Tried this and was floored. Using this method got the arm sweat stain off my Les Paul I hadn't been able to buff out for decades using guitar polishes.. It looks brand new, sealed and removed every single one of the little scratches and swirls it had from the years. This doesn't work good, it works PERFECT. Do have to say though that I did take the time to go find all of the exact same products Will is using here, and followed his instruction exactly like he lays it out, you do that, and there's no way you can't do a fantastic job. Every guitar I own looks like it just rolled off the assembly line now. THANK YOU SO MUCH WILL!!! Very awesome to share your knowledge with us all and we greatly appreciate your time!
Re: Guitardoode's - I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of the points I forget. My advice is: WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. Trust me... I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience.
I also used this method on my 30-year-old Les Paul custom today and am awestruck by how well it came out. I had to use a D/A instead and was nervous about it but I decided that needed to get done at some point in time. The final product was very good as I wiped away thirty years of arm sweat and all those tiny scratches. I may not have attacked it hard enough with the rubbing compound as I still have a couple of small hazy spots left but I'll get those on my next go-round next year. Those four compounds did the trick and did not burn through as long as the pad kept moving. I'm very happy to have found this video... as instructional as though we're students of his.
I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of POINTS I FORGET. My advice is, WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience. It costs money AND time. Thanks again, Will. You've already upped my game greatly
To polish the edges of any flat sided guitar, I use the SIDE EDGE of the buffing pad, and wet/apply compound to the sides of the pad and work on the sides while the body is lying flat.
I watched the whole series from beginning to end. By far the best videos on RU-vid for creating a sunburst finish! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! I feel confident that I can create a quality finish on my guitar kit now. I learned so much...thanks again!☺
Just followed your exact steps and process using the exact same products. I am absolutely amazed on how it turned out. Can't thank you enough for this video! Cheers!
This is how I like to keep my garage. Everything is well lit, organized, and I never keep anything that I'll never use. Better to throw it out rather than accumulate a bunch of junk to get in the way!
Thank you. After searching for a few months for a finishing system/method that was simple and relatively inexpensive I decided to go with what you have presented in your video. I finished my first guitar with fine result. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.
Will, I've watched and rewatched several of your videos. I so appreciate your through advice. I hope my daughter's guitar turns out halfway decent. Tomorrow I finally polish!
Really great tutorial. I just bought an LP Custom that someone has scratched all over with what looks like a kitchen scourer. I'm planning on polishing it out myself and this is exactly the information I need.
Thank you for the informative lesson. I used Scratch Out ( plexiglass cleaner), a dual action buffer (~3500 rpm) and Chemical Guys BUFX_107_HEX5 Hex-Logic Ultra pad to remove swirls from my Martin Custom Guitar (~$10,000). And guitar now has a pristine finish. This pad works great!
@Quad1000, Yes this works with ANY clear coat finish. The thing is, with acoustic guitars, the clear coats are much thinner typically than an electric guitar. Plus, there's a lot more "open" or exposed pore wood surfaces on an acoustic (the entire inside of the box is unsealed, unfinished wood) so you have to be careful when polishing and using wet buffing compound. Tread lightly with acoustics, but this does a great job period ...
+Will Kelly any good Auto Parts or Auto Paint Store will have the necessary supplies ... The polishing pads fit on to a 3/8" drill chuck, and the compounds are usually marked for relative abrasiveness ... I use "KIT" Plexiglas polish for my fine polishing, it does a fantastic job and is finish friendly ... Use one pad for each compound type, so you don't cross contaminate them with other abrasive types
THANK YOU WILL!!! I have been struggling with finishes for quite a while. I'm building Latvian Kokle's (a baltic psaltry) and get 50-100 hours into something only to screw it all up with an amateur finish. You're details and step by step has given me the best results by far! One thing I'd like to add (if someone is nosing around for help with acoustic finishes), if you're lacquering raw softwood (w/o the sunburst) such as spruce, a french polish type application (piece of sponge wrapped in cheese cloth) of clear dewaxed shellac before the lacquer seems to even everything out and makes the finish even better.
