BTW this video is designed for newcomers with no experience in coding or electronics. There is a bunch of extra functionality you could get out of an arduino based button box (multi position switches, hat switches, mini joysticks etc) but I decided to leave that out and stick to components which are simpler to code and use
@@ivanravenski Just set the number for rotary encoders to zero at the top and remove the lines of code which refer to rotary encoders. (the bit around 24.34 in the video). However, if you are JUST using buttons (no rotary encoders or potentiometers) it will be much cheaper and easier for you to use a zero delay USB controller as described in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Kx3-JhT4X_M.html
yeah, but multipos and hat switches are little more than several buttons in one compact spot. I'm considering doing this for elite dangerous, where there's several functions that you'd never do at the same time where multipos can save space on the layout of the box in exchange for a bit more wiring on the inside.
Yes, it's a Jaycar store. Prices are high, but when you need something in a hurry, they are open seven days a week, when no one else is. As a hobbyist, I use them when needing something in a hurry or short of a component for that weekend project.
Followed your instructions exactly, I've built multiple button boxes for my flight simulator to include avionics, radios, engine controls, etc. I've probably saved at least over $1000 not buying the Logitech or Saitek equivalents of what I made for under $200. $100 for 5 Arduino Leo's + $100-ish for wood, paint, switches, etc.Thanks for keeping it simple.
@@tommyfallon7925 I used 50k Ohm linear potentiometers on one of the button boxes I built. Plenty of resolution for the function of cowl flap controls.
Much respect for providing concepts and advice rather than just a step by step of doing one thing one way. Most useful video I've seen on this subject.
A HUGE thank you from the bottom of my heart!!! You've just opened a whole new universe of possibilities in a half an hour video. This is a gem for electronics newbies like me. Thank you so much.
Finally a code that covers it all! I have been trying to blend matrix and joystick for a while. I just could not get it to work. I have no rotaries, I just commented those out and it works great!!! Thank you for the time you took to put this together !!!! You Rock!
If you want a hot tip, chat GPT can actually do most of this coding all by itself. All you need to do is tell it to write code for an arduino button box using the keypad and joystick libraries and tell it how many buttons and other components you want. That thing is scary good.
I know a little about arduinos and electronics, but I've already learned the foundation for expectations watching this. It's extremely well-thought out, lots of hints and pointers for those who are just getting introduced. I've been wanting to make my own macropad for a while but most videos I come across are specific and hardly explain the working principles. I appreciate this!
Thank you so much for this great video! With your instructions I just build a 6x6 Button Matrix with 4 rotary encoders (without a button). Thus completely filling my leonardo's pins. 2 notes on your video so as to help others. 1) You can go over 32 buttons, directx supports 128 (my new button box has 44) BUT the game itself has to support 128 buttons per controller. Not all games do. If you want to test a button box with more than 32 buttons don't use the windows default game controller, because it only supports 32 buttons. There are great third party tools like Planet pointy's Joysticktest. 2) And most important NOT ALL rotary encoder have ground on the middle pin. My encoders where not marked and I assumed that the middle pin is ground, but it was actually the right pin that was ground. If your encoder gives erratic pulses mostly on one direction, you probably have the wrong pin for ground. Do the test on one encoder beforehand to save you a lot of pain. It took me all afternoon to figure that one out. Again thank you for a great video!
Played with these in school, didn't really understand their potential until I started working in commercial/industrial HVAC/building controls. Amazing little beasties that are just as capable as their industrial cousins for 1/10-1/20 the price and open source. No very expensive licensing. Great video. Thank you for the inspirational kick for my projects. I have several "space ship" cockpit builds that I am working on. The first a playset for my young children, and the second a fighter cockpit for my space sims.
Finally a video explaining this matrix stuff on an understandable level.. Thank the lords. I had to abandon my buttonbox project because nobody really explains what the code is and where to change stuff, i will start again on it right now. Thx so much. Subscribed forever!
