I used to work at Volvo's development facility here in France and I was operating a chassis dyno. We used to break in (engines a little bit) but also gearboxes and rear axles at different loads. Our dyno had 2 big DC motor directly coupled to 9000kg rollers. That way the dyno can simulate road resistance given the right data or be in Iso speed mode. You set a roller speed that matches your rpm and gear, and you can do whatever you want with load. Very handy!
@@therightnuke I should have precised, it was Volvo Trucks facility. To some its not quite as exciting, but having 750hp trucks full noise trying to tear appart every component is quite satisfying :D The same on the engine dyno, Penta has a twincharger 725hp engine (big Holset helped by a twinscrew blower and electromagnetic ogura clutch). The max torque steady rpm point made the floor shaking. Good memories :D.
The dyno dynamics all wheel drive dyno at my job also has loud input. You can lock it at a certain speed and actually up the loud to simulate different driving conditions. We often break in new engines that
Use am adapter and a hand vacuum pump to pull a little vacuum on the power steering reservoir while doing your bleed procedure. Learned this working at the Ford dealership. Helps pull the aerated fluid up and out.
20:09 I really appreciate how Speed Academy is willing to listen to suggestions, feedback, and ideas from the comments section. There's been a trend for a while now among automotive RU-vidrs to endlessly complain about the comments section, even though in reality the kind of comments they complain about are an incredibly small minority, or often don't even exist.
I had an issue with my power steering making noise and that was just the reservoir not being mounted correctly, it was hard mounted and the vibrations caused it to suck up air, so had to mount it on some rubber bushings, then do the turning full lock to lock 5-10 times before it got quiet .
Tip: When installing ARP studs that way (I have done it aswell) - The threads get super hot and sharp. Use a lubricant on the threads as engine oil or WD40 instead, and it works muuuuch better. Doesnt get as hot, and it pulls the stud in a lot easier.
@@alfredotovar8984 The lube is used to get the correct torque on threads/nuts/washers when torqueing headstuds for example. These longer wheel studs are in fact meant to be pressed in. I believe even the instructions state clearly to not mount them this way (but 9/10 people do including myself) they are supposed to be pressed in when the hub is off the car - So a little lubricant on the threads makes it go much smoother. I didnt use WD40 on the 2 first studs on my car, and they almost got destroyed. Then used wd40 on all the rest of them, and they had no visible marks on the threads from installation, even the "wrong" way.
@@Doggepp you can also buy, small bearings wich helps it not binding on the hub, but if not using those some oil or grease on the washers will also help.
Don’t go mad with the front wheel spacers, going much over 10mm will give the steering a strange feel as it effects the offset from the ball joint and the Ackerman angle. Get some wider wheels.
To bleed the Evo pump, make sure all jubilee clips are tight, jack the front of the car up a little, start the engine and give it full left lock (hold for 3 seconds) then full right lock (hold for 3 seconds). Do that a few times and it should bleed the air out. I had the same issue on my 6.
If you want it to handle well lift the nose a little. CP9A’s don’t like having front lower control arms inverted will also balance it better. Also bin the spacers. Love the car. Floods my memory of my VI.
With the car running and the power steering reservoir cap off, turn the wheel lock to lock repeatedly (fairly quickly but not too fast) until the noise gets quieter, making sure to top it off if need be. Once it seems like you hit diminishing returns with how quiet the noise gets, put the cap back on and just drive it for a while. It will bleed itself over time, make sure to check the level now and then but the amount of air is *probably* so small you won't need to top it off.
Hey the Evo 6 has a known issue with the fuel gauge misreading because the tank is split in the middle for the prop shaft. great to see the Evo up and running!
As many cars as you guys build, you might want to look into a wheel stud puller, it’s a tapered bit for the lug, but it rides on a bearing that helps everything go through easier.
The problem with the power steering could be a bad o-ring on the low pressure/"suction" side of the pump that is allowing air into the system. I had a similar problem on a mid 2000's Honda that I was fixing for a relative of mine a year ago.
