After watching a bunch of these keezer build videos, I really appreciate the mellow pace and that you're not talking over some crappy EDM music. Thanks!
How To Fix It Workshop its currently in progress. All planned out and supplies/parts are gathered, just waiting for some free time to slap it together.
Cool video. This is not a bashing, but I would definitely like to point out a few things for the new guys that are just getting into this hobby. Once your keezer is setup, run a cleaner through the new hoses/keg and tap (if you have not already kegged your beer), along with a dose of sanitizer like star-san (flavorless sanitizer) before you pour that first beer from your keg. Assembly tips: Crimp style hose clamps are a little more reliable when it comes to assembling leak-free hose connections, but they do not offer the ease of removal like a worm style clamp. Use soapy water in a sprayer to check/find those pesky gas leaks! I assembled my Co2 distributor/manifold onto the back board, so there is no 90 degree bend in the gas line, but this is just a personal preference. (Longer beer dispensing lines avoid foamy beer!) When removing the keezer door, loosen the screws with the door in the up/open position, this removes the spring tension on the door so you don't get a nasty hinge snap. You can then simply lift the door off the securing screws. Usually removing the upper screws and just loosening the lowers will allow a simple lift up of the door to remove it. The larger freezers are easier to do with a second person, but for the small 3 and 5 cubic foot freezers, the doors are very light and easy to do as a 1-person job. Good luck!
Nice summary. Just few builds here: 1) Add a bead of silicone along all internal seams, 2) consider adding some 1" insulation panels on the inside of the collar (especially if it will be sitting in a hot enviro); 3) purge all your gas lines (with CO2) once you are set up and before you attach any lines to beer kegs, and 4) place the temp probe in a small water bottle filled with a solution which will not freeze down to at least 20F (e.g. propylene glycol solution. Some folks use vegetable oil, but I prefer to keep oil out of the keezer since it is a mess to clean up if spilled). Just leaving the probe sitting in open air inside the keezer makes it very difficult to get stable temperature readings and thus temperature control.
Use popsicle sticks between the freezer and wood when you set up for the silicone to dry. That way you can put a little weight on top and not have to worry about squeezing all the silicone out too.
I know this is quite old now, but from what I understand a wide diameter line can result in dispensing glasses of foam, so lengths of very narrow diameter line coiled up ("pigs tails") are used as this helps prevent the co2 breaking out. Did you find this to be an issue with large diameter lines?
I'm about to start a similar project. I'm wondering how much value there is in creating a void space in the riser and filling it with an insulating material? You simply used 2x6 which simplifies the build greatly therefore I'm tempted to follow your example. The bottom line question is this...is there a noticeable advantage to creating an insulated riser?
Hey Mystery Man, thanks for the question. I'm not sure if insulating the collar is necessary since the temperature is kept above freezing. With the lid closed, the freezer is able to maintain a consistent temperature. Does that answer your question?
what size freezer would i need to fit 4 corny kegs? they usually give you external dimensions and capacity in litres which doesnt tell me the internal dimensions, is there a standard wall thickness so i can work it out? i know height is not a problem since ill be adding a collar, im guessing maybe approx 200 litre or bigger, i want it big enough for the kegs but want to keep it as small as possible, im hoping i can fit one next to my kitchen fridge without covering my radiator valve, i think theres about a meter, maybe i could get my brother to move the radiator back a bit, theres about 20cm it could be moved, but i obviously want to avoid this if possible cheers
Hello, I'm looking to make a kegerator then came across this. I want to make this one however by buddy said it wouldn't work due to it freezing. He tried one but it was in a stand up freezer.
David, you would use a Temperature controller. The freezer is plugged into the controller, and the controller is plugged into the wall. A temperature probe is inside the freezer. You set the temperature you want on the temperature controller. It will automatically turn your freezer on and off to keep it at the temperature you set. Here is the one I use, it's only $35 on Amazon - amzn.to/2GLTlVB
Jordan Smith I just did this myself with a smaller fridge and installing 3 taps. Used kegs were 50 bucks each. Co2 canister and regulator 150. All of the fittings and hoses 50. The taps and shanks were 200. The inkbird temp regulator was 35 bucks on amazon. Wood and silicone were 15. Sooo... minus the freezer, my cost was around $500.
I just used a clear & waterproof Silicone sealant. This attached the wood collar to the freezer, and prevented air leaks. I used something similar to this Gorilla Clear Silicone - amzn.to/2tqutMQ Thank you!
