What a great video, mate! Thanks for sharing all your work, there was lots of sweat into this build. I'll be building mine pretty soon and you've cleared a lot of questions I had. There is just one thing that might make your build stronger: When cutting and assembling the wood, If you rest the top plate on top of the side and back plates you get a lot more support for your fan and filters. Instead of fixing the top plate flush on the inside of the 3 sides, you could use the sides as columns to support your "ceiling". That way, if your screws somehow fail, the top plate won't slide down into the box, it will be held by the side and back plates. Oh, and that bottom back plate was a killer move! Amazing build, mate!
I work in a cleanroom, the whole thing is designed like this, it's pretty trippy. I appreciate that you always show your mistakes and learnings, and always knew you were an engineer, didn't realize you're a bit of a scientist too!
Dude! You’ve been reading my mind lately all your videos have come exactly when I need them! serious are you listening to my conversations?? Haha. Awesome content as always!
Thank you. You convinced me to build my own hood. Construction is starting Monday-Tuesday when all supplies arrive. This will be perfect for my grow office!!!
I watched your fascinating ginger project then saw this laminar flow video. It’s not even a topic I’m interested in but you hooked me and I watched the whole thing! You have so many great ideas here. Thank you for sharing the good plus the mistakes.
Thought myself about trying to build one of these so many times over the years. When I’ve looked into it several times before I was genuinely surprised that there wasn’t more content/info out from people DIYing their own. Thanks for working out everything and sharing it with us! This is really helpful. :)
I loved the video. I bought the same anemometer, not ideal. I love you showing the trials and tribulations. Awesome. I followed the Gordo Tek. But i will do another one and follow your design. It's really nice.
Dude i've been putting off DIY'ing this for like 2 years because the amount of research involved in finding out what amount of flow is required or strength of fan is so complex, appreciate this vid so much
Nice work my man!!! One commentary: the use of a flexible alluminum duct will induce turbulent flow after the ventilator, maybe using a rectngular duct would enhance results.
Well done Hooch thanks so much for sharing it with us. I saw a similar video last night and the guy added an acrylic sheet across the top at a 33 degree angle which cuts down any outside contaminants being sucked into the hood area.
I would take away the pre-filters on top or get a low resistant one. Then you need to adjust the speed of the fan, ie airflow, until the flow get laminar, that means no flickering of the flame at all, flame should be stable in a 45 degree angle and not move at all. Its usually lower airflow that you would guess. You can get a particle counter if you want to be absolute sure you hit the right flow for it to get laminar.
Not that its perfect math, but having the ability to take this and double it to increase the width of the box and doubling the filters/fans its really nice. I will be using this design and adding some recessed lights to it since Im not a window fan. For doing mushroom bags it would be nice to have a bit more area to work with to have things staged.
Awesome design, even better was how everything fit together! But you do know that not everyone has a 3D printer right. It would have been nice to have a link of aftermarket parts or a material list from a manufacturer to source collars or adapters from. Anyway great job!
Nice project, can't wait to see it evolve. That fan is way over-priced at $200. You can build one from a used shop-vac motor, grinder or drill and a cheap fan that'll move +700 CFM easily for $25. speed controllers cost $10.
Just a heads up. You can over-blow your filters and force particulates out/through. I had to go digging in the manufacturers website but I did find the max CFM per square inch for mine. I run .3m/s myself as I feel that this is better as the air has a greater chance of depositing any contaminants in the filter. Not to mention my lamp isn't in gale force wind lol.
I was worried about that. Trying to flame sterilisation in a hurricane. You can get it to work with blowtorch sterilisation, but imagine the costs you'd run up versus a little alcohol lamp... I already have one of those blowtorches but those little bottles aren't cheap unless you get the magical fitting that refills them from 10lb bottles.
Fantastic Video! I'm going to add this to my short list of projects. I just recently picked up a cheap still air box, but it wasn't overly pleasant to use. This setup would be perfect.
Thanks Hoocho, going to be super useful for my mushroom cultivation! Always had contamination issues when going from grain spawn to bulk substrate. This may help in future
You can use liquid nails, or wood glue to get a good seal between the joints in addition to the screws. Silicone will most likely work, but won't hold up as long! So long as you arent trying to disassemble it.
This one looks more practical than the last build i saw. What is the height of the finished hood? I have a low ceiling. And are you still happy with the end result?