I just finished buidling my box and programming it using your tutorial! Excellent. This crazy box project started with me trying the simple usb plug and play controller but I wanted rotaries. I tried the hacks to see it the rotaries would work on the usb board but it wasn't consistent. I ordered a "knock off" arduino at first but them backtracked to the one in the video. PERFECT. It works with my iRacing rig quite nicely!!!! 10 of 10!!!
Thanks a lot for this code. I´m building an F-16 ICP for BMS and was watching videos learning how to use the joystick library and the keypad library for matrix buttons programming, and the code given made all the work for me on a test with the Arduino. It was an incredible break through for me on one of the areas i´m less knowledgable. Thanks again! :)
thanks heaps for your tutorial! helped me convert my a31 cef window switch to a button box, ive got the door card mounted to the wall next to my sim rig haha
I've got my wheels turning in my head, I have to give a huge appreciation to you Wim and all like you that take the time to put these helpful videos together for us, so thanks! What I meant by wheels turning, I'd like to add a key Switch on/off interrupt to disable the box when not in use or away from the sim and I see away to do that on all of the buttons that require a ground which is easy "just place a turn key switch inline before connecting gnd to the board to act as an interrupt". so when I enter the sim I turn the key to the on position thus enabling those buttons, now that being said I don't see a possible or easy way to add a second keyed interrupt to the buttons that don't require a ground. I'd just like to add more realism to the process.
@@wimwamjoey I'm looking at them now thanks, I had no idea they were an option. Another thought just came to me while sitting here, add a starter button and just interrupt that single starter button with a key switch, I think that might achieve what I'm looking for, that or just omit the starter button and use the key switch for the starter, food for thought but I think I'd like the duel method for starter.
I’m just designing my first button box and found your video. Awesome stuff. I love all the detail that you put in to enable people to make their own decisions based on what they personally need. Thank you so much! I had done quite a bit of research before I found you so I knew most of what you mentioned already, but this would have saved me lots of time and even then I still learned something new from you. Keep up the good work.
Beautiful, I not only am a newbie I considered myself as E-Dyslexic! I followed your TUT and am now well on the way to a new personalized BOX. BUT, I've connected 3 pots as shown, disabled everything but the potentiometer, and now the axis shows up but 2 of them are "in-sync" I'm guessing it's a detail on the coding modification that I probably messed up. ANYWAYS, Excellent TUT for NEWBS, Keep at it people, I've just discovered a new passion! THX a Bunch!
This is the best video out there, before I had 4 videos saved so I could learn about everything about how to code the Arduino, the electronics etc. but they had very little detail. This has everything with perfect detail and explained very well! Good Job!
Cheers bro, was chasing my head with the code of a matrix that I put diodes in. Your comments in the example helped me realise I had spent 3 hours trying to find a code error when it was actually back to front diodes :(
great video!!! I'm a bit of an electronic hobbyist and most Flight Sim button box videos use crazy expensive parts! Like I have seen videos of people using 3USD Arduino boards for a controller... I've also seen people using a 40USD ish board which was more plug and play although soldering was still required... Better just to build a whole kit or 2 for the same amount, i suppose you need to be a little more involved but its really not that hard and gives more flexibility!
Your video is a prize possession, thank you so much for taking the time to put together for us this video, I am currently building mine now and if not for this video, I'd surely be out of pocket purchasing a premade one. Thank you so much. Side note, I'm making my first box for American Truck Simulator / Euro Truck Simulator, I've added 2 push-pull switches for the breaks and Air supply along with a Key start switch among the other Buttons/Switches. I'll prob be making a second of not a third for other types of game play such as Sim Racing.
This is probably one of the better videos explaining wiring and matrixing. A Protip on coding,though. SimHUB has a click through system for programming Arduino code which makes it very easy to code for your own custom made box.
Hi Wim, just wanted to say how much I appreciated this video! I managed to build my own button box with zero prior coding experience. Great job brother, keep up the good work!
