Upside down you’re turning me, you’re giving love instinctively. I’m guessing one of the most feared parts of wheel building for the novice (like me) and possibly one of the hardest things to describe on video - especially upside down and back to front! Well done, as Joe Talbot might say 👏. I think you should be really happy with this one 👍. I have done it in the past and it is ‘relatively’ straightforward if you are methodical with attention to detail but if I’d seen this video first I’d have felt a lot better informed and confident. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and enthusiasm
LOL! A bit of Diana Ross there ;-) " 'Round and 'round". I do try. Keeping it methodical is absolutely the way forward. Cross referencing an existing wheel with the same spoke pattern is also a SUPER useful tip.
Ryan I was looking all over for a video on 2 spoke cross lace .(seen one or two other videos put they don't explain it like you do) Read Sheldon's description but I just could not get my Head around the over and under in the writing if you will . Without your video I don't think I would able to do it. NICE VIDEO and you explain really well Great job .Thanks for doing such a Great video. Nice stand to hold the wheel!! Acer
Fantastic news Peter! So glad it helped! For those that didn't know the above lacing instructions can be followed regardless of how many crosses you've got in the wheel; 1, 2, 3, 4X are all possible; you just change the number of sections and interlace on the final cross. Example; 3X goes over/over/under...4x over/over/over/under. Eception: 1x: NO interlacing!
really good video, Ive built quite a few wheelsets but really like the lacing order you use for the disc brake rear, very little spoke gymnastics required, also the valve hole confirmation is a nice trick allowing fine tuning of the key spoke before committing. Great stuff looking forward to future vids
Hi Ryan thanks for this video. Hopefully you could expand a but on why, for a disk brake wheel, the lacing in different in a future video. Thanks again.
I most certainly will! All will be revealed ;-). @Pverdone has a page up at ( www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikewheels.htm ) that is a good place to start as to understanding this. I'll elaborate more on my way of doing things in the future.
@@RyanBuildsWheelsperusing the local bike store I observed asymmetric and symmetric builds for rear disc wheels, doesnt appear to be a set standard might be down to what ever robot is availible
Good video. It's always interesting to see a different way of doing things and I picked up a couple of tricks that I'm going to try on my next build. Btw, the part near the beginning of the video where you show the Valve Hole Vision method for orienting the hub correctly is little difficult to see. The black rim on the black background with the black spokes makes it hard to pick up the details of what goes where. I re-watched that part a few times and got it figured out (I think). This was the only part of the video that a little unclear, to me at any rate. Btw, I'm enjoying this series. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
Thanks! Glad to help. Yes, agree on the Valve hole Vision segment; we weren't able to get it much brighter in post I'm afraid; It's a learning curve. I will make time shortly to try creating a clearer video, perhaps with diagrams as to how that works but glad you got it figured out in the end. *bosh!*
Hi Ryan, if you don't mind sharing in the next video, 1-would you mind explaining when to take measure of spoke tension (before or after the tubeless tire goes on, i notice this makes a decrease of about 10%)? 2-and secondly, at the same time when inflating the tire, i also notice that (despite stressing multiple times) the wheel goes about half a mm to the drive side on a rear wheel (or brake side in the front), should i compensate for this deviation? Many thanks, great video as usual 👌
Hey Phil! Already got that listed as a subject for a future video don't you worry! It's not as simple an answer as you might think but for a quick reply at the very least I do tend to re-dish a wheel by adding tension to the relevant side post tubeless setup. Depending on how great the tension drop is and *Depeneing on rim manufacturers suggestion* I'll often re-tension too. The why's and wherefores to all of this need ironing out but I'll have an answer in video form for you in the future you can be sure :-)> BIG UP the support for the video and channel; really appreciate it!
hi Ryan Thank you for this instruction. You start the first spoke to the left of the rim hole. However, there are also rims with the first spoke hole on the right side. You provided no further explanation on this. Perhaps this will happen and I am too early with my question. My question is therefore; With a right-hand rim I start at the second spoke hole to the left of the valve. Or do I start on the right? If I start on the right, the direction of rotation for the spokes must also be mirror image of the left, so an important question to which you certainly know the answer. Kind regards Ronald
*A good point* Details below. So I've kept this video simple and it should be noted that these instructions assume the user is building a *MODERN DAY QUALITY ALLOY OR CARBON* rim option. The 'standard' drilling for this that the industry has arrived at is that your right or drive side spoke holes in the rim are to to left of the valve hole. *SOME* modern day rims but lots of older (mostly French I find) vintage rims so indeed have this staggered pattern reversed and it's important that you stick to the rims drilling to avoid putting too much stress on spokes; should that be the case you'll need to 'reverse' these instruction and start to the right of the valve hole instead.