@Ken... yes, this procedure works great for any type of finish. The thing w/Nitro is, you have to wait until it cools down (after buffing out) before you wipe the finish down. The buffing pad and compound actually "melt" the top of the lacquer slightly, and when you're done with the buffer, let the finish cool down for about 5 minutes before cleaning/wiping. But, if you do this to a satin finish, you'll end up with a glossy finish .... is that what you're going for?
I'm so glad that I "accidentally" got on to this site....was trying to find some buffing compound for my new Jazzmaster paint job....this was my first paint job on a guitar body....I used nitrocellulose lacquer in "spray cans".......next time, I will grease my wallet hinges and get a good spray gun to do the painting....lesson learned. I'll got look for all those items as Stew Mac has everything on B/O and can't wait that long at "holding my breath". Fortunately, I have the old Johnson Paste Wax I used on my wooden floors so that is one item I won't need. I will be doing all the buffing/polishing by hand so this will take some time...I know, I'm just a masochist and love pain ! ! ! Thanks a lot Will for this instructive video.
Well, it looks like I'm learning the hard way how important the prep and sanding is. These buff and polish videos are awesome. The smooth, mirror finish is incredible... but when I shine the light just right I can see what I think is the bad sanding technique in between the lacquer coats. Looks like I'll be covering those high gloss swirls with a satin finish. I guess that's why we work it out on an inexpensive kit, and work our way out... and up. (And I'm all ears for hot tips.) Your videos are priceless, Will. Looks like I'll be back trackin' before I get rolling on my more expensive LP Jr. Thanks again, Sean
I had similar success as Guitar doode. I Have a Gibson SG that my strumming arm dulled the lacquer decade's ago. I was able to bring back the original gloss without thinning the finish to much. I used similar products but not the same brand names. I just made sure I used the same "heavy, medium,fine method" and it turned out great.
Nice video, great job! For old bodies I like to use the 4" pads. They allow you to work around areas that need to be taped off. Also, I use a German car product Klass Glaze as my final application. 3K grit wet, MG's cut, MG's Medium, MG's Polish, Klass All in One Cleaner wax and finally Klass Glaze. POP! I may have to work in the Kit product on my next batch.
Mathius, I do show how to buff the sides, if you'll watch the video... just turn the buffing pad ON IT'S SIDE, and use the edge to buff the sides. The cutaway needs to be polished and buffed by hand, using soft cloths ... don't try to force the 5" foam pad inside the cutaway, it's too tight to fit... You can always buy smaller buffing pads w/arbors, such as those made for cleaning Auto Rims ...
I'd really start with no higher than 800 grit/wet. The wet factor increases the abrasiveness so it's really the equivalent of using 600. Be very conservative and DO NOT sand edges ... wipe the surface constantly and clean the sandpaper constantly for the most professional results. Good Luck@!
Thanks for this detailed guide! It's my first time to try and restore a bass. It's electronics are fine, thank God, but the way it looks now is a bit "personalized" so I'll try to fix that and reset the way it looks since it's got a new owner now. 16:46 now this makes me wonder how the pro's in this field do it. 😅 Especially since my newly acquired bass is a around 20+ years old.
Hi Will, what a great series of instruction videos - thanks for putting them "on da 'Tube"! I'm lucky to have stumbled across 'em right now, as I'm just about to do some major work on one of my basses - including a total refin. Hey, that's what I call perfect timing! :-) I also dig your way of taking your time, guiding the viewer through the individual steps in a very calm and most informative fashion. Although I've done quite a bit of guitar (re-)finishing before, I've found that there's still so much to learn, and I can hardly wait to get started with my next project. All the best & kind regards from Heidelberg, Germany
My finish repair attempts need to improve. They are poly finish but I'm still going to incorporate some of your tips. I'll be watching more of your vids, nice work :)
Thank you for all the tips! I'm in the process of building my first guitar. Once it is done (Hopefully in a week) I will post a video of my process. I would love a professional critique of my process to make my next project better. I have made a few mistakes so far, but I am hoping it will still turn out good. Thanks again for your help with my project!