For a simple button box like this, the Leo Bodnar card will be way easier and just as effective. You only switch to Arduinos when you want the Simulator to turn on LEDs or change other hardware. Look over some of my videos, you may enjoy some of the simple projects such as adding Rotary encoders and Landing Gears :)
@@joshuamarius thx for the tip, but I made one based on arduino and its working perfectly. I did however use different arduino code as the one in this video would not work with my rotaries.
Just FYI, push buttons can share a ground for one of their terminals. The other terminal needs a dedicated pin in “INPUT_PULLUP” mode. This almost halves the number of pins needed per button, so you may not need to do that matrix trick.
Actually, you're better off with the matrix method whenever you have more than 5 buttons. For 6 buttons a 2x3 matrix is enough and uses only 5 pins instead of 6. The more buttons you have, the bigger the advantage. For 25 buttons you can use a 5x5 matrix, so only 10 pins instead of 25. And the Keypad library also has built-in debouncing. I'm not sure if this is relevant when you send the buttons straight to the Joystick library, but if you want to use the button inside your code to switch modes you should have some form of debouncing. If you want to reduce the number of pins required even further, you may want to look into shift registers. They are quite cheap, only need four pins (or three for some models), and you can daisy-chain them getting 8 inputs per register (still needing only three or four pins per chain). I'm currently redesigning my button box with shift registers because I need to free up some pins so it can also handle my pedals and gear shifter that are currently handled by the steering wheel I am going to replace at some point.
@@panicpetes7676 This makes total sense if you're optimizing for number of pins. But if you've got the pins spare, a "one pin per button" approach seems much simpler to me, and in many cases that would be "better" overall. Wouldn't you agree?
@@aaaidan I do agree that the wiring is much simpler if you connect the buttons directly, but as you said it would reduce the number of pins used in your original comment, I thought I'd clarify that this depends on the number of buttons you want to use. Also, in my experience, these projects tend to grow over time, so I'd recommend to use as few pins as possible in the beginning. I started with a rather simple button box (7 push buttons, 3 momentary on-off-on toggle switches, 3 rotary encoders and one pot). Later I added a DIY handbrake using a load cell and HX711 amplifier, so I needed two more digital pins. And as already hinted in my previous comment, I am now using the same Arduino to also handle my Logitech G25 pedals (+3 analog pins) and gear shifter (+2 analog and +3 digital pins).
@@panicpetes7676 You're right - choosing the right approach depends on several factors. In the pinned comment it says "this video is designed for newcomers with no experience in coding or electronics", and I hope to convince you here that this is _the_ most important factor. My hunch is that for many folk (especially those beginning electronics) using the minimum possible number of pins is just not very important, especially when their board probably has plenty to spare. The matrix approach is a powerful (and delightful) concept to introduce to beginners. But it also acts as additional barrier to entry - an unnecessary one - because a first project is unlikely to run out of pins. Using a matrix takes more effort to learn, and extra time (and testing) to build correctly. There are also more points of potential failure. It could easily be the difference between an enthusiastic young person finishing their first project or not. Or even starting out in the first place. As experts, it's incredibly hard for us to keep perspective on how far we've come in our journeys, and almost impossible to "simulate" how much more effort everything is as a beginner. For these reasons, I strongly recommend folk start out with "pullup+ground" pins until there are no more pins available, before investing in mitigations (like a matrix) that add complexity. This basic approach still allows a dizzying variety of exciting and useful _first projects_ to build. If a project outgrows the pin count, simply switching to the matrix wiring at that point would be a fun and satisfying optimization/workaround. People often are most motivated, and learn best, when they're solving a clear and present problem. Depending on factors, I'd even suggest considering just solving the pin problem by buying another board with more pins, or even using a separate I/O chip (like a multiplexer or I2C expander). Perhaps this seems wasteful or unsophisticated to some experts. but I hope we can agree that it's more important to draw beginners in to the fascinating and joyful world of electronics, than to insist on best practices from the very start. What do you think?