For the power steering issue, make sure the reservoir is full, wheels up in the air, with engine off turn the wheel lock to lock a couple times slowly and check for any bubbles in fluid. When no bubbles present, turn engine on and at idle slowly turn from one lock direction to the other, hold wheel at that full lock point and turn the engine off, let it rest and the bubbles dissipate. Then continue the same to the other side. If noise isn't gone after that, it's probably something with the pump. Good luck with the project. I'm attempting to convert my 95 mirage sedan to and Evo 3.
How about you guys replace that under hood insulator? Its looking kind of ragged. I recently replaced mine and made a world of difference visually. I know its not a performance part, but that engine-bay is sweet and it would compliment everything under the hood. Nice work!
My Impreza pump did that after a drain and refil too, I turned lock to lock as fast as I could 3 or 4 times with the front jacked. Didn't work so I did it while driving in a quiet street. Fixed.
If you remove the pump, you could check if there is any play on the bearing or if you hear a metal pinging noise if you spin the pulley. I did that on my car and it worked.
Great work! I have always broken my engines in on the dyno also, you should have given more than 3-6lbs of boost on initial break in (if you ask me). We often run about 1.1-4bar..
U might need to adjust the rate of change on the fuel guage to slow the movement. Not sure with the AIM but the Race Technology dash, you average the samples across a lot longer period otherwise the fuel guage goes all over the place.
Hey guys congrats on getting the Evo on the road! Its great to see. I live live watching this kind of content. I do the same kind on work on my e36 track only M3. Anyway try raising the front end (or just the driver/side so the air goes up to the reservoir) again and turning the steering wheel w/ the motor on till the wine goes away. It may take more then 5 try. And maybe Tap the lines and steering rack to agitate the potential air in the system. Not sure if that will work or not. Ok keep up the vids coming. 👍
Glad to see the first drive going well. As far as the power steering issue, it could be a hose that is collapsing internally and not allowing fluid to the pump
I had a filter in the power steering reservoir on my 4g63t that didn’t even look clogged but I just removed it and the fluid was able to flow much better. Just replace the fluid sometimes and you don’t need any silly filter that seems to hurt the flow thats needed anyways. May possibly be an issue for you. If you have a little filter inside that were you check the fluid. Remove it!
I believe the wheels need resistance for power steering to actually function. (Wheels on the ground, not in the air) because the rotary valve in the rack needs to twist to allow fluid flow into the rack that's probably why you couldn't bleed it, when the wheels are in the air there is no resistance
So over it? oh no! Hope you don't have to work on another one any time soon! :D :D Sick build as always. Cool that so many projects are coming together.
stick it on the ramps, turn engine over, fill oil res, start turning the wheel lock to lock, at least 10 times each way, keep an eye on the res for any bubbles. Turn engine off - Job done :)
Loving the videos guy as well as that Evo! We specialize in Subarus and evos at my job and it's nice to see one being properly built. You should see some of the cars were brought LOL
Nice work guys and i love the silver on the evo and love the wheels.Powersteering pump is busted if it keeps making noise.I encountered that a few time in my 12 years of beeing a mechanic(volvo).So i would start with the pump first, could be the rack too but never had any problems with steering racks to be honoust.Keep on wrenching guys and good luck with the finishing touches.👍✌️👉
Sometimes power steering pumps are sensitive if you dont bleed the it properly from the start. Sobits probably a dead pump. I never crank the engine while bleeding. Just lift it and crank the wheel 20-40 times lock to lock and have someone watch and fill the reisivor, when the bubbles are out start the car and a lot of small bubbles will come up and top off.
never knew about this stuff breaking an engine in. you learn every day. could you also explain why to do this and what happens if you dont? not that I'm going to need this information but I like knowing things :S
If you don't do a proper break in, the piston rings may not seal properly and you may have problems ranging from less power to oil consumption due to poor sealing. The cylinder bore is honed before engine assembly, and it's this honed surface that the rings cut their seal on. The honed surface has microscopic highs and lows on its surface, think like a saw blade. So if you don't break in the engine properly, you can 'glaze' the bore where burnt oil fills up the highs and lows the honed surface has, and the ring won't cut itself a seal, it will kinda glide across it.