Never seen the neck and body finished and polished before setting and gluing the neck. Would have been nice to see the neck being glued to the body after doing so. Other than that this was a nicely done how to series on spray can finishing a guitar.
your videos are incredibly helpful. watching other ones as well to get more of an idea of the sort of thing I need to do, but your's are more descriptive and thorough. thanks from leeds, uk!
great breakdown of the steps and materials needed but I think you may have mixed up the pads you used on the final two steps using the drill - it looks like you picked up the pad marked "KIT" for the fine cut stage and then the fine-cut pad for the Kit plexiglass polish. Probably quite easy to do when you're distracted by making a film of yourself. Anyway, thanks for the great run down on what to do and what pitfalls to look out for - very helpful indeed.
Great demonstration. Looking forward to trying these techniques. Only disappointing thing was.... I was looking so forward to you showing your work. Wanted to see that gleam. :-) Thanks again.
Hey Will. Thanks for the video. I tried a slight variation of your technique on the back of an Epiphone Les Paul. It didn’t go well. I used Maguire’s Ultra Compound (rather than the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound) on a 6” polishing pad I got for O’Reilly’s auto parts. After ten minutes, I wiped off the excess with a 420 GSM microfiber cloth. Since some of the computer dried, I added a squirt of water which made it easier to wipe up. This did a great job of getting out the larger scratches and didn’t leave many smaller scratches, with surprised the heck out of me. Next I used Maguire’s Medium Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad which left a ton of little scratches and dimmed the finish. I expected the dimming, not the six tons of little scratches everywhere. Ten minutes later I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. Next I used Maguire’s Fine Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This didn’t seem to do much one way of the other. Next I used Scratch Out on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This brighten the finish and removed some of the smaller scratches, but the overall result was very disappointing. Next Scratch Out on a new 6” microfiber bonnet strapped to a random orbital polisher. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. The finish was noticeably brighter and many of the smaller scratches were gone. Unfortunately, many of the larger scratches left by the Medium Cut Compound remain. Any other ideas? Thanks.
For the larger scratches, you'll probably have to start with polishing papers, maybe around 800 grit and work your way up to 3000 grit, before you start the polishing process. Polishing alone won't take out large/deep scratches
This is the kind of material that needs to be shown in prison curriculum throught the United States. Outstanding performance, master wizardry at its inner most beast mode
I feel that the hardest thing about polishing is finding a three or four step product combo that works. Rarely do you see a grit grade printed on a container of rubbing or scratch remover or polishing paste.
Car wax works perfectly fine on guitars as long as it doesn’t contain harsh abrasives. Cleaner wax this or what contain abrasive. I have been using turtle wax and other Car waxes on guitar’s for about 20 years and have never run into the type of problems that some people are concerned with
Very good video, but I still have two questions. How should I polish the sides of the guitar? With the same method? And if there are any curved surfaces on the front and the back (the guitar is a Strat), how are they polished properly? I mean how do I avoid "polishing away" the lacquer on top of the curve? (sorry for the bad english)
Hi, Will! Thanks for the video. I have one question. How is it possible to buff all those hard to reach areas of the guitar? I mean the areas on the guitar sides between the horns, cutaways. Is it possible to reach there with your normal buffing pads or you should use some smaller/different shape ones? Thanks in advance.
If you use Meguiars glaze instead of wax, the lacquer will continue to release thinner as it ages. This will improve the tone. The wax seals the lacquer and traps the solvent slowing or preventing a complete cure. A guitar can take 35 years to fully dry depending on the environment.