@@aaaidan I fully agree with everything you wrote - when starting a project from scratch. In this case however, with a full code provided I think it is far easier for beginners to adapt the existing code to their project (as it is described quite well in the video) than to rewrite the whole button section.
I want to thank you for the amazing information you provide to your viewers. This is fascinating material. I appreciate all of your efforts. Many thanks!
1st THANKS. So well explained, and me and the mrs have been saying "button" in a Kiwi accent non stop - it makes us smile a lot 🙂 2nd, when you tell it how many "buttons" you have, if your matrix is missing a button, like yours is, and mine is (mins is a 4x3, with the top right corner missing one button), still tell it you have as many buttons as the matrix "could" have - or it'll not show the last button/s working in Windows. I put "11" in the code, and then windows didn't see my last button in the matrix because as far as it's concerned, that is button "12" and my code said I only have 11.
Really appreciate this video Wim - your step by step has given me a better understanding of the programming and pin outs. I've been making steering wheels for the G27 and I wanted to increase the pots and switches. Your breakdown has helped me realise this is possible. Coupled with an AMstudio tute I can hopefully easily add a joystick control on the wheel for going through the menus. Once again cheers mate.
Finaly got it to work. Did some stupid mistakes on the way. First i did not see that is was not working on a Uno, Then i forgot to correct the number of rows of buttons And the last thing was a crap usb cable that only had power.
Thank you so much for going through the code in this video!!! I'm new to Arduino and have been trying to understand the code that amstudios includes with their design guides but couldn't find anything to explain what they had done. I feel confident now in proceeding to design and make my own box now! Thank you!
Great Great Great video. You are great at explaining how to use a Arduino. The only thing I did not like was this is the only video on this topic. Please make some more videos on arduinos and building things. You are great at it. I am a new subscriber. Great job.
Always love a good kiwi tutorial!! We're all about getting to the point 😅 Super useful info, best vid so far for sure (and I swear that's not just me being biased).
Thanks for the video. I had first seen the other video of the ButtonBox that came at the beginning and loaded the code there. In your video I understood what was being programmed in the Ardoino IDE.
i got to this video and in the first 33 seconds you laid out every frustration i was having with trying to find info on this. i could kiss you on the mouth
Just a tip for anyone here new to soldering / projects like this: USE SMALL PERF BOARD(S) FOR THE POTENTIOMETERS, it is so much easier to solder wires together when you have an actual platform to do so. Also makes installing the components easier within the box itself imo The reason I say use a perf board is because I was having a nightmare of a time wiring my two potentiometers correctly, wiring two tiny wires for each the 3.3v and GRND pins was a nightmare and causing me issues (I must have burnt through 3 or 4 of them just soldering terribly on them, the arduino spits out random data from the output when you do it wrong, making the axises EXTREMELY innaccurate (obviously)). If you have encoders with no pin out board, I would also recommend a perf board for those, thankfully mines had them which was just plug and play with the arduino cables I had. My box is still ongoing, buying a larger enclosure as my current one was a bit too small (realised I needed a leonardo for the extra pins, when previously I was going to use a pro micro) and waiting on better buttons, do not buy the tiny tacile ones, big mistake on my part.
Nice Video, I happened to have just finished a button box last week and I followed Amstudios vid also, but I never understood what all the coding does. And after watching this video I feel I understand a lot more that's going on and changes I can now make, Thanks man, Ps I did use toggle switches and found out about ghosting big time, haha. Fun to learn new things though
I just finished my Cessna Throttle with the help of this video for the Arduino control as it was very popular in the flight sim groups. was asked to make a guide and in the Arduino section, i linked your youtube vid as it's so clear and easy to follow. hope this helps with views on your video, cheers Kris
Hi man!! I'm trying to use some toggle switches (with lights) but I am a bit confused on how to use / connect them. Mines have POWER - ACC - GROUND pins. I guess Power goes to 5v and ground to ground so I end up having ACC. That way , the switches are "out of the matrix" as only the columns are connected to different inputs but the row instead of going to a normal input, it goes into the 5V input.... How do you make them work? Thanks!