Does the p/s pump have a line seal on the suction side or is the reservoir hose really hard when cold. Both can cause aeration without too much foaming of the fluid. Hope this helps
Is that a Dolphin (Delphin) gray 1988 BMW 325 back there? Could be mine, I sold it to someone in Barrie about 8 months ago and then they recently sold it. Sedan, auto? Aside from that, the Evo is a thing of beauty guys, one more legend to add to Pete's incredible fleet of cars.
Turn the wheel lock to lock on the ground few times it help ot bleed better as it putting load on the pump also sometime it take a while to bleed out all the air
Hey guys, love this series. Which company do you have the Evo insured with? I'm military relocating from MB to ON and it's hard to find a straightforward answer. Thanks!
I used to have that same PS whine with my rb25 anytime I drained the system (or blew out a line). I did the same thing, getting the wheels off the ground and holding revs to 3k rpm while steering from lock to lock but that never worked. The only solution was to just drive it and do some high rpm pulls to get the flow high and force those micro bubbles from the system.
Not keen on putting that kind of loading on the wheel bearing with the hammer. I always putt the hub off and put it on a flat surface with a appropriately sized socket supporting the hub around the old stud.
If your bov is vented to the atmosphere and its using a stock mitsu maf it wont idle. Recirculate the bov if that's the case. You'll richen it out and that may not be great for the rings without it. But I'm guessing it meters the air in some other fashion with the aem?
Power steering whine. I had and Audi one time that I had to replace the high pressure hose on. I just had a custom one made because the factory one was crazy expensive; it whined like crazy and aerated the fluid like crazy even after bleeding it for days. Turns out there was some sort of restrictor in the factory line that would limit the flow. Put a factory hose with the restrictor in it on the car and it was quiet as a mouse. Don’t know evo’s much but maybe something to consider? Does it need a restrictor or could it be bad if it has one?
These Evo’s tend to understeer, now you have set your camber and know you have a lot more clearance to the front wings lips, get some wider rubber on the front 👍
Regarding power steering: had similar issue on my STI and it turned out to be I needed to change seals in the pump. It could be sucking air from a line somewhere.
What fixed my whiny power steering in the STI was switching to Amsoil ATF, though it was also starting to weep a little fluid at the pump feed line. Did you check o-rings? Also, try the air-bleeding method of turning the wheel back and forth while the engine is off before starting it back up. Might need to do it on the lift though.
Really dig the dash and CAN module. Another thing i'm hoping to see from AEM (unless i missed them already having it), is a PDM. Replacing all the old fuses and relays, especially with older cars, with re-settable solid state components, is so nice. Looking forward to the next videos! Also, Anti-lag when
Just did a very similar job on my Evo IX. I had tried to fill the power steering system before first start with car in air, reservoir open and turning wheels side to side. Wouldn't take it. On first start the pump wined as expected and we topped it up just while it idled and that seemed to more or less fix it. I then put some light miles on it and topped it up again which seemed to improve steering feel. I do not really know what I'm doing so I'm interested to know what you find out as well. My system was none dry to start with as I replaced the rack and the main feed line and had the entire system out of the car. It was down to a Barr chassis like yours for rust repair
Can you see air bubbles in the P/S reservoir? Is the fluid Milky? is there a noticeable change in P/S fluid during steering. Check if P/S fluid level remains within 5 mm when engine is stopped or when started. Does P/S fluid level suddenly rises after the engine has stopped? all signs of improper P/S oil system bleeding
For the PS maybe wrong PS fluid ?? As dumb as it may seem, some JDM cars use ATF Dex-Merc 3 instead of PS fluid and the manual only has a small mention on a small (see hidden lol) text
Having just watched an episode on aero, lifting the hood only works to let heat out when the car is stationary; at speed it becomes a high pressure zone and will prevent air leaving the bay anyway.
That actually is the opposite of how that works, it’s like an old cowl hood, air will come in the front like normal and air also comes in a raised hood, then they create stagnant airflow making the problem worse.
kostas stergiopoulos In theory that’s what you would think, just doesn’t work in practice. Like someone said some guys do it for cooling after a run, but I just pop the hood.