The videos on your channel are very interesting. Where can I buy the rubber mat that is installed on your work table? It seems strong and solid. What is the brand of the tapis or the reference? Thank you so much Greetings from France
The black stuff?! It's the same as I use for my workshop flooring actually! If you google something like "Rubber Garage Flooring Dot Penny Pattern Linear Metre" you'll find it! I've been using it on all my work surfaces for a while now and it also works to really tie the aesthetic of the shop together.
Great video! thanks Ryan! Quick question for you...is asymmetrical lacing imperative when lacing a disk brake rim? majority of wheels I've dealt with so far they all had been built symmetrical even if they where built with disk brake rims. TIA
Because I'm an amateur videographer / content creator who is just starting out and learning as he goes is why ;-). I If you want more quality DIY content with silly mistakes that won't be made again heaven forbid you watch the interview with BSC Tools (in which you actually get a **DISCOUNT CODE!!!***) but have to put up with some clunky sound... Anyway, thanks for helping me plug that little bit of info...I look forward to seeing your first upload ;-).
Me personally *yes*! I'm going to go into detail on this in the future in a video about symmetrical vs asymmetrical lacing patterns exploring how and why different manufacturers and builders recommend one way over the other. *But*, for ease of always having the same starting point in this video and for myself when building (an inbound drive side spoke that will end up as a leading spoke). Theoretically lacing a front disk wheel symmetrically with all leading spokes being OUTBOUND (so, the drive side in reverse to what I've shown here) is 'better', but long story short - after over a decade of building and having considered this with care and experience - it makes zero difference. I have seen wheels of all stripes - disk, rim brake, front, rear, etc - laced with both sym and asym patterns and not seen ANY which way lead to failures more so than any other. Quality components, good wheel design and spoke choice, and a high + even tension on all spokes coupled with good tolerances and practices trumps theory TIME AND TIME AGAIN. All intensely true. ATMO (in the words of the one and only Richard Sachs).
Ryan, I'm trying to make sense of the difference in lacing between rim braked and disc braked wheels. I don't see the point. In the end, there will be an equal number of spokes going in either directions on each flanges of the hub. Is there something I am missing? Why is it necessary to have all inbound spokes going in the same direction? Is it that having one side inbound and the other side outbound going the same direction will induce some "torque-steer"?
Hi ryan, I am just looking at the sapim race spokes you sell - can I just confirm if these do come threaded? I notice the image shows a threaded section but I am a little unsure. Also I am having a little trouble determining the nipple length I need - is there an optimal length?
They do indeed come threaded 👍🏻😀! Nipple length (which, remember, does not affect spoke length), can be dependent on your rim and how thick it’s spoke bed is and / or if you’re using washers. Most alloy rims without eyelets will be fine with 12mm, if you’re using washers or eyeleted rims 14mm may be required to clear the rim when truing and not scratch it with your spoke key. Some carbon rims have a very thick spike bed. Nipples which are ‘too long’ will rarely be a problem. A 14mm nipple should suit almost every use case.
They're originally a design by Johnny from the now closed Noble Wheels; some others may be available but - for reference - they're called a 'lacing stand' or 'wheel lacing jig'; a quick google might turn something up!
i wish i'd discovered your website sooner - just had a set of hunt wheels delivered and im sending them back. Shocking quality. Once i have my refund i'll be pinging you for a set :)
I have a bent carbon rim (Reynolds 29er XC). It’s undamaged. No crash. No off road use. Can anything be done to true a carbon rim? It’s the rim itself and not a spoke issue. Thanks 😊
As in you can't remove the 'bend' by truing the wheel using spoke tension? Sounds like it's kaput tbh Lance! Without seeing the whel in perosn it's hard ot know what you mean I'm afraid.
Really great video and series Ryan! I plan on tackling my first disc unicycle wheel build soon. Just curious on the different lacing needed for disc hubs - as on a visual check I don’t think my Schlumpf hubs have this spoke pattern done for them - hard to tell I guess but wondering if this approach is mostly important for bicycles, and not us single-wheelers ⚙️🙏 Cheers, Felix
The Schlumpf hubs had some particular needs that I can't quite remember right now but rest assured whatever pattern I've used is is more than capable and correct for one reason or another ;-). See my comments on Sym Vs Asym lacing in the rest of these comments too.
Thanks Ryan. I recently made my first order from you. Even though I have years of wheel building experience I have enjoyed and learned a few things from you keep up the good work.
