Build A Wooden Fence Gate using pressure treated lumber and stainless steel hinges. This fence gate opens into the yard with the hinges directly on the gate framing and gate post. Hardware: (Amazon Affiliate Links) Hinges - amzn.to/2Jvqh9p Latch - amzn.to/2U1k1u6 Picket Nails - amzn.to/2FkKhWR Exterior Framing Screws - amzn.to/2JsP262 My other RU-vid Channels: "UWPICVID" channel, for camera enthusiast and Scuba Divers ru-vid.com/show-UCgJTnjTZ2P8Ydq5dNi21Jewfeatured "Raising Poppy" channel, showing adventures with my children ru-vid.com/show-UCb_n8O3rgzaih5fg8AkhrtQ Check out my Reef book: amzn.to/2fQ357H My Children's book: amzn.to/2xfDnw3
I replaced my fence gate after watching this video. Thank you so much! Mine did drop a little when I removed the scrap boards behind but I believe it is because my 4x4's are not as stable as they could be (I didn't replace the existing ones). I'm very proud of myself being a 61 year old widow, I think I did a good job. Thanks again for your video!
The cross brace is the most important. This guy mounted it correctly. There are videos from handymen that install it backwards with the top of the brace on the hinge side. If it's a 4' or less gate, there shouldn't be a problem, but if it's wider it will sag if not installed correctly. This guy did his homework.
@@MrKistel Hi,I’m 60,a DIY guy who has built and been involved with so many projects…. I own rental properties. When I was young,I had to ask tradesmen for tips and information,as there was no Utube. Anyway, your video was so helpful to me. Thankyou and good luck with your business and Utube channel. Al
Of all the wood fence gate demonstration, this is the one that made sense to me .. no elaborate measurements, simple down to earth "how to do it right" .. I like it ..
@@MrKistel hey man, thanks for the great vid. Would like to ask: why do you pre drill inside the hinges? Can I use just a regular drilling screw? Thanks from ISRAEL
@@MrKistel thanks again man. My gate is half the height of yours, and one meter wide. How much concrete do I need to put? How big should the hole be? How deep do i put in the plank? Thanks a million 😀
Easiest way I’ve found to build a gate by yourself is install another section of fence where you want the gate, then build and assemble the gate frame to the section using the existing rails at the top and bottom, install the hinges and then cut the rails which allows the section, which is now a gate, to swing open. Works great every time.
Should have string lined picket from wall of house up to the very end of fence.This way the pickets will be perfectly aligned.I also recommend using a string line level.Home Depot sells a non- sag cable which you can tighten up as needed.I always put 1 picket at beginiing and 1 at end of gate.Then work my way towards the hinge.I rather have 1-2 snug pieces at the end and not in the middle.Sorry for the constructive criticism.We all have our ways of doing things.However putting 2 4x4x8 together was a good idea.
Great tips. Wrapping up a 270 ft cedar fence for a client this week and have one 4 ft gate to build and install. I lost my student help so the concept of hanging the fence using scrap material is a lot easier than clamps.
I’m building a 7ft Private fence from scratch, needed more info on building a gate door. My fence is 294 feet long and I am using 16’x 8”x 2”. But when I saw the simplistic way built your gate. I’m retired Marine designing an area for my wife of nearly 30 years for her back yard.
@@MrKistel all pressure treated wood and was a smaller gate. 33 inches wide x 42 inches high. Didn't use nails though, all 2.5 inch screws and wood glue.
Joe...... can't believe you came across my feed. I have a DIY channel too. Great seeing you and hope to view the vids and learn some tips. Tell TLK, I said "hi".
@@MrKistel I used the same method just yesterday to set up my gate (screwing it into a stabilizing bar that was attached to the frame). It was the finishing touch to an entire new fence project - thanks!
Hi there, how do you ensure that the screws used to fit the hinges don't hit the screws that you put in then fixing the sides to the horizontal timers...thanks
Looks like you installed the Hardware on the side someone could remove the bolts for the gate. I thought...and looking at other videos... the hardware should be on the inside to prevent people from just unscrewing the bolts and having drinks in your backyard?
Did you screw the two 4x4 posts together? Can I use a single 4x6 instead of two posts together? Do you have a video with a gate that open to outside but the hinges are not outside? Thanks in advance.
