For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Simple, clear and complete instructions for installing a roof on a lean to shed. This is excellent! I look forward to confidently attempting this myself and screwing it up royally.
Have absolutely have no idea how to shingle but I will give it a try after looking at your video I feel confident it will go good and I'll probably play it back a few times as I'm doing it. Thanks great video.
Awesome, thanks for this. I already know how I plan to build a shed, framing and such isn't that foreign to me. I've never roofed anything before though, and this was very clear and helpful.
This is absolutely the best instructional video I have ever come across. It presented exactly what I needed to roof the 10'x12' lean-to style shed I built. Thank you so much for creating and sharing it.
This was so detailed, thank you! I have installed the shingles on my little free library that I’m building and couldn’t figure out a good way to finish the top of it.
Thanks! These videos helped me knock out my first lean too shed and it looks great and is very functional. Mower and all my lawn equipment and some other stuff out of the garage!
@iCreatables just want to thank you for the series of videos. They’ve been extremely helpful to a first time to shed builder. I’m almost done, but I would like to know what can I use to cover the flashing at the end of the roof? I would sure hate for my shed to be pulverized by a lightning strike.
A tip for weekend builders who have never roofed and likely spend too much time behind a desk all week (like me). Remember to peel off the cellophane 'tape' off the tar strip before laying the shingle down. Yes I screwed this up on the very first shed roof I did years ago because it was hot out it was not immediately apparent that there was even tape there. At the time I didn't know enough to think that the tar was there to glue things together. Yeah I know dumb but live and learn. Thanks for the great video!
Hey you didn't screw up the roof. Thats a common misconception beginner roofers have, that plastic thing in the back is for shingles not to get stuck together during the shipping phase. So when you unwrap the package, it doesn't stick. Which is why you'll see the next time you open another bundle, that the tar line is directly under that plastic cellophane tape your talking about. Oh and be sure to always nail your nails directly on the "thick" part of the nailing line on laminate shingles.
Thankyou very much for making these videos, gives me confidence to try building my own shed, professional step by step filmed perfectly to see exactly what to do, awesome!!!
Thank you for this video!! It is EXACTLY what I needed. I love how you put it together with the F FWD video and terrific voice over. It's like you were reading my mind and explaining all the confusing bits!!
Both very valid points I considered building my shed. Putting the door on the “high wall” seemed wasted space or volume rather in terms of height and storage because my doorway is 6ft wide. On the other hand putting my doorway in the “short wall” I don’t think it would look well and constant runoff over my doorway area is not ideal. The solution is a loft above the doorway.
Excellent video! I want to build a small lean-to on the side of my house and I wasn't sure how to get the roof water tight, and this video answered all the questions I had
It took me about 4.5 hours to do all this - as I hate heights any height and this was my first time. Use the plastic felt nails as shown they are only about $6 per 300 or so. I didn't measure the 12" up along the edges for shingle adjustment, but eyeballed it and it was near perfect at the top. I also used 1/2 plywood - you will need 2 pcs of it or osb. I used owens corning Driftwood Dimensional/architectural shingles I bought at L's. It has a different adhesive system (tar strip) but it works fine. I made starter strips from them. The offset is 6.25 inches for the dimensional stuff I used. I purchased rolled 8" aluminum flashing $6 for the ridge but because it is dimensional shingles it is a little awkward. The hardest part of this whole job is trimming the shingles on the rake. Near disaster for me as it is very tough to do and you can ruin your work quick. I actually used a cordless dewalt trim saw to trim a little and it worked ok but you need to wear goggles, long sleeves and be above the saw when cutting because it is throwing debris everywhere and it stings when it hits.
When working with flashing I would roll out about 8.5 feet on a work bench on the edge to use it as a brake. Fasten the ends on the top of the bench and the bend the flashing over the side. It will be 90 degrees but you can adjust on the ridge.
When you say 2 pieces you mean 2 layers of 1/2 inch? I currently have 1/2 osb on my roof (1 layer). I am ready to install the shingles bit I am a little confused. Are the nails going to go through and will see them in the inside? It is my first time building a roof and I don’t want to mess it up.
Great video - for those of us who are just a bit more ignorant - perhaps telling us what kind of felt, caulk, and other roofing supplies are suggested?
Really nice video. Well done. Great presentation. I like your laid back style, and the info is GREAT!! Thank you so much for posting this for all of us DIYers. :)
Every other video says to put the drip edge on top of the sheething.. which is what i would think because the paper would make a barrier first which seals nails. Im gonna do that and just use some mastic along the drip edge .. figure thatd be the best seal..
NOTE: The materials list indicates roof drip edge of 1"x1" and the videos states 1 1/2"x 1 1/2". The later is more standard and should work better and be easier to find. Also, the "roofing paper nails with plastic caps" are not on the materials list.
