I agree, I'm pissed watched specifically to see the end product with the landscaping all put back...whats the point of this? what does it look like finished? Thanks for wasting 10 minutes of my life Odell
I did this to planting areas on the front of my house. No wood to rot and replace, no plastic that breaks. 10 years on the concrete border and still looking good. I will use your radius corners method when I do the back yard, makes mowing so easy. I also used a better grade of bagged concrete as well, worth every buck. I also like the trick of cutting down the edger! Thanks for the info!
You guys put out some great material. I’ve learned so much from your videos. They’ve given me the confidence to tackle all my home landscaping projects; 10’x18’ shed concrete slab, 30’ CMU planter bed, curved retaining wall, driveway patch, sprinkler/sod installation, and more to come. The professional tips you provide on methods and tool selection have been so helpful in giving me long lasting results.
I learn alot from Sir David as well,...he teaches people the DIYer's easy solutions that can be done without to much effort.!!! Thanks Again Sir David Odell
You spray motor oil on the forms?? I'm surprised you don't ever have issues with overspray and plant death. That stuff is really toxic for vegetation. Is this an idustry standard practice? NOTE: Not trying to come off as a jerk. Genuinely curious.
Motor oil has the potential to travel long distances, and eventually makes its way into waterways in the form of runoff. Once it reaches waterways, used motor oil is toxic to plants and animals living in the water, and its film can impair natural processes, such as oxygen replenishment and photosynthesis. Used motor oil can also pollute soil and drinking water. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, 1 gallon of used motor oil can contaminate 1 million gallons of fresh water. If used motor oil reaches sewage treatment plants, even small amounts -- 50 to 100 parts per million -- can foul the water treatment process. Soil becomes less productive when exposed to used motor oil.
odell complete concrete We can't do curbing like that here in Maine, we have too many freeze/thaw cycles in the Winter. I wish we could, it's a great idea! Nice Video
Im in Canada, thé winters are brutal and I honestly love you channel, I’ve been learning a lot and some of your technique have withstood our crazy winters
Starting to think RU-vid is reading my mind, was just talking an hour ago in the garden about this as our wood edging is all rotten, next thing this vid is on the home page! Excellent job and very helpful, thank you for posting, All the best from the UK. Subscribed!
I'm glad i found this video. I'm wanting to do something similar, but with a bit more depth and the concrete formed to run the lenth of a fence. My idea is I'm wanting to put up a privacy fence, and have concrete poured out inbetween each post in a similar fashion like you've done in this video to deter my dogs from digging out. Any suggestions on how deep and wide you'd recommend while taking considerations for times of the year when frost is prevelent?
One piece of feedback, why not use a level instead of a block to level your form? If you're going to go to the effort of leveling, why not use a level? Just wanted to share that thought...
I just have a couple of questions, because the curb is only 3.5" deep, do you have to use rebar? Also, the spacers that are used for the radius, did you leave those in there? Thanks!
This is exactly what i was looking for. Didn't realize it was called a mow strip. I'm looking for some pointers. I want to build a wood fence with this underneath connecting the posts together for the length of my fence. Yard is about 100x50. That way when i put my fence kick plate down, no animals can get underneath, or grass growing under the fence. My ground is very wet most of the year. I live in S. Louisiana, and it's a low area. I dont know how this would affect such a long, narrow stretch of concrete. Love you videos. Lots of great info.
So when building this type of mow strip you don;t need to compress screenings for the base or add rebar for strength? Is this true of all curbs mow strips?
cooking oil would have been better with the grass and plants about , i did a big job recently and all the crane hydraulics were filled with fish oil in case of hose bursts , it was installing a big water turbine in a sssi zone.
as someone that likes concrete, and uses it in their work every once-in-a-while, I really like your commentary of why you are doing, or how you achieved your work. It helps in the work flow confidence in my future projects.
