@@Ashby_Farms_NC I think he's talkinga about how many of us are looking to learn how to make them, not how to assemble them from precut. If you have a video on how to cut the frame components I think a lot of people would be interested.
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience.
I inherited an assortment of old well worn frames and tested them all for strength, It was obvious that I needed to buy a staple gun as staples are stronger than nails and much faster than glue however i admire your enthusiasm, keep up the good work.
Staple or nail is faster, but only serves to hold as a “clamp” while the glue dries. The glue does all the work when it comes to holding the frame pieces together.
Looks well done to me. Something for others to consider if using TB3 instead of a more traditional wood glue is that the open time is a lot shorter, so in hot weather it can be as short as 10 minutes before one starts to lose strength. TB2 is almost as weather resistant and has twice the open time, so if one is not as speedy as this fellow, consider that as a good alternative.
I really like the use of conduit for the holding bars! It has two advantages over wood: one you can slide the pieces in easier because of the curve and to it’s dead street which is always a problem with wood bars because they usually have a little bend in them and the uneven tension makes the pieces fall over while you’re trying to install them in the holder
Surprisingly, the plastic conduits have the same bend over time. However, they slide in/out easily....You can call it luck....I call it a happy accident!
The reason the nails offer no support, is because you put them in straight up and down. (Top Bar) They’re supposed to go through the sides to counter the pull of extracting them from the supers.
A well glued frame will be more durable than any method of mechanical fastening. If a person is not inclined to using glue, then yes, nail placement matters.
I like the extra finger in the bottom of the side bars, they're not available in Australia, will see if suppliers can oblige...after trying wood, wire and wax foundation, all plastic, wood and plastic foundation, my own preferred standard frame is wood and plastic with my own wax hot rolled onto the plastic, much stronger and way more robust than
wood wire and wax, much quicker to assemble. Great idea on the assembly box, will try a batch as pre assembled frames have too many fails due poor quality control.
Enjoying your channel - keep up the excellent work. I'm a new beekeeper looking to expand and have a question: what's your take on all plastic frames (Acorn?)? They seem much cheaper than wooden frames with plastic foundations, not to mention, you don't have to take the time and energy to assemble them. Curious to hear your thoughts.
Those look like Bailey Bee frames. I recently bought some from them and they are tight! I do like that but I'm not a fan of the way the bottom bar is built, but I suppose it really doesn't matter. I'm curious why you designed the jig for 21 frames and not 20. I do like the use of conduit over wood though. Also I heard that firing a horizontal nail/staple from the side bar at a slight angle up and into the top bar is the most important thing in building frames. Any frames prebuild I buy have that so I did it on ones I've made as well. I couldn't imagine making 5k frames let alone 20k.
What would be the downside to placing the Acorn foundations in the grooves during assembly? Like setting them in place right before attaching the bottom bar?
Its not time efficient/effective. Often times the plastic inserts arent straight, but have a slight bow. You'd be fighting it about every 4th/5th frame. Its easier to do the same step repetitively at scale. I can pop in 100 inserts at 4-5 per min just before putting them in the hives.
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
Goodday reader. The question of Randy Hahn "have you ever tried flipping evert other one for assembly"? and you're answer! What does he mean by that. Just clarify it for me please. Thank you,Cobus🐳
@@Ashby_Farms_NC l mostly just said that cuz I didn't have enough time to get wood glue 😂 I had to fix one frame already that broke, but I noticed the bees glued it together wasn't really my plan. I liked your video
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience. You joke about the hearing protection, but ignore eye protection. Almost 92% of eye injuries are from mechanical means(not light/radiation/disease) and most of them happen at home and are preventable. In the agricultural sector, most of them occur from low branches surprisingly. Any ear protection helps, but eye protection is no joke. All you need is for a staple to blow the wood out one time and you’re blind in one eye and you have lost depth perception
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