Excellent DIY mate , very simple to make , thank goodness no 3D printing required , I don’t own one , not everyone does , box easy to make a 8” fan 2 filters for above it and the flow filter below and some perspective , easy as , will have to see the costs for filters and fan the main costs think , very doable thanks for sharing mate , liked and subscribed , another Ozzie 👍
Why not rubber tubing between the filters. Just tape up the ends so they meet and you won't have to mess with the tape on the filters themselves. If you limit the ammount of space the air can get through with a glass pane you can run the fan slower for less noise.
Very informative. Watching you receive that filter that was a few inches shy of fitting up against the top of the cabinet, I wonder if that top "flange"/"strip" would then cause outside air to come in along the top of the cabinet and mix with your filtered air. So, looking in retrospect, would you adjust the height of the cabinet, and make the height lower so that it fits that filter exactly?
I wonder why the HEPA filter isn't used as a prefilter on the commercial ones. Seems like a good way to go to me. I also wonder if the original fan would have worked if there were more HEPA prefilters to reduce the resistance. (ps. I've been watching hoochos for ages. I didn't realise you had this channel too! nice work mate.)
Love the fact that this is all made from stuff I should be able to get locally.. Would it be overkill to make one of these so I can replace the protective screen cover on my phone without getting cat fur under it?
I'd be worried in longer term about contaminants growing in high pressure box behind the MERV filter. Probably not a big deal, but there isn't good way to disinfect that area in your current design. Maybe adding small pluggable hole that you can put UV lamp in and disinfect it with light every now and then?
THEORETICALLY it shouldn't get anything but we all know theoretics isn't reality. Especially becauseofhow any condensed water leads to stuff growing. I thought he could just open up the rectangular filter and do a wipe down with alcohol inside there.
I'm just about to replicate the build. I'm curious as to what UV lamp you would recommend. Great idea. I've also added a LED strip lite (Arlec, Bunnings, 3m, $29.98) and plan to run around and test different layouts for optimal minimum shadowing when working. I'll add a powerboard, so the whole flow hood has only one plug to the mains whilst provisioning for future power requirements. E.g. beside it I plan to have my Instant Pot pressure cooker and a magnetic stirrer. So that means a minimum 5 outlet board (Fan, UV Light, Working LED light, Pressure Cooker, Magnetic Stirrer). So six outlet powerboard. This will be mounted on the top right side as one doesn't want anything on the back for maximum bench space.
@@benjamindaniels UV light is a different beast. I meant Ultraviolet C - very short wave UV that's *really* harmful to anything that lives, including you (and, in particular, eyesight). It's kind of dangerous thing to handle, so what you'd need to do is to enclose it completely within the chamber under the filter and run it when you're not in the room. Good way to sterilize spaces if handled correctly
Word to the wise - most if not all of the vacuum and AC "HEPA filters" are not actually the medical grade filters you're in need of for this to work correctly. Is it better than nothing? You bet. Is it going to give you 70% + success rate? No bet. You'd almost be just as well off with a standing flame from an alcohol lamp as with this setup and it's a LOT cheaper. (Notice how I said "almost" there?) 65% success rate for $250 or 55% success rate for $25.
Hey there are rectangular and square HEPA filters too. It’s weird how he says hepa like it’s a style, it’s a rating and if he used the wrong filter then he could have just used the right filter for $20 more. That’s the thing it doesn’t really matter where the filtration happens as long as you let the air go through the proper rated filters and the air stays consolidated until it gets to the laminar flow section. But it’s still much better to have the filter be the last part because microbes could hide inside the box. I’m sure you could sterilize it and it would be fine but it would definitely risk a few contaminations and besides it works way better anyways
As stated before but lost in the comments, the lighter dancing around indicates eddies. Gordotek describes this well also its been suggested wingds and top could make turbulence, looks nice tho
What about the airflow at the top when air was sucked into the hood from the fron, so from the wrong direction. Did the new filter and fan resolve that?
a link for the prefilters would be awesome Also it doesn't appear that you're going to be able to change out your primary filter? correct me if I'm wrong but that would be a lot of work to not be able to replace the filter
Hello, there is no need to apply silicone between the HEPA filter frame and the walls of the box and the countertop you are working on? Do you have an alternative for someone who doesn't have a 3D printer to mount the fan to the box? Thanks for the video, great job!
