill in the reverse flow that it actually flows when it's on" aren't you just pushing water through the return line to bleed the lines?
That was very helpful thank you very much! Unfortunately our boiler has 5 zones to it and I'm including the hot water tank. I say "ünfortunately" because none of the entrances to the zones have ball shut off valves except to the hot water tank. Do you think the switches on the thermostat callers for the zones are sufficient, not sure if that is the right name for the mechanism, but I think that they are the same thing that the system in your video had in the silver boxes, except mine aren't in silver boxes; nevertheless do you think when purging one zone, that will induce air into one or more of the other zones because the entrances 'do not having ball valves?' And Do digital hydrostat controls need to be reprogrammed every time the power is turned off? And if they do would that mean the thing hasn't been working as it should ever since our power went off months ago?
Nice video.. can u do this with out the 2 zone valves? I have 2 small loops one goes to the 2nd floor and one loop to the first floor but I only have one thermostat..
Enjoyed this video> On my system there are four zones each with its own circulator coming off a manifold on the supply side. There are no purge stations on the returns. Can I bleed the zones at the drain at the end of the supply manifold pipe?
I invested in an inexpensive thermal imaging camera that attaches to my smartphone to see the difference in temps by color. The images give a more professional look when sent in with the invoice to the customer and keep you from risking burning your hand touching pipes.
hi, I have a similar issue but mine is a 4 zone heating system where one zone isn't heating up. If I'm not comfortable doing this by myself, which field should I call? Is it plumbing or is it heating? If it's plumbing, are there different kinds of plumbing that deals directly with the furnace/boiler? Thank you very much.
I am no plumber but I can share how I would go about checking which one is needed or to determine which zone is for which floor. 1. To check which zone belongs to which floor turn all the thermostats off except for one. This will open the zone valve on the pipe that corresponds to that floor/zone. As for which zone needs to be purged of air, usually the zone return pipe will have a colder temp than a zone that is circulating water normally. BE CAREFULL and use a digital temp reader or thermal image camera. If you don't have that be sure to touch the return pipe far enough from the boiler that the pipe isn't hot just from being closing enough to the boiler. In my experience 6ft away from the boiler (measuring backwards from the circulator pump) or 3 feet before the zone valve. (For me the return pipe for each zone would be the tell. The temp difference on the pipe of a zone which has an air pocket preventing the water from circulating back to the circulator pump and the temp of the pipe on a zone which the water is circulating properly will have a significant difference). Cold pipe means no circulation.
Standard pressure is 12 psi. Add 3 psi per floor so if the boiler is in basement, 12 to 18 psi is ok when cold. When hot, it will increase to about 21 and the expansion tank, set to the system pressure of 12-18 will absorb the hot water expansion. The pressure relief valve is set to release water at 30 psi.
First, thank you for your question. Note I put up the channel as a way to share some of the knowledge I have obtained from managing residential rental property, being a home owner and a registered home improvement contractor. I have not considered that questions may come in and I have not build my business to the point where I can dedicate enough time to regularly review and answer questions here so I apologize for answering so late. I am not a plumber so I cannot tell you with certainty. However, some areas have seals that interact with air and seals become worn over time. Air Vents, Expansion tanks, Service drain valves, the rubber seal on either side of the circulator pump. I sometimes notice rust spots around threaded joints and other parts mentioned above, with rubber or teflon seals on boilers. I'm thinking, If water can make it out, air can make it in as well. Hope this helps.
@@propertymanagementandrepai2356So you're not really fixing anything? You would need to replace all of the rubber seals to prevent this from happening again?
Most common cause of air getting into your system is water leaking somewhere, relief valves, pipe joints rust etc just like the person posting this video answered. It happens over long periods of time so usually every few seasons depending on how bad the leak is. Water leaks and it gets replaced with air.
My question is how do I make it so I stop getting so much heat. I have a maintenance man that my landlord doesn’t know intentionally and maliciously attacks several of the tenants recently causing several people in my apartment to move out for several reasons. Recently his new tactic is to crank out heat up to unbearable levels where we report it and it changes for next to no time at all and it’s back up to levels no one else in my building experiences