Ridiculous. First of all, the paint, finish, and wood don't do a damn thing as far as tone on an electric guitar. PERIOD. END OF STORY. On an acoustic it is minimal. Any hard finish is going to have the same type of sound reflection. The finish would have such a TINY effect on tone, no human ear on earth could distinguish the sound before and after doing ANY of this. SNAKE OIL BS
Hi Will, Thank you for the tutorial! It helps remove the apprehension that turns into procrastination of me polishing up my older Epi Dot! Is there another video on how to get the same level of success on polishing the sides of the guitars? Thanks!
I’m coming in new to the dance (3 plus years after the fact). That said, I believe the water you spray on the pad and the guitar to keep it moist throughout the process, is the “distilled water with one drop of soap in it”? Is that a correct assumption? Also, realizing that various soaps have various makeups (lotion/softeners [i.e. Palmolive], substances to break down oil/petroleum [i.e. “Dawn”]) which soap do you recommend, or use, for that magic single “drop”? Please advise and THANK YOU for these ridiculously perfect and well produced videos. I sure hope you got paid, or get paid, by all of the manufacturers endorsed within. You did a heck of a job Will! Sincerely...🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Applying wax (Carnuba is excellent) around any raw wood (screw holes, holes used for mounting Tune-O-Matic bridges and tail pieces, etc.) will protect the wood from swelling. Just use a Q-tip to apply the wax. When buying wax make sure it doesn't contain bees wax. This is why Brazillian Carnuba wax is best.
Hi Will, should I start the buffing after the last layer of lacquer cured ? or add a final wet sand before that? I guess the polish flatens things out anyway, but wanted to ask to make sure.
How to avoid buckle scratches....pull your belt around to your side so the buckle is not at the front. This is also a good idea if you try out a guitar in a store. Ref cleaning guitar body for years I have used "Duraglit" a metal polish (Yes metal polish)in the form of wadding impregnated with cleaner, I know you can get Duraglit on ebay. Always remember what we each say is merely our opinion, you have to try to agree or not.
Very informative! Quick question about level sanding...I know with the initial 800 grit, you sand until there are no more shiny spots. Any advice for how you know when you’ve sanded enough with the finer grits?
The same answer Jonathan, no more rough spots... You can see the difference in texture between the grits, and when going to a finer grit, the texture shows against the old, rougher finish
Hi Will, thanks for this very helpful video. I did follow you put a drop of something into the distilled water, but I did not catch that well. Can you please let me know what that is? A drop of soap? Or? Thanks, Tony
Wondering how this method would apply to drums. The staining would be similar but there are literally no flat surfaces. I'm more concerned about sanding/buffing technique.
Mr. Kelly, I'm doing my guitar neck, but I've seem to "RUN" into a little problem. I've seem to on my first application of lacquer all was going well till my second coat "in which I waited over a hour" but I developed two small run's going down the neck. My question is can I just wet sand it down with 600 till it is level with the rest of the coat or what? "HELP" !
My experience is that poly from Lowe's or Home Depot does not harden sufficiently to buff without leaving a haze. Can you recommend a gloss polyeurethane product that comes with a hardener?
Hello Will, GREAT tutorial vid! I even watched it twice, then subscribed. Two questions though; I get that the water bottle has distilled water. But you mention "it has just a drop of soap". What kind of soap? Is it the Wndx? And also the manufacturer has been censored for the #1 med cut and did the same for #2 fine cut, can you at least give it's initials? Thanks again for the great tutorial. God Bless, A.S.
I'm going to embark on your well detailed method. Do you wash out your pads at any point? If so, with what? Would it be advisable to remove all hardware before polishing procedure or can they be covered?
Specifically which pads would you recommend we use for the polishing/buffing? I heard you say that they're abrasive. I see an extra fine there. What are the others?
Hello there, nice tips, but i got some doubts, how do we do the inner side of the horn and the top of a Les Paul where some of the surfaces are uneven ?!