Hey mate love your videos, been following your main channel for ages. I'm wanting to get started in tissue culture and curious from where you are sourcing your culture media and supplies in australia?
Flick me an email on “contacthoocho@gmail.com” I’ll send you my order form for the lab supplier I got it from. I’m gunna include it in my initial video but I’m happy to send it to you ahead of time
problem i see with these fans are they are fans and dont work well with resistance- the rpms are cut by more than half blowing out nothing- when you could just get a strong centrifugal fan - possibly a floor dryer thats pushing 1200 cfm---- if its too strong just vent the flow
Ahaha yeah bro, I’m in a steamer at the moment. It’s chilly. Nothing compared to what you’re dealing with though. Just did a dive off rainbow beach on Saturday. Content incoming.
@@AllTheGear-NoIdea hell yeah, I plan to drive up the coast to the top one time and do a bunch of diving along the way. The 5mm open cell basically stops any cold water getting in. The face is the only bit that is frozen.
How do you know you are actually achieving laminar flow? The flame tests you did seemed unclear to me and the video I first saw on making a laminar flow hood used a particulate detector to confirm laminar flow and sterility (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lInfdAVvBts.html&pp=ygUXTGFtaW5hciBmbG93IGhvb2QgYnVpbGQ%3D). So your design is very nice but I'm not 100% confident it is a truly sterile environment (as sterility is hard to be 100% confident in). Also in that same video the infinity fan you talked about is linked for the video above at $68 NZD but you cited a NZD 238.63 fan as cheaper... Is there any chance you could clarify for me how you can be confident you are achieving laminar flow and also explain to me why you chose the more expensive fan while saying it is cheaper? Would really appreciate a response so I can be confident in trying this build myself.
I really appreciate all the work you put into this, but that is not laminar flow. That DIY filter nor that K&N filter are going to provide laminar flow, and that plenum is not the correct dimensions, nor does it have baffles. There is a very specific 12" thick filter with embedded straws that provides laminar flow, and there is a lot of math to match the fan/filter/baffles/plenum that still need to be spot on even if you were to attain the proper filter. Now, I would like to iterate that I am not shitting on your design, not in the least, quite the opposite actually. Looks like a pretty decent method to filter air, and I adore that your "laminar flow hood" has an actual hood! You get extra points for that my guy! Almost zero videos claiming to be flow hoods actually have an actual hood... Overall, I grade this a B+. Although it doesnt provide actual laminar flow, laminar flow is not needed for mycology, just clean somewhat steady filtered air to blow across your work surface. If you are utilizing this tool for electronics repair, I am ignorant as to whether or not laminar flow is actually needed for that purpose, I suppose it is not a strict requirement for this purpose either. You get better than a passing grade, especially because you implemented an actual hood in the design!!
Yeah I also left a comment above asking how he can be confident in his laminar flow. Do you know of any better resources for a DIY flow hood? Having trouble with being confident in other tutorials as well.
@@WhiteBeardHashtag1205 For mycology. Thanks for the response I think I'm gonna move away from a laminar flow hood and give BBFFU or a still air box a go.
@@vitamin9165 I would suggest the BBFFU. SABs are quite restrictive of movement, and you normally have to sit to use them, and long periods of that can be hard on the back. Best of luck to you
Your flow is powerful but that isn't the point of laminar flow! Your plenum design is all jacked up, the lighter flame should be constant without flickering or dancing at all. The air can be as filtered if you want but if it isn't laminar the edges will draw in contaminants and also the filter can get too much force and things will shoot through.
@@mauriciogarcia5920 tight. yet another video of a turbulent flow food. that's what this planet truly needs. just buy a FFU if you can't properly design a plenum ez pz
@@Milkex There's various degrees of right before it goes into turbulent flow. I'll demonstrate this by pouring 20 agar plates on the flow hood by adjusting the voltage of the fan. First with turbulent flow then laminar.
@@HotKooks well I get that but my question was more so geared towards the gap in the top of the filter. If that's by design for air flow reasons or just because the filter is too small. You get what I'm saying?
Nice point.. in build.. oh you need cad a 3d printer and other stuff. Crap..ive run alphacam microvellum and all sorts of equipment. Man you just blew any budget the average myco grower. Plus you haven't acheived laminar. Jeez you had me at first glance, but I'm a woodworker as well. You gotta be careful when telling people on diy. You're way way over budget than a store bought one. Might work for plant tissue but myc. Uggg