Amazing video - well explained! For anyone put off by the coding, I recommend the Leo Bodnar BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board. It requires no coding - all you do is wire up potentiometers, buttons, switches however you want. Then when you plug it into a PC, windows recognises it as a universal controller with no drivers or coding needed. 8 x analog inputs, a 4-way hat and 32 button inputs. Ive subscribed - I hope you do more flight sim diy stuff!
@@comet2164 No, Leo Bodnar needs different wiring and you can't make a button matrix work with them (as far as I'm aware), so this video won't help with that. There are some good instructional videos on how to make Leo Bodnar boards on RU-vid and you can also ask for help on their forums. Also, keep in mind that those boards are often significantly more expensive than Arduino.
Cheers mate! I'm looking at remaking and upgrading my button box so will probably do a new video on that, plus a DIY video on building a basic sim-pit out of an office chair.
Massive thank you for this step by step guide ! My prototype works perfectly on the first try, i just have to ptint a little box to fit all those cables and it will be good to go.
Thanks a lot, I made my own button box and it works amazing, I have 2 encoders and 28 buttons and I use it for Iracing, I wish I could send you a picture!!!!!!
Hello Wim, OK well I had hit a stumble in the road, after two days for working on the box, I had completed it yesterday evening 4/3/23 so after connecting the board to PC it was not recognized, so after time of trouble shooting I gave up and went to bed, this morning I had a fresh start, I found that I had purchased the wrong board, the board I purchased was the ATmega328P in which after downloading and installing the drivers for it, Device Manager was happy with it, only still not showing up in the game controller so I then found out that this 328P does not support HID "Human Interface Device". I'm back to start again but now I know which board I need, it's a learning experience. The board I believe that I should have purchased would be the ATmega32U4 and not the 328P. Note, I had already purchased the board before finding your video, I just assumed they were all the same, not the case, they are different and it matters which board you use. I received in my mail box yesterday the exact board you're demoing in this video, my question is will it support 15 momentary, (including 3 2-way toggle switchs), 4 rotary and 3 Potentiometers? a total of 25 in all. Thanks
I too learned from his video. I have 30 buttons, 4 pots and a spare pin left if that helps.( I set the buttons up on a 6x5 matrix (11 pins), 4 pots on A0-A3.) Note: an on-on toggle counts as 2 buttons. Tinkercad is a great place to test build a matrix. Good luck
I am making a button box for DCS Flight Sim (A10C 2). I want nothing more complex than switches be they On-Off or momentary push buttons. I have completed all tasks as you have described in construction up to the wiring and tested out the bare wire switching to each individual switch using continuity for the matrix as designed. My matrix comprises 5 rows and 6 columns comprising purely on-off toggle switches (22 off) and monetary push buttons (7 off). Rows wires (5 0ff) are connected to an Arduino Nano - pins A0 .... A4. Columns wires (6 off ) are connected to D3....D8, so I am confident that the construction phase can be put to bed as completed successfully, following testing of every individual button and switch continuity. After connecting the Arduino through USB to my PC, this is where my troubles start. It only shows up as an "unspecified item" in my control panel instead of under the "Devices" collection. It shows as connected through Port_#0012.Hub_#0001 (I presume this is because my USB connector from the Arduino Nano was connected to a 7 Multiport Plug) which was automatically allocated. Right-clicking on the device does not show "Game Controller Settings" as my Hotas Warthog Throttle/Joystick and CH Pro Pedals show, so no way of testing the switching as shown in your video using the red light matrix to prove each switch. When right-clicking one of my "installed Devices" I only see The Warthog and CH Pro items listed as in the box at 26min 42secs. It seems almost as though despite following your instructions allocating pins and coding the Arduino successfully, whilst it uploads and verifies, it is not seen as installed. I have no doubt I am doing something wrong somewhere but being a 70-year-old "Noob" I can't figure out where. Is the port right? Is my programme right, I just haven't a clue over something that so many claim is basic and straightforward. Can you or anyone else Pleeeeease HELP??