The 4x4s in shown in this video were bolted together with three half inch bolts. I think the two post together make for a stronger gate attachment. I will likely do another gate video this Spring or Summer if you are able to stay tuned for that. Thanks.
This is a really good video - thank you for posting something very useful, and very clearly presented. I would like to know about proper selection of wood, and the best way to coat and protect the finished project. My side gate blew down a few hours ago because: a) crazy heavy winds today, b) the idiots who built the place used the cheapest wood possible and installed it the weakest way they could, and c) I didn't replace the gate sooner. I am going to do more than what your video is about (I'm putting in new posts in concrete to build a new frame), but this was really good information that I will use this weekend. Just a bit more information about material selection and coatings would really be awesome. [Following you now]
Thanks for watching and the supportive comment. The fence gate shown in this video was constructed using pressure treated lumber (both the framing and the pickets). These materials are easily found at home centers. The treated boards could be coated with a quality stain if desired after the wood has dried for a period of time. Cedar would be a higher quality fence gate build material if you can source it. It would have natural rot resistance and likely be lighter. Let me know what you end up building your gate with.
Thank you for this video. What did you use to screw into the double posts, which hold the hinge side of the gate? I just cemented in double posts for my gate.
If asking how I connected the two post to each other... I tacked the fence post together using 3" deck screws, toe-nailing the screws in the corners. I then drilled a few half inch holes through both post using an arguer bit and inserted half inch galvanized bolts into the holes. Of course I used washers on each side of the bolt and tightened the nut down securing the post to each other.
So if you mounted the 2x4 gate on the inside of the 4x4 post, does that mean your gate is inset from the rest of the fence from the outside? I'm trying to make an inswing gate that is flush with the front of the fence
To build the fence gate where it is flush with the outside it would probably be easiest to hinge it so it swings outwards. You potentially could mount the hinges to the gate door and then to a vertical 2x lumber piece before it is mounted to the fence framing. This way the hinges swing on the 2x, then you could mount the 2x (with the door attached) to the post on the inside of the gate opening. Hope that makes sense. Let me know how you end up building it.
This answers my question built the same gate and want it to swing outward and want my pickets flush with others. So I’ll have to square up to the outer of the 2 post. I’ll place my hinges on the inside of gate swinging out. If this all goes well I’ll be moving on to the deck video. Ty
Looks great but I always pre load the hinges before i drill and screw them to the gate. I lift them up as i drill and screw them. Then it will NOT sag.
@@MrKistel no problem buddy. Love the gate. The other thing I do is use 5/4 deck planks in an X pattern for double gates that the fence uses a center board. But I dont cut thru the center board. So when u look at both gates it makes an X pattern. Here they want your gates to swing out if u have a pool so hinges are on the outside and the 3 beams support the hinges. The planks are strong and light too.
In this case the gate door is recessed in from the front side of the fence. One way to change this is to change the swing of the fence gate to open outwards (towards the front of the fence).
Howdy! How would you make that fence more private while allowing air to pass through it? I'm researching building a fence but it's really windy in my part of Texas. I like the design of yours a lot! Thank you!
I think leaving the gaps like in my design is an ideal way to reduce wind forces on the fence structure. The common method when privacy is concerned is to build a fence with pickets on both sides of the framing. So in my design shown I have pickets on one side of the 2x4 framing with spacing in-between. For privacy pickets could be added on the other side of the framing as well blocking the open space of the pickets. This creates a visual solid wall but allows air through because of the framing members thickness. If you look at a prebuilt section of wooden fence at a home improvement store you will get a better idea of this concept. I hope this helps and best of luck
Another method that I use, especially when you don't have access to the other side of the fence, (or just to have something a little different) is to have the 4 inch gap between the fence planks, but then have the overlap on the 'inside' of the fence.You can have either a 1/2", 3/4", or 1" fur strip between the overlap planks. Then simply put the screws through the overlap plank and then the fur strips. This will hold the overlap planks out from the fence in whichever space you decide looks better. I use one of my planks to cut the fur strips so that is is easy. I'm actually building a gate like this. I'll post a pic when it is done.
Also, you can simply leave a 1/2 inch gap between the planks, and the wind should go through without putting a lot of pressure on the fence. Metal posts also help out a lot.