Is the mastic for top ridge silicone or tar based? It sounds like silicone won’t stick very well but that may not matter since it is nailed down. Apparently tar sticks well but can soften the shingle if too much applied. On balance I’m inclined to use silicone. Thanks
He used mastic underneath the leading and rear edges and nailed it down that should seal it and the grade is slanting down away from the top edge that should shed the water
at 1:50 are you nailing both the paper to the sheeting AND the drip edge or directly above the drip edge? I can't tell but it looks like it's being nailed down pretty close to the back edge of the drip edge?
Is the nail sticking under the ceiling, I am trying to do this on my patio roof and I don’t what to do to avoid the nail being shown under the ceiling? Any suggestion?
I have a package of other shingles (architect)- their black strips on the back are not in the center ..they are on the both opposite ends on the back. Can I use those still for the starter shingles if I cut down the middle (so I don't run out of my new shed shingles - 3 packages)? thank you.: My lean to shed roof is 8 ft. x 12 ft. and I bought 3 packages of new regular shingles .
I've heard different opinions on whether or not to put the nails just below the tar strip or right into it. I've been told to put it into the tar strip as the tar helps hold the nails in place and stop them from popping out over time. What would be the disadvantages of driving them into the tar strip?
It's also good to mention that 3 tab shingles have notches cut in them on both sides, 6 inches in from the edge, so that you can pull up the notch and butt the shingle up to that notch, rather than having to measure to get the pattern aligned properly. Also, running starter shingles up the rakes is a good idea for extra protection against wind lifting shingles from the sides, and it helps to give a straight clean line seen from the ground.
pguiver I am not sure as to why but the instructions on the package say to put them just above the tar strip. Every nail goes through several layers of shingles which are made of tar and help hold the nails in.
6 x 5 straight bond... we do 5 x 5 staggered bond due to the amount of rain we get... straight bond here wont last ..staggered bond breaks the water down ..
just to warn folks...when ever you rest a new package of shingles on its width side...DO NOT do that..I learned the hard way...I rested a pack on its side...to open up my back gate..and the damn things crumpled on its self...causing a breakage on the shingles itself....
What he means is that from row 1 if you moved each subsequent row over by 6 inches after 6 rows you would have moved over 36". That's the length of one full sheet of shingles so for row 7 you can start exactly on the edge again without moving it over 6 inches. Hope that helps.
I was actually wondering if youd be interested in making a video that shows how you wld go about squaring a lean too roof? im starting from the roof by installing the ledger board, and using 4x4s on the other end. any info or tips knowledge wld be extremely appreciated thanks
Question: I am confused at 0:25 where you say you are using 1.5 x 1.5 metal drip edge then extend the drip edge up the rake of the roof 2 inches. How is this possible? Thank you. I am a newbie to DIY!
The size of the drip edge is not in relation to how far up you take it around a corner. The point is to have the overlaps between pieces to be 2" or more.
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do you need fascia board on the sloped part too and can you run the drip edge all the way up instead of 2"? so basically it would go on eave and both sides of roof
The siding can be run to the roof and have the drip edge installed without the fascia/trim. Make sure that your siding is cut with close tolerances so that the metal drip edge covers it.
We've just about finished one of you 6x16 lean-to sheds! Great instructions!! One question, what is an underlayment appropriate for low slope 2:12 roofing with shingles?
I have an addition on my house. The high end of the addition's roof buts against the wall of the house, under the overhang of the house's main roof. The soffit on the overhang is all rotted away. I am going to reshingle the addition and replace the plywood soffit. I am wondering if it is necessary to vent a sloped roof like this. My addition has no venting and I am thinking that is what made the sofft rot away as it should have never rotted away being under the overhang. Any thoughts?
When a roof is vented it makes the roofing last longer. Rotting typically comes from wet dry cycles. But venting will keep the interior from collecting moisture so it should help.
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This is partially correct, he forgot to install the starter strips along the left and right side of the roof. Other than that everything is done correct.
Brian Cookson , my understanding that I have seen elsewhere is that it helps "glue" down those outer edges just like what it does for the lower drip edge
Brian Cookson, you technically have to put it but not many people don’t for the fact that they don’t want to buy extra starter strips. To answer your question it doesn’t bulge up, you would think it would but it doesn’t.
You need to use 2 pieces. One piece should overlap the other by 6" where they are joined, and even though the joint will be covered by roofing felt/underlayment and shingles, it doesn't hurt to apply a little roofing mastic/caulk between the 2 overlapped drip edge pieces at the joint.
Lean to refers to the type of roof - not to say that it has to lean on anything. This style has on angled portion of a roof as opposed to a gable roof, for example, that has two parts of a roof coming to a single peak. Does that make sense?