Hey Wim. What should i do if i want to add buttons outside the matrix? I need this because i have LEDS on my switches and buttons which need to be off until pushed. This can only be done if one pin is closed obviously so a matrix isn't a possibility for those. I also have no idea how to integrate a seperate button code into this sketch.
Something that I found recently that can save alot for those not comfortable with coding is FreeJoy library on github, it uses a STM32F103 (blue pill) instead and has a windows UI to setup what buttons. encoders , pots, hall effect sensors etc are conntected to what pin etc. Excellent tutorial though. A tip for those wanting to create one try getting ribbon cable I find that helps so much with avoiding a crows nest inside the box.
Oh custom controls for flight simmers? Nice work! Inspired me to make my own with only the microcontroller in C. Thanks for explaining the code. Check six!
A question, and apologies if it's been asked. While a grid gives the highest number of buttons for the number of pins... what about running one wire across all the buttons and then giving an individual wire for the other post. So "directly wired" = 2 pins per button. "grid" = 2x (root of buttons) : so 4 pins gets you 4 buttons, 6 pins gets you 9 buttons, 8 pins gets you 16 buttons. "half grid" (what I'm asking about) = CountOfButtons + 1 pins That would seem to resolve the "several buttons pressed at once" issue of the matrix as there would be a unique single pin for each button.. or am I missing something. Expanded. Direct wired. Button 1 = pin 1 + 2 Button 2 = pin 3 + 4 etc Expanded. Grid Button 1 = pin 1 + 3 Button 2 = pin 2 + 3 Button 3 = pin 1 + 4 Button 4 = pin 2 + 4 etc Expanded. Half Gird Button 1 = pin 1 + 2 Button 2 = pin 1 + 3 Button 3 = pin 1 + 4 Button 4 = pin 1 + 5
Sure, you could do that (effectively its still a matrix but with only one row), however as you say: its an inefficient use of pins which you might want for other components like encoders and pots. If you just wanted a button box with a small number of buttons you'd be much better off using a zero delay joystick encoder which is cheaper than an arduino and doesn't require any coding.
I would HIGHLY suggest using either alligator clips or some other non-soldering method to check everything works in the board wiring wise, that way when you fuck up (cause you will) the amount of time redoing everything is as simple as clipping the buttons and unplugging the leads.
Awesome! Just a suggestion - regular retouching or vector graphics softwares are not a good choice, Fritzing is definitely times better for sketching electronic appliances. Congrats for the great video!
It's only the mechanical rotary encoders that need a debounce. No one debounces their mouse (and no, I don't mean the buttons). Pots don't have 360 degree rotation, but that's just me being a pedantic percy.
Amazing video, I'm making a button box based on amstudio's video too and was kinda bumped out that there was no potentiometer functionality, not any more 😁
In this build for encoders to work they have to be 30 pole ones i tried 24 pole and nothing. Switched to 30 pole like you did use i in the build and now it works lik a charm.
Wonderful instructions, This is great job of explaining to a noob. I have however run into a snag. My Rotary encoders have 5 pins as do yours, but my pins are labeled GRD,+,SW,DT and CLK. Ground and one side of the switch are the same potential. Can I use these or do I need another style of Encoder?
I believe the gnd goes to ground, dt and clk are the left and right turning terminals, + and sw get hooked into your button matrix. I would run a test on this first though before you solder anything too permanently
Alternatively, if you look carefully at your encoder, you will probably find it is actually exactly the same as mine (three terminals on one side, two on the other). It has just had those terminals rerouted through a small pcb (the plastic base bit). If you want, you could probably desolder it from the pcb and use the terminals as shown in the video. It might give you a bit more space inside your enclosure but it can be a little fiddly to do.
i know it's an old video but i really appreciated it, thank youy very much man, i only have one question: i dont get how are the buttons supposed to work if none of its pins are plugged in
The buttons are connected to the pins of the arduino by the matrix. It's just that instead of having 2 pins per button, all the buttons are sharing a smaller number of pins.
