I Look forward to every video. This was another great video. Summer is finally leaving us here in the Northeast US, but it's heading to you! Cool weather riding for US Northeast ahead, until the snow comes, then it's indoors on zwift. I needed recently to create one of your tools for pressing new bearing cups into a new frame, worked great at 1/10th of the cost. Your practical approach to solving problems is very helpful. - Thank you...
superb video - simple, clear and great explanation. As others mentioned, it's the best guid I've seen. Graphics / animation of hydraulic system very interesting too. Thanks a lot for this
Regarding Mineral Oil. Bicycle manufacturer oils are extremely expensive but they are to a specification (ISO 7308). The Diggers mineral oil from Bunnings you have purchased is not - it may even say something like, "not for suspension or brake system purposes", of course YMMV - But not something I would personally use. So with my own research into this (and not wanting to pay too much for Shimano branded oil) I ended up with a 1L bottle of Penrite Full Synthetic LDAS ($30 retail from Repco/SuperCheap off the shelf - even less with their monthly 30% sales). It is rated to higher temps than normal mineral oil (and designed to work in those systems) and being full synthetic the chemical compound will not break down with temps - so for you nut cases going 70km/h down old belair road, this means less brake fade and boiling. Buy a bottle between you and your mates, you don't even use that much for a bicycle system (100ml front and rear) - Although green fluid will more than likely horrify any by-the-book shop mechanics... So to recap - Penrite LDAS Fluid: 1) Specified/designed/rated to work in brake systems (wont damage your seals) 2) Cheaper than Shimano fluid (in my experience) 3) Very good off the shelf availability. 4) As a synthetic product, greater performance than standard OEM. Hope that helps, cheers. But all that could be rambling and you may be fine with the hardware store alternative.
Thanx for your research. Havnt had any lack of braking due to heat and we have some brake testing descents here too. Time will tell about the seals but as yet havn't come across anyone with issues with baby oil yet.
Geez, I go flat out down Old Belair Road on stretch cruiser with V brakes, no problem. The others in group still running coaster brakes have some over heating issues though.
Just be wary of the boiling points. Mineral oils have a wide range of BP from memory Shimano is about 265 deg C. Also brake oils often have additives to prevent corrosion in the system. 60ml of shimano oil costs $3.00 delivered so I just stick to that.
Steven, I've seen numerous photos of failed, defective hollow Shimano crank arms that are either broken, cracked, or even broken off. Can you, please, do a video on crank arms, if hollow is okay, and if they are not, when did they begin to become faulty. Thanks.
If I ever stripped a reservoir bolt I would cut a slot in it and use a flat head :) If you get grease or oil on your brake pads its not always the end of the world, just clean with brake cleaner and oils will have no chance. I use Kerosene because its just what I have at hand and it isnt the best, kerosene is a very powerful degreaser but it alone leaves an oily residue and doesnt evaporate.
Try evenly scouring off 1mm ish off the pads with a flat metal file or even on a flat cement surface then final scrub with toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol.
Great video...as always! Can you point me to a video that covers installing hydraulic brakes out of the box?M For example, a lot of MTB brakes come with hoses already attached out of the box. Is this the same for road bikes when you buy a groupset? Does this mean they already have the brake fluid in them? If so, how do you detach the hose, route the hose, cut the hose and reattach without getting brake fluid everywhere and contaminating you bike? Hope that makes sense. Thanks!
Yes,new brake kits have the fluid already in the lines. 'Specialized' have an installation vid for this. Not many people are going to buy complete new brakes for their bikes tho so its prolly a bike shop job.
Great videos and channel. Very well explained. Is it normal that when I squeeze the lever before removing the syringe and closing the bleed port, there’s not only fluid coming back to the syringe but also a lot of very small air bubbles? I checked my lines and can’t seem to find a leak, but my lever is still touching the drop bar after the bleed. With the reservoir screw off, I can see that the fluid level is at the top, but it goes down a fair bit after the first squeeze, then the lever becomes a big more consistent, but if I don’t squeeze anymore then the fluid goes up to the top and the lever becomes soft again…
Power steering fluids vary between 7 and 42 S.G. at 100 deg C depending on the system. Shimano oil has a boiling point of 265 deg C and includes anti corrosion additives. Online 60ml is only $3.00 delivered.
Hopefully a related question. I'm going to replace my front fork with one that has more attachment bag screws. Is it just another step in this overall process to remove the brake and detach the hose? My brake hose does travel through the fork. Other steps?
Hi Maester! after watching some videos on the topic i was a bit confused why some people use a reservoir (glas, whatever) on the bottom of the brake and with the cup+ oil on the top lever and open the bottom screw, press the lever and close the screw. Several times, untill the top cup fluid goes all the way down. as you showed, its just another way right? but pushing from bottom to the top..? thanks
@@stevenleffanue yes, that was more logical to me. the only thing i found that could be better using gravity is to remove the dirtier old oil from the bottom directly without pumping it all through the cables up...but not sure if this is real a problem..cheers
It's to try and stop Magpies swooping. They are lethal this time of the year, the males want to protect the nests. They can really hurt or even damage your eyes or make you crash. One guy has already died this year riding a bike, the Magpie made him crash and he suffered a fatal head injury. I was attack yesterday, twice. The first one was nothing really, I even found it funny, but the second one was nothing to laugh at.
I did all the step showed on the video but my breaks are still a little bit soft/spongy (Shimano ultegra ST 8070) I’m using original Shimano mineral oil . 20ml already . Any suggestion?
They sheaths will push out from inside...use a blunt ended wooden broom stick or such. Otherwise remove cups and you can push out the sheaths with a light tap of rubber/wooden mallet.
Hi, Oz! Have a question here either. A Shimano manual typically suggests much more complicated sequence for bleeding. In particular, they add some steps with reversed flow bleeding while tapping calipers/hoses and adjusting handlebar +/- 30 degrees. Even for the modern calipers marketed as "one way bleeding". Do I get it right that having pretty much experimented with all this, you find all these extra steps not really necessary?
Tapping calipers and lines helps yes. One way bleed from caliper to lever is fine tho. Sometimes air bubbles can get stuck in corners and declines , reverse bleed helps to dislodge them.
naahh i still stick to the manufacturer specifications. using baby oil as substitute still to risky to ruin your hydraulic brakeset. i watch seth video and lot said is not good, some it works like a charm
No, just NO!!! Poor information, especially concerning the mineral oil and you did not even complete the process correctly. There are no shortcuts to hydraulic disc brakes. Someones life might depend on them.
@@stevenleffanue You can do whatever you want. You're giving information out to others who you have no responsibility for. A shop worth anything would never put themselves in such a liability.