David, about this method of constructing a concrete mowing edge, There is no stabilization of the beam below ground level and it rests on top of the soil, albeit below lawn level on the lawn side. I presume that gravel chips/other material will be used to stabilize it from the other side, as the video concludes with the form work still in place? For any above soil level concrete beams, I would have installed at least one central 6mm rebar along the entire length of the edge and driven 10mm rebar rods into the soil to 20cm depth every 2.5m or so. This to prevent any possible cracking along the course. The cost would have been marginal but garanteed the product over 20 years. However, I still prefer a mowing edging constructed from face brick set on a 100mm concrete foundation of 25mpa. In this case the final edging is built on a concrete foundation set 10cm below soil level and does not require any reinforcing. After the foundation is floated, the bricks are simply positioned 'edge to edge' onto the foundation using a cement/water paste. This is incredibly strong and all one needs is a builders line for managing alignment. Once perfected, this method is very quick. It does not require the installation and de-installation of any form work and is far less labour intensive. For me, using a clay face brick is a far stronger and attractive solution and I have a personal dislike for painted contrete
Really like your videos. A nice enhancement would be to revisit the job sites once they are complete and "grown in" to show your contributions and the end beauty. If you were in Southwest FL, I would contract with you. First class!
@assassinlexx As a big proponent of gravel underneath concrete, and other ideals, I really don't think this particular job needs anything special. Yeah maybe it'll crack in 20 years. I bet it won't crack before year 6 tho.
you might want to use a way less toxic oil like vegetable or sesame or anything that is not motor oil or used motor oil because you are polluting that yard and the soil. What if someone plants veggies and herbs there not knowing what you did? You could also paint the boards to preserve them. SMH nice job otherwise
What's the point? Other than the flowers and the bushes which need the borders, the area between the walkway and the driveway will still get weeds and tall grass that will grow in their unless you lay down a mortar flooring, then fill it in with the rock.
We are having big issues with concrete here in Northwest Indiana. My Father is in a battle with his contractor. Contractor blaming severe pitting on road salt........but then there are huge cracks far away from the roadway that cannot be blamed on salt.......too lengthy to explain but there are multiple issues going on. They poured in the winter, something happened obviously, it's not the sale. By the way, they blamed the cracks on "settling" even though it was only less than two years from pour.
Thank you very much for the video. Wish we could have seen the final product without the molding. Also I had a couple question. I noticed that some stakes were in the inside rather then outside as most of them were. Any particular reason? Other question was about towards the end of the video when you made a line every 4 feet or so to divide the sections. How deep did you go in with the tool ??? THANK YOU AGAIN !!!!
I really appreciate the video. My wife and I want to do this between ours and the neighbor’s house and we’ve never done this. Hiring a company is hard because most have a minimum and a small job like this is not worth their time. You really explained it well.
Would a single rebar help to prevent cracking or push up in the future? I enjoy learning from your videos! Thanks for your effort and time producing them.
Nice job... I'm thinking of doing something similar on a smaller scale, I live in New your state, where we have pretty harsh winters... And advice on how deep I should go to prevent heaving from the frost? Thanks...
Are you the guy resting on the shovel? You'd be the type to say "we". Ive dug ditches with the best and we never said "we". Great instructional! Appreciated! 👍
I know homeowners want what they want. Had it been me? Instead of that loose stone between the slabs I would have had the contractor put concrete back in between. Poured in place with pea gravel instead of crushed stone in the mix, then before curing brush/water off the loose paste to give you an exposed stone finish. No tripping for the ladies wearing high heels, and no putting the stones back in place by homeowner. Win/Win.
im in the process of doing entire driveway my concrete guy wants to do the borders first than come a different day to pour the remaining slab and stamping it. Im skeptical of having different pours id prefer one pour for a stronger bond. what are the draw backs and should i go with different pours. whats your take on this dave???? pls help anyone should i fire and rehire someone else?
I hope we have someone in North Florida who does this nicely because I plan a moving border and (on another vid) a fence base. Tired of rotting bottoms on my wooden fences.
Never heard of anyone using motor oil. Thats a first for me. No one crys about that staying in the soil? Looks good i like the smaller slabs with the rock around it.
Hey david, I am doing a 6" wide x 5" deep x 35' long strip between me and my neighbors yard. Do you recommend I cut down 1/2" or 1/4 plywood for the forms? Thanks in advance for your time
I am trying to figure out if you left the the one by two small cross braces in the bender board forms. I didn’t see any removed and I’m just curious. Thanks for sharing, I learned a lot and think I could do my own.
How can I calculate the concrete that I need for a similar job thank you. This are my measurements 41 feet length x 12inches width x 6 inches thickness Thanks
This video is dope but dude you gotta take the audio seriously with this many views. There is a low tone drag on the voiceover on this that is driving me nuts. Thank you for the video though
I always watch Odell’s projects for good tips I’ve definitely learned a lot from his videos and I use them in my business can’t go wrong with this guy he knows his stuff