Good catch! There is no practical reason for the fence gate cross brace to be installed in the fashion you described. If i remember right it was a slight mistake on my part (likely a oops cut or something). I think my intent was to center at each corner like the bottom corner. In any case the brace still serves it function. Thanks for the comment.
I watched a few videos, getting around for a spring project. I have 2 5 foot gates that come together to close in a 10 foot driveway. Question on your lap joints. Your video is the only one I have seen where the lap joints are made like that. Do you notch the sides out to create the lap joints rather than take off half the thickness of each piece because it makes for a stronger joint??? Thanks -nice video!
Thanks for watching and commenting on the fence gate build video. There, of course, are many fence gate joint options. Regardless of joint, I would recommend doing the one that you feel most comfortable making. Seems that the most important aspect is making sure the joint fits tightly and is secured well. If it is easier for you to cut one accurately then the other I would go that route. The joint I demonstrate in the video is an option but not necessarily the best option for everyone and every situation.
Joining the corners of the gate frame like this can cause problems with the hinge screws hitting the seams of the joints which will pull out in no time
This the first thing i thought. So if not using a notched joint what then? 45 degree angles? Could the notches be put on the side beams? Liked the video btw
Thank you! So easy to follow for a novice like me. One question - The crossboards on my fence panels are 1.5x2.5. Would the gate work with these size boards or do you still recommend 2x4? I will have two double doors, each being much narrower than your single gate.
Use a 6x6x8 for gate posts! Don’t build your gate on the ground build it inframe. Run the 2x4s across the gate , frame it up. I leave a gap of 1/2 inch on the hinge side and 3/4 on the latch side
I just hung a chicken coop door the other day, and using brace boards while placing the hinges just seemed the most intuitive way. Is it really all that unconventional?
If you look at the end of the video after you hung the gate and took the temporary bracing off the pickets are not even the same height.. nice gate but pickets looked terrible
Gate will not sag when newly installed ask yourself that question three months from installation, all wooden gates will sag regardless of how perfect they get built due to warping and weather elements However I did like the idea of using two 4 x 4 post
The one thing I have learned after building many gates over the years is to make sure you leave the screws for the cross brace accessible because the gate WILL sag at some point in time and you WILL have to adjust that cross brace. Another reason to just do one long 45 on the cross brace because with the 2 45's you can't adjust it later unless you take that brace out and cut it - then one of those 45's will be screwy when you slide it over to adjust it - if that makes sense. Just saying. With one 45, you'll just have a small gap on the bottom where you kick it over a bit to adjust the sage - not really a big deal. Also, it is very important to take care in pre-drilling the toenailed screws that hold the cross brace because you will have to unscrew it to adjust it at some point down the road, and if that hole is jacked up, you're sort of screwed. I like using a 3" screw so it gets into the other 2x4 a bit deeper. Holds better that a 2 1/2" screw and you'll really only need one 3" screw instead of 2 2 inch screws, which equates to one less hole, if you know what I mean. Not criticizing at all (I'm actually not even sure how long your screws were, just throwing that out there), just sharing a few tips that I've learned from plenty of screw-ups on my part over the years. Lol. I figured out the temp boards to hold the gate up a long time ago. So much easier than struggling and trying to hold the damn thing up by yourself (and yes, we are ALWAYS by ourselves when we're trying to do these things) while you're mounting. Good video, thanks bud!!!
it was a choice in this project. The priority was keeping the space between the gate door and the ground consistent. The pickets were to short to match both the fence height and low floor opening space. If longer pickets were available they could have been cut to custom length to match both the bottom open space and overall fence height.
@@MrKistel i was sure there were reasons but my eyes kept going there. Otherwise great job. Gave me some ideas as i need to replace a small access gate.
Everything looked great, but the pickets should be put on last after you release that brace you made. If you notice because you put the tickets on before releasing the brace, when you released the brace the pickets ended up not lining up as you can see towards the end of the video there was like a 1 inch gap between the fifth and sixth picket. Other than that, seems about right.
The pickets on the fence gate stayed level as they were installed when the temporary brace boards were released. The picket height on the fence gate is personal preference and in this case was based more some on ground clearance then having an absolute match with the pickets on the fixed portion of the fence, I say in the video around the 6:45 mark that the picket height was "arbitrarily."