@@wimwamjoey oh yeah I got it, but if the digital pins are giving 5 volts then the analogs are working as ground for the matrix? Otherwise where should the 5 volts go?
Yeah I have the same question. Are all of the voltages floating? I don't see and pull up resistors or pull down resistors. I know you can set some digital pins to be pulled up through software but I just don't see how the analog pins can get a voltage reading when they're connected to an open wire. Wouldn't the signal just be noise?
I don't actually know (I cribbed this together from various articles and videos, I'm not that experienced with arduino) but I expect the answer is that it's all handled through the keypad library, not in the code you can see in IDE.
Yes, it's all handled by the keypad library. They use the pullup resistors integrated into the board. It actually makes no difference if you use analog or digital pins for this, as all analog pins can also work as digital ones. If anyone is interested in the programming, you can check the source code of the keypad library here (the pin write/read operations start at line 83): github.com/Chris--A/Keypad/blob/master/src/Keypad.cpp#L83
Overall great video, but there are a couple of inaccuracies that I wanted to correct for the sake of people new to electronics and Arduino: 1. 5:40 You can't use an Arduino UNO for this task, only a Leonardo or Pro Micro. The UNO's chip doesn't support the HID functionality that allows the Leonardo or Pro Micro to appear as a Joystick or Keyboard when connected to a computer. 2. 6:33 When a momentary button is connected directly to the Arduino (without a button matrix) it only requires a SINGLE Arduino pin - the other connection goes to either GND or VCC (Just like the momentary button on the encoder - it is exactly the same). To make life easier without going into too much detail, you should connect it to GND, and define it in the Arduino code as pinMode(the-pin-to-which-you-connected-the-button, INPUT_PULLUP); And one more tip - instead of using a drawing app to make your diagram, you would be much better off using a dedicated app such Fritizing, which is completely free and super simple to use. This would make it much easier to draw your schematics, and would also result in a much nicer looking product.
Argh yes, thanks for those corrections. Had a brain fart for both those points. I'm not sure Fritzing actually is free? They ask for at least 8 euro on their website but maybe there is a workaround I'm not aware of.
@@wimwamjoey I actually installed Fritzing through the chocolatey package manager (highly recommended tool to manage all software on windows). However, you can also download it manually using this link: fritzing.org/download/0.9.3b/windows-64bit/fritzing.0.9.3b.64.pc.zip
Thank you very much for the tip about the Uno otherwise I would have thinking and searching my ass off. I was just about starting to build a test setup for myself using this video but now I know it has no use as my boards here are all uno's :) Thank you for saving me time and frustration :)
@@wimwamjoey I believe if you create an account, the option to download becomes visible without needing to donate. Something along those lines. I don't know if the workaround still works but it definitely used to.
Ok worked after a few goes. Once I worked out where to put .h files (create libraries). But only first of 3 rotaries worked initially. Then remembered you note about the first rotary MUST be on pins 0 and 1. My board didnt have a 0 and 1.. So I added a fake rotary to the code as 11st of 4 on 0 and 1 and now all 3 ACTUAL rotaries work. Hope that may help someone. Everything else worked first time :) Thanks for a very useful video.
Hey there. I just got my arduino nano and was wondering the same why i didnt have any 0 and 1. Thanks for mentioning it! How did you make a fake rotary? just two blind wires?
Aakshewallly, potentiometers typically only turn from 270 to 330 degrees. There are multi-turn trimmer potentiometers, (which typically turn 3600 degrees, or 10 turns) but you need a tiny screwdriver to adjust those. No knobs here.
